Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas International Strategy Advisor +1 212 940 1293 pboutros@phillips.com
DOUG ESCRIBANO Senior International Specialist
+1 212 940 1382 describano@phillips.com
ISABELLA PROIA
Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist +1 212 940 1285 iproia@phillips.com
JACLYN LI Consultant +1 617 697 5030 jli@phillips.com
LONDON
CHRISTOPHER YOUÉ
Global Sales Director, Perpetual +44 7778 143 563 cyoue@phillips.com
THAILAND
CHINA
WELCOME
By Alexandre Ghotbi & Tiffany To
Ten years. Nineteen thematic auctions.
Our first decade has been nothing short of extraordinary.
Over the years, our thematic sales have taken many forms—dedicated to a brand (F.P. Journe: Concours de Complexité, Rolex Milestones), a model (Royal Oak, Daytona Ultimatum), or even an era (Retrospective 2000-2020, Reloaded 1980-1999). In every instance, our goal has remained constant: to bring together the very best timepieces, presented with scholarship, passion, and a unique Phillips perspective.
With Decade One (2015–2025), we pay tribute to that journey by creating a thematic auction about our very own thematic auctions—a celebration of the past decade and the extraordinary watches that defined it.
Each piece featured here has earned its place through its technical mastery, design brilliance, historical significance, or cultural relevance. Together, they span nearly two centuries of horology, from 19th-century marine chronometers to the avant-garde creations of today’s leading independent watchmakers.
As the curtain falls on 2025, this sale is not only a reflection of Phillips’ first decade in watches, but also a celebration of the art of watchmaking itself—of the maisons and independent voices who shape it, and above all, of the collectors whose trust and passion have made this journey possible.
ALEXANDRE GHOTBI
Deputy Chairman, Watches Head of Watches Europe and Middle East
TIFFANY TO Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist
DECADE ONE 2015–2025
SESSION 1
8 NOVEMBER 2025, 2PM LOTS 1–106
OTSUKA LOTEC — A very intriguing and rare stainless steel wristwatch with satellite hours display, warranty and presentation box
Jiro Katayama, the founder of the brand Ōtsuka Lōtec, has cultivated a considerable following among discerning collectors. Though distributed solely in Japan, Ōtsuka Lōtec has earned global recognition for its distinctive, steampunk-inspired creations.
Following the success of Ōtsuka Lōtec’s Phillips debut in last year’s TOKI auction, we are thrilled to present the first “No. 5 Kai” at auction. The Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 5 Kai is Katayama’s latest creation, and it stands apart from nearly every perspective. Viewed head-on, it features a wandering hours display; from the side, it reveals an ultra-thin stainless-steel case topped with a dramatically thick box-style sapphire crystal. True to Ōtsuka Lōtec’s aesthetic, the finishing combines visible brushing, media-blasting, and a muted, low-contrast palette punctuated by sharp angles and protruding forms. The crown at 4 o’clock perfectly exemplifies this brutal industrial design: the caseband is recessed to make space for the pronounced crown tube, which flares into a large, aggressively knurled knob.
At the time of launch, it was exclusively available in Japan via an online lottery system hosted on the brand’s website.
SIMON BRETTE — An extremely elusive and superlatively crafted titanium wristwatch with certificate and presentation box, part of a limited edition of 99 pieces
Simon Brette is undoubtedly one of the hottest and most spoken about newcomers on the market with his first watch –Chronomètre Artisans- launched in 2023 for which he won the acclaimed horological revelation at the GPHG the same year. Not a watchmaker but a movement constructor, Brette started his career working for movement developer Chronode (of Jean-François Mojon fame) and moving on to MCT and MB&F.
In 2021 he decided that it was time to start his own brand with a watch made to the highest degree and work with all the artisans who work in the shadows of the watchmaking industry, who would be in charge of individual tasks such as engraving, polishing, angling etc….
The Chronomètre Artisans was born first as a 12 piece subscription set in zirconium followed by a “regular” production piece in titanium that Brette has said will not exceed 60 pieces, needless to say the latter sold out literally within minutes. The watch features all the elements that collectors have come to dearly covet, a 39mm case and a jaw dropping movement finish with highly polished and brushed surfaces and angles, wolf teeth gears, polished edges of the gears’ spokes and inner rims, the pinions, and even the chatons have been angled and hand-finish, even the screws are concaved with black mirror polished! The dial, engraved by Yasmina Anti, is a work of art unto itself.
In absolutely impeccable condition and complete with its full set of accessories, the present Chronomètre Artisans represent for some collectors the ultimate echelon when it comes to independent time-only wristwatches. Philips is honored we have been entrusted with this superb timepiece.
Chronomètre Artisans
MB&F — A striking and technically impressive titanium wristwatch with suspended balance, date, and power reserve indicator, accompanied by guarantee and presentation box
In 2011, MB&F introduced the now-iconic Legacy Machine collection—a bold shift from the brand’s futuristic Horological Machines. Inspired by the charm of 19th-century pocket watches, the first model, LM1, featured MB&F’s first round case, a dramatically domed sapphire crystal, dual time zones, and the signature flying balance wheel suspended by twin arches— blending tradition with innovation.
The present Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO builds on that foundation, retaining the signature suspended balance wheel of its predecessor but adding a sportier, more robust edge It features a lightweight titanium case with a screw-down crown, quick-set date, and a FlexRing shock absorption system between the case and movement. Powered by a movement developed by Stephen McDonnell, it’s designed with daily wear in mind—mechanically refined, yet adventure-ready.
Fitted with an ice blue dial and housed in a grey brushed titanium case, this example comes complete with its international guarantee and presentation box. Delivered in 2023 and preserved in excellent condition, it’s a striking and wearable take on one of MB&F’s most celebrated designs.
DANIEL ROTH — An exquisite, inventive and unusual yellow gold double dial wristwatch with tourbillon regulator, power reserve indication, date and guilloché dials
Manufacturer DanielRoth Year Circa1995
Reference No. C187
Movement No. 117
Model Name TourbillonDoubleFace
Material 18kyellowgold
Calibre Manual,19jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18kyellowgoldGilbertGaschenpinbuckle
Dimensions 38mmlengthand35mmwidth
Signed Dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
60,000–120,000
$75,100–150,000
€64,200–128,000
Considered to be one of the most remarkable contemporary watchmakers, Daniel Roth trained in his early career with high-end brands like Audemars Piguet and played a crucial role in the revival of Breguet. Offering his creative take on traditional Breguetinspired watches, of which this piece is an enduring testament, he designed his double-faced Tourbillon, reference C187, in 1988 and released it the following year as a way to announce his independence and the creation of his eponymous brand.
Upon launch of his brand, Roth immediately established his personal design language, the most obvious being the unusual ellipsocurvex shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with guilloché patterns, all elements you can find in the present white gold Regulateur Tourbillion. The Daniel Roth reference C187 is probably one of the watchmaker’s better-known creations. On the front side, taking center stage, is the large tourbillon escapement with an original triple arm seconds hand featuring three hands of different lengths that indicate the seconds on three different seconds registers, each calibrated for 20 seconds. The caseback features a retrograde power reserve and date indications.
DANIEL ROTH
Ref. C187 Tourbillon Double Face
F.P. JOURNE — A coveted and extraordinary titanium and pink gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, ruthenium dial, certificate and presentation box, number 89 of a limited edition of 99 pieces, made exclusively for the 5th anniversary of the F. P. Journe Boutique Tokyo
Created to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Tokyo boutique, this extraordinary limited series pays homage to the Maison’s most devoted clientele.
The Anniversary Timepieces Edition exemplifies this ethos, celebrating the enduring bond between the brand and its patrons. The Octa Perpétuelle Tokyo Anniversary Edition is a triumph of modern haute horlogerie, encased in polished titanium with pink gold pushers radiates a refined, contemporary elegance. Its ruthenium-coated gold dial provides a bold yet sophisticated contrast. This perpetual calendar movement is a technical masterpiece, featuring a retrograde date display, apertures for the day and month, and a leap-year indicator seamlessly integrated into February. The mechanism transitions effortlessly between months of varying lengths—28, 29, 30, or 31 days—automatically accounting for leap years with remarkable precision. A standout feature is the safety pusher at 8 o’clock, designed for the annual adjustment of the months during the initial setup. Ingeniously conceived, this mechanism prevents accidental activation, ensuring intuitive operation without the need for specialized abilities
The Naissance d’une Montre (Birth of a Watch) project was born under the aegis of the Time Aeon foundation established in 2005 by Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter and Kari Voutilainen to support, preserve and transmit the dying art of traditional watchmaking techniques.
Phillips is delighted to offer the third installment...a unique piece none the less. The first Naissance d’Une Montre was a collaboration between Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour and Michel Boulanger, the second was a collaboration between Greubel Forsey, Urwerk, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey. The present Naissance d’Une Montre 3 is fully developed, created and assembled by the teams at Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard.
The Time Aeon Foundation’s primary rule for creating the Naissance d’Une Montre is that the latter be uniquely made by hand and using traditional tools. Over 80 members of the teams at Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard participated in the project, from engineers and watchmakers finding solutions to craft a watch by hand as well as referencing and documenting the process.
For the first time Ferdinand Berthoud opened the dial allowing a view on a highly architectural movement Offset, between 1 and 2 o’clock, the hours and minutes are displayed on an openworked counter, revealing the essential components of the calibre: the barrel and fusée connected by a chain; the split bimetallic Guillaume balance; a circular balance bridge supporting the shock absorber featuring two diamond endstones, one on the front and one on the back of the movement, like those of Berthoud’s Astronomical Watch No. 3; as well as a 50-hour power reserve indicator engraved on the mainplate.
The watch also features a bimetallic Guillaume-type thermocompensated split balance made of Invar and brass material. It is equipped with four gold adjustment screws (for regulating the rate), two nickel silver adjustment weights on the split rim (for regulating thermal compensation) and two fixed weights ensuring the inertia of the balance.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD
Naissance d’Une Montre 3
FERDINAND BERTHOUD — A unique handmade stainless steel wristwatch with constant force fusée-chain mechanism, bi-metallic Guillaume balance, with proceeds going to charity
A bimetallic balance maintains the oscillation frequency by compensating for the effects of temperature.
Having taken close to 6 years to develop the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 is a true horological feat in as much the technical prowess but also the attention to detail, the movement features 747 components with 477 of them in the chain alone all created individually. Just cutting and polishing the pinions is a day’s work and finishing a wheel takes 3 days! Despite its simple geometry the main plate features 126 sinks of 8 different diameter.
A superb feat of horological prowess with 11,000 hours of manual labor necessary to make, the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 will be made in 10 pieces in gold at a rate of two per year starting 2026.
The present 11th example is unique as it will be the only one made in stainless steel. In fact the 10 pieces of the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 are already spoken for making the present example the first one delivered but the last one available!
Part of the proceeds of the sale including Phillips’s buyer premium will be donated to charities and organisations dedicated to preserving watchmaking expertise of future generations.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD
Naissance d’Une Montre 3
TheLouisBerthoudMarineChronometerN°52isnotonly a technicalmarvelofitstimebutalsoatimepiecethatwasinthe ownershipofsomeofthemostimpactfulfiguresoftheNapoleonic era.LouisBerthoud,whilstborninSwitzerlandmovedtoParisatage 15toworkwithhisesteemeduncleFerdinandBerthoud.Hetook overthemanagementofhisuncle’sworkshopinParisin1784.
Berthoud’sN°52wassoldin1801tothePremierConsul(Napoleon BonapartebeforehewascrownedEmperor)tobegiftedto ViceAdmiralDecrèsshortlyafterinrecognitionofhisbravery incommandingtheFrenchboatGuillaumeTellasconfirmedby theinscriptiononthecase: “Given by the First Consul to Vice Admiral Decrès to mark the glorious combat he undertook with the Guillaume Tell against superior English Forces - Decree 11 Ventose IX : 2nd March 1801”.
LOUIS BERTHOUD — An incredibly rare and historically important Napoleonian silver cased marine chronometer with lever escapement and conical balance spring
In 1800 Vice Admiral Decrès was promoted to Admiral and in October 1801 was appointed Minister of the Navy, a position which he held until his tragic death at the hand of his valet in 1820, aged fifty-eight. Later the Guillaume Tell was recommissioned into the British Fleet and, in view of the location of her final distinguished action under the French flag, was aptly renamed H.M.S. Malta.
The inside of the dust cap carries the following inscription which continues the history of the chronometer. It reads “Given by the Duc Decrès, Minister of the Marine, to the Frigate Captain Ponée to commemorate his gallantry onboard the Frigate Nereide during the campaign of 1811 March 1812’”
This later inscription records the action between the three French frigates, Renommée, Clorinde and Nereide, and the three British frigates, H.M.S. Phoebe, H.M.S. Galatea and H.M.S. Racehorse.
The engagement took place in May 1811 off the Isle de France (Mauritius). The Nereide was heavily engaged by H.M.S. Phoebe but with very heavy casualties, including her commanding officer, she refused to strike her colours. Instead Lieutenant Francois Ponée, now in command, negotiated her honourable surrender to the British at Tamatave, Madagascar, on Sunday 26 May. The Nereide was subsequently recommissioned into the British Fleet and renamed H.M.S. Madagascar.
Berthoud like many of his peers had been testing the lever escapement but met challenges regulating the movements and more often than not replaced the lever escapement by a pivoted detent escapement. N° 52 seems to have been an exception as from the start Berthout was very happy with its lever escapement writing in his notebook “This watch with a lever escapement, was sold in Floréal of the year IX in order to be given by the First Consul to Vice-Admirai Décrès. I considered it as one of my best watches, and since the month of Brumaire year X (November 1804) when it was returned to me for examination, have often been astonished by its regularity”.
The present piece is the only known surviving Louis Berthoud timepiece with its original lever escapement.
