Vacation Northern Michigan, Winter 2025

Vacation! Winter Magic

WARM UP TO WINTER IN PURE LUDINGTON

Winter is the perfect time to whisk yourself away to the enchanting beauty of Pure Ludington. Whether you're an avid winter adventurer seeking the thrill of snow-covered trails or simply yearning for a rejuvenating escape filled with delectable food and craft beer, you'll find your perfect haven here.

Don't miss the exhilarating New Year's Eve Ball Drop in downtown Ludington or the delightful Pure Ludington Brrrewfest! Make your plans today to embrace the endless wonders of a Pure Ludington winter!

Vacation!

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7 | PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS

Shop sweet small towns, ski some of the North’s best slopes and head across the Mackinac Bridge.

13 | TRAVERSE CITY

Relax in a sauna, ski at night, visit a snow-capped lighthouse and end the day with friends at cozy downtown eateries.

26 | CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Try dogsledding or a moonlit snowshoe and know that warm, decadent crêpes are never too far away.

30 | BENZIE, MANISTEE & CADILLAC

Explore snowy bike trails, experience the thrill of ice fishing, paddle a serene river and warm up at local taverns and breweries.

Vacation! Northern Michigan, (ISSN10713719) is published annually or bi-annually by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse Northern Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $39.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. All rights reserved. Copyright 2025, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

39 | LEELANAU

Sled the dunes, snowshoe to a winery, take a spin on outdoor ice rinks and hang with locals at trivia nights and euchre tourneys.

45 | GAYLORD & GRAYLING

Go skiing in Northern Michigan’s snowbelt, snowmobile an endless trail network, snowshoe a wild forest and take the kiddos on a sleigh ride.

RUGGED SLOPES, FAMILIAR WELCOME:

SKIING SAULT STE. MARIE, ONTARIO

Serious skiers, adventure-seekers and nostalgia-lovers keep tradition alive just north of the border.

BY MEAGAN FRANCIS

American skiers looking for pristine grooming and a gentle glide have plenty of options in their own backyard, many of which also crow about their splashy new amenities. But serious skiers craving a more demanding downhill challenge or a world-class Nordic experience know to head north—to Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario.

The Soo’s ski culture isn’t flashy—nor is it trying to be. What it offers instead is something more enduring: rugged downhill runs, expansive cross-country trails and a community that has always welcomed Americans as part of the fabric of its winter season. Skiing here feels less like chasing the latest trend and more like slipping into a tradition that has stood the test of time.

Your adventure begins on the trip. The drive north through the Upper Peninsula already feels like an entry into wilder country; continuing across the bridge into Ontario adds another layer of ruggedness and discovery. That extra sense of remoteness is part of what makes the journey so rewarding. Michiganders who’ve never traveled to the U.P., let alone Canada, are often surprised at how close—and how different—the experience can be. What feels like the “end of the world” at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, is in fact the gateway to something entirely new: terrain that is more challenging, landscapes that are more rugged and trails that stretch endlessly into the northern woods.

Crossing the International Bridge dividing Michigan

and Ontario is one of the shorter and more straightforward parts of the trip. For residents of the two Saults, the bridge is part of daily life, connecting families, workplaces and sports teams. The communities on either side of the border

are deeply intertwined, and visitors quickly discover how natural the crossing feels. For Americans, especially those from the Upper Peninsula and northern Michigan, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, has long been an extension of their own backyard.

Once across the bridge, it’s an easy 45-minute drive to Searchmont Resort, where veteran American downhill skiers have flocked for decades to find a challenge they can’t easily access on home turf. The slopes at Searchmont are higher, steeper and more rugged than many Michigan hills—a welcome test for skiers seeking an experience that’s higher on passion than polish. With fewer crowds, lower lift prices and short lift lines, it offers a distinct alternative

to U.S. resorts. And its reliable snow season—four lifts operated consistently last winter—adds another layer of dependability that many skiers have come to count on.

There’s something refreshingly old-school about Searchmont. Families return each winter, carving out their own traditions much as their parents and grandparents did. The atmosphere feels familiar, the faces recognizable, and the focus is squarely on the skiing itself. For those who grew up with memories of rustic ski weekends, it can feel like a return to the essence of winter sport: no frills, just snow, slopes and camaraderie.

Nordic skiers, too, have long marked their calendars for the Soo. The area boasts roughly 100 miles of groomed

trails that wind through forests, valleys and open stretches. American-owned Stokely Creek Lodge, just 25 minutes from Searchmont and 45 from the bridge, is a storied Nordic skiing destination in its own right, known for its varied terrain and timeless charm. It welcomes a host of international visitors season after season, many of whom have been visiting for years. With classic cabins, hearty meals and trails that stand shoulder-to-shoulder with any ski destination in North America, it’s a worthy destination for a multi-day trip.

Just minutes from downtown, Hiawatha Highlands offers another facet of the Soo’s ski tradition. Its 30 miles of groomed Nordic trails thread through quiet pine forests and rolling terrain, creating an accessible yet invigorating experience for skiers of all levels. Families, beginners and seasoned athletes alike flock for dependable snow, easy access and the friendly, small-town atmosphere that makes Hiawatha feel like a community hub as much as a ski destination.

And when the day is done, the après-ski scene in Sault Ste. Marie carries the same blend of tradition and

no-nonsense hospitality. Northern Superior Brewing Company adds a modern twist to classic dining, with house-brewed beer and a rotating lineup of dishes ordered in from local eateries, while Embers on the Ridge offers elevated yet relaxed dining to satiate your apresski hunger. Or, keep it simple with a wood-fired pie at Gino’s Fired Up Pizza, hearty pub fare at Burger Don, or the more than 100 wing options at Wacky Wings, for the kind of casual comfort food and cold pints that have fueled countless post-ski stories.

While other resorts announce shiny new spas or expanded terrain each season, this Ontario destination thrives on continuity. Steep downhill skiing, world-class cross-country trails, a consistently snowy season and a welcoming atmosphere lie just over a short bridge with a long history of bringing communities together. And best of all, it remains just as it has always been: a dependable place to find adventure, savor tradition and enjoy the timeless joy of a cold winter’s day.

Saulttourism.com is the place to start planning your trip now.

YOUR FALL GATEWAY TO THE UPPER PENINSULA

From big birds to fantastic foliage, autumn belongs to St. Ignace.

BY MEAGAN FRANCIS

Crossing the Mackinac Bridge north is magical any time of year, but autumn in St. Ignace creates its own alchemy. Between the region’s signature crisp mornings, trees bathed in hues from honey to rich russet, and the calls of migrating birds overhead, visitors get the sense that they’ve entered an enchanted world on the brink of metamorphosis. For travelers who want to experience the best of the season, St. Ignace is more than just a waypoint: it’s the perfect base for fall fun in the Upper Peninsula. Here are six of the best reasons to visit now:

BRILLIANT FOLIAGE AT EVERY TURN

Few places in Michigan showcase fall color as dramatically as the U.P., and St. Ignace offers a front-row seat. The drives leading north along U.S. 2 unfurl with views of towering hardwoods and stretches of Lake Michigan shoreline. Just outside town, Castle Rock provides a panoramic perch, where visitors can climb 170 steps to take in a sweeping vista of fiery maples and the Straits of Mackinac. The combination of evergreens and deciduous trees means the landscape glows with every shade—deep reds, golden yellows, and the last lush greens—well into October. For those who want to explore at a slower pace, local trails like the Huron Boardwalk and Straits State Park offer short, satisfying walks where the leaves practically brush your shoulders.

BIRDWATCHING ON A GRAND SCALE

Fall is also peak season for one of nature’s great spectacles: Raptor migration. St. Ignace sits within reach of the Mackinac Straits Raptor Watch, a key location where

thousands of hawks, eagles, falcons and even owls funnel across the Straits on their journey south. Birdwatchers gather with binoculars in hand, but you don’t need to be an expert to feel the thrill of spotting a bald eagle gliding on the crisp autumn winds. Along the shorelines, waterfowl and songbirds are also on the move, making the region a birder’s paradise. The combination of clear skies, shifting winds, and abundant lookout points makes fall in St. Ignace especially rewarding for those who love feathered travelers.

