Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2025

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6

News

VR Print shines at FTASA Print Excellence Awards

IMCD celebrates 30 years of innovation

A bronze BSB Innovation Award for Carbopol® BioSense Polymer

8 Events

Exhibitor registration opens for ACHEMA 2027

10 Skin Science & Face Care

LipoTrue’s collagen fragment technologies

18

22 Pharma Focus/ Health & Wellness

Sabinsa explores the power of persanolisation

Ingredients to nourish the mind from Savannah

Brenntag SA receives a new SAHPRA license

28 Process & Manufacturing Technology

VEGA’s smart sensors drive manufacturing forward Flexible filling and capping platform for OTCs

Closing the sensory gap in mineral versus chemical sunscreens 22

Allmech’s automated system eliminates hard water headaches

32 Sustainable Packaging

Vaseline bottle takes top honours at SAPRO Awards

Trend tracker reveals paper packaging is SA’s sustainable choice

36 Speciality Ingredients

High-impact under eye care from Vantage

40 Association News

Coschem’s scientific conference highlights

Empower skin to thrive with Insapolive Go beyond skincare with Up-Citrus

Sustain cellular vitality with Ecoffea® Citrus

SpecBio® Ectoine, a multifunctional anti-ageing active

OptiMSM®, a hero ingredient for beauty from within

30

Technologies everyone will be talking about

As we race into the final quarter of 2025, the October edition of P&C Review showcases the remarkable innovation driving your industry forward. This month you'll discover innovative ingredients and formulation technologies, which are reshaping how you approach skincare product development, pharmaceutical manufacturing, and your sustainable packaging goals.

The section on Skin Science & Face Care explores revolutionary collagen fragment technologies from LipoTrue, alongside active ingredients that champion sustainability, such as Up-Citrus from citrus waste and Ecoffea® Citrus from coffee by-products. These innovations demonstrate how biotechnology is delivering effective ingredients within the realm of environmental responsibility.

Our pharma focus brings you good news as Brenntag South Africa announces its new SAHPRA license. This milestone is set to streamline API importation for local manufacturers. Sabinsa also explores its wide range of nutraceutical ingredients, which meets consumers’ needs for personalised health and wellness offerings.

If you’re looking for smart manufacturing solutions, our Process & Manufacturing Technology features Allmech’s water treatment solutions that are solving real production challenges. And, to help you reach your sustainable packaging goals, we explore the results of the recent SAPRO Awards, with Unilever’s 50% recycled HDPE Vaseline bottle taking home the ultimate prize.

Be sure to check out the exclusive highlights of the 2025 Coschem Scientific Conference, where AI applications in hair science and sustainable formulation strategies took centre stage.

Enjoy the read!

The team

EDITORIAL

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VR Print shines at FTASA Print Excellence Awards

VR Print has demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship by securing three prestigious awards at the 2025 FTASA Print Excellence Awards. The South African printing company won two Golds in the Labels Self-Adhesive (Line & Tone) and Narrow Web (Wraparound) categories, alongside a Silver in the Labels Self-Adhesive (Line & Tone) category.

The FTASA Print Excellence Awards, organised annually by the Flexographic Technical Association of South Africa, celebrate innovation and excellence in flexographic printing. These awards recognise outstanding projects based on creativity, technical execution and adherence to sustainable printing principles.

VR Print’s success reflects an unwavering commitment to quality and excellence in the labelling and packaging sectors. The company credited its production and design teams for their meticulous attention to detail and passion for craftsmanship.

These accolades solidify VR Print’s position as an industry leader, demonstrating its dedication to pushing boundaries and elevating print standards across the flexographic printing landscape.

IMCD celebrates 30 years of innovation

A global leading distribution partner and formulator of specialty chemicals and ingredients, IMCD Group is proud to celebrate its 30th anniversary. Founded in Rotterdam in 1995, IMCD has grown from a humble base in the Benelux and France into a global leader with more than 5 200 employees across 60+ countries, supported by 110 offices, 80 laboratories and 150 warehouses worldwide.

Over three decades, IMCD has transformed distribution into true partnership, co-creating innovative and sustainable solutions with suppliers and customers around the globe. Major milestones have included surpassing

€1 billion in revenue in 2011, a successful listing on Euronext Amsterdam in 2014, strategic acquisitions such as MF Cachat in the US and Signet in India, and a deepened commitment to sustainability through Together for Sustainability and the Science Based Targets initiative.

Marcus Jordan, chief executive officer of IMCD, commented: “I am deeply honoured to lead IMCD into its 30th anniversary – a milestone made possible by the vision of our founder, Piet van der Slikke, supported by his trusted CFO Hans Kooijmans, and driven by an entrepreneurial mindset and a bold purpose:

To transform distribution into true partnerships. Our success has always been rooted in people, our employees around the world, our suppliers, and our customers, working together with entrepreneurial spirit, creativity and trust. Over three decades we have grown from a Rotterdam base into a global leader, while staying true to the partnerships that brought us here. As we celebrate today, I look forward with confidence. Together we will continue to create opportunities, co-develop sustainable solutions, and write the next chapter of IMCD’s story, building on our heritage and continuing to deliver growth for all our stakeholders.”

® BioSense Polymer wins

Bronze at BSB Innovation Awards

Lubrizol’s latest innovation – Carbopol® BioSense polymer – has been awarded a Bronze BSB Innovation Award in the Environment/Raw Materials category.

This is a significant milestone for the business as Carbopol® BioSense polymer is the first readily biodegradable ingredient in the Carbopol® portfolio.

Designed to meet growing consumer demand for natural, high-performing ingredients, Carbopol® BioSense polymer is a naturally derived rheology modifier and sensory enhancer. It delivers a rich and soft, synthetic-like feel comparable to silicone elastomers with the absence of stickiness and peeling, making it ideal for a wide range of formulations from serums and lotions to light creams.

With a 98% natural origin content, the polymer is vegan, COSMOS/ECOCERT certified, and addresses the 12 principles of green chemistry.

Carbopol® BioSense polymer is ideal for skincare applications, offering a variety of medium-viscosity emulsions from 500mPa·s to 15 000mPa·s. When combined with natural and synthetic rheology

modifiers, it enables the creation of a wide range of lotions and light creams. In sun care, it is compatible with organic UV filters and low amounts of zinc oxide.

Carbopol® BioSense polymer is the first readily biodegradable ingredient in the Carbopol® portfolio

The BSB Innovation Awards recognise outstanding achievements in the cosmetics industry. The Environment category celebrates ingredients that make a positive impact on the planet, and Carbopol® BioSense polymer exemplifies this mission.

A STRONGER FOCUS AT ACHEMA 2027

From 14 to 18 June 2027, ACHEMA will be back in Frankfurt, placing even greater emphasis on the future-oriented topics of energy, life sciences, sustainability and digitalisation. Exhibitors can register now.

Every three years, ACHEMA demonstrates what progress means – it is the meeting place where the future of the process industry takes shape. For five days from 14 to 18 June 2027, the Frankfurt exhibition grounds in Germany will once again become a stage for ideas, technologies and people who are driving change in industry and society worldwide.

More than 140 nations will be represented at this unique forum, which makes innovations visible and tangible. ACHEMA will also offer several new features and highlights in 2027.

MORE SPACE FOR PROCESS INNOVATION

The exhibition group Pumps, Valves and Materials brings together two related segments under a new name. Halls 8.0 and 9.0 – the location of the Process Innovation Stage – will offer a central showcase area for industrial solutions in fluid and materials technology.

The exhibition group Research and Innovation, together with the Start-up Area, will move to Hall 11.0 in future, bringing these areas even closer to the digital topics at ACHEMA – and answering to the request that came primarily from younger exhibitors. This will provide additional space for Mechanical Processes in Halls 5.0 and 6.0, if necessary.

ENERGY AT THE HEART OF TRANSFORMATION

The process industry in particular needs solutions for tomorrow's energy

challenges. However, it also provides innovative solutions for a reliable, efficient and sustainable energy supply for numerous other sectors.

The exhibition group Engineering and Energy in Halls 5.1 and 6.1 will be home to the new Energy Innovation Stage and become the hotspot for solutions in hydrogen and Power-to-X, CCUS, energy management and efficiency, energy supply and storage, the electrification of processes and much more.

LIFE SCIENCE INDUSTRY IN THE SPOTLIGHT

By 2024, a third of the 106 001 ACEHMA participants came from the pharmaceutical and life sciences industry, and well over 1 000 exhibitors offered specialised solutions for this sector.

ACHEMA 2027 is picking up on this momentum and positioning itself even more clearly as the World Forum and Leading Show for Life Science and Process Industries. The innovation themes pharma and lab, as well as the Action Area Digital Lab, will create a showcase for the latest technologies in the industry.

ACHEMA will offer several new features and highlights in 2027

SUSTAINABILITY AND AI REMAIN ESSENTIAL

Sustainable solutions have established their place in the process industries. At the same time, it is becoming evident that progress, efficiency and resource conservation will soon be unimaginable without digital technologies and artificial intelligence.

They not only accelerate the transition towards climate neutrality but, above all, towards smart and connected production. With the Green Innovation Stage in Hall 6.0 as well as the Digital Innovation Stage and the Digital Hub in Hall 11.0, ACHEMA 2027 once again provides a stage for these key developments.

EXHIBITORS CAN REGISTER NOW

“With ACHMEMA 2027, Frankfurt will be our homebase, as it has been for the last 90 years. We will be bringing the future to life for the next 107 years.

Our community from more than 140 countries makes ACHEMA a unique forum, which allows us to feel the heartbeat of our industries and provides answers to the big questions of our time. Together with our exhibitors, we are shaping the future of the process industries,” says Dr Björn Mathes, CEO of DECHEMA Exhibitions.