LOUIS
URBAN JÜRGENSEN — A sublime, extremely elegant and highly collectible platinum perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with power reserve indication, moonphases, certificate and presentation box
URBAN JÜRGENSEN — A set of three escapements in gilt brass with double-wheel duplex escapement, Arnold spring detent escapement and Earnshaw spring detent escapement
The present set of three escapements was made by Jürgensen’s workshop apprentices in the mid 19th Century. Each functioning escapement is housed in a glass and gilt brass vitrine atop a fine wooden base.
The double-wheel chronometer escapement model is inscribed: “Opfinden af Urban Jürgensen 1821 - denne Model udfört af hans Sönner 1841” (invented by Urban Jürgensen 1821 - this model executed by his sons 1841). Jürgensen’s double-wheel chronometer escapement features a double escapement wheel. With this design, he wanted to make it easier for the oscillating system to trigger the gear train and to increase the energy supply from the escape wheel to the oscillating system.
A spring detent escapement according to Arnold with helical spring. Arnold’s escapement had the particularity of combining detachment, minimal friction and direct impulse. Finally,aspring detentescapementaccordingtoThomasEarnshaw,withhelical spring.Earnshaw’sescapementwasasimplificationofArnold’s designmakingitlesscostlyandeasiertoproduce.
URBAN
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — A fine and attractive pink gold flyback chronograph wristwatch with oversized date display, power reserve indication, guarantee and presentation box
While the first generation was later produced in other case metals and dial variations, the original platinum and black dial combination is the version that captured the imagination of the watch world when it debuted. In 2012, the Datograph evolved into its second generation with two references: the platinum ref. 405.035 and the pink gold ref. 405.031, like the present example. Key updates included a larger 41mm case, baton indexes in place of Roman numerals, and the welcome addition of a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock, marked “AUF” and “AB.”
At its heart beats the in-house calibre L951.6, offering 60 hours of power reserve, a free-sprung balance with overcoil, and the kind of lavish hand-finishing that defines A. Lange & Söhne. Visible through the sapphire caseback, every bridge, lever, and wheel is a testament to Saxon watchmaking artistry. With demand for Lange’s finest creations stronger than ever, the Datograph has secured its place as one of the most important and collectible modern chronographs.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An exceptional and lavish yellow gold and enamel hunter cased watch with jump seconds
In March 1917, Emperor Karl appointed Arz Chief of the General Staff, a position he held through the final months of the Empire. Promoted to Colonel General (Generaloberst) in 1918, he was decorated with the Military Order of Maria Theresa and Germany’s Pour le Mérite, two of the highest military honors of the era. Though he bore the heavy responsibility of Austria-Hungary’s ultimate defeat, Arz remained a respected figure and published candid memoirs in the 1920s. He died in Budapest in 1935 and was buried with full military honors.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An exceptional and lavish yellow gold and enamel hunter cased watch with jump seconds
Manufacturer A.Lange&Söhne Year 1912
Movement No. 61414
Case No. 61414
Material 18kyellowgoldandenamel
Calibre Manual
Dimensions 55mmdiameter
Signed Dialandmovementsigned
and craftsmanship of the case. This sumptuous hunter case watch presents a lavishly engraved case, richly decorated with chased foliate motifs and animal masks in relief (a fox head at 12 o’clock and a dog head at 6 o’clock). Both outer covers are exquisitely adorned with finely detailed enamel miniatures, each scene portraying the romanticized iconography of the hunt: one side depicting a proud stag against a mountainous backdrop, the other a bird perched amidst birchwood forest. Opening the inner cuvette reveals yet another masterwork of enamel painting, a dynamic vignette of a stag confronted by a hunting hound within a densely wooded landscape. The vibrancy of color, precision of detail, and depth achieved attest to the hand of a highly skilled enameler.
An exceptional piece of technical and artistic prowess the present hunter case pocket watch from 1912 features A. Lange & Söhne’s patented dead beat seconds (DR No. 182/3.08.1877).
However, for once in an A. Lange & Söhne timepiece the show stopper is not the mechanism but rather the exceptional artistry
Celebrated not only as instruments of timekeeping but also as canvases for miniature painting, such hunting watches were prized by aristocratic sportsmen and collectors alike. This example, with its superb preservation, fully executed enamel scenes, and rich chased gold casework, represents a tour-de-force of the genre, uniting mechanical ingenuity with the artistry of the enameller and engraver in equal measure. Amongst all jumping seconds made by the brand the present is the only one cased in such lavish livery.
As indicated in the A. Lange & Söhne Certificate the present pocket watch was sold to Albert Arz in Hungary. Albert Arz von Straußenburg (1857–1935) was one of the most prominent AustroHungarian officers of the First World War and the final Chief of the General Staff of the Imperial Army.
WATCHES FROM THE ERNST SCHUSTER COLLECTION
What a gifted collector. What a subtle connoisseur. And what a remarkable man – always, at his core, modest. I’m speaking of Ernst Schuster, born in Würzburg in 1946, a self-made man who left his parents’ farm at 19 to start a new life in Munich, and from there, went on to conquer the world. He was also a passionate racing driver, taking his own Ferraris and Porsches to circuits such as Goodwood, Le Mans, and the Targa Florio.
I speak from experience. first met Ernst Schuster about 40 years ago in the Bavarian capital. At the time, we were both collectors of mechanical wristwatches – namely those by Patek Philippe and Rolex. Even then, those names carried a special allure and set the pulse racing. Looking back, you can only say: he chose wisely. Like me, Ernst turned to watches in the 1960s. He had grown up with them. As a six-year-old, he was entrusted with wearing his brothers’ watches on his wrist when they didn’t want to take them to work.His defining moment as a collector came in the 1970s, the decade of the Quartz Revolution, when traditional tickers were being pushed aside. Only diehards like Ernst – and a few others, myself included – believed in a future for mechanical wristwatches. We weren’t thinking about future value. We bought on instinct, because the watches delighted us. From the very start, Ernst had an unerring eye for pieces others overlooked – and the courage to acquire them on a large scale.
Ernst also foresaw the special appeal of Rolex’s stainless-steel sports watches, including the Daytona with the then-obscure “Paul Newman” nickname. He bought whatever the market offered, and as much as he could.
The third great name in his collecting world was Cartier. Here, friendships with fellow connoisseurs, sadly both taken too soon – Eric Nussbaum and Hans Nadelhoffer – played a role. Ernst recognized the magic of design icons such as the Tank and of horological treasures like the famous Mystery Clocks, one of which his friend Gunter Sachs acquired. In this area, as in automobile racing, Ernst was always at least a step ahead – of his time, and of many of his peers. The same was true of fine art. For Ernst, it stood on the same level as watches and cars. That alone explains how Keith Haring, casually and free of charge, adorned the caseback of one of only four stainless-steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518s – a chronograph with perpetual calendar – with a spur-of-the-moment drawing. Ernst later sold the piece for 1.9 million dollars. Today, of course, it would bring many times more.
When asked if he regrets the sale, the 79-year-old answers bluntly: “Yes – just as I regret every watch I’ve ever let pass into someone else’s hands. But that’s life.” Now, more hand-picked examples from Ernst Schuster’s wide-ranging collection are coming to auction at Phillips. Why is he parting with them? My long-time friend reveals with disarming candor – and a mischievous wink: “I am old, in poor health, and I need the money for my care.” Quite simply, there’s no better opportunity to acquire outstanding collector’s watches with authentic stories and renowned provenance.
The Patek Philippe reference 3796 was in production from 1982 to 1999. As hinted by the reference number, it is the most direct descendant of the hallowed reference 96, the first and original Calatrava from the 1930s. It shares the same case architecture: 31mm in diameter, flat bezel, simple Bauhaus-inspired design. The present is an example of pink gold production. As the use of pink gold was particularly popular in the 1920s, this configuration accentuates the vintage classic aesthetics of the timepiece.
The virtually mint pink gold case is a fantastic complement to the off-white/ivory dial. Together with the pink gold dauphine hands and pink gold applied baton hour markers on top, a sense of depth is added to layout and the overall design emanates supreme elegance. The present watch is powered by the caliber 215, a successor introduced in 1974 to the calibre 12-120 and a staple movement in the Calatrava collection.
The platinum sibling to the pink gold version, lot 12, the present ref 3796 exudes unparalleled icy elegance. The luster of the white gold is felt even with the conservative case dimensions and its cool sheen, rather than clashing, constructively contrasts with the warmer ivory tone of the dial.
This is an uncommon occasion for the dedicated collector to make his or her own in one day the coldest and the warmest iterations of one of the most classy, elegant and refined modern Calatravas.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An exquisite and highly distinguished pink gold wristwatch with box
PATEK PHILIPPE — A delightful, incredibly
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely sought-after, early and scarce yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, glazed back, “First Series” dial, large hallmarks to the side of the lugs and certificate and box
First series (1986 – 1988) – Features a solid snap back case for ref. 3970 and snap on sapphire caseback for ref. 3971, feuille hands and rectangular indexes. Only produced in yellow gold with an estimated 100 examples produced.
Second series (1987 – 1990) – Features a solid screw back case “E – Etanche”, feuille hands and baton indexes. Hallmarks on the side of the lugs. Produced in all four case materials with an estimated 650 examples produced across all metals. Ref 3971 contunued up to the second series (the present example)
Collectors of vintage Patek Philippe chronographs are most familiar with the firm’s landmark references: 130, 533, 591, 1463, 530, and 1579. The latter takes a somewhat unique position in this family, as it is the only model featuring fanciful lugs in the shape of briolette diamonds. Thanks to these unusual, faceted lugs, the reference 1579 is also referred to as the “spider” lug chronograph and features one of the most impressive case designs from the mid-20th century.
Released in 1943 at Basel and in production until 1964, the 36mm-diameter Wenger case with faceted downturned lugs and rectangular chronograph buttons has an unconventional look that remains sophisticated with an elegant appeal. The Valjoux ébauche was finished to the highest standards at Patek Philippe’s workshop and today is known as the caliber 13’’’, one of the finest manualwind chronograph movements of its era.
The model’s 36 millimeter case diameter is particularly large for the period, lending the watch an incredibly modern appearance today boosted by the unusual lugs’ construction: a true timeless icon as wearable today as it was when the watch was designed.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1579 “Spider Lugs”, “Anse a Ragno”
One of the most elusive Patek Philippe models, ref. 559 was in production during the 1920s and 1930s and features a good measure of the whimsy which permeated watch designs - and society in general - during the Roaring Twenties. The case, most notably, features unusual hooded lugs with a very slight hinging that allow the watch to better “hug” the wrist. It is interesting to point out how the model, possibly because originally intended for male’s wrists, does not feature the curves and floral motif typical of the Art Deco, rather veering toward a much more geometric design, anticipating by decades a trend which will fully blossom in the 1960s/1970s.
Hardly ever seen in an auction room, so far only 9 other pieces were known: 4 in yellow gold, 3 in pink gold, 1 in steel, and 1 in white and rose gold. The discovery of this previously unknown example marks the appearance of the tenth example.
Reference 1544 is one of the most rare and unusual - both in terms of design and also of intended usage - made by Patek Philippe. It was intended to be provided as “backup” to clients who would consign their watch for service. It would be then given back to Patek once the job was done. This stemmed its Italian nickname “Muletto”, borrowed from the automotive world (“muletto” means “forklift” in Italian, and it is used by racing teams as nickname of a back-up car - mockingly and hyperbolically implying it to be less performing, such as indeed a forklift). It is interesting to point out how Patek Philippe decided to still don an engraved/enameled dial even to this most utilitarian timepiece, highlighting their commitment to quality.
Such an unusual destination for the reference implies few examples ever left the company for good, making it one of the most uncommon wristwatches to find on the market. Only a handful of examples - possibly as few as 4 - are known from the market. The present piece was, for example, last seen at auction in April 1989, at the historical “The Art of Patek Philippe” sale celebrating the 150th anniversary of the company.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An elegant and highly uncommon pink gold square wristwatch with hooded hinged lugs
PATEK PHILIPPE — An incredibly rare and unusual stainless steel rectangular wristwatch
PATEK PHILIPPE — An exquisite, very elegant, fresh-to-the-market and extremely rare platinum and diamond-set asymmetric wristwatch designed by Gilbert Albert
Gilbert Albert is beloved for his novel and daring designs that completely departed from the quotidian during the 1950s and 1960s. In 1955, Patek Philippe teamed up with the designer to produce a series of unusual wristwatches. The talented artist took inspiration from modern artists such as Brancusi and Mondrian, and his daring and unconventional case designs are considered as cutting-edge today as they were 60 years ago.
Fresh to the auction market, the present watch belongs to the famous “Asymétrie” collection of asymmetrical timepieces. While some of Albert’s modern designs never went beyond the prototype stage due to the uncertainty of their commercial success, Henri Stern, then chairman of Patek Philippe, was seduced by the present case design and approved its manufacture. Thus, reference 3424 was in fact produced, albeit in extremely limited numbers. The case maker chosen for this very unusual creation was Geneva-based Markowski (identified by the number 8 in a Key).
The watch here on offer, however, is not a simple 3424, but the much more exclusive /1 version denoting the sublime baguette diamond setting. Gem-set pieces commanded - back then as it is now - a remarkable increase in retail price (especially in the case of baguette-cut stones, such as in this instance), and the market was not yet very receptive of this trend. The situation is exemplified by the fact that the present watch was made in 1961 and sold more than two decades later, in 1984. One can then understand how restricted production of these pieces was. As a matter of fact, while 10 examples of reference 3424 in platinum are known, the present watch one of only four examples of the hyper-exclusive /1 gem-set version.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3424/1 “Gilbert Albert”
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely large and historically relevant brass openface deck chronometer with manual hack feature, with Guillaume Balance, recipient of honorable mentions at the Geneva Observatory chronometer contests in 1923 and 1924, and winner of the Third Prize in 1926, made for Hardys & Hayes Co.