AUTUMN DAYS ON MACKINAC ISLAND

Just a short ferry ride from St. Ignace, Mackinac Island–voted the USA Today Readers Choice #1 Best Place To Visit for Fall in 2025—transforms in autumn. The bustling crowds of summer give way to a gentler pace, where the clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages and the crunch of leaves under bicycle tires feel like something out of another era. The island’s wooded interior glows with color, and trails like those leading to Arch Rock or Fort Holmes offer both history and stunning natural beauty. With cooler air, exploring by bike or foot is more comfortable, and cozy cafés welcome visitors with hot cider or fresh fudge.

maples and then rise to views of Lake Michigan’s sparkling blue. The cool air and lack of summer bugs make fall the perfect time for longer treks, whether you’re after solitude in the woods or sweeping water views.

KAYAKING AND COASTAL ADVENTURES

Experiencing the Straits of Mackinac on the water is a bucket-list experience you won’t forget, and fall brings calmer crowds and a quieter atmosphere for kayaking.

HIKING THE SHORELINES AND FORESTS

For those who want to stretch their legs, St. Ignace and its surroundings are laced with hiking trails that shine in the fall. Straits State Park offers trails that wind through colorful hardwood forests and lead to bluff-top views of the Mackinac Bridge framed by fall foliage. Head a bit farther afield, and you’ll find the Cut River Bridge Scenic Trail, where paths dip down into a gorge surrounded by flaming

Paddling along the coast near St. Ignace, you’ll see rock formations, hidden coves, and the distant outline of Mackinac Island against a backdrop of fall color. For adventurous paddlers, local outfitters can guide trips that explore further along the Lake Huron and Lake Michigan shorelines, where migrating waterfowl often share the waterways.

A TOWN ALIVE WITH SEASONAL CHARM

Beyond the outdoor adventures, St. Ignace itself carries a festive autumn energy. Local shops offer handmade goods and cozy sweaters, while restaurants serve up hearty whitefish dinners perfect after a brisk day outdoors. Seasonal events often celebrate local culture and harvest traditions, from craft fairs to community bonfires along the waterfront. The slower pace of the town in fall means you can linger longer in cafés, chat with locals and savor sunsets over the Straits without distraction.

Whether birdwatching, biking, hiking, kayaking or simply soaking up the view with a cup of cider in hand, St. Ignace is the gateway to fall fun in the U.P..

the up north

insider’s list

Start your morning right by snagging an apple strudel and piping-hot coffee from Petoskey Coffee Co. Think ahead and order a chocolate donut for an indulgent treat later in the day.

Grab a toboggan and take a ride down the sledding hill at Pond Hill Farm in Harbor Springs. Scan the farm-to-table menu, order a cider and do yourself a favor—say yes to the pepper jelly and cream cheese dip.

Skiers aren’t the only ones who love Boyne Mountain Resort. Dine at the Eagle’s Nest, take a zip-line ride, book a massage at the spa or saddle up for a one-hour winter horseback ride through wooded trails.

Take a 7-minute air taxi with Fresh Air Aviation and land in the snowy hush of Mackinac Island. See if you can spot the increasingly rare ice bridge on the Straits of Mackinac. Pack your snowshoes, consider a cross-country trail and make it a weekend with a stay at Village Inn Suites downtown.

Visit the Headlands International Dark Sky Park to view the northern lights from now until April. Head into Mackinaw City’s downtown and make it a date night with a romantic spin on the pond, then retreat to Hotel Walloon, slip on a fuzzy robe and hit the outdoor hot tub.

Wind out of your way to the picturesque Village of Walloon Lake where the tiny town hosts ice skating in the park and a winterfest each February. Barrel Back restaurant offers a wallof-windows dining setting overlooking the frozen lake, with a central fireplace to keep you cozy.

From cozy cafés to thrilling sled rides, embrace the magic of a Northern winter.

by Nicole Lane

Our Small Towns in Winter

Luxe-lodging and crave-worthy cuisine keep our small towns must-visit destinations.

by Nicole Lane

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

BAY HARBOR

Grab breakfast at Maple + Batter for hashbrowns done right. NOMAD. is the go-to for upscale dining: Start with a lychee martini, order the sticky ribs and end with the sweet potato gelato. Pop next door to Sip for a nightcap. Book your stay at the majestic Inn at Bay Harbor for views of Lake Michigan.

BOYNE COUNTRY

Boyne City, Walloon Lake Village and the shoreline of Lake Charlevoix and Walloon Lake make up this beautiful spot to explore. Spend the morning on the slopes at Boyne Mountain, order an afternoon pick-me-up sandwich at Lake Street Market, then drop by one of the many craft beer pubs. Bundle up and wander Boyne City’s Main Street, sit under the pink glow of neon at Muskrat Distilling, and book a weekend stay at Chalet Edelweiss, home to a Nordic sauna and rentable igloos. Or cozy up at Hotel Walloon for a romantic escape with plusher than plush rooms.

CHEBOYGAN

Pay a visit to the Cheboygan Opera House or the Lark Theater & Lounge for entertainment and live music. Sip on craft beer at Cheboygan Brewing Co.; tuck into whitefish dip and the baked brie at The Queen’s Wine Pub; order the charcuterie board at The Beau.

CROSS VILLAGE & GOOD HART

Fall may be its glory season, but the M-119 Tunnel of Trees drive sparkles after a fresh snow or early morning frost. Stop by the Good Hart General Store for their famous chicken pot pie and visit Primitive Images for log-cabin inspo.

HARBOR SPRINGS

This picturesque town is straight from a Hallmark movie set. Walk along the path at Little Traverse Bay and soak in all the historic architecture. Meander downtown to window shop at Gattle’s for linens; A Cool Breeze for coastal-inspired women’s clothing; Barbara Boz Boutique for unusual jewelry; call ahead to make an appointment at Tvedten Fine Art or Hanni Gallery. Don’t miss the oysters at the lounge at Otis Harbor Springs. Why don’t you stay a while? Book one of their boutique hotel rooms and snooze in style.

MACKINAC ISLAND

Snowmobiles, fat bikes, cross-country skis or snowshoes are your mode of transportation on this car-free island. A few local spots welcome winter guests, meaning you’ll rub shoulders with island locals and enjoy the winter quiet.

MACKINAW CITY

Right before traversing The Mighty Mac, you’ll pass through Mackinaw City, where, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot the winter phenomenon of blue ice. Warm up with chowder at Scalawags Whitefish & Chips, and don’t miss the Jamaican-style goat curry at Taste of Di Island Eatery.

ST. IGNACE

Crossing the Mackinac Bridge means Lehto’s Pasties (and the drinkable gravy) for your tasty reward. Take a self-guided historical walking tour along the Lake Huron Boardwalk to the Wawatam Lighthouse. Feel the rush on the 100 miles of groomed snowmobile trails, bring your skis for the Sand Dunes Cross-Country Ski Trail and take a deep breath in. You’ve made it to the U.P.

The Mitten’s Snowy Tip

On skis, horseback, snowshoes or iceboat—here we don't run from snow, we embrace it.

by Nicole Lane

Grab your sleds and make your way to the beloved Petoskey Winter Sports Park and reconnect with your inner child on the sledding hill, twirling at the outdoor ice rink or suiting up for the separate hockey rink with free entry. Inside, you’ll find a warming hut, concessions, a fireplace and skate rentals. Get comfortable at Roast & Toast and order one of their 140 soups on the menu or cozy up with something warm and spicy—a masaman curry at Thai Orchid or Goan lamb curry at Aachi Mumbai.

The need for speed was never gnarlier than at Nub’s Nob in Harbor Springs. Fresh powder and downhill skiing can be found at the family-owned ski area. With 53 runs and 400 feet of vertical drop, the resort has been catering to ski lovers since the 1950s. Head to Nub’s Pub after a long day and rest your ski legs.

Saddle up saddle up with a friendly horse on Boyne Mountain’s trail system. Clip-clop through the woods after a fresh snow. An experienced guide will take you on a meandering forest path for an hour-long ride.

Disappearing into the woods was never as serene as at the Goodhart Farms Nature Preserve. You’ll stay entertained with 7.5 miles of marked trails on 696 acres of property. Trails open to horseback riders, hikers, snowshoers and Nordic skiers.