ACHEMA 2027 registration is now open for exhibitors. Visit https://www.achema. de/en/for-exhibitors/application . •

ACEHMA – www.achema.de/en

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COLLAGEN FRAGMENTS & BOOSTERS Small molecules, big results

When it comes to topical collagen, size matters with a smaller molecule having a bigger impact, according to LipoTrue.

Collagen has become one of the most trustworthy ingredients in skincare due to its efficacy and interesting properties, which include anti-ageing, moisturising, humectancy etc. However, the molecular weight barrier has long been an Achilles’ heel of topical collagen.

Recent advances in protein engineering and sustainable biotechnology are dismantling these limitations. The result is bioactive fragments, which represent a fundamental departure from the ‘bigger is better’ mentality, isolating and amplifying specific functional domains of human collagen types I and IV, alongside fibrillin-1 sequences. With these innovations, formulators now hold the molecular keys to unlock targeted cellular responses within the skin’s complex matrix ecosystem.

PLANT-BASED FRAGMENT INNOVATION

Sustainability imperatives have driven the development of Col-Frag remastered™ and Col-4-Frag remastered™, both produced using vertical farming technology with wild plants as biofactories. These biomimetic fragments address industry demands for vegan, nonGMO alternatives whilst maintaining superior functional performance.

LipoTrue’s Col-Frag remastered™ represents a bioengineered fragment of human type I collagen, which stimulates procollagen synthesis whilst providing essential building blocks for collagen stabilisation. Its integrinbinding motifs facilitate enhanced fibroblast adhesion, resulting in improved extracellular matrix contractility.1

Col-4-Frag remastered™ specifically targets the dermo-epidermal junction by weaving the collagen IV net that diminishes with age. This fragment demonstrates good efficacy with up to 28% reduction in wrinkle volume and up to 18% reduction in wrinkle depth within 28 days.2

NOVEL FRAGMENTS PLATFORM

LipoTrue’s innovation in this area extends to its Fragments Remastered platform,

exemplified by Frag-brillin remastered™. This biomimetic fragment of human fibrillin-1 addresses elastic resilience components of skin architecture, targeting microfibrils and elastic fibre structures critical for elasticity and firmness.

The mechanism of Frag-brillin remastered™ induces fibroblast-tomyofibroblast transformation, enhancing ‘cellasticity’ (or cellular elastic resilience). Clinical data demonstrates up to 39% reduction in wrinkle depth with visible improvements occurring within one hour post-application. 3 The fragment enhances tropoelastin coacervation by 91% whilst reducing fibrillin-1 microfibrils fragmentation by 47%, maintaining skin’s mechanical properties.

BIOTENSEGRITY DRIVEN ARCHITECTURE

Although not a plant-based fragment but rather a peptide, LipoTrue’s Skinarch™ is a booster of collagens. It targets all four collagen families (fibrillar collagens, connecting and anchoring collagens, network or sheet-forming collagens and collagen-like membrane proteins) effectively working on nine different collagens.

Clinical studies demonstrate Skinarch™’s efficacy within 56 days at 2% concentration, with the following results:

• up to 64% reduction in wrinkle volume for volunteers with dark-pigmented phototype (V-VI)

• 9% reduction in wrinkle depth. Skinarch™ enhances collagen VI production, which is crucial for modulating collagen I fibril assembly and alignment in the dermal matrix.4

TECHNICAL CONSIDERATIONS

These advanced collagen fragment technologies from LipoTrue, coupled with the collagen boosting technology, offer formulators unprecedented flexibility with 1% to 2% usage concentrations across all platforms. Their watersoluble nature and >99% natural origin certification (ISO standard 16128)

Advanced collagen fragment technologies offer formulators unprecedented flexibility

facilitate seamless integration into diverse applications whilst meeting evolving regulatory and consumer demands.

The endotoxin-free profile and vegan certifications of the plant-derived fragments also address critical safety and ethical considerations.

LipoTrue’s advancement of topical collagen technologies represents a shift towards precision skincare, where specific molecular targets are addressed through engineered bioactive sequences. This approach enables formulators to create multi-dimensional anti-ageing solutions. As the industry evolves, fragment-based approaches will likely become the gold standard for sophisticated topical collagen applications. •

Skinarch™, Frag-brillin remastered™, Col-Frag remastered™ and Col-4-Frag remastered™ are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals.

REFERENCES:

1. Tracy, L.E., et al. (2016). Extracellular matrix and dermal fibroblast function in the healing wound. Advances in Wound Care, 5(3), 119-136.

2. Shoulders, M.D. & Raines, R.T. (2009). Collagen structure and stability. Annual Review of Biochemistry, 78, 929-958.

3. Shoseyov, O., et al. (2014). Human collagen produced in plants: more than just another molecule. Bioengineered, 5(1), 49-52.

4. Fujimura, T., et al. (2007). Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes the molecular profile of collagen. Archives of Dermatological Research, 299(7), 333-340.

LipoTrue – lipotrue.com Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za

BRINGING THE LIGHT FROM WITHIN

Reinforce skin’s resilience from within

In an industry where blue light protection, exosome science and pro-ageing care define innovation, Insapolive by Sophim offers a natural yet high-tech solution – empowering skin to thrive, not just endure.

The beauty industry’s obsession with ‘anti-ageing’ is fading with the proageing revolution. In line with this trend, formulators are rewriting the script on how skin ages at the most fundamental level.

Instead of adding yet another peptide to a formulation, today’s breakthrough formulas are targeting the biological machinery that actually controls ageing. These include mitochondrial powerhouses, DNA repair mechanisms, cellular communication networks, and the protective caps of our chromosomes themselves.

The game-changers? Natural ingredients backed by science, delivering results that would have seemed impossible just five years ago.

One such innovation is Insapolive, a natural emollient derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil. Rich in squalene, this ingredient represents the synergy between tradition and advanced biotechnology, offering targeted benefits that align seamlessly with the pro-ageing movement.

Insapolive promotes proteoglycan synthesis by 18% and collagen formation by 17%

CELLULAR DEFENSE AND DETOXIFICATION

Ageing skin is highly vulnerable to oxidative stress, which can compromise mitochondrial efficiency, cellular communication and its structural integrity. Proteomic analysis has revealed that Insapolive significantly increases the abundance of proteins involved in antioxidant defense and detoxification, enhancing glutathione metabolism by 14% and overall detoxification processes by 11%.

By strengthening skin’s natural resilience against oxidative stress, Insapolive supports healthier, more adaptive cells that can function optimally over time.

REINFORCING STRUCTURE AND REPAIR

Ageing is also marked by the gradual weakening of the extracellular matrix (ECM). Collagen, proteoglycans and other ECM components are essential to elasticity, hydration and firmness. Studies show that Insapolive promotes proteoglycan synthesis by 18% and collagen formation by 17%, helping maintain structural integrity. Barrier function is equally important in skincare. Insapolive has been shown to boost proteins involved in skin barrier formation by 20%, cornified envelope creation, and cell-cell junction assembly (20%). Together, these effects ensure stronger cohesion within the epidermis, improved repair capacity and enhanced defense against environmental aggressors such as UV radiation and pollution.

ADVANCING CELL-TO-CELL COMMUNICATION

Cellular communication is a central theme in next-generation skincare. The explosive growth in exosome research underlines how intercellular signalling is shaping the future of regenerative formulations.

Interestingly, Insapolive contributes here too. It enhances the Eph-ephrin pathway by 34% – a key regulator of how cells move, adhere and communicate. This reinforcement of communication pathways complements emerging research into exosomes, positioning Insapolive as a natural ally in the pro-ageing toolkit.

SENSORIAL AND FORMULATION BENEFITS

Beyond its molecular performance, Insapolive offers strong sensorial advantages. It is a soft, onctuous, non-greasy emollient that absorbs easily and enhances spreadability in creams, serums and body care products. Its versatility extends across skincare, make-up and solid cosmetics, delivering moisturisation, regeneration and a luxurious sensorial profile.

As the industry pivots towards holistic skin longevity, ingredients like Insapolive represent the bridge between nature and advanced science. Its ability to modulate proteins linked to detoxification, barrier function, structural reinforcement and cellular communication makes it an invaluable asset for formulators seeking to meet consumer demand for proageing solutions.

By leveraging sophisticated proteomic studies, Sophim has positioned Insapolive as more than just an emollient – it is a scientifically proven contributor to the future of skin health.

Insapolive is available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals. •

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.com Sophim – www.sophim.com/en

mail@sophim.com

Beyond the orange: Upcycling innovation

With measurable benefits and solid sustainability credentials, Up-Citrus transforms yesterday’s food waste into tomorrow’s must-have formulation component.

Formulators know the challenge: finding ingredients that deliver across multiple applications while meeting sustainability targets. Up-Citrus tackles both demands headon, transforming Italian citrus industry waste into a multifunctional active that performs across skincare, scalp and hair care applications.

Derived from upcycled Italian orange (Citrus x sinensis) and tangerine (Citrus reticulata) peel waste, this botanical extract embodies the principles of upcycling beauty while delivering measurable benefits.

SKIN BENEFITS ROOTED IN SCIENCE

Up-Citrus offers a potent blend of bioactive compounds, including polyphenols such as hesperidin, naringenin and phlorizin, as well as gallic, syringic and chlorogenic acids. These molecules are known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and skin-

In skincare formulations, Up-Citrus supports a revitalised, youthful complexion through its:

• Energising effect

• Antioxidant protection

• Anti-ageing activity (collagen support and wrinkle reduction)

• Illuminating and brightening performance. In vivo studies demonstrate its ability to increase heat loss (skin energy), improve skin tone uniformity and visibly enhance radiance. Additionally, Up-Citrus contributes to microbiome balance and soothing efficacy by regulating porphyrins and inhibiting erythema, making it ideal for sensitive skincare applications.

SCALP AND HAIR CARE POTENTIAL

Beyond the skin, Up-Citrus shows promise in scalp care by significantly reducing bacterial porphyrins, helping restore microbiome equilibrium and supporting a healthier scalp environment.