Extremely rare, the present watch is one among less than two dozen known deck clocks with observatory movements. These timepieces were most notably made for retailers as display pieces - each with chronometer quality movements. Phillips sold a few of these creations, such as no. 170’205 featuring the same size as the present watch but made for Genova, Italy retailer Oscar Linke.
In a striking design, the boxes displayed the retailer each clock was displayed for - in this instance, it is Hardy & Hayes, active at the time in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Inside the mastodontic case lies one of the most accurate chronometer movement made by the brand, regulated by an exquisitely crafted Guillaume balance. It received honorable mentions in the Geneva Observatory chronometer contests of 1923 and 1924, and it won third prize in 1926.
A true testament to horological prowess from a time long gone, and an unmissable opportunity for any enthusiast of the finest mechanisms in horology.
PATEK PHILIPPE
No. 191’440 “Hardys & Hayes Co.”
PATEK PHILIPPE — An exquisite and superbly elegant yellow gold minute repeating openface pocket watch with two-tone champagne dial and French import marks
The present piece is a superb representative of Patek Philippe’s minute repeating production from circa 1940. Offered by the family of the original French owner - and indeed the watch is stamped with French hallmarks and features a Fab Suisse dial, confirming it was originally imported into that market - the piece presents aesthetics which are very encoded and elegant, yet with a hint of flamboyance. As often seen in watches from around the 1940s, the dial architecture is extremely rigorous and symmetrical, nearly militaristic: Roman numerals at 3, 6, 12 - and dots for the other hours - applied within the constraints of a well defined track. A nofrills brushed center. An outer minute scale.
The case as well is defined by contrasting polished and brushed surfaces and strong bevels and edges. Even the bow, until a few years earlier usually featuring a simple round design, in this instance becomes closer to the case and more angular, more “mean”. Yet, the superb two-tone champagne dial harmonizes with the gold case and grants the watch a softness, suaveness and warmth that is hardly ever found on watches with such a stern design. The final result is simply stellar.
Beyond its aesthetic merits, the horological connoisseur will be blown away by the superb movement powering the piece. Finished to the highest standards and offering chiming of remarkable purity and loudness, this watch is testament to how Patek Philipe has been working to achieve chiming perfecting since its early days.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A jaw droppingly beautiful and important pink gold wristwatch with three tone pink dial and Breguet numerals, the only known in this configuration
The present Patek Philippe reference 592 ticks many boxes that collectors have come to crave:
- Pink gold case
- Salmon dial (rendered even more appealing by the fact that it is three tone)
- Breguet numerals
- All confirmed by the Extract from the Archives - Fresh to the market
The conjunction of these elements make the present watch one of the most attractive time only models ever made by Patek Philippe. A perfect combination of styles, the dial strike an incredible balance between flair (Breguet numerals, multi-tone dial) and restrained elegance: the overall tone-on-tone result does not feel excessive or overly decorated. The three tones are made up of an outer, circular brushed and slightly darker salmon colored ring which displays the Breguet hour markers, a thinner mirrored ring dividing the inner and outer dial, and a grené center dial.
Ref. 592 “Three-Tone Rose Dial with Breguet Numerals”
BREGUET — A jaw-dropping, rare and important yellow gold perpetual calendar open face pocketwatch with power reserve, moonphases and equation of time, one of only 2 known
There are watch models that in virtue of their historical importance, rarity and attractiveness have soared above all the rest and are regarded unanimously by the community as “watch collecting endgame”: pieces that, once acquired, a connoisseur can feel to have reached the utmost peak of collecting, he or she becoming part of an ultra-exclusive club which only the most discerning and demanding collectors can say to have joined. The Patek Philippe reference 1518 in steel is the top echelon of this category. More than an endgame in watchmaking, the 1518 in steel is in the same trophy league as a Ferrari 250 GTO, a da Vinci painting or a bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1945. Desirable nearly impossible to obtain and category defining.
Patek Philippe produced approximately 281 examples, with the majority encased in yellow gold, while approximately 20% were cased in pink gold. Scholarship has shown that during the reference’s 14-year production run, a total of only four 1518s are publicly known today to have been completed and to exist today in stainless steel. Of the four known examples the present lot was the very first reference 1518 in steel produced elevating its historical relevance and desirability to new Himalayan heights
PATEK PHILIPPE — A genre defining, historically important highly collectable stainless steel perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase display, one of four known
Three of the four known steel 1518s have sequential case numbers 508473 (1), manufactured in 1943 – the present timepiece 508474 (2), manufactured in 1943 508475 (3), manufactured in 1943 633561, manufactured in 1947
Scholars and collectors have wondered why Patek Philippe would use stainless steel rather than precious metals for these four watches. Was it due to the price of gold in the midst of second world war, a special commission or just a test? In any event Patek Philippe would never again make another perpetual calendar chronograph in stee again, once again underlining the importance and relevance of this timepiece.
PATEKPHILIPPE—A genre defining, historically important highly collectable stainless steel perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphase display, one of four known
The case maker Georges Croisier, later recognized as ‘Genevor SA’, manufactured the three stainless steel references made during the 1518s first production series. Every detail that a collector would wish for, they will find within this example. In addition to the amazingly appealing condition of this watch, the subtle nuances found within the parts are sure to impress watch scholars around the world.The inner caseback is stamped with the serial number 508’473 and underneath the number ‘1’, indicating that this watch was the first reference 1518 in stainless steel ever made. Another interesting detail is the last three digits of the case, ‘473’, are engraved on the inner side of the stainless steel bezel. The overall condition of the present example is in a word, remarkable, especially considering that the 1518 is not a waterproof wristwatch and hence more exposed to humidity. The case is, in our view, as strong as any steel wristwatch from the 1940’s could possibly be, with hardly any signs of continuous wear or repeated polishing. Sharp edges, even and intact brushed and polished surfaces impress the beholder. The full proportions of the case are as close as possible to the state as it left the factory in 1943, with all lugs incredibly sharp, the two chronograph pushers in superb condition and nicely fitting, and the original crown still present.
The spectacular dial, free of damage or careless restoration often seen on watches of this period, manufactured by Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, is inscribed on the back with the last four digits of the movement number. To take it even one step further, on the back of the weekday and the month disc, the undersides are carrying the entire movement number, ‘863’193’ - all of which was done by hand. The dial is breathtaking in its beauty, and remarkably well preserved for a watch of its age. The raised black
hard enamel signature and scales are all crisp, wel defined, and in remarkable condition.
Giventhewatch’ssupremeimportance,itshouldcomeasno surprisethatouropinionisalsoechoedbyJohnGoldbergerinhis book,PatekPhilippeSteelWatches.Mr.Goldbergerdedicatedfour entirepagestothiswatch,givingitaprominentpositioninsidehis historicaltome,aprivilegeonlysharedbytheworld’sbestexamples intheircategory,andsubsequentlysomeofthemostimportant vintagewatchesintheworld.The present watch made its auction debut at Phillips Geneva Watch Auction Four, 12-13 November 2016 selling for slightly above 11,000,000 (about the same amount ins at the time) making it not the very first wristwatch to break the 10 million barrier and the world’s most expensive wristwatch demonstrating its importance as not only a timepiece but elevating it to the realm of an “objet d’art”.
There are creations that define an era—the wheel, the Gutenberg press or the smartphone to name a few. And there are icons that define an entire category, Claude Monet’s painting “Impression, Soleil Levant” opening the door for Impressionism, the Lamborghini Miura defining the supercar or Star Wars setting the benchmark for Sci-Fi and Heroic Fantasy films that would follow. Rare, however, is the object that defines both its time and its genre. The Patek Philippe reference 1518 in stainless steel is such an object. A timepiece of almost mythical status, it stands as the ultimate convergence of historical significance, design mastery, mechanical innovation, and rarity. Utterly unobtainable, profoundly influential, and fiercely coveted, it is not merely the most important wristwatch ever created by Patek Philippe—it is among the most consequential objects of the 20th century.
ETERNA — An interesting and very well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with pulsation dial
Manufacturer Eterna
Year Circa1945
Movement No. 3’212’611
Case No. 3’188’842
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Metalpinbuckle
Dimensions 34mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
2,000–4,000
$2,500–5,000
€2,100–4,300
Founded in 1856, Eterna has long been synonymous with Swiss watchmaking of the highest order. With a heritage spanning more than 160 years, the brand is celebrated for its technical innovations, most famously when it revolutionized the market by creating the first wristwatch with an alarm function. Eterna also co-founded ETA—its name derived from “Eterna” with the middle letters removed—which would later become one of the most influential movement manufacturers in the industry. Throughout its history, Eterna has remained a benchmark of fine workmanship and chronometer-grade precision.
The present Eterna chronograph is a particularly attractive example, fitted with a silvered pulsation dial calibrated for 30 heartbeats. Originally developed for physicians, this ingenious scale allowed quick and accurate pulse readings: by activating the chronograph and counting 30 pulsations, the central hand would point directly to the beats per minute on the blue graduated scale. Adding to its period charm, the chronograph subdial features a rare three-minute scale—an amusingly practical detail once used for timing calls in the era of paid telephones.
Preserved in outstanding condition, this watch perfectly illustrates Eterna’s blend of functionality and craftsmanship. It represents not only a fascinating slice of horological history but also an excellent opportunity for collectors to step into the world of vintage chronographs.
ANGELUS — A rare, extremely well-preserved and attractive stainless steel single button chronograph wristwatch with pulsations, respirations dial and crystal incorporating a magnifying arc
Manufacturer Angelus Year Circa1965
Model Name “Doctor’sWatch”
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,cal.22,jeweled
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle StainlesssteelEternabuckle
Dimensions 37mmdiameter
Signed Dialsigned
Estimate
1,000–2,000
$1,300–2,500
€1,100–2,100
Offered in most probably unpolished condition, the present single button chronograph wristwatch is more than a timepiece - it was created as a tool, designed to aid doctors in their line of work. Most notably, the dial displays two important scales, with the first one being pulsations, which allows easy calculation of the heart beat based on 10 pulsations. The second one is respirations, to identify the number of respirations per minute. The overall layout of the dial has also been designed to ease the legibility of the dial through different numbers in colours, and even a magnifying glass built inside the crystal.
The impressive state of preservation is noteworthy - the outside caseback has crisp engravings and sharp edges, showing how the timepiece looked like when it left the factory. An artifact as well as a chronograph watch, the present timepiece is captivating not only in its quality but also its ingenuity.
ROLEX — A very attractive and sporty stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Marking a true milestone in the history of the Daytona, Rolex introduced the reference 16520 in 1988 as the first-ever Daytona fitted with a self-winding movement. Featuring a larger case with crown guards, the model was powered by the celebrated caliber 4030, based on Zenith’s El Primero, representing a major breakthrough for Rolex. Initially launched in stainless steel with either white or black dials—like the present example—it was later joined by gold variants with a range of dial designs. Production ended in 2000, paving the way for the ref. 116520, which introduced Rolex’s first fully in-house self-winding chronograph caliber, the 4130.
The present Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520, dating to circa 1996 with “T” serial, is a very well preserved example of this iconic reference. Its black dial has developed a subtle patina to the subdials, adding to its vintage charm and character.
Accompanied by its original punched certificate, presentation box, and outer packaging, this Daytona is an outstanding opportunity to acquire one of the most historically significant and collectible references in the model’s lineage.
ROLEX
Ref. 16520 Cosmograph Daytona
ROLEX—An unusual and delightful silver rectangular wristwatch with threetone dial, chronometer certificate and presentation box
Originally released to the market in 1928, the Rolex Prince, or “Doctor’s Watch”, was an unbelievably accurate wristwatch. Often fitted with a chronometer movement, the model featured a subsidiary seconds register below the hours and minutes section of the dial, enabling a doctor to time pulses and respiration, hence its moniker. Rolex capitalized on this concept during the period, marketing the watch to professionals in the medical industry. The watch absolutely captures the zeitgeist of the 1920s, with its elegant, stepped case and deco-style dial composition.
Prince watches generally feature two different case styles: the soft, curved model with flared sides, such as the present watch, is known as the Brancard. The sharp, angled and rectangular model, is known as the Classic. While Prince watches were cased in a variety of metals, such as 9K gold or white gold or platinum, the present examples appears to be an extremely uncommon silver specimen – with the 925 titulation stamped to the inside of the caseback and repeated inside the case at 12. An intellectual curiosity comes from the Swan French import mark (the swan) present on the watch – which lacks titulation. This is because French government did not request such detail, and as long as the alloy was at least 800/1000 silver, it could be swan-stamped when importing the artifact.
Prince watches were fitted with a variety of dials. In this instance, the watch bears a superbly well executed three-tone dial featuring vertically and horizontally brushed elements coupled with mirror polished details.
ROLEX—A highly rare and attractive pink gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds and honeycomb dial, retailed by Joyeria Riviera
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1952
Reference No. 6284
Movement No. 70’770
Case No. 838’335
Model Name OysterPerpetual
Material 18kpinkgold
Calibre Automatic,18jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Rolexbuckle
Dimensions 34mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
12,000–24,000
$15,000–30,000
€12,800–25,700
Accessories
AccompaniedbyRolexredfittedpresentationbox.
This charming reference 6284 has a number of attributes that distinguish it from the ordinary. Not just any Oyster Perpetual, an amalgamation of details truly make the present watch an intriguing and unusual specimen.
First is the dial; the honeycomb variation is arguably be considered one of the most charismatic of Oyster Perpetual wristwatches. This specific specimen is offered in outstanding condition, with barely any ageing on the dial.
The seconds is the addition of the Joyeria Riviera signature on the dial, at 12 o’clock In business since 1943 and based in Havana, Cuba, the famous shop has had the privilege of stamping their name on vintage Rolex watches, ranging from Killys, to Datejusts and even early chronograph models. Finally, the present watch is cased in pink gold which is rarer than its yellow gold counterparts.