Watch from the shoreline as boats slice across the ice near the Mackinac Bridge in St. Ignace. Iceboaters wait for at least four inches of ice before traveling up to 60 mph on handmade or hand-me-down heirloom boats.

Shop the Gaslight District

Art and antiques—explore the storefronts of Petoskey.

by Cara McDonald

Gallery Hop

Swing by Somebody’s Gallery to browse work from artists all over the state and add charm to your space with paintings of red barns, Great Lake waves or a snowscape. Petoskey-based artist Kevin Barton’s loft on Lake Street is open by appointment. His oil scenes of farms and local downtowns are detailed, colorful and immediately recognizable.

Pamper Your Home

Wander around August Antiques & Home Décor for one-of-a-kind antiques, wool throws and everything in between; browse Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts, open since 1946; pick up a Petoskey stone or two at NorthGoods; envision a new design while walking around Quiet Moose; grab a local wine and a few cheese wheels from Symons General Store.

Treat Yourself

Visit the shops in the area, like Aprés by Threads, for a new knit top; a new puffer from Emma; a delicate necklace from Sadie Rose; onesie for your little one from Fox & Hound. Then scoop up a Great Lakes-inspired read (like I Cheerfully Refuse by Leif Enger) from McLean & Eakin so you can curl up by the fire later.

the up north

insider’s list

From healing saunas to outdoor wonders, we’ve got your checklist for winter fun in the Grand Traverse region.

by Matthew Dursum

Escape the blistering cold downtown and duck into the beloved bars and eateries on Lake Avenue. For breakfast, order a savory smoked salmon benny from Archie’s Social House, sample craft beers and seasonal delights at Rare Bird Brewpub and enjoy live music, cocktails and small plates at The Parlor TC.

Take on the Nordic tradition of winter saunas at Mt. Holiday’s Hearth Sauna and MI Sauna at Traverse City State Park Beach. Enter a relaxing woodfired red cedar sauna before plunging into an ice bath to feel rejuvenated like a real Northerner.

Interlochen Center for the Arts is the place to enjoy The Nutcracker on December 11–14, Sounds of the Season on December 18–19 and Romeo & Juliet on February 13–15. In February, experience the familyfriendly Winterlochen festival with free admission and arts performances.

Grab your cross-country skis or hiking boots and adventure along the Boardman/Ottaway River Trail. Follow the Boardman River as you cross wooden bridges and travel under cedar trees decorated with snow. Enjoy wildlife and incredible spots for forest bathing under the peaceful winter skies.

Stop into Eugene’s Record Co-op to discover new soundtracks for your NoMI winter. Grab a cocktail and challenge your friends to classic arcade games at The Coin Slot

Winter means hunkering down with trivia in TC. Stop into MiddleCoast Brewing Company, Rare Bird Brewpub, Lil Bo, Kilkenny’s and Identity Brewing Company to challenge friends and strangers to games of wit over tasty food and drinks.

Sweet Small Towns

The Grand Traverse region’s small towns are anything but sleepy. They’re brimming with hidden gems and big personalities ready to warm you up from the cold.

by Matthew Dursum

ACME & WILLIAMSBURG

Enjoy the peaceful solitude of the Sand Lakes Quiet Area and catch sunset views over East Bay at Bayside Park and Maple Bay Natural Area. Experience the flavors of Osorio Tacos y Salsas, sit down for craft beers and non-stop fun at Stone Hound Brewing Company or take in the views and delicious dinners at Aerie Restaurant & Lounge, on the 16th floor of the Grand Traverse Resort and Spa.

FIFE LAKE

Hike, snowshoe or cross-country ski the 21-mile Fife Lake Loop. Get warm and cozy at the Fife Lake Inn and enjoy a menu of comfort food classics like poutine and smokehouse mac ‘n’ cheese. Don’t miss the annual Ice Fishing Derby and Shanty Décor Contest where you can meet the best winter anglers in the region.

INTERLOCHEN

Catch a performance at the world-renowned Interlochen Center for the Arts. During your visit, wander in nature on the Lost Lake Pathway on Lake Dubonnet. If you’re a wintertime angler, grab a spot on Duck Lake or Green Lake for a chance at reeling in a meaty pike. End the evening at Oaky's Tavern for live music and smoky BBQ.

KINGSLEY

Start your evening at the popular Kingsley Local Brewing Company to try local favorites such as the Belgian Witbier and English IPA. Then, check out live music over drinks and food at The Kingsley Inn. Savor specialty burgers at J&S Hamburg Kingsley and support Project Feed the Kids, a non-profit that provides meals on the go for people in need.

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Drive up Center Road for majestic views of East and West Bay, snow-covered vineyards and orchards. Grab a bite at the Peninsula Grill or Boathouse on your way up to Mission Point Lighthouse. Then explore the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail with 10 award-winning wineries that are giving the West Coast a run for its money. In between all the sipping, pull out your snowshoes at Pyatt Lake: The Bill Carls Nature Preserve (1.3 mile trail) or Old Mission Point Park.

TC’s Enchanted Enclaves

There’s more to Traverse City than Front Street. Explore its outlying blocks and experience mouthwatering bites, historical gems, lively bars and enough nightlife to brighten the dark of winter.

by Matthew Dursum

The Village at Grand Traverse Commons

New York has Central Park, London has Hyde Park and Traverse City has the Village at Grand Traverse Commons. The historic Victorian complex is nestled on 480 acres of rolling hills and trails with boutiques, botanical gardens and outdoor art exhibits.

Must-Do: Take a guided tour through the restored 19th-century buildings and tunnels and learn about the project’s thrilling history. Shop till you drop in the underground Mercato in Building 50—Sanctuary Goods, Moonstruck Gardens and Underground Toys are just a few beloved businesses to explore. Do breakfast right at the Red Spire Brunch House or Sugar 2 Salt and dine at two Italian fine-dining establishments—Trattoria Stella and PepeNero. Sample renowned wine at Left Foot Charley and O’Brien Vineyards, craft beer at Earthen Ales and spice up your appetite at Spanglish.

West Front Street

Landmarks such as Northpeak Brewing Company draw people in, and there’s plenty more to explore in this corner of downtown TC. Spend the day admiring industrial architecture and filling up at the ever-popular breweries and lunch spots.

Must-Do: Stroll through Hannah Park and see snow-covered Victorian homes on Sixth Street. Sample Folgarelli’s famous sandwiches like The Godfather and the West Bay and warm up over drinks at Lil Bo Bar and Restaurant. Bask in romantic ambiance and sensational seasonal dishes at Modern Bird. Or hustle into Loco Boys Brewing Company for birria tacos and plantains.

East Front Street

This neighborhood was once a sleepy residential district, but no more. Thanks to establishments like The Little Fleet and The Cooks’ House, East Front Street is where foodies go for a taste of the nightlife.

Must-Do: Order pho and other Vietnamese classics at The Good Bowl or sink your teeth into a slice of pizza at Paesano’s—an East Front Street staple since 1981. Find a new toy for your fourlegged friends at Contigo Dogs boutique and sift through racks of vintage clothing at Penny Lane. Spend a memorable evening dinner at the and end the night with a rollicking round of pinball at The Coin Slot.

Warehouse District

What used to be the industrial heart of the town in the 19th century is now one of its most prominent nightlife destinations. Skip into an abundance of boutique shops, cafés, breweries

and restaurants from Union Street to Hall Street on the northern side of the Boardman River.

Must-Do: Paint your own pottery or sign up for a date-night class at Handz On Art. Shop at the Warehouse MRKT’s boutiques like Darling Botanical and Evil Queen, then unwind with a matcha smoothie or golden-milk latte at Water Bearer Coffee. Try your luck at Timewind Escape Rooms before quenching your thirst with craft beers at The Workshop Brewing Company or cocktails at Mammoth Distilling Cocktail Lounge.

Eighth Street

Located on the south side of downtown, Eighth Street is constantly evolving. You’ll find breakfast and lunch hot spots, bars, wine shops and endless entertainment.