Up-Citrus shows promise in scalp care

FORMULATION VERSATILITY

Up-Citrus is suitable for a wide range of personal care products, including:

• Anti-ageing and soft-ageing creams

• Brightening serums and masks

• Illuminating concealers

• Scalp-balancing treatments

• Antioxidant-rich hair care solutions

Its antioxidant and soothing properties make it a valuable addition to hair care formulations targeting scalp irritation, dullness and environmental stress.

Offeringproductswithupcycled ingredientsgivesconsumersa waytoaligntheirsustainability valueswiththeirpurchasingpower.

With additional components such as pectins (polysaccharides known for detoxifying properties) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) – which is a well-established antioxidant and collagen booster – Up-Citrus delivers a comprehensive approach to skin and hair wellness.

This upcycled active ingredient from Chempure exemplifies how natural origin, scientific validation and sustainable sourcing can converge to meet the demands of modern consumers and cosmetic chemists. As the industry continues to prioritise transparency and efficacy, upcycled ingredients like this offer a compelling path forward. •

Chempure – chempure.co.za

Merging sustainability with advanced skin science

The evolution of skincare has shifted from traditional anti-ageing claims toward a pro-ageing paradigm. Instead of focusing on the reversal of time, skincare has become centered on sustaining cellular vitality and structural integrity at the molecular level.

By Rafael Bíscaro, Chemyunion’s skincare marketing specialist

Chemyunion’s latest development exemplifies the pro-ageing approach.

Ecoffea® Citrus is a standardised extract derived from Coffea arabica press cake and Citrus limon (Sicilian lemon) bagasse, which are industrial by-products rich in phenolic compounds.

By merging environmental responsibility with cutting-edge dermal science, Ecoffea® Citrus demonstrates remarkable efficacy in restoring extracellular matrix proteins, improving mitochondrial function and visibly reducing wrinkles on delicate areas such as the décolleté.

SCIENTIFIC RATIONALE AND SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION

The cosmetic and food industries generate vast amounts of waste, often rich in unexploited bioactive molecules. Brazil, as the world’s leading coffee and citrus producer, discards thousands of tons of press cake and fruit residues annually. These by-products, far from being inert, contain polyphenols such as chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid and flavonoids, known for their antioxidant and regenerative properties.

Chemyunion developed Ecoffea ® Citrus through optimised green extraction processes, integrating sustainability with efficacy

BENEFITS OF ECOFFEA® CITRUS

Stimulates cellular longevity through the expression of sirtuin-3.

• Booster of structural proteins Type I, III, and IV Collagen and Fibronectin, which are essential for skin firmness and elasticity.

Improves skin elasticity, texture and roughness after 28 days.

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles after 28 days.

Upcycled beauty trend where food industry by-products are reused to create cosmetic ingredients.

2: (A) The average reduction in area, perimeter and volume of wrinkles between the first day (D0) and after 28 days of treatment (D28) was compared between the placebo and Ecoffea® Citrus groups. (B) The average reduction in roughness parameters between the first day (D0) and after 28 days of treatment (D28), comparing the two groups: placebo and Ecoffea® Citrus. *p<0.05 in relation to D0

Harnessing these compounds, Chemyunion developed Ecoffea ® Citrus through optimised green extraction processes, integrating sustainability with efficacy. This innovation aligns with the global circular beauty movement, upcycling materials to create high-value actives while addressing consumer demand for environmentally conscious formulations.

EX VIVO MOLECULAR-LEVEL EFFICACY

To validate its potential as a pro ageing active, Ecoffea ® Citrus at 0.5% was evaluated in ex vivo human skin explants. Immunofluorescence analysis revealed significant stimulation of key structural and regulatory proteins: These findings position Ecoffea ® Citrus as more than a surface-level cosmetic ingredient. It actively influences cellular pathways linked to longevity and tissue repair.

CLINICAL OUTCOMES

A 28-day double-blind clinical study involving 44 female volunteers further demonstrated the active’s visible impact. Applied twice daily to the neck and décolleté, 0.5% Ecoffea ® Citrus cream achieved statistically significant improvements versus placebo, measured by high-resolution 3D stereophotogrammetry (AEVA-HE V4) (see figure 2). These objective

Chemyunion developed Ecoffea ® Citrus through optimised green extraction processes Chemyunion

metrics were corroborated by standardised photographs (see figure 3), showing visibly smoother, more uniform skin texture after just four weeks.

A FUTURE-FORWARD VISION

The convergence of sustainability and advanced skin science is not a passing trend but a necessity. By transforming waste into actives that enhance environmental and biological resilience, Ecoffea ® Citrus represents the next generation of innovation in cosmetic ingredients. Its dual role, stimulating structural proteins and mitochondrial health while embodying circular economy principles, aligns perfectly with the industry’s shift toward holistic pro-ageing solutions.

Ageing is no longer combated solely with surface-level wrinkle reduction but approached as a multidimensional process requiring advanced molecular interventions.

Chemyunion’s Ecoffea ® Citrus, derived from Coffea arabica and Citrus limon by-products, represents a breakthrough in pro-ageing innovation. By restoring collagen networks, enhancing fibronectin, boosting mitochondrial regulators and delivering visible wrinkle reduction in just 28 days, this upcycled active bridges sustainability with science-backed efficacy.

Ecoffea ® Citrus is available in South Africa from IMCD. •

SpecBio® Ectoine –fermentation-powered skin defense

SpecBio®

Ectoine is a multifunctional, sustainable anti-ageing active produced by fermentation. As part of the new generation of biotech-derived skin care ingredients, it is ideally suited for use in moisturisers, serums, sunscreens, cleansers and soothing treatments.

Ingredient innovation in personal care is increasingly guided by consumer demand for efficacy and sustainability. Today’s market expects actives that deliver visible results while being safe, natural and responsibly produced. For formulators this means identifying ingredients that combine clinical performance with a clean label profile.

One such innovation is SpecBio® Ectoine from Spec-Chem, a fermentation-derived active supported by strong scientific validation.

ORIGIN AND MECHANISM

Ectoine was first identified in extremophile bacteria that survive in high-salinity environments exposed to heat and UV stress. These microorganisms produce ectoine to stabilise their cells. In cosmetic applications this same mechanism supports skin protection and repair.

SpecBio® Ectoine has a highly polar molecular structure. It forms an ‘ectoine water complex’ binding four to five water molecules and creating a hydration shell around cells

DID YOU KNOW?

Ectoine’s superstar ability is protection. It is reportedly the most prominent osmolyte in nature, helping organisms survive extreme conditions and restore their normal cell volume. That same mechanism helps protect and strengthen human skin.

a 1% ectoine solution increased skin hydration and reduced water loss within seven hours

and proteins. This reduces trans-epidermal water loss, stabilizes biomolecules and shields the skin barrier against external stressors such as pollution, allergens, UV radiation and temperature fluctuations.

CLINICAL PERFORMANCE

The efficacy of SpecBio® Ectoine has been extensively tested in in vitro and in vivo studies, with the following results:

• Moisturisation – a 1% ectoine solution increased skin hydration and reduced water loss within seven hours.

• Anti-ageing – in a 56-day study with 33 volunteers, a cream with 1% ectoine reduced wrinkle volume by up to 26% and improved elasticity by more than 22%.

• Soothing – redness decreased by over 15% after eight weeks of use.

• Brightening – skin tone improved by more than 14% in the same period.

SUSTAINABILITY

AND SAFETY

SpecBio ® Ectoine is produced by fermentation which reduces environmental impact compared with chemical synthesis. It is 100% natural, COSMOS-approved and suitable for sensitive and allergy-prone skin. Stability across a broad pH range (one to nine) and resistance to heat make it straightforward to formulate. It is soluble in water and polyols, compatible with most formulation types and requires no special light protection.

APPLICATION VERSATILITY

Moisturisers, sunscreens, cleansers, serums and soothing treatments can benefit from SpecBio® Ectoine in their formulations. It is effective at concentrations between 0.1% and 7% depending on the product type. Its ability to act as both a protective and reparative agent reduces the need for multiple actives, simplifying formulation while delivering multifunctional benefits.

A MULTITASKER WITH MANY BENEFITS

SpecBio® Ectoine is a next-generation active that combines efficacy, safety and sustainability. Its broad range of clinically proven benefits – hydration, wrinkle reduction, soothing, brightening and repair – make it a reliable choice for formulators responding to evolving consumer expectations.

• Repair – in vitro scratch tests confirmed accelerated fibroblast mobility demonstrating its cell repair capacity. Brenntag Specialties

As the industry advances toward biotechnology derived solutions and clean beauty standards, SpecBio® Ectoine offers a scientifically proven and sustainable path forward.

TALK TO THE EXPERTS

Brenntag Specialties Beauty & Personal Care team is here to help you navigate the shift toward innovative ingredients. Contact the local team for more information. •

www.brenntag.com/en-za/industries/beautyand-personal-care/

Double the impact: Why MSM is collagen's perfect partner

OptiMSM® is a hero ingredient for beauty-fromwithin applications. It is the purest and most researched MSM on the market. MSM is a source of sulfur, an essential structural component of the building blocks of skin and hair, as well as the potent antioxidant glutathione.1, 2

On its own, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) demonstrates skincare benefits, including helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 3, 4 What makes OptiMSM out for nutricosmetics formulations, is its synergistic potential when combined with collagen. This powerful pair demonstrates superior benefits when used in combination. 5

how together, these powerhouse ingredients can help elevate nutricosmetic formulations.7

Collagen has long been the undisputed star ingredient of the beauty-from-within market, experiencing high and sustained growth for well over a decade. But with over 3 000 new collagen supplement products launched globally each year, shelves are crowded, and brands need to innovate to stand out. 6

After 12 weeks of supplementation, participants receiving collagen showed significant improvement in skin density and wrinkle depth compared to both their baseline and placebo, regardless of MSM addition. However, benefits like increased skin thickness and hydration were only seen when MSM and collagen were combined. What’s more, while collagen alone did reduce skin roughness, this effect was greater with the addition of MSM. 8

Together, collagen and MSM offer complementary mechanisms of protection for skin health. While both aid in the production of collagen and other critical architectural components of the skin, collagen stimulates immune-mediated remodelling of the skin and MSM promotes antioxidant defense by supporting the structure and function of glutathione. 9, 10 These overlapping, yet distinct roles allow the pair to deliver greater improvements for skin health than when taken alone.