Another detail of interest is the “Registered Design” engraving that can be found on the outside caseback - heavily polishing would have easily rubbed this engraving out.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A well preserved, rare and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone dial, retailed by Serpico y Laino, the only one known in this configuration
Patek Philippe’s reference 565 is one of the most classic gentleman wristwatches of the 20th century. Released in 1938, the model featured innovative and enduring qualities that today make it a collector’s favorite. These including the two-piece Taubert case (FB stamp) with screw down back, an inner soft iron cover to protect the movement from the adverse effects of magnetic fields, and a more generous case size, compared to the smaller reference 96, which was first released in 1932.
The brand continued to manufacture the model until 1952. Designed for a public with a growing interest in outdoor activities, the reference 565 was waterproof with its screw-down caseback and offered with subsidiary seconds and less frequently, with center seconds. Over the course of time, the caliber was upgraded with first series examples, like the present watch, housing the caliber 12’’’120, while a Victorin Piguet indirect center seconds movement 12-120 SC was introduced in 1939, in 1950 a second series was released with the caliber 12’’’400, as well as the new caliber 27 SC (center seconds).
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare and exceptionally well-preserved platinum perpetua calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, 24-hour, leap year indication large hallmarks to the side of the lugs and Certificate of Origin
Introduced in 1986 as the successor to the legendary ref. 2499, the Patek Philippe ref. 3970 marked a major evolution in the brand’s lineage of perpetual calendar chronographs. It was the first to move away from the Valjoux-based calibers used in earlier models, instead adopting a highly modified Lemania ébauche. While it retained the timeless design language of its predecessors—the 1518 and 2499—it brought new functionality to the table, including a leap year indicator and 24-hour display for the very first time. Produced for over nearly two decades, the 3970 was offered in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum, and evolved through four distinct series.
Thefirstseries(1986–1988)featuredasnapbackcase,feuillehands, andwasonlymadeinyellowgold—approximately100piecesintotal. The second series (1987–1990), like the present watch, introduced a screw-down back marked “E – Etanche,” retained the feuille hands, and was made in all four metals with around 450 examples believed to have been produced.
The third series (1989–1995) added a sapphire display back, baton hands, and lapidated indexes.
The fourth and final series (1994–2004) continued the same design with updated movement and case numbers, and later added a deployant clasp.
The present example is part of the rare second series, dating from circa 1991—among the very last produced before the introduction of the sapphire caseback. It features a platinum case with exceptionally sharp hallmarks on the lugs and a beautifully preserved dial free of blemishes. Complete with its Certificate of Origin, this 3970E is a superb representation of Patek Philippe’s technical refinement and timeless design, and a true prize for collectors of classic haute horlogerie.
ROLEX — An extremely rare and highly attractive 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with a champagne-copper colored dial, and white graphic registers
The present watch is a simply stunning example of a Rolex reference 6241 - one of the rarest references of all Cosmograph Daytona models. Reference 6241 was launched in 1966 and remained in production only until 1969. The present example in 14 karat yellow gold is highly desirable and rare as it was sold to the American market. It is estimated that only a few hundred examples were produced during its production period
With a serial number of 1’533’969, the present watch is most notably a few digits away from another example, the so called “The Copper Tone”, which is featured prominently in Pucci Papaleo’s“UltimateRolexDaytona”tomeandwassoldatPhillips’ The Geneva Watch Auction: THREE on May 15, 2016.
Fitted with a gorgeous champagne-colored dial, when lluminated, it exhibits copper hues that perfectly match the warm, golden color of its 14 karat gold case. Further enhancing its rarity is the pure white printed graphics used within the subsidiary dials, rather than gilt printing.
ROLEX
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Copper Dial”
Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date is one of the most recognizable and versatile wristwatches available in the market. It is a model that can be worn by both men and women, and over its 60 year history has been produced in a number of variations. Ever glamorous, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dials, bracelets, bezels and gold-finished designs. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to its glamor and prestige.
The present watch is most probably one of the most important DayDates to come to the market in recent years. It is one of the very first “Rainbow” models the manufacture ever made, probably even before Rolex had officially coined the model name. It is most notably adorned with a beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red, and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel’s beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex’s technical superiority and eye for color. The dial also displays gemstones in a rainbow hue, referencing the colors of the bezel.
Most interestingly, the watch has a reference number completely different from other Rolex Day-Date models. Cased in white gold, it carries the reference number 18059. The present model is the direct inspiration behind the beloved Daytona and DayDate Rainbow models of modern times, providing an extremely interesting historical aspect to watch scholarship.
“Rainbow Khanjar”
ROLEX — A possibly unique, spectacular and important white gold and multi-colored sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds bracelet and red “Khanjar” symbol, made for the Sultanate of Oman
ROLEX — A possibly unique, spectacular and important white gold and multi-colored sapphire-set calendar wristwatch with center seconds bracelet and red “Khanjar” symbol, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1985
Reference No. 18059
Case No. 8’968’318
Model Name Day-Date“RainbowKhanjar”
Material 18kwhitegold,diamondsandmulti-coloredsapphires
While the market knows three “Rainbow” Day-Dates with “Khanjar” caseback, the present watch is the only known example with the rare diamond-set Jubilee bracelet and Red “Khanjar” logo on the caseback.
Most interestingly, the caseback is engraved with the Khanjar symbol, meaning that the present timepiece was sold to the Sultanate of Oman. Watches fitted with ‘Khanjar’ emblem were made on special request from His Majesty Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman, and presented as gifts to his closest dignitaries and collaborators. It was an honor to be presented a Rolex watch with the state symbol. In fact, many of these watches are cherished by their original owners, and passed down from one generation to the next. As a result, Rolex watches with the Khanjar symbol rarely appear on the market.
It is unimaginable when a white whale of watch collecting comes to the market, and it is with great certainty that another will not appear soon.
ROLEX
“Rainbow Khanjar”
ROLEX — A superb and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “prototype dial” and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1988
Reference No. 16520(insidecasebackstamped16500)
Movement No. 10’949
Case No. R884427
Model Name Cosmograph“PrototypeDial”
Material Stainlesssteel Calibre Automatic,cal4030,31jewels
In the mid 1980s Rolex decided to tackle the total remodeling of the iconic Daytona models with the biggest change being the introduction of the automatic El Primero based movement. As with all new models the brand went through trial and error before finalising the design.
The present reference 16520 bears one of these very early prototype dials made by Singer, featuring baton indexes and subdials very similar to the refs 6263/6265 it was to replace. Furthermore, the Rolex and Oyster print is quite similar to that of the previous manual wind references. The “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” text is what would be found in the new model. Two notable absents on the dial are the word “Perpetual” following “Oyster” and surprisingly the present dial does not feature “Daytona” above the 6 o’clock subdial as found in the manual wind models or the final 16520 production models but rather the word “Cosmograph”. Finally it is interesting to see the watch with a bezel with 225 graduation, that would be found in the early L series for a short period of time.
A very rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne “Paul Newman” dial, factory sticker, tachymeter bezel and bracelet
With reference 6239, Rolex inaugurated what can arguably be considered its most iconic, successful and collectible family of watches: the Cosmograph Daytona. Originally released in the USA in 1963, it became available in Europe only the following year. The American market was chosen for its closeness to the world of car racing. In fact, even the name Daytona was selected due to its American connotation, replacing the name “Le Mans” which had originally been devised for the model.
Featuring a champagne dial with gold graphics inside the sunken subsidiary registers, this timepiece was one of the most luxurious Cosmographs available on the market during the late 1960s. Glamorous and eye-catching, it is yet another variant of the beloved “Paul Newman” model.
ROLEX
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “The Golden Pagoda”
ROLEX
ROLEX A very rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne “Paul Newman” dial, factory sticker, tachymeter bezel and bracelet
Phillips Geneva, Daytona Ultimatum, 12 May 2018, lot 7.
Estimate
CHF 500,000–1,000,000
$626,000–1,250,000
€535,000–1,070,000
Accessories
Accompanied by Rolex fitted presentation box.
Reference 6239 was hardly ever cased in gold. During the reference’s life span, approximately 300 examples were cased in yellow gold, which is quite astounding when one takes into account the model’s approximate 14,000 unit production run.
Quite likely one of the greatest and best preserved yellow gold reference 6239s with champagne “Paul Newman” dial known to the market, this timepiece is an absolutely exceptional specimen. Displaying completely original lines, curves, and finishes, it best demonstrates the genesis and factory specifications of the mythical reference. The curved edges of the case, which would have lost definition with the slightest polishing are incredibly impressive. The same can be said about the straight, bold and unidirectional satin finishes on the top of the lugs. Another point of interest is the case back that displays the Rolex sticker. The inside case back bears no service marks at all.
ROLEX
Ref. 6239 Cosmograph Daytona “The Golden Pagoda”
Displaying crisp graphics and eye-catching details, the dial is presented in a noteworthy state of preservation. The luminous dots are all intact and round, making for an extraordinarily goodlooking dial. The larger and slightly slanted “T Swiss T” designation at 6 o’clock is correct for the 1.7 million serial number. Furthermore, the champagne dial has aged gracefully, showing barely any sign of aging. The gold graphics are idiosyncratic of reference 6241 and 6239. Later generation examples would feature white graphics inside the counters.
Its provenance is particularly impressive, having been sold at the historical thematic sale Daytona Ultimatum, 12 May 2018, at Phillips Geneva.
To acquire a reference 6239 with champagne “Paul Newman” dial is a dream for many collectors today. Yet, to discover one preserved in such exceptional condition with an immaculate dial, is positively unheard of. It is unimaginable when a white whale of watch collecting comes to the market, and it is with great certainty that another will not appear soon.
6239
“The Golden Pagoda”
ROLEX A very rare and extremely well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne “Paul Newman” dial, factory sticker, tachymeter bezel and bracelet
ROLEX — An extremely rare, very attractive, and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue pulsometer scale
Signed Case,dial,andmovementsigned;movement additionallystamped“ROW”
Provenance
PhillipsNewYorkDecember10,2019GameChangers,Lot21.
Estimate
100,000–200,000
$125,000–250,000
€107,000–214,000
pulsometer scale is a prestigious and uncommon calibration found on the dials of chronograph watches designed for medical professionals. A doctor would start the chronograph function, and stop it based on the number of heart beats counted as indicated on the scale, in this particular example 15. The stopped chronograph hand would indicate the exact number of heart beats per minute on the pulsometer scale.
To our knowledge, the current 6238 is only the second publicly known Pre-Daytona (the other is proudly photographed and catalogued in John Goldberger’s 100 Superlative Rolex Watches) with pulsations dial. Having appeared at auction at Phillips in 2019, this watch was purchased by the then-consignor over two decades ago from the original owner and was remained unused ever since. Thus, the present watch is a three owner since new timepiece.
Some watches are of such extreme rarity that the majority of collectors and enthusiasts are barely aware of their existence. To catch one of these “in the wild” is a triumph; to be able to hold and examine it, a privilege. Such is the case with the present stainless steel “Pre-Daytona”. Though the reference 6238 is often found with a stainless steel case and a silvered dial, it is almost never seen with the vivid blue pulsometer scale found in the present example. These watches were specialized for the medical field, as the pulsometer scale is meant to measure heart beats per minute and can be found on some of Rolex’s earliest chronographs. The
Rolex was known to produce chronographs with pulsometer scales, both before and after the era of the Pre-Daytona. The most famous of the Rolex chronographs with pulsations scale are the “medical” Cosmograph Daytonas - pump-pusher Daytonas with pulsometer scales of which about ten are known to exist. Indeed, as the decades of the twentieth century passed, the scales on the dials of Rolex chronographs became more uniform, developing from the artistry of the 1920s through 1950s to the more sporty and casual tone of the 1960s and 1970s. The present watch can be seen as a bridge between these two styles.
Discerning collectors will notice the narrow -T SWISS T- at the bottom of the dial typical of this era of 6238s, as well as the ROW printed on the movement, indicating the watch was made for the American market. Fantastically preserved, exceptionally rare, and beautifully proportioned, this watch ticks all the boxes for the collector of important vintage Rolex chroographs
ROLEX
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona Pulsations Dial”
In 1969, Rolex introduced references 6263 and 6265, succeeding the first Oyster Cosmograph, reference 6240. Both models featured screw-down Oyster chronograph pushers, improving water resistance to 50 meters. Notably, the 6263 came equipped with a black acrylic bezel insert with a white tachymeter scale—a signature detail that enhanced both function and design.
These references remained in production for nearly two decades and were available in stainless steel or gold, offering versatility to collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Ref. 6263 Oyster Cosmograph “Big Eyes”
ROLEX — A very attractive and highly rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with oversized “Big Eye” registers and bracelet
ROLEX — A very attractive and highly rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with oversized “Big Eye” registers and bracelet
What sets the present reference 6263 apart are several subtle but important features. Most striking is the dial, likely part of a series of experimental or test dials, with sub-registers that are visibly larger than usual. This rare and collectible variation has earned the nickname “Big Eye” among Daytona collectors. This is especially visible as the “T Swiss T” signature is much closer to the bottom subsidiary register than normal examples. In addition, the black dial version is much rarer than the most often found “Big Eyes” dial that is silvered in colour.
Another distinguishing detail is the lower placement of the “Rolex Oyster Cosmograph” text on the dial. Combined with its sharp condition and distinctive appearance, this timepiece is a standout example sure to appeal to discerning collectors.