Must-Do: Shop for vintage furniture at EB2 Vintage and select your favorite fine wines at Lake District Wine Co. Get divine Italian lunch or takeout at Raduno, sample craft beer at Silver Spruce Brewing Company and catch a live performance at The Alluvion. Order inspiring main courses at NOBO Riverside before hitting the town on Lake Street, a back alley where nightlife mainstays Rare Bird Brewpub and The Parlor serve up American small plates alongside Michigan beers.

Ski Hills, Frozen Lakes and Endless Live Music

The Grand Traverse area doesn’t mess around when it comes to winter fun.

by Matthew Dursum

Shake off the cold to live music. Visit the Alluvion at Commongrounds for Funky Fun Mondays and the Alluvion Presents concert series. Lose yourself to the sonic vibes of local singers and songwriters at The Parlor. Don’t miss The Workshop Brewing Company for open mic nights and local talent ready to crank it up to 11. Experience the history of music at the Music House Museum, from the tiniest music box to the mightiest pipe organ, then take in a seasonal performance or silent movie with live musical accompaniment.

Relax in a mobile sauna. Check out MI Sauna at the Traverse City State Park Beach. TC local Daniel Sarya founded MI Sauna in 2020. Inspired by the customs of his Finnish ancestors, he wanted to share this important part of Finnish culture with his community to help reduce stress, improve sleep and ward off seasonal affective disorder—oh, and the after-sauna cold plunges in the bay are pretty wild, too.

Go ice fishing in the small lakes around Traverse City. Rent or buy an ice auger, scoop, rod and reel and your favorite tackle. Head out to Boardman Lake or Silver Lake, pop up a shanty and try your luck at hooking pike and panfish for a delicious mid-winter catch.

Ski under the stars at neighborhood ski spots Hickory Hills and Mt. Holiday. At Hickory Hills, take in views of the Grand Traverse Bay at the top of Swede Slope. Nordic skiers can race through the 5k wooded trail before warming up with comfort food and hot drinks at the lodge. Mt. Holiday offers tubing as well as cold beer and barfood faves at the popular T-Bar & Grill.

Catch a musical or play performance at Old Town Playhouse. Discover new and thought-provoking films at the State Theater’s Traverse City Film Fest Tuesdays. Enjoy visiting music and comedy acts, bestselling-author talks and local jazz and Broadway performance at the City Opera House.

Zoom through the vast VASA Pathway— a series of four loops (3K, 5K, 10K, and 25K) that take you through forests and diverse terrain. Experience events such as the Iceman Cometh mountain bike race in November and the 50th anniversary of the North American VASA cross-country ski race in February.

Cozy Dining Recs

Warm your body and soul with these foods and drinks.

by Matthew Dursum

FRANK’S 231

Meat and threes—a savory meat dish accompanied by three sides—are a comfort food staple in the South. Former Farm Club chef Dan Compton takes this concept to a whole new level at Frank’s 231 on S. Garfield Ave, with Northern Michigan farm-to-table ingredients and a high-end take on the housemade sausages. Always on the menu: fluffy made-to-order naan, comfort food desserts like cherry clafoutis.

JOLLY PUMPKIN

Jolly Pumpkin restaurant and brewery is a wintertime standard on Old Mission Peninsula. Sit by the stone fireplace, order a hearty beer like the Noel de Calabaza Belgian Strong Dark Ale and their stellar menu. Chatting around a crackling fire while sipping on craft beer here is the definition of Northern Michigan hygge.

POPPYCOCKS

Grab a seat in one of the bay window nooks for the perfect wintertime date night. Take in the glow of downtown’s lights and twinkling cityscape while enjoying a campfire espresso martini or seasonal sangria. Tuck in to favorites such as the caprese chicken confit, roasted in duck fat and basil pesto,

or salmon with fried cauliflower, whipped feta and harissa. Finish the night with a slice of something decadent from the dessert case (the flourless chocolate cake is perfect for sharing).

TAPROOT CIDER HOUSE

Pop into Taproot Cider House on Front Street for a sensational menu of artisanal ciders and farm-to-table cuisine. Start your experience with tasty bites like the kung pao cauliflower before diving into main courses like the Taproot grilled cheese, with its local bacon and slices of Gala apples smothered in layers of gourmet cheeses. Between courses enjoy ciders like the Madagascar Vanilla Bean Bourbon Barrel Aged Cider and the semisweet cherry ginger.

FORREST, A FOOD STUDIO

As soon as you enter this tiny Old Towne storefront, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a warm familial home—cared for by a family of talented chefs, wine experts and interior designers. Savor the locally sourced dishes inspired by global flavors and fresh in-season ingredients. The weekends-only menu changes monthly and reservations fill up fast, so book a table at least a month in advance.

ARTISAN TRAVERSE CITY

If you’re looking for a romantic place to escape the cold, Artisan is just the destination for you. Lounge on a sofa with an outstanding craft cocktail and appetizers while soaking in the warmth of the Swedish fireplace. Then, feel the heat from the dining room hearth and explore the revolving menu of heart-warming classics like Great Lakes chowder and poached halibut. Locals get sweet deals every Thursday for Locals Night.

BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT

With 300 feet of bay frontage and an outstanding wine list and seasonal menu, it’s hard to beat the Boathouse Restaurant on Old Mission Peninsula. Book a table well in advance to get access to the window seats that have become one of Traverse City’s best spots for taking in radiant West Bay sunsets. Order the wagyu hanger Oscar, an eight-ounce cut topped with snow crab, duck-fat potato, grilled asparagus and Béarnaise.

INDIA GARDEN

What’s more warming than cozying up to multiple courses of Indian favorites like lamb butter makhani, mutter paneer and tandoori chicken? Hearty mains with a side of steamy hot naan are deliciously filling, and don’t forget a rich chai latte before heading out into the cold.

local sips

5 places to cuddle up and take on winter with a drink in hand.

Mammoth Distilling

Locally distilled spirits, craft cocktails and chairs upholstered with soft woolly mammoth fur. It really doesn’t get more hygge than this. Stop into this popular hangout in TC’s Warehouse District to experience the local spirits game at its best.

O’Brien Vineyards

Located in a historic root cellar next to Left Foot Charley’s Barrel Room—another local favorite— is O'Brien Vineyards’ tasting room. Order a glass of sparkling rosé, pinot noir or specials such as the Tempranillo-based Tintō Finō.

Loco Boys Brewing Company

Seven Hills Community Center

Drive up Old Mission Peninsula and stop into the Seven Hills Community Center. Get comfy with a craft cocktail at Old Mission Distilling and explore art at Tinker Studio. Stay for live music and other events such as Analog Auto Night, where you can admire souped-up cars, listen to vinyl records and imbibe your favorite seasonal cocktails.

Bonobo Winery

Sneak into this elegant and inviting tasting room to take in magnificent winter views of snow-dusted vineyards and West Bay. Order a glass of Bonobo’s renowned wines and kick back next to the doublesided fireplace. You’ll probably be sharing space with snowshoers and Nordic skiers taking an afternoon wine break—Old Mission–style.

NOBO Riverside

With a fantastic menu including the wagyu top sirloin steak Diane with lion’s mane mushrooms and veal demi-glaze, an expansive wine list, warm lighting and cozy seating, this Traverse City hangout is one of the best destinations for winter. From Higher Grounds coffee and local wines to ingredients from Nanbop Farms and Idyll Farms, you’ll experience the true essence of Northern Michigan’s terroir in each dish. Plus, you’ll be steps away from the TART trail, Boardman Lake Loop, perfect for a snowy stroll.

insider’s list the up north

Mush with rescue pups. Local nurse Sarah Dobbrastine has rescued 34 huskies through her nonprofit Second Chance Mushers. These happy huskies will take you on a dogsled ride through some of the North’s most scenic terrain.

Wander downtown Elk Rapids. While the snow swirls, browse local galleries like Blue Heron, Twisted Fish and Mullaly’s 128 for art pieces that stir your soul, then dream about them over a glass of wine and a charcuterie board at Cellar 152.

Disappear with someone special for a weekend at The Earl, Charlevoix’s sleek boutique hotel. You’ll love the design-forward rooms, lake views and heart-of-it-all location. Bonus: Snag a latte for later at their complimentary coffee bar.