OptiMSM ® is available in South Africa from Nautilus Chemicals. •

References available on request

Nautilus Chemicals – nautiluschemicals.co.za

Hair and skin nutrition from the inside out.

OptiMSM is a source of sulfur, a building block of collagen and keratin, two key components for healthy hair and radiant skin. Optimize Your Potential.

Preventive ingredients shape the future of wellness

The future of preventive medicine lies in the convergence of clinical validation, bioavailability technologies and regulatory strategies with consumer education. These elements can transform preventive medicine from luxury to mainstream healthcare, empowering healthier lives.

Health and wellness is shifting gears. Instead of waiting to treat illnesses after they arise, more people and healthcare providers are now focusing on disease prevention. Consumers are choosing proactive health maintenance, personalised to the individual and anticipated before symptoms arise.

Precision health (driven by genomics, metabolomics and microbiome profiling) and personalised wellness solutions are now a cornerstone in product innovation.

Microbiome research has accelerated from niche academic interest to mainstream applications. Meanwhile, nutricosmetics, functional foods and targeted supplements are experiencing a surge in popularity, aiming to deliver benefits at a cellular level.

TRENDS IN PREVENTIVE HEALTH AND WELLNESS

Advancements in genetic profiling, metabolic screening and microbiome mapping are enabling the development of personalised

Nutricosmetics, functional foods and targeted supplements are experiencing a surge in popularity

health solutions. Manufacturers are creating tailored supplements and nutricosmetic regimens based on individual needs, such as oxidative stress, inflammation or gut dysbiosis.

The microbiome, especially in relation to the gut-brain-skin axis, plays a vital role in systemic health. It influences inflammation, immune function, neurotransmitter production (e.g., serotonin), and skin barrier integrity. Prebiotics, probiotics and other microbiome-focused ingredients are now associated with broader benefits, improving gut health, emotional well-being, skin and metabolism.

Sabinsa offers a wide range of innovative ingredients for nutricosmetics, functional foods and targeted supplements.

CURCOUSIN ®

CurCousin® (99% pure Calebin-A) is a proprietary curcumin-based formulation along with BioPerine® (95% piperine) designed for enhanced bioavailability and stability.1

Calebin, a well-known polyphenol, exerts potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects through the modulation of key pathways such as NF- κ B and cytokine signalling, along with emerging roles in epigenetic regulation and gut microbiome modulation. 2

CurCousin® has demonstrated its efficacy in animal models supporting joint and bone wellbeing, metabolic imbalance and inflammatory conditions.3, 4

NIGELLIN ®

A standardised extract of Nigella sativa oil containing 5% thymoquinone, Nigellin® is gaining widespread recognition for its broadspectrum health benefits. Its consistent potency and safety are ensured through standardisation of key bioactive compounds, such as thymoquinone.

Traditionally valued for its therapeutic versatility, Nigella sativa has been extensively studied for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties.5

A randomised, double-blind, placebocontrolled study evaluated the effects of Nigellin® on seasonal allergy symptoms. Over 15 days, 65 adults with allergic rhinitis were compared to a placebo. The study showed a significant reduction in nasal symptoms (41.5%), ocular symptoms (53.1%), and a higher improvement on the Patient Global Impression of Change scale (84.2%) compared to placebo. The duration of symptoms dropped by 39.2%.

Serum IgE and eosinophils also decreased, indicating effective allergy relief with no safety concerns.6 Nigellin® was also found to have antimicrobial, skin-protective effects, as well as immune health and dermatological wellness benefits, making it a versatile multifunctional ingredient.5

BOSWELLIN ®

Boswellin®, a standardised extract of Boswellia serrata, is well-known for its potent anti-inflammatory and joint-supportive

effects. Containing at least 30% boswellic acids, Boswellin® is a natural option for managing inflammation and promoting musculoskeletal wellness with strong scientific evidence.

A clinical study by Majeed et al., 2019 demonstrated that Boswellin® significantly reduces pain, stiffness and swelling in osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis, improving joint function and quality of life.7 Unlike NSAIDs, Boswellin® provides these benefits without typical gastrointestinal side effects, supporting safer long-term use. 8 In another study, Boswellin® was shown to significantly reduce joint pain and inflammation, while also inhibiting enzymes like hyaluronidase, collagenase and elastase, which play key roles in cartilage degradation.9

LACTOSPORE ®

LactoSpore® is a patented commercial preparation of probiotic bacteria, Heyndrickxia coagulans (earlier known as Bacillus coagulans ). This innovative probiotic ingredient plays a pivotal role in advancing preventive health and wellness.

Numerous studies have proven that LactoSpore® offers a unique approach to gut health, supporting digestion, immunity and overall well-being.10, 11 Its spore-forming nature ensures stability and potency, even in challenging environments, which makes it ideal to use in functional foods, supplements and nutricosmetics.12

POZIBIO ®

Designed to support key health markers such as oxidative stress and mitochondrial function, PoZibio® is a heat-inactivated Lactobacillus paracasei D3.5 (LpD3.5). Lloyd et al., 2024 demonstrated that PoZibio® may serve as a promising supplement in enhancing emotional and gastrointestinal health in older adults, contributing to an improved quality of life.13

Other strains of Lactobacillus have also shown potential in immune regulation by modulating mucosal-like dendritic cells. These strains enhanced the tolerogenic properties of dendritic cells by upregulating IL-10 production and downregulating pro-inflammatory genes, proving its role in stimulating immune tolerance. This immunemodulating effect highlights the potential of Lactobacillus strains, particularly in the form of postbiotics, to support immune health and reduce inflammation.14

RESVENOX®

Resvenox® is a concentrated extract derived from the roots of Polygonum cuspidatum, with at least 95% resveratrol content. Resveratrol is a known cardioprotective – its effects extend beyond lowering circulating low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol levels. It also helps prevent lipid oxidation and platelet aggregation, supports arterial vasodilation, and modulates lipid and lipoprotein levels. Additionally, resveratrol reduces oxidative stress through its antioxidant properties and its ability to regenerate α-tocopherol.15

The topical application of resveratrol showed a visible improvement of clinical conditions, such as skin hydration, complexion and elasticity, with a remarkable decrease of ageing signs.16

SILBINOL®

Silbinol ® is prepared from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium (Indian Kino), standardised for 5%, 30% and 90% Pterostilbene. It has proven to have efficacy in managing blood sugar levels by promoting healthy pancreatic function and increasing the number of insulin receptors in peripheral tissues. It also supports healthy glucose metabolism while inhibiting the activity of blood sugar-modulating enzymes such as α-amylase, α-glucosidase, and sucrase, which play key roles in regulating blood sugar levels.17

Studies in type-1 diabetic models show that pterostilbene helps normalise liver glycogen levels, supports healthy pancreatic islet structure and enhances immune interactions. In type-2 diabetic models, it

positively impacts key enzymes like liver glucokinase, glucose-6-phosphatase and fructose-1,6-bisphosphatase, which are crucial for blood glucose regulation. Additionally, it reduces total cholesterol, LDL-cholesterol and serum triglycerides, while it increases HDL in animal models, supporting overall metabolic health.18

POMEGRANATE EXTRACT

Pomegranate extract (ellagic acid) is a standardised extract derived from the fruit rinds of the Punica granatum, with a minimum of 40% ellagic acid. Ellagic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis by downregulating the cAMP-mediated signalling pathways of CREB and MITF in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells.19 It is also found to inhibit UV-B-induced inflammation by decreasing proinflammatory mediators like IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-α, while boosting the anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-10 in keratinocytes.20

With its antioxidant properties and free radical scavenging abilities, it helps reduce oxidative damage and promotes healthy ageing.21 In cosmetic applications, it can be used in anti-ageing treatments, topical creams, sun protection, as well as in lotions and creams.

PROVEN EFFECTIVE AND HIGHLY BIOAVAILABLE

Despite the promise of personalised health solutions, several challenges persist. Many phytochemicals, like curcumin and resveratrol, have poor bioavailability, requiring advanced delivery systems to ensure effectiveness. Furthermore, most proprietary extracts lack solid clinical evidence, as many are only backed by small studies, leading to inconsistent results. However, Sabinsa’s ingredients are backed by robust scientific evidence.

Most of its ingredients are combined with BioPerine®, a patented black pepper extract standardised to contain at least 95% piperine, known for boosting nutrient absorption and bioavailability to ensure maximum effectiveness.

As health and wellness trends move decisively toward prevention, precision and personalisation, Sabinsa’s ingredients like CurCousin®, Nigellin®, Boswellin®, LactoSpore®, PoZibio®, Resvenox ®, Silbinol® and Pomegranate Extract offer mechanisms that address inflammation, oxidative stress, microbiome health, metabolic balance, skin resilience and cellular protection. • References available on request

Sabinsa – www.sabinsa.co.za

Ingredients to nourish the mind

Busy lifestyles, rapid digitalisation and an ageing population have placed cognition at the forefront of health priorities. In line with this trend, a growing body of scientific evidence underscores the vital role of specific nutrients and bioactive compounds in maintaining and enhancing brain function.

According to Savannah Fine Chemicals, the future of wellness lies in supporting the mind as much as the body. The supplier’s portfolio of innovative ingredients empowers brands to create products that meet this growing demand for cognitive health. Sharper thinking, stronger focus, healthier ageing — it all starts with the right ingredients.

BUILDING BLOCKS OF THE BRAIN

Omega-3s, especially DHA, are structural components of neuronal membranes, crucial for healthy brain development and long-term cognitive function.