ROLEX
Ref. 6263
Oyster Cosmograph “Big Eyes”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superb and exceptionally complicated yellow gold perpetual calendar openface pocket watch with minute repeater, moonphases, single button chronograph, enamel dial, Breguet numerals, original certificate and box
This superb horological masterpiece is offered in exceptional condition by the family of the original French owner. In fact, the quality of preservation allows today the beholder to admire the French import mark to the bow (and the one on the case rim, covered by the back). The technical innovation and design of the pocket watch served as the foundation for today’s high quality wristwatches. Without the complications first created for pocket watches, some of today’s most iconic complicated wristwatches could not have come to fruition, such as Patek Philippe’s legendary collection of wrist complications. Even the hallowed brand, however, had to endure nearly a century of R&D before launching a serially produced wristwatch with the same complications as this pocket timepiece - which happened in 2011 with ref. 5208. Made in the earliest years of the past century (and sold in 1915 - just at the dawn of WWI), the present pocket watch is an impressive representation of the skill and master craftsmanship associated with Patek Philippe’s mechanical innovation and workmanship since its earliest days.
While there is no undisputed consensus in regard to the definition of a “grande complication”, many collectors agree such a watch should combine (at least) a chronograph complication, a calendar complication and a chiming complication. The present perpetual calendar chronograph with moon phases and minute repeater fully satisfies the requirements. Notwithstanding its complexity, the dial is elegantly and symmetrically laid out with four subdials at 12 (moonphases), 3 (month), 6 (date + running seconds) and 9 (day). The chimes are crisp, clear and delightfully pleasing to the ear as one can expect from the Master of chiming complications. The chronograph is operated through a single button coaxial with the crown, increasing the balance of the case . Preserved in outstanding condition with an absolutely flawless enamel dial, its complexity certainly contributed to lay the groundwork on which was built Patek Philippe’s current reputation as one of the undisputed champions of high-end complicated watchmaking.
J. Player & Son were a Coventry, England-based firm of high-quality watch and clockmakers, known for their complex and ornate timepieces, including a famous “Super Complication” pocket watch made for the banker J.P. V around 1909, which was the most complicated English watch ever made at that time. Founded by Joseph Player in 1858, the firm achieved a strong reputation for precision instruments outside of London’s main horological centers, making pocket watches with advanced features like astronomical functions, alarms, and thermometers.
The present spectacular timepiece demonstrated the incredible technical prowess of English watchmaking at the time. The watch impresses with its number of complications rarely seen together:
Grande & Petite Sonnerie (quarters striking on 3 gongs)
Carillon trip minute repeating (quarters striking on 3 gongs)
Split seconds chronograph with 60 minute register
Perpetual calendar with leap year indication
Moonphases and age of the moon
Equation of time
Alarm
Bimetallic thermometer
Power reserve
Tourbillon
All these indications are superbly balanced in a legible manner on the beautiful dial made by Frederick Willis.
The power reserve is placed at 12 o’clock and surrounded by the thermometer (in Fahrenheit), the alarm dial that can be set to the minute is found near 10 o’clock and the month and leap year indications near 2 o’clock. An arc gong from 9 to 3 o’clock indicated the Equation of Time (difference between sidereal and civil time).
At 4 o’clock is the month indicator, the moonphases at 6 o’clock and the date at 8 o’clock.
The movement ébauche is by Nicole, Nielsen & Co., who was the leading manufacturer of complicated watches in late 19th century London, and made watches and carriage clocks for leading makers such as Frodsham, but also marketed under their own name.
The firm originated in 1840 when Adolphe Nicole, a partner in the firm of Nicole & Capt, Geneva, settled in London. In 1888 the firm was purchased by R.B. North, Nielsen being retained as joint managing director with Harrison Mill Frodsham. In 1888 the firm took the name of Nicole, Nielsen & Co.
This remarkable timepiece is a mechanical tour de force delivering a horological punch rarely seen at this level. Merging complications rarely seen together whether visual (equation of time, alarm...) or hidden (carillon repeater and tourbillon) this J.Player & Son is a testament of the incredible technical creativity of English watchmaking ate the time.
Introduced in 1941 amidst global tumult, the groundbreaking ref. 1518 stands as the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series. As the forefather of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar chronograph lineage, the ref. 1518’s design DNA can be seen in subsequent references like the 2499, 3970, 5970, and today’s 5270. This model paved the way for the manufacturer’s enduring legacy as the finest producer of complicated wristwatches and created a true design code for the category: windows at 12 o’clock for day and month, and counters a 3, 6, 9 respectively for the chronographic minutes, the date and the running seconds. A plethora of information lyrically arranged for optimized legibility and aesthetic balance, this is one of the best examples of the concept of industrial art - and indeed the design persists to today.
With only 281 examples made over its 14-year production run accordingly to research, the ref. 1518 is exceptionally rare and is considered one of the overall “endgame models” when it come to watch collecting overall.
In mechanically perfect condition, with a lovely case (untouched during the service) and featuring a literally “as new” dial thanks to Patek Philippe’s care, this timepiece is ideal for the collectors that want an iconic 1518 from the 1940s with performance close to a modern watch, making it a vintage grail as ready to spend wrist time as any current piece.
KIKUCHI NAKAGAWA — A highly distinguished, elegant and delightful stainless steel automatic wristwatch with hack seconds, black dial and Breguet numerals
Founded in 2018 by watchmakers Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa, the brand is deeply and openly inspired by 1930s-1950s watchmaking. By their own assertion, the brand has two themes as cornerstones, one of them indeed being “Making an authentic watch as an extension of the golden age of mechanical wristwatches”. The other one is “Extracting distinctive abstract aspects of the metal and pursuing the art of metal to push beyond its functionality.”
The attention to details of the brand is even more remarkable in consideration of the fact that most of the watch is handmade. Just the polishing of the case is an extremely demanding and timeconsuming task given the “no-tolerance” policy about even the slightest case distortion. Their faithfulness to their tenets goes at times to surprising extremes, such as with the choice of giving the watch a solid back covering an exquisitely decorated movement and rotor, exactly as famously was the case with some of the best executed watches of the mid-20th century such as Patek Philippe’s ref. 2526. Making its debut in a Phillips saleroom, we are honored to offer this exquisite modern classic of horology.
KIKUCHI NAKAGAWA Murakumo
CREDOR — A rare and attractive limited edition white gold wristwatch with metal engraving and lacquerware depicting waves, made in a limited edition of 30 pieces
Manufacturer Credor
Year Circa2016
Reference No. GBBD963
Case No. 23/30and6899-00J0
Model Name EngravedSkeletonLimitedEdition
Material 18kwhitegold,lacquerandmother-of-pearl
Calibre Manual,cal.6899A,jeweled
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18kwhitegoldCredorbuckle
Dimensions 37mmdiameter
Signed DialandmovementsignedCredor,casesignedSeiko
Estimate
5,000–10,000
$6,400–12,700
€5,400–10,700
The Credor Reference GBBD963 represents a pinnacle of Japanese horological artistry, blending traditional craftsmanship with mechanical sophistication. Introduced at Baselworld 2016 alongside the Fugaku Tourbillon, this limited-edition timepiece from Seiko’s high-end Credor collection draws inspiration from Katsushika Hokusai’s iconic “The Great Wave off Kanagawa.” The watch is a testament to Seiko’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, combining the technical expertise of its Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio with the aesthetic mastery of Japan’s finest artisans. Only 30 examples of this reference were produced, making it a highly coveted piece among collectors of haute horlogerie.
The 18K white gold case houses a mesmerizing skeletonized movement and dial, where the artistry of master lacquerware artist Issyu Tamura takes center stage. Tamura-san’s meticulous work creates a stunning purple-to-yellow-green gradation, evoking the dynamic movement of waves. This lacquer, inlaid with motherof-pearl, captures the essence of Hokusai’s masterpiece, with each dial becoming a unique work of art. Complementing this, the intricate wave patterns engraved on the caliber 6899A movement were supervised by master engraver Kiyoshi Terui. Terui’s handengraved balance cock, featuring a depiction of Mount Fuji, showcases extraordinary precision, executed under a binocular microscope to achieve unparalleled detail on a movement just 1.98mm thin.
The Credor GBBD963 is a rare fusion of traditional Japanese artistry and modern watchmaking, with Tamura’s lacquerwork and Terui’s engravings elevating it to a work of wearable art. Its limited production run of 30 pieces, combined with its historical significance as part of Seiko’s 2016 celebration of Japanese aesthetics, ensures its place as a collector’s gem. Recent auction results for Credor limited editions reflect growing demand for such pieces, particularly those showcasing Japan’s master craftsmen.
Ref. GBBD963 “The Great Wave off Kanagawa”
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with retrograde hours and minutes, polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting “Portugal”, number 9 of a limited edition of 10 pieces
Manufacturer VacheronConstantin Year 2004
Reference No. 43050
Movement No. 862’113
Case No. 673’887,caseflankfurtherengraved withlimitededitionnumber9
Vacheron Constantin’s Mercator wristwatch pays homage to Gerard Mercator, the 16th-century German-Flemish cartographer, geographer, and cosmographer. He was born in Antwerp in 1592 and became the most well-known cartographer of his time. He developed the Mercator projection, a method still used today, which rendered the configuration of the terrestrial globe on to a flat surface, becoming the standard for nautical purposes. He created a new world map in 1569 using this method, and it was a marvel of contemporary geography. Mercator was one of few scholars of the time that did not travel widely; most of his knowledge and skills were gained from his personal library of over 1,000 maps and books, as well as his correspondences with other scholars, statesmen, travelers, and seamen.
Vacheron Constantin’s uniquely designed Mercator wristwatch was released in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the scholar’s death and pays homage to him through its unique design. The retrograde hour and minute indicators resemble the legs of a handheld compass, while the stunning cloisonné enamel dial of Portugal is rendered based on his map and configuration.
The dial is the work of master enamellers Lucie and Jean Genbrugge, and signed with their signature, and is one of only ten examples with this dial. This enamel work of art is in exceptionally well-preserved, original condition
This example, yellow gold is part of a limited edition of only 10 pieces made for the Portuguese market of which the present piece is number 9 as engraved on the case flank. The dial most notably depicts Portugal, part of Spain and the Atlantic Ocean.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 43050 Mercator “Portugal”
AGASSIZ — An incredibly rare and attractive set of 2 worldtime watches comprising of a wristwatch in 14k yellow gold and a pocket watch in 14k pink gold
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A captivating and extremely rare tantalum and pink gold automatic openwork perpetual calendar wristwatch with box number 12 of a limited edition of 15 pieces
Manufacturer AudemarsPiguet Year Circa1998
Reference No. 25829TR
Case No. D80’643furtherengravedwithlimited editionnumber012
In 1986 that Audemars Piguet unveiled the very first fully openworked Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the ref. 25636. Powered by the calibre 2120/2800, it combined openworked aesthetic, intricate engraving, and the technical mastery of the perpetual calendar, all while maintaining the contemporary design codes of the iconic Royal Oak.
However, the original ref. 25636 did not include a leap year indicator until the release of the upgraded ref. 25820 in 1996, which featured the improved calibre 2120/2802.
Audemars Piguet’s pioneering spirit in the 1990s also led to the dramatic rise of innovative material usage in watchmaking. Credits should be given to the brand for their innovative combination distinguished by the use of tantalum with its unique grey-blue hue, which contrasts strikingly with the warm, lustrous tones of pink gold. This interplay of materials is further elevated by the openwork dial and salmon subsidiary dials creating a harmonious and visually captivating composition.
According to Audemars Piguet, the openwork Quantième Perpétuel ref. 25829 was produced in a limited production of just 15 pieces per configuration, including the present tantalum and pink gold example. Numbered 12, the present example is offered by its original owner and is fresh tot heauction market. It is very well-preserved with original beveling presented on the case. The stainless steel clasp bears the hallmark of the renowned bracelet maker Gay Frères. An incredibly rare and highly coveted reference by discerning collectors, the watch represents the pinnacle of Audemars Piguet’s innovative and traditional watchmaking prowess.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A fine and attractive yellow gold skeletonized perpetual calendar open face pocket watch with moon phases and leap year indication
Manufacturer AudemarsPiguet Year Circa1990
Reference No. 25559BA
Movement No. 263’786
Case No. 020andB78732
Model Name QuantiemePerpetuel
Material 18kyellowgold
Calibre Manual,cal.5020/2820,jeweled
Dimensions 49mmdiameter
Signed Caseandmovementsigned
Estimate
20,000–40,000
$25,000–50,000
€21,400–42,800
The present Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual skeletonised pocket watch in 18K yellow gold is a signature of the Le Brassus based manufacturer. With a respected heritage in manufacturing some of the most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, Audemars Piguet is notably distinguished for introducing the Royal Oak in 1972. Entering into the heights of the quartz crisis in the early 1980s, most manufacturers abandoned the production of mechanical timepieces and replaced them with quartz. However, that was not the case for Audemars Piguet. With a strong belief that the quartz wristwatch will not dominate traditional mechanical wristwatch, the firm continued to develop complicated perpetual calendar timepieces despite the fact that its competitors were shifting towards the new trend.
The present Audemars Piguet ref. 25559BA is an attractive statement piece from one of the most emblematic periods of horology. Fully skeletonized, the dial depicts the technical prowess of Audemars Piguet through the complicated cal. 5020/2820. With fully hand-engraved bridges, the combination of traditional artisanal craft and horological excellence is clearly presented in this present pocket watch. A wonderful and important era for Audemars Piguet and this present example from the respective era is offered in attractive overall condition and value.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Ref. 25559BA Quantieme Perpetuel
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — An elegant and avant-garde yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
Manufacturer VacheronConstantin Year 1967
Reference No. 6440Q
Movement No. 587’487
Case No. 421’799
Model Name “Cioccolatone”
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Automatic,cal1072/1,29jewels
The present timepiece is the successor to the reference 4737, now the reference 6440, introduced in 1957. The refreshed reference featured the automatic caliber K1071, possessing the capability to feature or not feature a date.