Take a moonlit hike at Grass River Natural Area. The guided hikes are naturalist-led and full of wintery wonder; rent snowshoes onsite if you need ’em.

Warm up with a creamy caramel mocha and a caramel-apple muffin at Ruthann’s Gourmet Bakery, Bellaire’s home of all things sweet.

The enchanting Chain of Lakes region offers plenty of snowy season adventures (and cozy nooks for warming up).

by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Sweet Small Towns

From charming Elk Rapids to Charlevoix the Beautiful, these lakeside villages are pure winter magic.

by Allison Jarrell Acosta

ALDEN

Lovely little Alden on Torch Lake is filled with boutiques, cafés, a specialty spice store, an old-fashioned general store and even a wine bar. Enjoy a stroll through downtown’s shops, then get cozy at Torch Lake Beer Co. and raise a glass to their superb collection of Northern Michigan craft brews.

BELLAIRE

The grand old Antrim County Courthouse presides over this charming burg that sits between Lake Bellaire and Intermediate Lake. Find a lively shopping district and four-season Shanty Creek Resort here. For a small town, the nightlife is hopping with Short’s Brewing Company, Fireside Lounge cocktail and wine bar, Mammoth Distilling and Bee Well Mead & Cider.

CENTRAL LAKE

This sweet town has a true Up North vibe, which was kicked up a notch when Mammoth Distilling opened its doors here several years ago. Drop by Torch Lake Café for a bite, and don’t miss a meal at the stately Blue Pelican Inn—better yet, make it an overnight and grab a room there, too.

CHARLEVOIX

After a quick photo op with the red Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse, browse the downtown galleries and boutiques, stopping at That French Place for a cup of hot chocolate and a Nutella crêpe. End your day sipping

a craft beer in front of a drop-dead gorgeous Lake Charlevoix view at Bridge Street Tap Room.

EAST JORDAN

This adventure town combines outdoor recreation (snowmobiles welcome!) with bookstores, resale shops and eateries. Check out the Jordan Art Walk along the city’s trails and parks, featuring sculptures by local artists. Then tuck into comfort food eats at Foundry Craft Grillery, an East Jordan institution with a second location in Elk Rapids; their off-season calendar is brimming with live music and trivia nights.

ELLSWORTH

Tucked on the northernmost point of the Chain of Lakes, this charmer of a village on Ellsworth Lake is a perfect basecamp for ice fishing, snowmobiling or heading to nearby St. Clair Lake-Six Mile Lake Nature Preserve for snowshoeing along the universally accessible Mary Behrens Sorrell Trail.

ELK RAPIDS

Wedged between Elk Lake and Lake Michigan, this town boasts plenty of quaint winter scenery. Browse the many boutiques and galleries downtown, go antiquing and explore one of the North’s most beautiful library settings. Twirl around the outdoor ice rink, then fill up at one of this town’s awesome eateries, like The Dam Shop, Cellar 152 and Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen.

at Schuss Mountain when staying at The Lakeview Hotel

New Fall Menu

Thursday night euchre 6:30pm

Saturday wing night and team trivia at 7pm

Wednesday - Chinese Buffet • Thursday - Chefs Choice

Friday - Fish Fry • Saturday - Surf and Turf

Sunday - Chefs Choice

Wed-Fri 5-9pm Sat 9am-9pm • Sun 9am-8pm

TheBluePelican.com

231-544-2583

Central Lake, MI

Monday - Mexican • Tuesday - Fish Fry

Saturday - Shrimp Fest Sunday - Salisbury Steak Dinner

Mon -Fri 4pm-9pm Sat & Sun 12pm-9pm

ThePelicansNest.com

231-533-9000 Located at The Chief Golf Course

Hit the (Snow) Trails

From serene fat-bike singletrack to ripping-good alpine runs, there’s a path to snowy adventure waiting here.

by Cara McDonald

Hit the slopes at Shanty Creek Resort’s Schuss Mountain, known for its top-notch alpine skiing—from easy, slow-burn cruising along the Concourse to Chicken Run, to belly-flipping runs like the 450-foot vertical Kingdom Come. Beyond the downhill rush, visitors can also enjoy a host of other wintry activities: Nordic skiing Shanty Creek’s 28 km of groomed cross-country trails, fat biking or snowshoeing 3 km of groomed multipurpose trail, and alpine tubing with the kiddos.

Find fat-bike freedom at Glacial Hills Pathway and Natural Area. This Bellaire gem is home to a trail system that encompasses more than 800 acres of forested land maintained by the Friends of Glacial Hills. Expect around 7.5 miles of trails groomed for fat biking, accessible from either the Main Vandermark trailhead or the Orchard Hill trailhead. It’s the perfect activity when snow conditions are questionable. Need to rent wheels? Head to Revolution Bike in Charlevoix for a great selection and expert bike fit with knowledgeable staff.

Grab the fam and head to Charlevoix’s Mt. McSauba—an affordable, family-friendly ski area and winter playground. Enjoy lighted downhill skiing, snowboarding/terrain park, lighted and groomed cross-country trails (plus 80 acres of ungroomed trails), a lighted sledding hill, a skating rink with warming cabin and more. Visitors can also take advantage of skiing and snowboarding lessons (register online) or participate in a beloved tradition: candlelight hikes. This will be the sixth season of these Friday night treks, where you can snowshoe, hike or even cross-country ski on candle-lit trails at your own pace.

Take a spin under the twinkle lights at Elk Rapids’ community outdoor ice rink located at the marina (118 Bridge St.). The Dam Shop, right next door, hosts the rink for the village and offers coffee and other libations when you’re ready to warm up. You can even borrow a pair of skates from the shed, along with hockey pucks and sticks.

Sled the snowiest trails. Those looking for a more engine-revving adventure can snowmobile the Jordan Valley Trail System (local outfitters include Snowblitz and Blue Sky rentals). Volunteers groom the trails north of Starvation Lake eastward to Lakes of the North.

insider’s list the up north

Thanks to its perch just a few feet from Lake Michigan’s frigid waves, Point Betsie Lighthouse often has incredible ice formations— especially pretty with the soft pink tint of sunrise.

Have a winter wonderland experience at Fantail Farms in Benzonia where you’ll jingle down tree-lined trails in an old-fashioned sleigh. Groups are welcome or snug up with your sweetie in the cherry red two-seater.

Friday’s open mic night at Five Shores Brewing brings in a crowd with impressive local talent and a fun, friendly audience. At the very least, go for the massive German-style pretzel and a pint.

Book the Crosby Room at The Lamplighter B&B in Ludington. Named for the home’s first owners, the room features the original tiled fireplace, ornate zinc came windows and a well-stocked bookcase.

Tip: On select dates, you can add a private fireside dinner or Finnish sauna to your reservation.

The Forgotten Movie Club at Manistee’s Vogue Theatre lifts its curtain on the second Monday of each month for underrated, overlooked films. Tickets are $2, a small popcorn is $2, hot chocolate is, yep, $2.

Have you ever done a beach bonfire in winter? Well, you should. Take a bundle of wood, folding chairs and a raclette grill to Esch Beach to achieve max-level cozy.

Crackling fires, dashing sleighs and glowing cheeks await in this region of laidback towns and quiet, snow-capped woods.

by Carly Simpson

Dining Recs

These sweet eateries will take the chill off.

by Carly Simpson

VITA BELLA, FRANKFORT

This Italian staple is expanding in 2026, moving half a block down Main Street to a spot with nearly double the space. For now, you can, and should, visit the original eatery where co-owner Ed Carrella keeps his mom’s cookbook next to him in the kitchen, along with his dad’s royal blue ledger of recipes from his restaurant days in Chicago. Tina and Angelo Carrella immigrated to the Windy City in the late ’60s, leaving their home in Naples, Italy. They dreamed of owning their own business and opened a Neapolitan pizzeria, adding pasta to the menu after Angelo brought home 25 pounds of ricotta and Tina spent hours and hours developing her ravioli recipe (still found in that little blue ledger). Ravioli is just one of a hearty handful of homemade pasta on Ed’s menu today at Vita Bella Italian Kitchen & Market in Frankfort, along with Mama’s Meatballs and, of course, wood-fired pizzas.