Extensive research links Omega-3 supplementation to improvements in memory, learning and mood regulation, making it one of the most established and trusted nutrients for brain health.

ENERGY FOR BODY AND BRAIN

Long recognised in sports nutrition for its role in energy metabolism, creatine is now making its mark in brain health.

Research shows it can support memory, processing speed and overall cognitive performance — particularly under conditions of fatigue or high stress.

GUT-BRAIN AXIS INNOVATION

ProbioBrain® is a unique probiotic strain (Lactobacillus plantarum DR7), clinically shown to reduce stress and anxiety while enhancing mood and cognitive performance.

By modulating the gut–brain axis, it offers a holistic approach to mental wellness,

particularly relevant for consumers seeking microbiome-focused solutions.

THE POWER OF POLYPHENOLS

VeriTe ® Resveratrol is a potent polyphenol with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that support cerebral blood flow and synaptic plasticity.

Clinical trials have demonstrated its ability to improve memory and slow markers of cognitive decline, positioning VeriTe ® Resveratrol as a promising nutraceutical for healthy ageing and longterm brain wellness.

A BREAKTHROUGH BOTANICAL

Nutricog ® is a proprietary botanical blend backed by published clinical studies showing significant improvements in working memory, cognitive flexibility and attention span. Its proven efficacy across diverse age groups makes it a nextgeneration nootropic – a natural solution for sharper thinking.

Sharper thinking, stronger focus, healthier ageing — it all starts with the right ingredients

SUSTAINED MENTAL ENERGY

Derived from Alpinia galanga, enXtra® is a clinically validated botanical shown to enhance mental alertness, focus and sustained attention – without the jittery side effects or crash associated with caffeine. Ideal for ‘on-the-go’ formulations, it appeals to consumers seeking safe, natural mental performance boosters.

VITAMINS FOR MENTAL VITALITY

B-complex vitamins – particularly B6, B12 and folate – play a key role in neurotransmitter synthesis and homocysteine regulation, directly influencing cognitive performance and reducing the risk of neurodegeneration.

Vitamin D contributes to mood regulation and neuroprotection, while antioxidant vitamins C and E help counter oxidative stress, a major driver of neuronal decline. Together, these essential nutrients form the cornerstone of effective cognitive wellness formulations.

PARTNERING FOR INNOVATION

The convergence of scientific validation and consumer demand is driving rapid growth in cognitive nutrition.

Savannah Fine Chemicals offers a portfolio of evidence-based ingredients, enabling manufacturers to deliver innovative solutions that meet this expanding market opportunity. •

Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za

New regulatory approval to ease API import challenges

Brenntag South Africa is simplifying the API import burden for pharma manufacturers with its new SAHPRA license.

Pharmaceutical manufacturers in South Africa can now rely on Brenntag South Africa to simplify the complex process of importing active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). With the company’s newly acquired license from the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) to import and distribute scheduled substances, Brenntag South Africa now offers a fully compliant service that manages customs, logistics, warehousing and distribution.

The import of scheduled substances has been a major challenge for many South African pharmaceutical manufacturers to date.

“With our SAHPRA license, we are removing those hurdles,” explains Lindi Diedericks, head of QR & deputy responsible pharmacist for warehousing at Brenntag South Africa.

“Manufacturers can now partner with us to handle the complexities of sourcing, importing and storing APIs, ensuring they remain compliant and can keep their attention on formulation, production and market delivery.”

DID YOU KNOW?

BrenntagSouthAfricaoffersrepacking andblendingasavalue-addedservice. Thistakesplacewithinitsmodernfully HVACcontrolledrepackingandblending facilitylocatedattheBrenntagSAhead office in the Pomona business district inJohannesburg.

NAVIGATING REGULATORY COMPLEXITY

With a global sourcing network, combined with its local infrastructure, Brenntag – a global market leader in chemicals and ingredients distribution – has built its reputation on quality, safety and reliability.

The regulatory approval reinforces Brenntag South Africa’s established presence in the pharmaceutical industry. Having a SAHPRA license positions Brenntag South Africa as a fully compliant and trusted partner for local pharmaceutical manufacturers seeking access to high-quality APIs, which are a critical component in the formulation of safe and effective medicines.

A PARTNERSHIP BEYOND SUPPLY

With the SAHPRA license in place, Brenntag South Africa’s offering now includes:

• Global sourcing of APIs from certified suppliers.

• Full customs clearance and documentation support to meet audit and regulatory requirements.

• State-of-the-art warehousing and reliable distribution to ensure consistent supply and just-in-time delivery.

• Regulatory expertise to safeguard compliance at every step.

At Brenntag, excellence isn’t just a goal, it’s a core value. The newly acquired SAHPRA license is a reflection of Brenntag South Africa’s ongoing investment in quality, safety and customer success in an increasingly regulated environment. It’s a promise to deliver not just products, but partnership.

INVESTED IN THE FUTURE

For pharmaceutical manufacturers looking to streamline their supply chains, Brenntag South Africa is more equipped than ever to deliver.

“By combining global reach with local expertise, we provide customers with confidence and flexibility in a highly regulated market,” says Diedericks. “Our role is to take the complexity out of API imports so that manufacturers can stay focused on innovation and patient care.”

For more information or customer enquiries, send an email to Natalie.MacGregor@brenntag.com. •

Brenntag SA – www.brenntag.com/en-za/ industries/pharma/

Smart sensors to drive manufacturing forward

VEGA’s latest instrumentation technology tackles real-world production challenges in pharma manufacturing, with precision and practicality.

VEGA delivers tailored solutions that address specific manufacturing challenges

The pharmaceutical and life sciences sectors face mounting pressure to deliver consistent quality while meeting increasingly stringent regulations. VEGA addresses these challenges head-on with instrumentation that performs reliably in the toughest manufacturing environments, prioritising safety, user-friendliness and reproducible processes.

MODULAR DESIGN MEETS REAL-WORLD FLEXIBILITY

VEGA’s established plics instrument platform stands out for its modular foundation. This design philosophy gives operators genuine choice – from selecting the right measuring principle to customising configurations and streamlining maintenance schedules.

The result? Continuous availability and rocksolid process reliability, even when dealing with extreme temperatures and pressures that would challenge lesser systems.

COMPACT SOLUTIONS FOR MODERN PRODUCTION NEEDS

Recognising the industry’s shift toward continuous manufacturing and enhanced networking capabilities, VEGA has expanded its portfolio with a new series of compact instruments specifically designed for pharmaceutical applications.

The VEGABAR and VEGAPOINT series deliver straightforward yet powerful solutions for standard applications, proving that effective doesn’t have to mean complicated.

HYGIENE-FIRST ENGINEERING

VEGA’s latest sensors excel in hygienecritical environments – a game-changer for pharmaceutical manufacturers.

These pressure sensors and level switches are built to survive aggressive cleaning and sterilisation cycles while maintaining peak performance. It’s engineering that understands the real-world demands of pharmaceutical production.

STREAMLINED CONNECTIVITY WITH IO-LINK TECHNOLOGY

Enhanced automation and data accessibility take centre stage with VEGA’s integration of IO-Link technology.

This advancement enables seamless communication and faster installations, while sensor replacement becomes a quick, efficient process that minimises downtime and boosts overall productivity.

USER-CENTRIC INNOVATION

VEGA’s focus extends beyond functionality to genuine user experience improvements. The new 360° switching status display enhances visibility, allowing operators to spot and address process deviations quickly – turning potential problems into manageable adjustments. Through strategic collaborations with industry leaders, VEGA delivers tailored solutions that address specific manufacturing challenges. Pharmaceutical companies leveraging its sensor technology achieve more accurate measurements and optimised processes, translating directly into better outcomes.

SUPPORTING TOMORROW’S MANUFACTURING

Today’s pharmaceutical landscape demands instrumentation that can keep pace with changing requirements. VEGA’s approach prioritises the fundamentals –hygiene, reliability, and efficiency – helping manufacturers tackle the complex challenges of drug production and distribution. These solutions streamline operations and strengthen quality control measures, ensuring products meet the highest standards of safety and effectiveness.

VEGA’s practical innovations support pharmaceutical partners in an increasingly competitive market, proving that advanced technology and real-world reliability can work hand in hand. •

VEGA – https://tinyurl.com/PCRVEGAza

Safety, precision and hygiene are top priorities in the complex processes of the pharmaceutical industry. Our level and pressure measurement technology meets these special requirements with ease – and simply makes your work more efficient. Everything is possible. With VEGA.

Flexible filling and capping platform for OTCs

Rotzinger PharmaPack offers a new filling and capping platform for OTC products. Applications include non-aseptic pharmaceuticals as well as solid and liquid products from the cosmetics, personal care and nutraceutical industries.

VarioFill combines the advantages of previously large lines in a compact and modular platform.

“Where manufacturers and contract fillers previously needed new machines for different products and closures, VarioFill now allows for processing everything on a single platform. Applications include non-aseptic pharmaceutical liquids such as eye drops and cough syrup to cosmetics such as creams and face serums to solid dosage forms such as tablets and capsules.

It also accommodates different packaging materials and shapes as well as various closure types in highly variable output quantities,” explains Michael Gensheimer, product manager at Rotzinger PharmaPack.

MODULAR DESIGN WITH A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Among the many advantages of the VarioFill platform is its small footprint.

“In fact, VarioFill is currently the most compact solution of its kind on the market,” Gensheimer underlines.

Thanks to a high degree of automation and exchangeable modules, space savings exceed 50%.

“With VarioFill, modularity is much more than a buzzword; it’s a daily reality,” he adds.

This is particularly beneficial in the case of frequent product changes. The machine base, which is identical for all variants, allows new stations and modules to be installed.

“All you need to do is reconfigure the platform with the appropriate modules, and the line is ready for new requirements at low investment costs.”