The present examples is set apart thanks to its original Vacheron Constantin signed bracelet making it one a very few number to have been made in this configuration.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 6440Q “Cioccolatone”
AUDEMARSPIGUET—A very attractive and rare yellow gold wristwatch with stickers, degradé dial, date, bracelet, certificate of origin, warranty, and presentation box
Manufacturer AudemarsPiguet Year Circa2022
Reference No. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01
Movement No. BG0248
Case No. GH8793A
Model Name RoyalOak“Jumbo”Extra-Thin“
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Automatic,cal.7121,33jewels
To mark the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet unveiled the reference 16202BA in yellow gold—a direct tribute to the legendary original reference 5402BA and its 20th anniversary successor, the 14802BA. Measuring 39mm in diameter, the model preserves the unmistakable proportions of the Jumbo while introducing the new in-house calibre 7121, replacing the venerable calibre 2121 after nearly five decades of service.
Beyond the technical evolution—with an upgraded 55-hour power reserve and quick-set date function—it is the dial that sets this anniversary edition apart. The smoked yellow-gold tone radiates from the center outward, fading into a smoky black periphery. This fiery dégradé effect transforms the traditional “Petite Tapisserie” into a captivating display of depth and energy, its golden applied markers and luminous hands harmonizing perfectly with the gradient backdrop. Unlike earlier yellow-gold Jumbo models, which favored tonal uniformity, this bold aesthetic breathes new life into one of watchmaking’s most celebrated icons.
Consigned in excellent condition with its original stickers on the bracelet and clasp, and complete with its full set of accessories, the present 16202BA is a rare opportunity to acquire one of the most desirable modern Royal Oak references—an anniversary edition destined to become a cornerstone in any serious collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A massive, very rare and highly attractive white gold and diamond-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, certificate and presentation box, part of a 1300 pieces limited edition made to commemorate the 40th Anniversary of the Patek Philippe Nautilus
To commemorate what is considered to be one of the most iconic luxury sports wristwatches in modern times, Patek Philippe launched two limited edition wristwatches featuring a unique dial embossed with 1976-40-2016 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the much-admired Nautilus. Included in the limited edition launch was the Nautilus reference 5976G chronograph wristwatch with date, and further features a larger 44mm diameter case. The largest case size in the family of the Nautilus ever offered, the reference is most definitely unique on its own. On the other hand, the dial is enough to captivate the minds of connoisseurs of Patek Philippe, as it was the first to feature a commemoration date on the classic ribbed sunburst blue dial.
With a resemblance to the reference 5980, similarly a chronograph with date powered by the same cal. CH 28-520 C, the reference 5976 is somewhat different. The commemorative piece features a case with the same thickness as the reference 5980, however as the diameter is larger than the reference 5980, it wears thinner on the wrist. Furthermore, the dial features baguette diamondset indexes which generates an enhanced but subtle luxurious appeal to the luxury sports watch of the century. Launched as an unnumbered, limited production of 1,300 pieces in 2016, the watches were offered to loyal and the most supportive clients of Patek Philippe globally.
It is further enhanced by the complete set of accessories it came with when purchased by the original owner including the now iconic cork presentation box. This 40th anniversary of Nautilus chronograph is fresh to the market.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A vibrant and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 was originally introduced at Basel Fair in 1972. Revolutionary and disruptive, the Royal Oak redefined the meaning of luxury timepiece with the use of stainless steel. Envisioned by the famed designer Gerald Genta, the timepiece was brilliantly engineered. Featuring a monobloc case with a distinctively maritime feel, an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. Simple yet lean and sporty the Royal Oak was set to become and has proven to be a design icon.
In 1977, the model was made available for the first time in precious materials: yellow gold, white gold and two-tone. The reference 5402BA in yellow gold, like the present example, was produced in a total of 736 units, sold between 1977 and 1980. Made available in several dial variants, the present timepiece showcases a beautiful grey dial and champagne date disc. The beautiful contrast of colours further elevate the refinement this timepiece exudes. To add rarity to an already extremely beautiful timepiece, a grand total of 736 examples of reference 5402BA where produced that being less than half of the total production of 5402 steel A-series.
ROLEX — A very well preserved, partially stickered, rare and incredibly beautiful pink gold and diamond-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with “rainbow” sapphire-set bezel, “rainbow” sapphire-set numerals, meteorite subdials, bracelet, warranty and box
The present example of Rainbow Daytona features without a doubt not only flawless condition, but also one of the most interesting provenance among those so far appeared on the public market as it is offered by the Gobbi family. One of the best-known watch retailers in Milan, Gobbi’s history dates back to 1842 when it was founded in Modena. They moved to Milan in 1986, opening the historic store in Corso Vittorio Emanuele. For more than a century, it will remain one of Milan’s landmarks for watch collectors, most notably retailing obviously Rolex but also Patek Philippe (the “Gobbi Milano” Patek Philippe ref. 2499 is a remarkable example dating to the 1950s.).
As it turns out the Rainbow worked its magic even on people who have literally grown up among watches, so much so than in 2021 Serena Gobbi decided to buy the watch as a gift to her mother Daniela. Not only the provenance from the family owner of one of the most important Rolex retailers in Italy is intellectually intriguing, but it furthermore affords the new owner of this timepiece one of the most - if not THE most - complete set of accessories a Rainbow has ever been seen with: it comes with the customary box and Warranty. It also has the additional, and hardly ever seen, layer of the purchase invoice with which Serena Gobbi bought the watch from the company, and the never seen commercial invoice between Rolex and Gobbi! From these documents it can be seen that the watch was sold by Rolex to Gobbi on July 13 2021, and Mrs Gobbi bought it on the 30th of the same month (and at the same price).
As expected by watch connoisseurs of this level, Mrs. Daniela kept the watch purely for its aesthetic and collectible value, to the point of it still retaining the caseback stickers - while the side stickers have been removed as, Mrs. Villa informed us, it was standard procedure at the time the moment Gobbi would received a Rolex watch.
Rolex is an absolute master at incorporating precious materials into their horological masterpieces. Rolex sports watches set with precious stones are amongst the rarest and most in-demand models created by the brand. Marrying the ultimate tier of luxury in case finishing with the most practical sports models, these pieces represent a contradiction of terms and are today as sought-after by collectors as they are scarcely produced by the brand.
ROLEX — A very well preserved, partially stickered, rare and incredibly beautiful pink gold and diamond-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with “rainbow” sapphire-set bezel, “rainbow” sapphire-set numerals, meteorite subdials, bracelet, warranty and box
Manufacturer Rolex Year 2021
Reference No. 116595RBOW
Case No. 91G7N270
Model Name CosmographDaytonaRainbow
Material 18kpinkgold,diamonds,multi-coloredsapphires
While the firm started to seriously integrate diamonds and gemstones with the introduction of the Zenith movement Daytona, it was not until the 2000s that Rolex truly pushed the design boundaries of the Cosmograph Daytona.
The present watch is aptly named “Rainbow” due to its beautiful and impressive bezel, which is set with gemstones that graduate in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones range from a vibrant and intense deep red and slowly morph to mauve, orange, chartreuse, green, blue and finally deep purple. The bezel’s beauty stems from the well-matched, pure and bright colored gemstones. The colors blend together seamlessly, attesting to Rolex’s technical superiority and eye for color. The lugs are furthermore set with diamonds, to enhance the colorful nature of the watch.
While yellow gold and white gold “Rainbow” examples were produced in 2012 and discontinued after a few years, it was not until 2018 that a new version was introduced to the market, using Rolex’s propriety pink gold named Everose. Of all the Rainbow versions known to exist in pink gold, the present watch is probably the most classic variant with a black dial and rainbow-hued sapphire markers. Today, the watch has soared to new heights in popularity due to its utter rarity and impressive looks. Due to a lack of supply on the market, the Rainbow Daytona is often not available to those even willing to pay a premium.
ROLEX — An early and sought-after yellow gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with “4-liner” black dial, bracelet, guarantee and service guarantee
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1991
Reference No. 16528
Movement No. 32’319
Case No. L874595
Model Name CosmographDaytona,“4-Liner”,“4Scritte”
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Automatic,cal.4030,31jewels
Introduced in 1988, the Rolex Daytona reference 16528 marked a bold evolution for the iconic chronograph—ushering in the era of automatic movements and solid gold opulence. Crafted in 18K yellow gold, it was part of the first series of Daytona models to feature the self-winding Zenith El Primero-based calibre 4030, together with its stainless steel, and steel&gold models 16520 and 16523. Among the early examples of these models, the so-called “4-liner” dial—with just four lines of text below the 12 o’clock marker—is a highly collectible rarity. It appears usually in the L serial range, after the earliest floating dials (featuring five lines of text, but the fifth one removed from the other 4 by markedly larger spacing) and before the later standard five liners. It appears that Rolex could not live for more than a few months without making sure the world knows their movements are “Officially Certified”.
The 4-liner dial offers a cleaner, more balanced aesthetic that appeals to purists and collectors alike. Often paired with glossy black or white dials and contrasting sub-registers, these early executions exude a minimalist refinement that sets them apart from later models. Combined with the full yellow gold case, screw-down pushers, and matching Oyster bracelet, the result is a striking and historically significant watch at the intersection of tool and luxury.
Early 16528s with 4-line dials are increasingly coveted for their transitional status and extreme scarcity. As the first automatic, all-gold Daytona, the reference 16528 holds a key place in Rolex’s chronograph legacy. The present example of this coveted model is not only offered complete of its original 1991 Warranty, but also with a Rolex service invoice dated 2022.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A fine, rare and attractive limited edition titanium and platinum chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, warranty and presentation box, made in a limited edition of 500 pieces to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Chronograph
Produced in a limited edition of 500 pieces, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, reference 26331IP was released to celebrate and pay tribute to the model’s 20th anniversary. Luxurious and sporty, the model was released in an unusual combination of titanium and platinum. The bezel and center links are most notably in platinum.
Featuring design improvements, like the reduced sub-dial for the the small seconds at 6 o’clock, the powerful aesthetics of the slate grey grand tapisserie dial paired with deep blue registers and outer track give to the timepiece a modern and elegant look.
Encased in a 41mm diameter case, the platinum octagon bezel firmly contrasts against the more opaque case.
Well-preserved and in excellent overall condition, the present Audemars Piguet reference 26331IP represents is a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire this highly sought-after and attractive limited edition example with an impressive presence on the wrist.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROLEX—A fine and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Four Liner” dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1989
Reference No. 16520
Movement No. 17’941
Case No. L347941
Model Name CosmographDaytona
Material Stainlesssteel Calibre Automatic,cal.4030,31jewels
Since the milestone of the firm’s very first model to feature a selfwinding caliber based on the famous Zenith El Primero movement released in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 has enjoyed tremendous success for over a decade of nothing else but soaring demand and praise. With Rolex’s rigors in developing innovations and advancements, the reference was discontinued in 2000 to make way for Rolex’s first ever in-house chronograph calibre 4130 with the reference 116520.
Growing in demand, the Cosmograph Daytona’s evergreen modern design has garnered the attention from vintage collectors all around the globe, and have become on the most sought after sports watch. Produced in circa 1989, the present example bearing an L serial is from the rare and coveted early examples of Zenith Daytona. The first half of the production of the “L” series houses a 4-Liner dial with a MK 200 units per hour bezel insert, followed by a very short run of MK II bezel like the present example, where the bezel was modified with a scale for 400, 250 and 225 indication, and “units per hour” has been relocated to 1 o’clock position. Adding attraction to this incredibly well-preserved example is the feature of an inverted 6 on the 12-hour register, making this one of the most desirable combination from the series.
The present early specimen is accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box, making this a highly collectable chronograph from the era.
CÉDRICJOHNER—A very attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch prototype with vintage movement, certificate and presentation box
Manufacturer CédricJohner Year 2021
Case No. 1023/4engravedProto
Model Name AbysseChronograph30thAnniversary“Prototype”
Cédric Johner may not be a household name but he is part of the first pioneer independent watchmakers having created their eponymous brand. After a few years working as a jeweler, Johner set up his workshops in Geneva and presented his first wristwatch in 1997. His approach to watchmaking merged both his horological and jewellery background. He remained traditional with his movements in their conception and presentation but his cases were delightfully creative, unusual and playful.
To celebrate 30 years of opening his first ateliers, Johner created a 30 piece limited edition chronograph in his signature tonneau(ish) Abysse case housing a beautiful new old stock hand-wound, column-wheel Valjoux 23 chronograph.
The present lot is a prototype of this anniversary piece, whereas the movements of the production pieces feature small seeds decoration applied throughout the bridges and the main plate, using a technique that is directly derived from jewellery beadsetting, the present piece features straight line finish and polished angles. Furthermore the chronograph and seconds hands are red as opposed to silver in the production models.
The present Abysse Chronograph prototype is an exciting offering from an independent watchmaker who has found an immediately recognizable design language.
CÉDRICJOHNER
Abysse Chronograph 30th Anniversary “Prototype”
RICHARD DANERS FOR GÜBELIN — A unique gold, enamel, diamond and emerald set “bras en l’air” open face pocket watch
Manufacturer RichardDanersforGübelin Year 1982
Movement No. 2’218’536
Case No. 22’454furtherengraved2’218’536
Model Name Brasenl’Air“Ballerina”
Material 18kyellowgold
Calibre Manuel,calIWC972,19jewels
Dimensions 44mmdiameter
Signed DialsignedGübelin,casebacksignedR.Daners andmovementsignedIWC
The “Bras en l’Air” (literally translating from French to Arms Up) is a type of double retrograde (1 hand indicating the hours, the other the minutes) that first came into use in the early 19th century but became fashionable and in vogue in the 1930s.
The present Bras en l’Air Ballerina from 1982 is part of a 3 piece limited edition with each one having a different dial, represents a dancer taking center stage, upon pressing the button at the top part of the case the hands of the ballerina rise to indicate the time.