PAPA J'S, HONOR

The retro-inspired interior alone is a reason to visit. There are the essential 1950s red and white diner booths and black-and-white checkered floor. The turquoise walls, lined with neon lights, are filled with memorabilia—The Beatles’ White album, movie posters, vintage board games, Benzie County senior class photos. On the menu, the cheeseburger pizza reigns supreme. Crisp dill pickles play nicely with juicy tomatoes, red onion, ground beef, bacon bits, a cheesy mozzarellacheddar combo and tangy Thousand Island dressing. It’s sweet, savory, sour—everything you didn’t know you wanted in a slice.

WILDFLOUR, CADILLAC

Heather Goodman fills her dessert towers with flaky slices of pistachio cranberry baklava, containers of creamy apple fritter bread pudding, pillowy peanut butter tiramisu and Biscoff cinnamon rolls that disappear instantly. Her husband, Tom, cooks mini quiches fresh each morning, pot pies topped with mashed potatoes, rotating soups like steak and mushroom, and thick Italian muffaletta sandwiches. The eatery itself is inclusive, creative and communitycentered. From Heather’s hand-drawn mural to a window of rolling pins and a clever reimagining of teacups into a wall clock, the whimsical space is a delight.

876 BALDWIN, BALDWIN

The Northwoods outpost of Baldwin, approximate population 1,000, is a well-known destination among outdoorspeople thanks to the Manistee National Forest and Pere Marquette River. Perhaps a little more unexpected, though, is the bold, globally inspired menu at 876 Baldwin, a small-town restaurant that draws inspiration from North Africa, Spain, Cuba, Korea and Italy. A few dishes on our short list: Sicilian pasta with creamy pistachio sauce, steamed mussels, ropa vieja and a sensational harvest pizza topped with roasted baby beets, squash, caramelized onions and crumbly Gorgonzola. For dessert, the pillowy tiramisu is heaven; owner Dina Velocci uses her grandma’s recipe.

STIX, LUDINGTON

A Ludington hangout since 1954, the restaurant and bowling alley at STIX have been a family go-to for decades. When the building fell into disrepair, local Andrew Riemer purchased it in 2020 and rebuilt it from the ground up. An upstairs indoor patio called The Pier overlooks the beer garden (a warm-weather favorite with an Argentinian grill and a huge oak tree wrapped in lights); here you’ll find high-end whiskeys and hear live music on evenings when artists are performing in the dining area below. The attached bowling alley is outfitted with immersive tech that projects digital images and mini games on the lanes.

link.mynorth.com/BenzieEats

Sweet Small Towns

These neighborhoods greet you with hearty meals, farm-to-glass libations and snowy fun around every corner.

by Carly Simpson

ARCADIA

This teensy-tiny community is home to two bucket-list destinations. Stop first at Inspiration Point, a roadside turnout that lives up to its name with endless Lake Michigan views; its blue depths in stark contrast to the white around you. Then strap on your snowshoes at Arcadia Dunes; the Baldy Trails are a favorite.

BEAR LAKE

After hitting the trails in neighboring Arcadia, Lakeside Café has the buttermilk pancakes and hash browns you’re craving. Book a room at the fun-loving and inclusive Motel Bear Lake, a revived 1962 roadside motel.

BENZONIA

Brake on US-31 for tamales and empanadas at The Roadhouse; meet furry friends and shop soft sweaters at Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm (thru Christmas in Benzonia; Traverse City boutique is year-round); stare wide-eyed with wonder at the sprawling selection of ornaments at Victoria’s Floral Design.

BEULAH

There is a lot to love: the easygoing vibes at Five Shores Brewing, a boutique-filled shopping district, bagels baked each day at L'Chayim Delicatessen, February’s Winterfest complete with a chili cookoff and frozen fish toss (you are Up North after all), and the 22-mile Betsie Valley Trail that you can ski, bike or snowshoe.

CADILLAC

Arrive early at Wildflour Bakery for bread pudding and Biscoff cinnamon rolls. Downtown’s boutiques are noteworthy, too. The Bird House curates handmade items from local makers; shop women’s clothing at Magnolia, Serendipity and Mäksē. Winter’s crown jewel, though, is Caberfae Peaks with its crockpot-loving, down-to-earth Midwest vibes. Fun fact: The resort’s first ski lift, a rope tow, was powered by a Ford Model A car engine.

FRANKFORT

This harbor town delights in all seasons with the famously photogenic Point Betsie Lighthouse, historic Garden Theater, community-minded Stormcloud Brewing Company (check out their winter curling league) and a charming Main Street. For brunch, order bourbon-mapletoffee–topped chicken and waffles at Birch & Maple. And do visit the free, well-curated exhibits at Oliver Art Center.

HONOR

Tucked near secluded snowy beaches in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Honor is also bordered by the creek-fed Platte River. In the village, breakfast is best at Platte River Inn. Pick up BBQ from Jim’s Joint, sip a Michigan maple latte at Weldon Coffee and don’t leave without trying the cheeseburger pizza at retro-cool Papa J’s.

LAKE ANN

Set on the shore of lovely Lake Ann, find a Northwoodsy grocery store with everything you could ever need. Then head over to the rocking Lake Ann Brewing Company for weekly trivia. There’s a fab Reuben next door at The Stone Oven, and irresistible small batch treats from The Bread Lady (the cinnamon rolls!). Cross-country skiers recommend the 5.8-mile Lake Ann Pathway.

LUDINGTON

A lively downtown district is filled with browse-worthy boutiques (don’t miss The Pier, My Happy Place, Sister Bees). Linger awhile at Red Rooster Coffee, get sandwiches at Trail’s End Baking Co., bowl at STIX, take in stellar sunset views at Stearns Park, cap it off at The Mitten Bar, a favorite for live music.

MANISTEE

Manistee’s Victorian Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend is one of the North’s most magical traditions, drawing a jolly crowd of 10,000 merrymakers on the night of the parade. Vendors roast chestnuts along the sidewalk; kids clamber onto parents’ shoulders for a better view of stilt walkers and an organ grinder; the crowd quiets in awe as a team of Belgian draft horses passes, pulling a 30-foot tree upright on a sleigh. Save the date: Dec. 4–7, 2025.

ONEKAMA

This postage-stamp town perched on the shore of Portage Lake slows down in winter. You should, too. Go ice fishing on Portage Lake, then make your way over to Blue Slipper Tavern for happy hour.

THOMPSONVILLE

Crystal Mountain, the heart of this rural township, is a top destination for snow sports, including downhill skiing and fat biking. Off-campus, check out Thompsonville’s Up North-style taverns (Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill is a favorite) and the very cool, very cozy outdoor basecamp at Iron Fish Distillery.

Where Winter is Wonderland

Get up close and personal with this coastal region from Benzie County to Ludington and all the snowy forests, lakes and rivers between.

by Carly Simpson

Snowshoe the Little Mac Foot Bridge. This 245-foot wooden suspension bridge, which is especially photogenic in winter, connects the 11-mile Manistee River Trail with the 4,800-mile North Country Trail. It’s a popular spot for local hikers, located near the Hodenpyl Dam in Mesick. There’s a primitive parking area along Upper River Road that’s within 300 feet of the bridge.

Raft ethereal waters. The experienced guides at Pine River Paddlesports Center in Wellston will show you a secret side of their namesake river. It’s quiet. The water moves slowly as you pass beneath towering trees and bushy evergreens encased in snow and ice. Your guide can help with paddling and steering if you want, or they can canoe alongside you. Because rafts are extremely stable, you don’t have to worry about getting wet. Trips last about an hour and 15 minutes; reservations required. >

Cruise the slopes. Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville boasts 59 downhill runs and a 375-foot vertical drop. Pro tip: Ride the resort’s high-speed quad to reach a view of the village below that stops skiers in their tracks, especially at night, when village lights twinkle and slopes are lit for evening runs. Nearby in Cadillac, take on 27 runs and 485 vertical feet at Caberfae Peaks. Here, you’ll also want to check out 25-plus acres of backcountry terrain noted for its chutes, glades and untracked powder. Both ski areas offer slopeside lodging, rental equipment and lessons for all ages.