GENTLE TRANSPORT AND 100% IPC

Before filling, the containers are fed into the transport system. Different solutions can be integrated and combined as required.

Standing objects such as glass bottles are fed via a belt system, while the pickFeeder developed by Rotzinger sorts plastic bottles and transfers them via delta robots. Since the magnetically driven universal grippers can handle almost any shape, there is no need for pucks or other guiding format parts, which makes transport particularly gentle.

After the cleaning station, the containers are weighed empty using 100% in-process control (IPC). Following filling via seal-less rotary piston pumps or tablet/capsule counters, another IPC is performed. The containers are fitted with snap-on, screw, pump, or crimp closures at several freely configurable closure stations.

A cleaning-in-place (CIP) system ensures fully automatic cleaning of product contact parts in the filling area by automatically moving them to the cleaning position, cleaning them thoroughly, and then returning them to the production position.

VarioFill is currently the most compact solution of its kind on the market

FIRST CUSTOMERS ALREADY CONVINCED

Positive customer feedback shows that Rotzinger PharmaPack’s innovative solution meets the needs of manufacturers and contract fillers in all relevant industries.

“The response from the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and nutraceutical industries has been overwhelming. Even before the official market launch we sold two VarioFill lines. The first one will shortly go into production at the customer's site – and more are set to follow,” says Gensheimer.

Customers are particularly impressed by the modular design.

“This shows that we have successfully implemented our motto ‘configure instead of construct’. Since the VarioFill platform’s design is modular from the outset, our customers can put together an individual solution to suit their production requirements – and modify or expand it at any time with flexibility,” he concludes. •

Rotzinger PharmaPack – variofill.rotzingergroup.com

Automated system eliminates hard water headaches

In a recent installation at a Gauteng-based manufacturer of household and personal care products, Allmech provided a tailored water treatment solution to ensure a consistent supply of soft water for steam generation. This is an essential element in the client’s 24/7 production cycle.

Allmech is a leading South African manufacturer of boilers, a supplier of water treatment components and the sole authorised dealer for Runxin products in southern Africa.

Lukas Makgopa, Allmech water treatment technician, explains that the client, based in Wadeville, Germiston, uses steam in various processes, from drying semi-liquid soap mixtures and setting packaging components to extracting active ingredients from silica-rich plants. To support these operations, Allmech installed a water softener system capable of processing up to 10 000 ℓ of water per hour, powered by the Runxin F135 duplex valve.

“We chose the F135 because it’s a true duplex system using a single valve to control both vessels,” says Makgopa. “What this means is when one vessel is in service, the other is on standby, ready to take over

automatically when regeneration is needed. You don’t have to manually switch or deal with two separate valves.”

SUSTAIN CONTINUOUS OPERATION WHILE MINIMISING RISK

Compared to installing two Runxin F74 valves in parallel, the F135 offers a simplified, spacesaving design and faster installation with fewer components and no need for interlocking signal wiring. It also provides seamless, automatic switching between vessels, ensuring no downtime during regeneration, which is crucial for manufacturers who can’t afford interruptions.

“This client uses a lot of water, and their boiler system needs soft water at all times,” he notes. “If calcium or magnesium enters the boiler, it can form scale on the tubes. That’s like cement building up. It makes heat transfer inefficient, increases fuel consumption and reduces steam output,” Makgopa explains.

By ensuring consistent soft water supply, the Runxin F135 protects the client’s boilers from scaling and reduces the need for reactive maintenance. The unit’s larger internal components also allow it to handle variable water pressures – an issue Makgopa says this site faces frequently, with pressure sometimes spiking from 200kPa to 600kPa.

“The F135 can manage those pressure fluctuations, which is why, in this situation, it works better than smaller valves,” he says. “It is a durable system and it has been performing very well since we installed it.”

Since implementing the new system, hard water issues are no longer a concern

SIMPLER SYSTEM FOR CONSISTENTLY SOFT WATER

In the past, the client’s smaller vessels needed to regenerate multiple times a day. However, the F135 setup now typically requires regeneration just once every 24 hours. This allows time for proper brine saturation, which is an essential factor in achieving effective resin regeneration.

“Since implementing the new system, hard water issues are no longer a concern on site,” Makgopa adds. “We used to get calls often about hard water issues. Now the water quality is consistent, and client’s team only needs to monitor it once or twice a day. Compared to setting up two separate valves and synchronising them, this was much simpler in the long run. Maintenance is also easier. We’ve even set up a WhatsApp group with the client to quickly resolve any issues that pop up, so it’s a very collaborative relationship.” •

Allmech – www.allmech.co.za

Vaseline bottle takes top honours at SAPRO Awards

The SAPRO Awards celebrate circular economy champions in various sectors, with the overall winner emerging from the personal care industry.

The push to increase plastics recycling in South Africa is in full swing. Without end-markets for recycled plastic, there is no point in recycling. Therefore, it is everyone’s responsibility to buy recycled products wherever possible.

To highlight the important work being done in plastics recycling, SAPRO – the industry association for plastic recyclers – hosted its annual Best Recycled Plastic Product Awards on 27 August at the Indaba Hotel in Joburg. Various innovators from the plastics industry and broader society presented their inspirational new products, which use recycled plastics as the material of choice.

INDUSTRY COLLABORATION AND SUPPORT

The gala dinner and awards ceremony was a glittering celebration of individuals and businesses, and their hard work to bring positive change through their recycled plastic products. There were 195 industry and media stakeholders who attended the gala dinner. This year, 31 entries across seven categories showcased the diversity of product ideas using recycled plastic.

The SAPRO Awards would not have been possible without the generous sponsorship from various partners. The organisers thanked the following sponsors for their contributions:

• Platinum Partner: Polyco PRO

• Silver Sponsor: Ewasa PRO

• Category Sponsors: Zerma Africa, Starlinger, Petco PRO and Eco-Smart.

• Supreme Mouldings sponsored frames for prizes

• Spier Wines sponsored wines for the tables and prizes.

PERSONAL CARE EMBRACES

RECYCLED PLASTIC

Overall winner, the Vaseline body lotion bottle is produced by ALPLA Packaging SA for Unilever SA, using 50% rHDPE sourced from Extrupet. The Vaseline bottle is a triple layered construction with rHDPE in the middle layer. According to the judges, this product was seen as a leader in introducing recycled material into personal care product packaging, which is a key growth sector for recycled material inclusion.

A runner up in the packaging category, the 2L foam bath bottle represents a remarkable collaboration between industry leaders that is reshaping South Africa’s approach to sustainable packaging for foam bath products. Produced by Bowler Packaging for Shoprite Checkers using 100% rPET sourced from Extrupet, it not only sets a benchmark but also demonstrates how strategic partnerships can drive meaningful environmental progress whilst maintaining commercial viability.

and Related Products and Construction and Building Sector categories each won a R40 000 marketing voucher respectively, to advertise their product in a media outlet of their choice.

“We are extremely proud of our SAPRO 2025 results which show that our team’s hard work, innovation and dedication is getting noticed. These results are a testament to the strong foundation Extrupet has built over 25 years in operation, highlighting our ongoing commitment to excellence and growth,” says Chandru Wadhwani, joint MD of Extrupet.

RECOGNITION FOR THE INNOVATORS

Winners each received a wine cooler bag from Shwe (Eco-Smart) and a bottle of Spier Creative Block 3. The Creative and Artistic Items category winner received a R10 000 cash prize. The Innovation in Recycled Plastic Products winner was awarded a R15 000 cash prize. The winner I the Household & Leisure Products category won two home hydroponics kits from SFG Technologies, and the winners in the Agriculture

“The SAPRO Awards shine a spotlight on the incredible innovation that is transforming plastic waste into valuable new products,” says Patricia Pillay, CEO of Polyco. “This year’s winners have demonstrated what is possible when design for recycling, technical excellence and market relevance come together. Their work is proof that recycled plastics can compete at the highest levels of quality and functionality, while also helping to tackle the pressing challenge of plastic pollution. Polyco is proud to support these awards, which not only recognise industry leadership but also inspire others to reimagine waste as a resource for a truly circular economy.” •

SAPRO AWARDS 2025 WINNERS AND FINALISTS

Trend tracker reveals paper packaging is SA’s sustainable choice

Paper packaging tops the charts for sustainability and recyclability, says global survey. Consumers appreciate paper-based packaging for its recyclability and lower environmental impact.

Consumers value paper-based packaging for its recyclability, biodegradability or compostability, lower environmental impact, affordability, safety and its ability to display clear product information, according to the South African findings of the 2025 Two Sides Trend Tracker.

The Paper Manufacturers Association of South Africa (PAMSA) says the packaging sector faces intense scrutiny with increasing pressure to reduce plastic waste and cut carbon footprints.

Overall, paper and cardboard emerged as the top choice among consumers who rated packaging materials based on 15 environmental, visual and physical attributes. In second place was glass, followed by plastic and metal that were on equal footing. Glass ranked the highest in reusability, look-and-feel and brand image, with plastic being the easiest to store. Metal packaging outstripped the other materials in terms of its strength and robustness.

In this year’s survey, 64% of people said they prefer products ordered online to arrive in paper packaging, up from 58% in 2023. Additionally, 58% are actively taking steps to increase their use of paper packaging, while 80% expressed a preference for their online orders to be delivered in fit-for-size packaging.

64% of people said they prefer products ordered online to arrive in paper packaging

“We acknowledge right-sizing is not always possible for online retailers. The good thing about cardboard boxes is that they are fully recyclable regardless of their size, and welcomed by informal collectors and recycling companies,” notes Samantha Choles, PAMSA’s communication manager.

THE UNSUNG HERO OF RENEWABILITY

Choles acknowledges that paper packaging may not always fulfil the same function as other materials. However, in today’s world, there is still a place for all packaging materials, provided they are responsibly produced and disposed of responsibly.

Virgin fibre comes from farmed trees grown in responsibly managed and certified plantations.