The top part of the dial is in red flinqué enamel, in the centre stands the gold ballerina in a diamond studded bodice standing within a diamond pavé circus ring with baguette emerald rim.
This unique piece was designed and built by Richard Daners (using an IWC cal 972), one of the most talented and respected modern watchmakers who executed unique commissions for Gübelin, and took 2 years and 400 hours to complete.
Daners who joined Gübelin in 1952 and exclusively working for the brand, is famous for his work in restoring and creating ultracomplicated timepieces, his specialty being the tourbillon, the most famous being one of the world’s first triple axis tourbillons.
In 1997 Daners won the Artisan- Creator category at the prestigious Gaia awards.
RICHARD DANERS FOR GÜBELIN
LAURENT FERRIER — A unique, subtle and sophisticated stainless steel wristwatch with ruby and sapphire indexes, double direct-impulse escapement, warranty and presentation box
After serving as Creative Director at Patek Philippe for over 35 years—a pivotal role at one of the most revered names in watchmaking—Laurent Ferrier launched his eponymous brand in 2010. Laurent Ferrier timepieces are the epitome of sotto voce elegance and style and the present unique Galet with sunburst salmon dial with sapphire and ruby indexes is no exception. The present “Galet” meaning pebble in French gets its name from the sinuous contour and flowing turned lugs resembling a river stone, was a passion project of a distinguished collector wishing to merge a steel case with a dial providing for a flamboyant contrast and subtle gem setting, notably baguette rubies at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock and sapphires placed at the other hour indexes. The immense difficulty was to create these indexes without any visible attachments or frame as if they were applied to the dial, something that had never been done in watchmaking. So arduous was the task that Ferrier decided not to undertake something similar again.
Like with many creations for Only Watch, brands use the auction as a canvas to test and innovate technologies to later benefit serially produced models for commercial use. As such, F.P. Journe officially released the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante in 2018. When F.P. Journe announced the release of his Only Watch creation, he had declared that it was unequivocally a unique piece, meaning the watch and the movement within would not be reproduced. Keeping true to his word, the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante was a completely new reference joining the LineSport collection, with a modified movement and the addition of a big date display. It was launched in pink gold, platinum and titanium.
The present watch represents the what collectors have come to love so much about the watch industry, proof that it is always in motion, innovating with the involvement of different masters of their trade. The present Urban Jürgensen was born as a minute repeater with tourbillon, a prototype made in 2004 under the leadership of the iconic team of Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt. It first appeared at auction in 2013 where it was subsequently brought to the brand for an upgrade.
The new owner wishing to add a greater level of horological mojo to an already exceptional watch tasked Bernhard Zwinz to upgrade the watch with a perpetual calendar mechanism with a design similar to the brand’s iconic Reference 2. Zwinz was then (and still now) one of the best kept secrets in independent watchmaking, having joined Philippe Dufour in 2001 to work on the Simplicity he set up his workshops about a decade later working for different brands including Greubel Forsey and finally launching his own personal watch project under the Winnerl brand in 2018.
Famously known for being the acclaimed masters of complications, Franck Muller has created some of the most technically challenging and ultra-complex timepieces packed with complications since inception of the brand. One of their most prized and appreciated timepieces were their chronographs, especially the earlier models from the late 1990s and early 2000s. Not only known for creating complicated timepieces, Franck Muller is also a trendsetter to an extent by being one of the pioneers of creating timepieces based off incredible vintage models that has inspired a new appeal to the industry, which is evidently reflected in today’s trend of vintageinspired timepieces.
F.P.JOURNE—A coveted and sophisticated platinum tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve display, remontoire d’egalité, ruthenium dial and ruthenium-coated movement with box and Certificate numbered 57 of a 99 piece limited edition
In 2001, two years after launching his Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d’Égalité, Journe introduced a special version housed in a 40mm case—larger than the 38mm standard at the time—and treated with a striking ruthenium coating across both the dial and movement. This marked the birth of the “Ruthenium Collection,” a series that bridged the transition between Journe’s early brass calibers and the 18k pink gold movements that would become the brand’s signature.
Among Cartier’s most emblematic designs, the Tortue holds a special place. First conceived by Louis Cartier in 1912—five years before the Tank—it ranks among the maison’s earliest original shapes. Alongside the Santos and Tonneau, it established Cartier’s design language with harmonious, organic proportions that remain instantly recognizable more than a century later.
The Tortue Collection Privée Hours/Minutes, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, was produced in three limited editions: 200 pieces in yellow gold, 200 in platinum with applied numerals, like the present watch, and 50 in platinum with a diamond-paved case.
Its opaline dials offer a cleaner, more minimalist interpretation compared to the guilloché motifs of earlier Tortues. Breguet-style hands, executed in the same metal as the case, further enhance the restrained and timeless design. Elegant, discreet, and historically significant, the Tortue Hours/Minutes is a testament to Cartier’s mastery of shape and proportion. Already sold out at boutiques, these limited edition reaffirm the Tortue’s reputation as one of Cartier’s most elusive and desirable creations.
ANDERSEN GENEVE — A unique and outstanding pink gold minute repeating wristwatch, with case by J.P. Hagmann
Manufacturer AndersenGeneve Year 1995
Reference No. 465
Movement No. 0
Material 18kpinkgold Calibre Manual
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18kpinkgoldAndersenpinbuckle
Dimensions 38.5mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
50,000–100,000
$62,600–125,000
€53,500–107,000
Accessories
confined space of said bottle! The “Bottle Clock” was exhibited in 1969 at the “Montres et Bijoux” fair and the same year Andersen joined Patek Philippe at the Grand Complications workshop.
Dubbed the “Watchmaker of the Impossible”, Danish born Svend Andersen moved to Switzerland in 1963 and worked for famed retailer Gübelin in their aftersales service. During his spare time he worked on a “Bottle Clock” a clock that was placed within a small bottle where Andersen had to assemble a working clock inside the
There is a certain aura of nostalgic charm on the present unique pink gold minute repeater from 1995 whether the elegant classicism of the dial, hands or case along with the subtle repeater trigger hardly visible on the case flank. Already an extraordinary timepiece the case is made by an artisan at least equally legendary in his own field to Andersen - J.P. Hagmann, who is widely considered one of the (if not the) best case makers in the entire history of horology, having collaborated with virtually all the most important brands. To give an example, when in 1989 Patek Philippe created the most complicated watch in the world (the Calibre 89), Hagmann was their case maker of choice for the pieces. The case with its long downturned lugs is reminiscent of the iconic Patek Philippe ref 2499 case or more recently the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II case – also designed by Hagmann. The watch was serviced by Andersen in 2022.
ZENITH — A fine and rare stainless steel and yellow gold large single pusher chronograph wristwatch with enamel dial, made for the Marina Militare
While the CP-2 (Cronometro da Polsa Type 2) is the best known wristwatch Zenith made for the Italian army in the 1960s-1970s, it is a lesser known fact that Zenith provided the Italian Navy with a small batch of chronographs in the 1930s.
Whereas the design of the CP-2 was overtly military and was built to be used by the armed forces, the present lot made for the Marina Militare, the Italian Navy, with its superbly elegant steel and gold case with enamel dial was most probably made to be worn by high ranking officers as far away as possible from battles or from the nefarious effect of sea water.
The large 42mm stepped case is quite impressive with its short downturned gold lugs and gold bezel. The superbly preserved white enamel dial features crisp black Arabic numerals and a double snail scale, the tachometer in red and telemeter in blue. A “nodo savoia”, or savoy knot, is prominently featured above 6 o’clock. The present watch in excellent condition is quite unique as it was made for the Italian Navy but lacks the ruggedness of a tool watch to be used in combat. With its sleek elegance it is a somewhat UFO amongst military watches and as such will certainly appeal to the most discerning collector.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A rare and elegant pink gold chronometer wristwatch with center seconds, original certificate, rating certificate and Geneva seal certificate
Almost every significant watch manufacture has an iconic watch that collectors associate with the brand, such as the Reverso with Jaeger Lecoultre, or the Submariner with Rolex. Vacheron Constantin is probably best known for its Chronomètre Royal.
The Chronomètre Royal Vacheron Constantin Genève became a registered trademark on May 28th, 1907 when the first pocketwatch bearing this prestigious name was presented. Thereafter, the name was used on only those fitted with a chronometer certified movement.
This is a beautiful example of a reference 6111, showing the fullness of its case proportions. The warm, silvered dial with applied and faceted hour markers combines purity and elegance that is typical of the period.
Offered without reserve, it is accompanied by many of its original accessories, such as the Vacheron & Constantin Certificate of Origin from 1957, Chronomètre Royal Bulletin de Marche and additional certificate of origin, adding another layer of collectibility.
It is on very rare occasions that a prototype of this magnitude from one of the world’s most prestigious manufactures graces the auction market. The Saltarello is a timepiece that defined the 1990s for Vacheron Constantin who was then testing retrograde displays (something of a rarity at the time) and the present prototype has its own story to tell. Offered by the watchmaker who developed the Saltarello the present prototype displays a cavalcade of details not found on the production piece.
The development for the watch started in 1994 with the present prototype being finalised in 1995/1996. While Vacheron Constantin had previously made watches featuring jumping hours and retrograde minutes, this was the company’s first successful combination of the two in a single wristwatch.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 43041 Saltarello “Prototype”
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A
wristwatch with retrograde minutes and second case
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A historical and unique yellow gold jump hour prototype wristwatch with retrograde minutes and second case
Manufacturer VacheronConstantin Year Circa1995
Reference No. 43041
Movement No. 619’373
Case No. 698’780furtherengravedPièceUnique,2ndcase engravedTestN°1
The movement is based on the ultra-thin automatic caliber 1120/2, the jump hour mechanism features a “brake system” based on a minute repeater gong to cushion the return of the minutes hand. This system was abandoned on the production pieces. The hand guilloché dial is also quite different from the regular production pieces as the applied gold numerals have hand polished rounded tops whereas regular production pieces were flat. However, the most visible difference is the opening at the bottom of the dial enabling an open view on the retrograde minute wheel.
By turning the watch over one can admire the skeletonised and hand engraved rotor, which is this case is engraved also on the back – once again something different from the production version. The present prototype was first cased in a gold plated case engraved Test N°1 on the caseback and between the lugs. In 2000 Vacheron Constantin made an 18k yellow gold case specially for the watch engraved Pièce Unique.
The Saltarello was officially launched in 1998 and made in 100 pieces in yellow gold and 200 pieces in pink and white gold each.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Ref. 43041 Saltarello “Prototype”
ROLEX—A fine, attractive and “like-new” white gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Introduced in 2016, the white gold Rolex Daytona ref. 116509 with metallic blue dial quickly became a collector favorite for its striking colorway and full precious metal construction. The stealth yet luxurious white gold case and blue dial combination is an iconic design that has always captured the hearts of watch enthusiasts, making it a highly sought-after model.
Crafted entirely in 18k white gold, the watch balances sporty design with refined elegance, powered by Rolex’s in-house chronograph calibre 4130.
This 2017 example is preserved in virtually unworn condition with stickers intact on the watch. It is accompanied by its original box, guarantee card, and literature. Remarkably, the QR-code sticker remains intact on the case, indicating minimal, if any, handling since purchase. With the model now discontinued, this pristine example offers a rare chance to acquire one of the most desirable modern Daytona references.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A fine and attractive limited edition white gold world-time wristwatch with moon phases, certificate of origin and presentation box, made for the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe
In 2014, Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary with a collection of limited-edition timepieces that encapsulated the brand’s legacy of technical mastery and aesthetic refinement. Among them was the reference 5575G, produced in just 1,300 examples, and notable as the very first Patek Philippe wristwatch to combine the world time complication with a moon phase display. It was presented alongside other anniversary creations, including the reference 5975 multi-scale chronograph, the platinum chiming ref. 5275P with digital jump hours, and the extraordinary ref. 5175R Grandmaster Chime—together forming a landmark collection in modern horology.
The 5575G introduced a new movement, the ultra-thin caliber 240 HU LU, developed specifically for this anniversary model and its companion ladies’ reference 7175R. Featuring a 22K gold micro-rotor, the movement powers both the world time display and the highly realistic moon phase. Executed with poetic elegance, the lunar display unfolds against a starry nocturnal sky, achieved through two overlapping discs that rotate in harmony with the moon’s actual orbit—a technical and artistic triumph for Patek Philippe. The present example is offered complete with its Certificate of Origin stamped by the prestigious Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva, commemorative coin, attestation, and presentation boxes. A perfect synthesis of innovation and tradition, the 5575G remains one of the most evocative anniversary pieces from Patek Philippe and a cornerstone for any collector of modern limited-edition complications.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5575G-001 “175th Anniversary”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A new and highly desirable white gold perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, 24- hour indicator black dial, certificate of origin, solid caseback, double sealed
One of the great classics of modern Patek Philippe history, the reference 5004 was produced between 1994 and 2010. It is the first Patek Philippe serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with split-seconds. Together with the reference 5070 and 5970, it is the last Patek Philippe model to employ the “Nouvelle Lemania”-based caliber. The aesthetics of the watch are based on the reference 3970, with subtle differences: the vast majority of dials feature large Arabic numerals instead of baton markers most often found on the ref. 3970; the case is thicker and 0.8 mm wider as a result of the split-seconds complication, granting it a more substantial wrist presence.
The intricacy of the split-seconds module added to the already complex perpetual calendar chronograph and the extremely high finishing standard of the company commanded an incredibly slow production rate. Out of the five serially produced materials used for the 5004 – being yellow gold, white gold, pink gold, platinum, and stainless steel – white gold is believed to be the rarest with only 27 examples known to-date.
PATEK PHILIPPE Reference No. 5004G-015 “Double Sealed”
The most unattainable and sought-after variant of all steel Paul Newman wristwatches is unequivocally the “Oyster Sotto Paul Newman”. Scholars estimate that less than 30 examples have appeared overall on the market.