Explore Ludington State Park at night. Hike a lantern-lit trail through a portion of the state park, including a stop at the amphitheater for hot chocolate and marshmallow roasting around a campfire. When conditions allow, about 40 pairs of snowshoes are available to borrow at no cost thanks to the Friends of Ludington State Park. (Snowshoes aren’t required if you just want to wear your winter boots.) The event is free, but a Recreation Passport is required for vehicle entry into the park. Watch for event dates to be announced at friendsofludingtonstatepark.org.

Sled endless snowmobile trails in the Cadillac area, a hub for a regional network with nearly 500 miles through five counties. Coyote Crossing Resort is a popular hangout and owner Pete Finch is happy to recommend routes—plus he publishes a weekly trail report on the resort’s website. There are 10 rental cabins, plus a relaxed bar with the requisite cheese curds and live music. Beginners, K&R Outfitters will take you on a guided snowmobile adventure.

Discover the Big “M.” This 37.9-mile trail system is a treasure in any season. Crosscountry skiers glide beneath a canopy of hardwoods on 18 miles of groomed trail between Cadillac and Wellston. Snowfall averages 130 inches from December to March, but the best skiing is usually in January and February. One loop, the Winter Sports Trail, is groomed for fat-bike riding and snowshoeing.

Winter is more than an outdoor destination in Manistee. The natural beauty is paired with the right combination of small-town hospitality, fantastic food and a unique dose of Michigan history and culture.

Whether you are here for an epic winter adventure in the great outdoors or have more of a low-key getaway in mind, you are sure to be delighted by all there is to see and do in our corner of The Mitten.

the up north

insider’s list

Rent snowshoes at Crystal River Outfitters and explore the wild beauty of Sleeping Bear Dunes. Popular Empire Bluff wows in all seasons; Bay View Trail is quieter within the Port Oneida Rural Historic District.

Learn to curl on the indoor ice rink at Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse in Maple City. Afterward, order the hot honey pizza with roasted garlic and speck ham.

Book a room at The Riverside Inn, a nostalgic neighborhood tavern and seasonally driven restaurant that has stood proudly at the banks of the Leland River since 1902. You’ll find five en-suite rooms nestled upstairs; No. 4 is dark and moody, like being tucked under a thick wool blanket.

Dune Bird Winery in Northport feels like your stylish friend’s living room, with oversized leather furniture, sheepskin throws and a Scandiinspired fireplace. Legit espresso and fam-friendly, too.

Warm, melty raclette is the ultimate comfort food. Visit the creamery at Leelanau Cheese, a Super Gold winner at the prestigious World Cheese Awards, to get a quarter wheel and a portable griddle set for après-ski noshing.

Wool & Honey yarn shop in Cedar is a soft explosion of color in the white expanse of winter. Browse fibers and gifts; ask about the yarn club.

Michigan’s pinky finger is dazzling after a fresh dusting of snow. From forest hikes with big-water views to chic but cozy lodging destinations, experience the magic of winter on the Leelanau Peninsula.

by Carly Simpson

Sweet Small Towns

From Northport to Empire, these boroughs delight during the off season.

by Carly Simpson

CEDAR

Grab a chai latte at Cedar River Coffee Company, then wander down the street to The Folded Leaf book shop, originally a 1960s gas station. Keep the cozy vibes going at yarn boutique Wool & Honey and the Polish Art Center, where you can shop brilliant blue Boleslawiec pottery and Kopernik chocolate-covered gingerbread cookies. Wrap with dinner and drinks at Cedar Tavern or pick up pizza and other hot dishes to go (smoked turkey legs, meatloaf) at Bunting’s Market.

EMPIRE

You could finish your Christmas shopping within one square mile in downtown Empire. Get lost among loon tea towels, toad embroidery kits and woodsy-inspired apparel at Nature Walk; whimsical, contemporary art from more than 200 makers at The Secret Garden; eclectic home decor finds at The Miser’s Hoard. After the holidays, time slows down. Hangout at Joe’s Friendly Tavern and The Village Inn, the kind of watering holes that haven’t lost their local charm.

GLEN ARBOR

This Sleeping Bear Bay hamlet is full of iconic locales: the towering Dune Climb (sled it in winter!), the ruby red kingdom of Cherry Republic (take home cherry shortbread cookies and cherry crème honey); the OG M22 shop that turned a highway into a lifestyle; cash-only Art’s Tavern, where the tall tales and tater tots get better and better the closer it is to closing time. For a more elegant affair, opt for Supper at The Mill, and book a stay at the riverside Mill House.

MAPLE CITY

Pegtown Station, a locals hangout and all-day eatery, is the heart of this tiny community—and a perfect place for buttermilk pancakes in the morning and hearty calzones at night. North of town, the Detroit-style pizza and sammies are musts at Market 22 (the Reuben pizza defies expectations) or stop at Little Traverse Inn for gastro-pub fare with a hint of Indian and British influence.

LAKE LEELANAU

Consider this waterfront town on the Lake Leelanau Narrows to be your wine tour headquarters. Downtown mixes a friendly ambiance with the buzz of three tasting rooms (Boathouse, Amoritas and Soul Squeeze); another trio with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside sit just off the main drag, M-204 (Blustone, 45 North, Aurora Cellars).

LELAND

Start with breakfast at Trish’s Dishes, then bundle up and walk to Van’s Beach for icy blue water views. Keep your eyes peeled for the equally vibrant Leland Blue stone. Nearby, Fishtown’s seasonally shuttered shanties are magic in the snow. Browse Main Street’s boutiques, including one of the sweetest bookstores in the North (Leelanau Books), and break for wine at Verterra. End your day with relaxed fine dining at The Riverside Inn, where you can walk upstairs afterward to a plush suite with linen robes and a rainfall shower.

NORTHPORT

Get coffee and treats at New Bohemian Cafe, while away hours browsing gifts and home elements in the Pennington Collection and The Find North, then bowl while you grab burgers and beer at Northport Pub & Grille. Snowshoe the trail system at Leelanau State Park and see the Grand Traverse Lighthouse blanketed in snow.

OMENA & PESHAWBESTOWN

Take a table with a panoramic view of Omena Bay at Knot Just a Bar, taste away at Leelanau Cellars and hit the slots at Leelanau Sands Casino in Peshawbestown, the home of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians.

SUTTONS BAY

Here’s a downtown loaded with charming storefronts, just begging you to slowly stroll, arm-in-arm. Find winter shopping at Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, The Front Porch and Lima Bean. The list of open eateries is equally healthy. On the elevated side: Martha’s Leelanau Table, Wren, Gilchrist Farm. More casual: Streetside Grille, Boone’s Prime Time Pub, Hop Lot Brewing Co. Make sure to catch a movie at the historic, community-owned Bay Theatre.

Winter Vacation, Leelanau-Style

The Lake Michigan shoreline and its snowy dune and forest wonderlands are calling your name.

by Carly Simpson

BY

Find peace in one of 28 Leelanau Conservancy natural areas and preserves, perfect for snowshoeing, Nordic skiing or just plain walkin’ in a winter wonderland. The 279-acre Kehl Lake Natural Area is remote (about 2.5 miles north of Northport at the tip of the peninsula), but the beauty and solitude are worth the trip, especially in winter. Spend an afternoon exploring the two-mile trail network. Go slowly to take in the old-growth white pine and 100-year-old hemlocks. For a picnic, kick back on the lake’s birding platform— make the moment special with a camp stove.

Say “wheeeeeeeeeee!” as you shoot down the tubing hill at Timberlee, then take it easy and enjoy the scenic ride back up to the top of the run on their tried-and-true towline. When you need a warm-up, head inside the property’s lodge for fam-friendly dining: pizza, hot dogs, nachos. Pro tip: Check for special events like glow tubing with laser lights, a DJ, drink specials and good vibes.

Do the dunes. The hikes and overlooks that can be crowded in summer become quiet when winter descends on Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Winter camp at Platte River Campground, sign up for a ranger-led snowshoe hike, race a sled down the snow-covered Dune Climb. For easy gliding, hit the groomed Heritage Trail on cross-country skis or snowshoes, or for rolling wooded hills (and the best cross-country skiing within the Lakeshore), explore Alligator Hill. Top it off with a decadent mug of drinking chocolate at Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate in Empire.