“These trees are considered renewable resources, with only 7% to 10% of 850 000 trees harvested annually and new trees planted in their place within a year. And all of them are absorbing and storing carbon,” explains Choles.

South African tissue and packaging manufacturers also make use of recycled fibre, recovered from used paper and packaging.

The survey showed that 65% of people maintain that only recycled paper should be used to make paper products.

“The sole use of recycled paper in paper manufacturing is not possible, however,” explains Choles. “Paper fibres can only be recycled around seven times, each time shortening and weakening. Without new wood fibre from trees, the paper cycle cannot be maintained.”

RECYCLING HABITS

Around 28% of respondents believe that more than 60% of paper and paper packaging is

collected for recycling; this is up from 19% in 2023.

“They are certainly correct. Our mills, with the help of informal collectors and recycling businesses, recover about 1.2 million tonnes of paper and paper packaging every year,” says Choles. “It’s good to see that 81% of respondents clearly understand what types of products can be recycled, and this is up from 78% in 2023.”

Furthermore, 69% responded that they recycle their paper-based packaging such as delivery boxes, food packaging and drinking cartons.

RESPONSIBLE CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR

In the context of reducing the consumption of no n-recyclable single-use packaging, most respondents concur that this responsibility should be shared by governments, local authorities, brands, retailers and supermarkets. Notably, approximately 46% acknowledge that they, as consumers, bear the least responsibility in this regard. They express a strong desire for systemic change through the enactment of legislation, coupled with the commitment of brands and industry leadership.

This is backed up with some 66% of South African respondents agreeing that nonrecyclable packaging should be discouraged through taxation, with more than half saying they would consider avoiding using retailers that are not actively trying to reduce their non-recyclable packaging. Go to twosides.info/trend-tracker-2025 for more info on the Two Sides Trend Tracker survey. •

From prejuvenation to protection: High-impact under eye care

The wellness-first approach in skincare is seeing an increased focus on prejuvenation. ANGEL-EYE EFX supports this philosophy and is specifically engineered for the delicate under-eye area where the first signs of

ageing typically appear.

Under-eye skin is 40% thinner than facial skin, making it particularly vulnerable to microcirculation deficiencies that manifest as dark circles, puffiness and premature wrinkling. Poor blood flow in this area reduces nutrient delivery and allows haemoglobin accumulation, creating visible signs of ageing.

ANGEL-EYE EFX from Vantage Specialty Chemicals is a patent-pending active ingredient that specifically targets microcirculation issues through a dual botanical complex. Clinical studies demonstrate measurable improvements, such as:

• 40% increased blood flow

• 23% enhanced hydration

• 5% reduction in crow's feet length.

THE MICROCIRCULATION MECHANISM

The active works through argininemediated nitric oxide pathways to dilate blood vessels whilst simultaneously modulating key protein expressions. In vitro testing shows significant upregulation of barrier-strengthening proteins LCE3B (104%) and Ninjurin-1 (64%), alongside a 25% reduction in VEGFA, which is the protein responsible for vascular permeability and dark circle formation.

This dual action addresses immediate circulation issues and long-term capillary integrity. The Phellinus linteus component provides antioxidant protection through CYGB (28%) and OSXR1 (68%) activation, whilst Angelica polymorpha sinensis enhances nutrient delivery through improved vascular function.

At just 1%, ANGEL-EYE EFX delivers hydration, anti-ageing benefits, oxidative stress protection and circulation enhancement

THE ART OF PREJUVENATION

For years the global beauty industry has long been obsessed with correction, but this is changing with consumers embracing a different philosophy: prejuvenation.

ANGEL-EYE EFX embodies this preventive approach, targeting the delicate under-eye area before damage becomes irreversible.

The magic of ANGEL-EYE EFX happens at a cellular level, where this botanical powerhouse orchestrates a symphony of repair mechanisms. Clinical studies reveal its impressive ability to boost microcirculation by 40%, whilst simultaneously strengthening capillary walls and reducing oxidative stress. Think of it as a personal trainer for your blood vessels, ensuring they remain strong and efficient in delivering nutrients exactly where they're needed most.

SCIENCE THAT SPEAKS VOLUMES

In controlled studies, participants experienced a 23% increase in skin

TOP 3 SKINCARE CONCERNS FOR FEMALE CONSUMERS:

1. 84% – deep lines and wrinkles

2. 83% – dark eye area

3. 83% – under eye bags

Source: Vantage surveyed more than 2 600 female consumers on their concerns and preferences regarding skincare products.

hydration after just 28 days, alongside a notable 5% reduction in crow’s feet length. ANGEL-EYE EFX also works to strengthen the skin barrier.

For formulators, this translates into a remarkably versatile active that addresses multiple concerns simultaneously. At just 1%, ANGEL-EYE EFX delivers hydration, anti-ageing benefits, oxidative stress protection and circulation enhancement – helping to meet consumer demand for multifunctional products.

THE SOUTH AFRICAN OPPORTUNITY

ANGEL-EYE EFX is suitable for various formulation formats, from luxurious eye creams to innovative serum sticks. The beauty of this ingredient goes beyond its impressive clinical results, and it respects the delicate nature of the under-eye area, working with the skin’s natural processes rather than against them.

For brands looking to differentiate themselves in an increasingly crowded marketplace, ANGEL-EYE EFX offers something rare: a genuinely innovative active with heritage and science on its side. It's not just about looking younger – it's about ageing more gracefully, one microcirculation boost at a time. •

Vantage Specialty Chemicals –www.vantagegrp.com

Mineral versus chemical sunscreens: Closing the sensory gap

Today’s consumers demand more than just protection from their sunscreens. They want textures that glide, finishes that flatter, and formulations that feel indulgent – without compromising on efficacy or sustainability. LexFeel ® SunLight MB answers this call, offering a novel dispersing solution that redefines what mineral sunscreens can be.

Mineral sunscreens rely on inorganic compounds like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, physically blocking or reflecting UV rays. While globally compliant and ideal for sensitive skin, they have long been associated with thicker textures and whitening. Chemical sunscreens, by contrast, use organic UV filters that absorb rays, often resulting in lighter, more transparent aesthetics, but sometimes have a greasy afterfeel.

LexFeel ® SunLight MB bridges this divide. It enables mineral formulations that rival the elegance of chemical sunscreens, delivering silky, light, fast-spreading textures with minimal whitening.

A BREAKTHROUGH IN DISPERSING TECHNOLOGY

At the centre of LexFeel ® SunLight MB is an intelligent pairing of heptyl undecylenate and polyhydroxystearic acid, designed to disperse metal oxides with exceptional ease and stability. This combination ensures homogenous particle distribution, reduces viscosity and enables high concentrations of uncoated, non-nano zinc oxide. For formulators, this translates into smoother application, lighter textures and reduced white cast – all challenges traditionally associated with mineral UV filters. Why formulators love it:

• 100% natural and biodegradable

• USDA certified biobased content

• COSMOS and NATRUE approved

• Vegan, halal, kosher and cruelty-free

• Seamless compatibility with uncoated, non-nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

• Flexible for use with emollients, oils and preservatives

• Easy processing – hot or cold.

PERFORMANCE

PROVEN

To highlight its performance, the Fast Flow Sun Fluid SPF 50 formulation was

Figure 1: W/O Formula with LexFeel® SunLight MB and W/O Formula with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Testmethod-15Swipes

Camera:SONYILCE-6100,noflash ChromaMeter:KonicaMinolta,CR-400/410

developed. This water-in-oil sunscreen contains 25% uncoated, non-nano zinc oxide dispersed in LexFeel® SunLight MB.

The innovative formula served as the basis for comparative testing, including sensory evaluation, white cast analysis and rheology

studies. The goal was to demonstrate how the dispersing solution delivers lighter textures, enhanced aesthetics and robust sun protection. Extensive in vitro and in vivo testing highlights the material’s impact.

RESULTS

Less white cast with Fast Flow Sun Fluid SPF50. Similar b* value compared to baseline after 15 swipes. A 59% lower ΔEab* compared to Slow Flow Sun Lotion SPF50. White cast reduction was quantifiable, with up to 59% improvement compared to conventional dispersions.

SUSTAINABLY DESIGNED

Beyond performance, LexFeel ® SunLight MB reflects INOLEX’s commitment to sustainable ingredient design. Derived from castor and RSPO mass balance palm, it is fully biodegradable and produced via energy efficient processes with water as the only byproduct.

The 100% active, anhydrous composition of the UV filter reduces shipping weight and packaging, while recyclable and reusable container options further minimise environmental impact.

SunLight MB,

sunscreens, which are luxurious to apply and light in touch, yet heavy on sun protection.

Whether in lotions, sprays, or daily-wear fluids, this UV filter enables products that meet the needs of discerning, eco-conscious consumers worldwide. Do not just formulate. Formulate smarter. Formulate lighter. Formulate with LexFeel ® SunLight MB. •

FREEDOM TO FORMULATE

LexFeel ® SunLight MB offers a combination of sustainability, sensory elegance and technical performance. It empowers brands to create next-generation mineral

AECI Specialty Chemicals –Nontokozo.Masuku@aeciworld.com, Phineas.Folotsi@aeciworld.com

Coschem conference: Where beauty meets brilliance

The cosmetics industry gathered in Sandton, Johannesburg, on 10 and 11 September for the 2025 Coschem Scientific Conference, united under the theme Boujee Beauty: Intelligent Evolution. The conference offered a glimpse into the future of beauty, where sophistication meets innovation and sustainability drives success.

Coschem president, Marcel van Rooyen of Symrise (South Africa) opened the scientific conference with a powerful message about transformation. The South African beauty market perfectly embodies the global shift toward clean beauty, sustainability, ethical sourcing and inclusivity. With digital platforms, local influencers and e-commerce reshaping consumer engagement and trust, the industry is experiencing its most dynamic period yet.

NATURE’S

ANTI-DANDRUFF

Van Rooyen emphasised how South Africa’s diversity and individuality mirror global consumer preferences, positioning the country as a testing ground and trendsetter for beauty innovation.