Snowshoe the vines on a guided tour with Grand Traverse Bike Tours. You’ll venture to three wineries—Big Little Wines, Ciccone Vineyard, Suttons Bay Ciders—via a private trail that’s exclusive to tour guests, passing through snow-kissed woodlands, fields and vineyards. Lunch is included; available Saturdays from December–March.

Take a spin on a village ice rink. Suttons Bay has ice at 214 W. Broadway St.—and you can rent skates by the day at nearby Suttons Bay Bikes. For a nighttime whirl, visit Leland’s Hancock Field, which is lit during the evening hours. Reserve an igloo at Hop Lot Brewing Co. for a post-skate brewski.

Pedal in all weather. Winter is no reason to stop biking. The 3-mile Vineyard Trail at 45 North Vineyard & Winery is free to use during business hours, with terrain covering everything from gentle slopes to uphill climbs. Or, for a longer ride, cruise 14 groomed miles on the Leelanau Trail. Get fat bike rentals, maps and tips from the pros at Suttons Bay Bikes.

UniqueGardenArt | HomeDecor |

the up north

insider’s list

Snap a pic in front of the World’s Largest Ice Tree in downtown Gaylord. At its seasonal peak, the beloved attraction, also known as “Cold Faithful,” weighs an average of 190 to 200 tons.

Warm up with a bowl of spaghetti Bolognese with fresh basil and burrata at Mimi and Pipi’s, Grayling’s sleek new Italian restaurant downtown.

An art gallery with a coffee shop inside? Our idea of heaven. Browse hundreds of works by Michigan makers at AuSable Artisan Village in Grayling. Swing by Our Town Coffee for a cappuccino and a chewy gingermolasses cookie for dunking.

Escape to Garland Lodge & Resort in Lewiston for a cozy cabin getaway vibe. Think twinkle lights, log furniture, horse-drawn sleigh rides, plus Nordic trails right out your back door. Bonus: Private ski lessons are only $20 and will have you gliding gracefully in no time.

Giggle your way through the steep drops and exhilarating curves at the tubing hill at Treetops Resort. Catch your breath as the Magic Carpet takes you back to the top to do it all over again.

Grab a cold beer at Rolling Oak Brewing Co.’s ice-house-turnedbrewery. Try a Shorter Cut to Fun whiskey-barrel stout or the Call Your Mother New England IPA brewed with honey.

Northern Michigan’s snowbelt is brimming with winter fun. Here’s your introduction.

by Cara McDonald

The Heart of Winter

The snow-blessed corridor between Gaylord and Grayling is home to some of the best ops for winter recreation Up North. Grab your handwarmers, skis and sense of adventure.

by Cara McDonald & Carly Simpson

BY

Good news for skiers, skaters and snowmobilers: Gaylord’s snow-globe microclimate sees piles more white stuff each winter than her coastal neighbors. To the south, Grayling waits for the lake-effect storms to drop their heavy load as air cools inland. The Heart of the North is the heart of winter, and we’re here for it. We’d play this way:

Wander an enchanted forest via the Old Growth Forest Trail at Hartwick Pines State Park near Grayling, where you’ll be awed by white pines that are centuries old. The towering trees reach heights of over 160 feet, and trails are just right for snowshoeing and winter hiking. The lantern-lit snowshoe hikes are especially gorgeous (dates to be announced).

Start your engines. Gaylord is a snowmobiling paradise. Rent a sled or trailer your own and explore the 500 miles of groomed trails that branch out from this central hub. Riders can jump on Trail #7 and head north toward the Upper Peninsula, or take it easy on Trail #4 and meander into East Jordan and Mancelona. The Michigan Snowmobile Festival is always a good time in February.

Dash through the snow in a horse-drawn sleigh at Cook Family Farm in Gaylord, then warm up with cocoa and freshly baked cookies, complimentary with your ride.

Kick and glide your way through some of the best Nordic ski conditions in the North. Some highlights:

For stay-and-play, check out The Otsego Ski Club/Hidden Valley Resort which offers both alpine and Nordic options, with lodging available for members. Marsh Ridge Golf and Nordic Ski Resort has 40 km of groomed trails. Some 365 acres of both groomed and off-trail Nordic skiing await visitors to the Lakeview Hills Country Inn.

For more of a big-wild fix, you’ll find state forest trails like Pine Baron, Shingle Mill and Springbook Pathways that are great destinations with intermittent.

If you’re an avid skier, in training or clocking serious mileage, check out the 56 km of groomed trails at Wilderness Valley, including a 1.5 km loop lit for night skiing.

Cross-country skiing goes from good to great when you do it at a Nordic center like Forbush Corner—you can count on professional grooming, tuning and waxing, lessons, gear demos, rentals and sales. Forbush also has a state-of-theart SMI snowmaking system on a 2 km loop, so there’s always something skiable.

Cross-Country Ski Headquarters in Roscommon is a combo shop and skiing destination that packs the one-two punch of being a full-service skiing destination with retail, expert ski fitting, trails and the woodsy, cozy Stone Turtle Café and Lodge for warming, with fare like paninis, cookies and cocktails.

Sweet Small Towns

Shop, dine, paddle and sled your way through this gorgeous region.

by Carly Simpson

GAYLORD

This Swiss-themed city—crowned Michigan’s “Alpine Village” thanks to its relationship with sister city Pontresina, Switzerland—fittingly lies in the state’s snowbelt, where 140-plus wonderfully fluffy inches of snow fall on average each year. Home to four-season resorts like Otsego and Treetops and surrounded by more than 100,000 acres of state forest, Gaylord is a winter-sports paradise. Downtown’s Main Street is a shopping hub: The Old Spud Warehouse offers one-of-a-kind home décor and unexpected gifts, Isabella’s Copper Pot is a home cook’s idea of heaven and Aub Marley’s has eclectic and vintage treasures galore. Don’t leave town without dining at Bennethum’s Northern Inn.

GRAYLING

The city that dubs itself “Michigan’s most colorful river town” sits at the headwaters of the Au Sable and Manistee. Add big, beautiful Lake Margrethe, a smattering of smaller lakes and miles of forests to Grayling’s attributes and you get the picture: life here revolves around four seasons of outdoor sports. Standout attractions? The virgin white- and red-pine forest at Hartwick Pines State Park and 35 km of groomed Nordic ski trails at Hanson Hills. Downtown, catch a movie at The Rialto, savor to-die-for pasta at Mimi and Pipi’s, find all sorts of gifts and goodies at The Curator and join fly anglers from around the world at the Old AuSable Fly Shop.

INDIAN RIVER

This homey town is tucked between Burt and Mullett lakes and sits along the 40-mile Inland Waterway. Indian River is also at the convergence of some of the state’s greatest hiking, biking and snowmobile trails: the 75-mile North

Central State Trail; the 70-mile North Eastern State Trail and the 32-mile North Western State Trail. A popular attraction here is the 55-foot-high, 22-foot-wide Cross in the Woods that bears a seven-ton corpus of Jesus cast in bronze at a foundry in Norway. At day’s end, locals and visitors gather at Northland Brewing Company for much-needed relaxation.

LEWISTON

With its 22 lakes, this Northwoods burg is half made of water (and ice). But you’ll also find the rustic elegance of Garland Lodge, where you can cross-country ski, snowshoe or relax by the fire. On select Saturdays, Garland’s Trout Camp experience offers ice fishing, ice putting, ice bowling and ice badminton on the resort’s frozen ponds. More winter fun: Learn to curl at the Lewiston Curling Club.

VANDERBILT

You could visit Vanderbilt—the northern gateway to Pigeon River Country State Forest—and never spend time inside. Find camping, hiking, snowmobiling and horseback riding on miles of nearby trails, as well as fishing on the Sturgeon and Pigeon rivers.

WOLVERINE

The spunky, fast-moving Sturgeon River runs through this quiet town. Head out on an exhilarating paddle (guided winter rafting trips offered through Sturgeon River Paddlesports; no experience needed), and grab a bite afterward at The Thirsty Sturgeon Bar & Grille. This little log cabin right on the river has a Mac Daddy Burger loaded with mac ‛n’ cheese alongside entrées like parmesan walleye, chicken marsala and butter-rum pasta.