The two-day scientific conference programme delivered in line with industry’s needs, focusing on cutting-edge science, practical solutions and a roadmap for sustainable growth. At the end of day one, Coschem hosted an industry mixer networking and cocktail event, which was a great success.

The two-day conference programme delivered in line with industry’s needs

SESSION 1: REVOLUTIONARY FOUNDATIONS

SOLUTION

Frederic Serres of Givaudan Active Beauty (France) introduced delegates to Crocus sativus – a game-changing anti-dandruff active derived from saffron petals through green fractionation technology. This botanical powerhouse represents a natural and sustainable revolution in dandruff care, addressing root causes and symptoms of this concern.

The unique molecule works by inhibiting Malassezia growth, reducing inflammation, soothing itching, and restoring scalp barrier function.

It’s a perfect example of how nature and technology can work in harmony to create effective, environmentally responsible solutions that meet growing consumer demand for clean beauty products.

AI MEETS HAIR SCIENCE

Lumbidzani Moyo of L’Oréal Research & Innovation (South Africa) delivered fascinating insights into advancing curl knowledge through artificial intelligence approaches. Her team’s breakthrough methodology employs SR-microtomography and AI reconstruction to analyse entire hair swatches rather than individual fibres – a revolutionary approach that provides unprecedented insights into curl behaviour.

The study revealed that tighter curl patterns have lower hair density, broader curvature radii, and higher fibre entanglement, which significantly impact curl definition and space occupation.

These findings are revolutionising how the industry understands and develops

products for textured hair, moving beyond one-size-fits-all approaches to truly customised care.

BIOTECH HAIR REVOLUTION

Lumbidzani Moyo of L’Oréal Research & Innovation (South Africa) delivered fascinating insights into advancing curl Lesego Malepe of Croda South Africa unveiled their biotech-powered biomimetic bond builder – essentially delivering a vegan keratin recharge at the molecular level to elevate hair strength beyond traditional repair methods.

SESSION 2: CULTURAL WISDOM MEETS MODERN SCIENCE

BRIDGING GLOBAL SKINCARE PHILOSOPHY

James Seguerra of Nikko Chemicals (Japan) presented a compelling case for bridging Eastern and Western skincare approaches, exploring holistic strategies from Japan, Korea and China – regions renowned for their longterm, preventative skincare philosophies.

Rather than focusing on short-term symptom relief, these approaches prioritise

maintaining skin barrier health and overall well-being.

PROACTIVE AGEING SOLUTIONS

Viviana Sanchez of dsm-firmenich (Dubai/ United Arab Emirates) addressed the crucial industry shift from reactive anti-aging to proactive skin health strategies. Her presentation centred on collagen, which constitutes around 80% of skin structure

This innovative solution bonds directly to hair keratin within the cortex, making hair 100% stronger than leading commercial bond builders. and is key to elasticity and firmness. The sobering reality is that collagen production begins declining in our mid-20s by roughly 1% per year, accelerating post-40 and leading to visible signs of ageing.

dsm-firmenich’s response is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5. At just 1% concentration, it mimics natural skin signalling to stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkle depth, refine pores, improve texture, and firm and

contour skin. Clinically proven to show results within four weeks, it is said to be the first TGF- β boosting peptide on the market.

SENSITIVE

SKIN IN THE MODERN WORLD

Shannon Attwell of Symrise (South Africa) introduced a 100% natural active complex designed specifically for sensitive skin affected by modern environmental stressors

including pollution, UV rays, and blue light. The biotechnology-derived ingredient blends fermented bisabolol with organic ginger root extract, offering immediate and long-term relief.

GREEN SCIENCES MOVEMENT

William Mokone of L’Oréal Research & Innovation (South Africa) painted an inspiring

vision of beauty’s sustainable future through green sciences – a science-led movement combining biology, green chemistry, and nature-inspired technologies to develop bio-based, biodegradable, highperformance ingredients.

Core processes include biotechnology fermentation, green extraction and sustainable formulation design.

SESSION 3: INNOVATION IN ACTION

AI AND FORMULATION BREAKTHROUGHS

Juan Cebrian of Lubrizol (Spain) focused on the use of polymeric to overcome the skin irritation and barrier disruption associated with traditional options. A key innovation in this area is the natural-derived undecylenoyl xanthan gum, which offers robust oil-in-water emulsion stabilisation, exceptional sensory benefits and versatile textural properties across a wide range of cosmetic formulations.

Ayesha Jakoet of Symrise (South Africa) showcased natural polymeric emulsifiers that enable clean, high-performance formulations without compromising on efficacy. These innovations represent a significant breakthrough in sustainable cosmetics development, proving that natural doesn’t mean less effective.

Simultaneously, Hein Venter of Anatech Instruments (South Africa) demonstrated how AI-powered microbiological testing is revolutionising cosmetics production and quality control. His presentation on AI-driven approaches to microbiology

highlighted how technology is streamlining processes whilst improving safety and consistency.

INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INSIGHTS

Mantombi Makhubela of Sasekile Cosmetics (South Africa) brought crucial perspectives on inclusive beauty, particularly addressing the unique needs of people of colour. As a prominent South African “skinfluencer,” this interview session provided insight into creating products that truly serve diverse consumers, highlighting how the industry must move beyond tokenism to genuine inclusion.

The discussion emphasised the importance of understanding diverse skin needs, formulating for different undertones and sensitivities, and ensuring that beauty innovation benefits everyone rather than just the traditionally served demographics.

SOUTH AFRICAN BOTANICAL TREASURES

Namrita Lall of the University of Pretoria (South Africa) focused on

South Africa’s rich biodiversity, which is proving a fertile ground for innovative cosmetic ingredient discovery, with Heteropyxis natalensis (lavender tree) emerging as a promising candidate for oral healthcare formulations.

Scientific studies confirm its significant antimicrobial activity against key oral pathogens, alongside anti-inflammatory properties, a demonstrated safety profile and the ability to disrupt bacterial adhesion.

ADVANCED SKINCARE SOLUTIONS

Nasreen Matthews of L’Oréal Research & Innovation (South Africa) presented fascinating research on ceramidetargeted solutions for skin tightness and comfort.

Her work demonstrated how understanding skin barrier function at the molecular level enables the development of more effective, targeted treatments that address specific consumer concerns.

SESSIONS 4 TO 6: ADVANCED SCIENCE AND SUSTAINABILITY

POLLUTION PROTECTION INNOVATION

Jacques Strydom of Evonik (South Africa) presented compelling research on ceramidebased lamellar emulsions specifically designed to mitigate pollution-induced skin damage. He demonstrated how advanced formulation science can address real-world environmental challenges that urban consumers face daily.

The research showed how these specialised emulsions create protective barriers whilst simultaneously repairing existing damage, representing a proactive approach to urban skincare challenges.

ELECTROGENIC SKIN

BACTERIA

In a second presentation by Juan Cebrian, he explored the innovative use of the skin microbiome’s bioelectricity – particularly from electrogenic bacteria like Staphylococcus

epidermidis – to combat oxidative stress and promote skin health. This discussion was centred on a novel biotechnological ingredient, Lactobacillus ferment (a postbiotic from fermented beets), developed to enhance the growth and activity of the electrogenic skin bacteria.

PLANT-BASED RESEARCH EXCELLENCE

Alexander Paulsen of the University of Pretoria (South Africa) shared research on South African bryophytes for anti-acne applications. He revealed how indigenous moss species contain compounds with significant therapeutic potential.

Marizé Cuyler of the University of Pretoria (South Africa) presented on the potential effect of Juncus lomatophyllus spreng and its isolated compound in treating eczema-

associated symptoms. Cuyler focused on the anti-inflammatory and skin barrierrestorative properties of the compound.

In a second presentation by Frederic Serres, he introduced Laminaria hyperborea extract and the novel concept of ‘porphyr’ageing’. This presentation explained how the marine ingredient targets skin ageing by inhibiting porphyrins produced by the skin’s microbiota, reducing melanogenesis and boosting extracellular matrix synthesis.

HYBRID INNOVATION SOLUTIONS

Björn Heuer of H&R (Germany) presented hybrid natural-synthetic emollients that deliver high performance whilst maintaining sustainability credentials. These innovative materials prove that the industry doesn’t

need to choose between efficacy and ethics – advanced chemistry can deliver both.

The sustainable emollients demonstrated superior performance characteristics whilst maintaining clean profiles, representing the future of ingredient innovation where sustainability enhances rather than compromises performance.

ETHNIC HAIR CARE REINVENTED

In the final session, Chloe De Doncker of Natura-Tec (France) presented a phytosterol complex derived through marine biotechnology, offering luxurious sensoriality for formulations in ethnic hair care. This active strengthens fragile hair fibres, supports colour retention and preserves hair integrity.

AN INDUSTRY IN TRANSFORMATION

The conference programme ended with a lively panel discussion on crucial industry challenges around regulatory frameworks, tariffs, and bioprospecting practices in South Africa.

Featuring local industry professionals René Bouwer of Standard Beauty, Mike Capon of Sensetek, Elizna Hurter of SkinChem, Percy Sibanda, David Stockenstrom of Natchem, and Jacques Strydom, these conversations lead by Beverley Gardner of Skyem (South Africa), highlighted the complex balance between protecting intellectual property, enabling innovation, ensuring fair trade, and respecting indigenous knowledge.

The discussions emphasised the need for collaborative approaches that support local communities and international businesses, ensuring that South Africa’s botanical wealth benefits all stakeholders whilst maintaining sustainable harvesting practices.

The 2025 Coschem Scientific Conference proved that the beauty industry’s evolution is far from superficial. The presentations demonstrated an industry in intelligent transformation, where every innovation serves multiple purposes: efficacy, sustainability, inclusivity, and responsibility. •

Coschem Scientific Conference highlights

Industry mixer highlights