The present newly discovered Oyster Sotto resided for most of its life in the same family, from which it was purchased a few years ago by the consignor. Given the scarcity of these watches and their renown, the thrill of the resurfacing of a lost example is destined to be an ever dwindling occurrence – a statement even more true in the case of a specimen of such remarkable condition. The case fully preserves its architecture, and the dial is in absolutely superb condition with a pristine surface, strong graphics and tritium accent which have acquired a charming light ivory tonality. The presence of its original Warranty is the icing on the cake which will satisfy even the most hardcore completionist.
ROLEX — An incredibly well preserved, supremely rare, and “fresh to the market” stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Oyster Sotto” Paul Newman dial, bracelet, warranty and box
ROLEX — An incredibly well preserved, supremely rare, and “fresh to the market” stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Oyster Sotto” Paul Newman dial, bracelet, warranty and box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1971
Reference No. 6263
Case No. 2’085’496
Model Name CosmographDaytona“PaulNewman” “OysterSotto”“RCO”
Material Stainlesssteel Calibre Manual,cal.727,17jewels
Beautifully preserved, it is not an overstatement to say that the present specimen is a true “Crown Jewel” for all collectors of highly important timepieces.
Since its acquisition in 1985 by Peter Baumberger and subsequent rebirth in the 1990s under the technical supervision of Derek Pratt and Kari Voutilainen, Urban Jürgensen has always maintained an immediately recognizable visual language with its elegant slim stepped cases, tear drop lugs, lavish guilloché dials and elaborate hands. Today, Kari Voutilainen himself is at the helm of the brand after a change in ownership of the brand in 2021.
The present watch, a Big 8 is offered as a full set and perfectly encapsulates Urban Jürgensen’s design philosophy with its immediately-recognizable teardrop lugs and a convex bezel. Finished to perfection, the case has been made in the “traditional” way, meaning that each component has been hand polished and made without the overuse of modern technology. The pink gold case adds a traditional and elegant appearance to the timepiece. The dial is a work of beauty, being decorated with a guilloché finish, made by hand. The numerals are made with enamel, and the contrasting patterns are delicate and a sight to behold.
At a 40mm diameter, the Big 8 is, as its name implies, a larger version of the original Reference 8 that had a 37mm case, and comes with a date positioned within the circle of the small seconds hand at 6. The finely decorated movement is based on the slim F. Piguet 1160 automatic caliber and features a stunning solid gold guilloché rotor. The sheer amount of detail and care that have gone into the creation of this piece is quite incredible and the present Ref Big 8 model offers a type of watchmaking that is rarely found today, and this particular Ref Big 8 in rose gold with Urban Jürgensen rose gold folding clasp is an exceptionally rare find in almost unused condition. The watch comes with a complete set including hang tag, box, papers and the Jürgensen Dynasty book.
HAJIME ASAOKA — An exquisitely crafted and finished and extremely uncommon stainless steel prototype wristwatch with multi-tone engine turned dial
Hajime Asaoka is a relatively new yet revered name in the market, gaining notoriety with his superbly crafted timepieces that are quite difficult to obtain. His early career as a product designer put him in contact with watchmaking enthusiasts. Inspired, Asaoka purchased a copy of George Daniels’ “Watchmaking,” which lead to the creation of his prototype Tourbillon Number 1, in 2009. This prototype allowed him to be accepted as a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a Swiss-based organization dedicated to preserving the art of fine handmade watchmaking and independent makers. By 2011, Asaoka was manufacturing a small collection of timepieces – all designed, manufactured, and assembled by himself, resulting in an extremely low annual production of no more than a few pieces.
In 2012, Hajime Asaoka released his Tsunami wristwatch with a completely in-house, manual wind movement. The wristwatch was a classic time-only piece in stainless steel with a 37mm diameter case and a highly attractive two-tone dial with a “zen garden” design to the subsidiary dial. The case has a well-defined sleek look with perfect proportions to suit any size wrist. The extremely well-finished movement is seen through the sapphire caseback and displays incredible attention to detail and masterful technical skills. Designed for maximum timekeeping precision, one can’t help but be impressed with the oversized, 15mm stainless steel balance wheel and the gold “tako wheel” found beneath the balance. The Tsunami “Art Deco” was a limited edition of 6 pieces, the present prototype bearing number 0/6 was in fact the piece that was presented by Asaoka during the launch and the piece that was entered and exhibited during the GPHG 2024 awards.
HAJIME ASAOKA
Tsunami Art Deco “Prototype”
Manufacturer OndrejBerkus Year Circa2023
Material Titanium
Calibre Manualinhouse
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainlesssteelpinbuckle
Dimensions 37mmdiameter
Signed Tourbilloncagesigned
Estimate
30,000–70,000
$37,500–87,600
€32,100–74,900
Imagine an independent watchmaker that many seasoned independent watch aficionados have not heard of, who does not have a website and who’s order books are full for the next 10-15 years! Ondřej Berkus is one such maker and we are delighted to offer one of his creations for the first time in an international auction room.
Ondřej Berkus is a self-taught watchmaker from the Czech Republic who merges traditional craftsmanship with unconventional and, at times, futuristic designs. With a background in precision engineering, Berkus began his career crafting knives for several years before turning to watches where he could express his creativity in a more defined manner. The consignor first contacted Berkus in 2020, looking for two features in the watch that always fascinated him: the constant-force mechanism and the deadbeat seconds display. They may appear simple on paper, but in reality they are among the most technically challenging feats a watchmaker can tackle. Only after half a year of discussions did he agree to proceed, beginning work at the end of 2021.
The project would not reach completion until 2023. The challenges were as numerous as they were complex. Chief among them: the decision to position the tourbillon at the center of the dial. This is far from a standard arrangement—it demands a fundamental re-engineering of the gear train. On top of that, he incorporated a constant-force mechanism using a Reuleaux triangle and fork to regulate the spring driving the escapement wheel, a nod to the ingenious designs of the late Derek Pratt.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superb, important and extremely in-demand pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour indication, leap year indication, moonphases, Certificate, additional caseback and box
The present 4th series pink gold example of landmark reference 3970 is offered not only complete of its original papers (which disclose it was originally sold by Gubelin), but is also in exceptionally well-preserved condition, with a virtually flawless dial and a likely unpolished case. Intellectually, it is distinguished by being one of the very last 3970 produced, as its Certificate is dated September 2004: by then the model was in fact out of the official catalogue, replaced by its descendant ref. 5970.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A hefty and very rare yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar open face split-seconds chronograph pocket watch with moonphases
Manufacturer PatekPhilippe Year 1931/1955
Reference No. 658
Movement No. 198’447
Case No. 680’488
Model Name GrandeComplication
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Manual,cal.17”,41jewels
Dimensions 50mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
100,000–200,000
$125,000–250,000
€107,000–214,000
Accessories
Patek Philippe’s complicated pocket watches are a marvel both for their technical prowess, and classic design. The “Modern” triple complicated line of pockets watch from the late 1930’s until the late 1950’s is a wonderful demonstration of the manufacturer continued traditional horological past, yet looking to a new modern appeal. Launched in 1937, reference 658 features a large stepped case, featuring elegant clean lines with an architectural feel. Interestingly, the Arabic numerals and leaf hands are similar to those of Patek Philippe’s iconic reference 1518.
Heavy and remarkable, reference 658 was at the time of production one of Patek Philippe’s most complicated serially produced pocket watches and a true Grande Complication as it features a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater with delightful chimes and a split seconds chronograph (considered to be one of the most complex complications to master). The present example is preserved in excellent condition, boldly displaying contrasting polished and brushed finishes. Two crisp hallmarks are punched on the inside rim of the case, hidden by the case back. The hard enamel printing is raised and the dial is preserved in overall excellent condition with hardly any tarnishing or spotting, which is particularly impressive considering its age.
The present reference 658’s movement was made in 1931 and cased in 1955. The reference 658 is such a rare piece that only 7 pieces have ever appeared at auction.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 658 Grande Complication
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A complicated and highly attractive pink gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphase, leap year indication and bracelet
The present example is as stunning as it is stealth. The ultra slim (8.1mm) pink gold case and bracelet have a heft and beautiful lister that immediately set it apart. The dial is enthralling with its incredible deep blue lacquer dial and translucent multi-layered moonphases display.
The movement in itself is a technical feat. Even though it consist of 276 components, cal. 1120 QPSQ/1 measures a mere 4.05mm in thickness and is stamped with the prestigious Geneva seal.
In excellent condition and accompanied with its full set of accessories, the present Overseas perpetual calendar ultra slim in pink gold is a must have for the collector looking for a high quality complicated casual chic timepiece.
ROLEX — An extremely well-preserved, rare, and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black galvanic dial, tachymeter scale and bracelet
Reference 6238 is referred to amongst collectors as the “PreDaytona”, as it is the last chronograph model to feature a smooth bezel with a printed tachymeter scale on the dial and is the immediate predecessor of the historic reference 6239 – the Cosmograph Daytona. By design, this extraordinarily attractive specimen is more modern compared to earlier Rolex chronograph watches and is the direct link to the famed and iconic Cosmograph Daytona. This watch is most notably an extremely exclusive variant as it features a very rare “galvanic” black dial, where the script is crafted in gilt relief, rather than the more commonly found print technique where the text is applied directly on the dial. The “-T SWISS T-” found at the dial’s lower edge by 6 o’clock indicates that Tritium was used for the luminous hands and hour markers. The serial number 964’614 indicates that the watch can be dated to 1963, which is absolutely correct.
The present “Pre-Daytona” is offered in overall excellent condition, illustratedbythesharpbezel,strongdefinitionofthelugs,crisp numbersinbetweenthelugs,andtheunrestoreddial.Thecase anddialconfigurationmakesthisoneofthemostdifficultand mostexclusivewatchestoobtain.Furthermore,thiswristwatchis accompaniedbyitspresentationboxandRolexguaranteefromS.A. DupontinParis,makingthistimepieceacollector’shorologicaldream cometrue.Addingtotheprestigeofthepresentwatchisthefactthat itwassoldatthehistoricPhillipssale:START-STOP-RESET:88Epic StainlessSteelChronographs,lot68.Assuch,it saccompaniedbya copyofthebookthataccompaniedeachwinninglot.
Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona Galvanic Dial”
ROLEX — A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel automatic military diver’s wristwatch with rotating bezel and fixed bar lugs, made for the British Navy
In the 1970s, the British Ministry of Defense commissioned Rolex to supply a watch that met strict military specifications for its naval officers. Requirements included fixed spring bars welded to the lugs, preventing the use of metal bracelets; a robust nylon strap produced by Phoenix; a 60-minute bezel insert; oversized sword-shaped hands; and a luminous dial marked with an encircled “T” to indicate the use of tritium. Rather than creating a new model, Rolex adapted its Submariner reference 5513, giving birth to the legendary “MilSub.”
Between 1972 and 1979, approximately 1,200 of these modified Submariners were delivered to the Royal Navy and British Army. Designed for use in the most challenging environments, many were either lost or later altered, making survivors in original configuration exceedingly rare. It is precisely this combination of rarity, utility, and military provenance that makes the MilSub one of the most coveted tool watches among collectors today.
The present example bears the correct military engravings, including the “0552” code for the Royal Navy, “923-7697” NATO designation, issue number “415,” and year of issue “75.” It is preserved in very good overall condition with a sharp case, strong lugs, and a dial that has aged beautifully with a warm pumpkin patina on its hands and hour markers. Importantly, the inside caseback shows the repeated serial number and all dial details match its correct period, confirming its existence as a highly desirable and well-preserved MilSub.
Ref. 5513 Submariner “Milsub”
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely rare and attractive limited edition white gold annual calendar wristwatch with salmon dial, certificate of origin, and presentation box, produced to mark the 5th Anniversary of Patek Philippe’s entry into China and the inauguration of its Boutique in Shanghai part of a limited edition of 25 pieces
Reference 5399 was created to mark the fifth anniversary of Patek Philippe’s entry into China and the inauguration of its Boutique in Shanghai. The model’s rarity is unparalleled - it was created as a limited series of 25 pieces only. It displays a striking rose dial that is further complemented by black oxidized markers, similar to that of the steel reference 5004. A hobnail bezel furthermore adds flair to this incredibly attractive timepiece.
Previously only known to the horological cognoscenti, this model’s appearance on the auction market is unprecedented and a particularly noteworthy occasion.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5399G-010 “Shanghai Edition”
The reference 2438/1 stands as one of Patek Philippe’s most important and elusive creations. Produced in only 60–70 examples across yellow and pink gold, it remains the scarcest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made by the brand, even rarer than its celebrated siblings: the ref. 1518 (281 pieces) and the ref. 2499 (349 pieces). Introduced alongside the ref. 2497 with snap-on caseback, the 2438/1 distinguished itself as the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds, and the very first serially produced waterproof perpetual calendar wristwatch.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A possibly unique and historically important yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with luminous dial, moon phase, center seconds and screw-back case
The present watch is of particular importance. Not only is it an extremely rare first-series example with applied Arabic numerals and dauphine hands, but it is also the only known ref. 2438 to feature a luminous dial. Over time, the dial has developed a superb champagne patina, radiating a warm, golden sunburst tone that adds to its singular character. The hard enamel signature rise with the depth and definition that discerning collectors expect. Its provenance further elevates its significance: originally owned by American financier Dean Witter, founder of Dean Witter & Company—later one of the largest brokerage firms in the United States, namely called Morgan Stanley—the watch is engraved with his name on the caseback. It has since passed through prestigious hands, appearing at Sotheby’s in 2006 and Christie’s in 2011, where it was thoroughly documented.
With its unique luminous dial, exceptional state of preservation, and illustrious provenance, this ref. 2438/1 offers collectors a truly once-in-a-generation opportunity. Absent from the market for over 15 years, it stands as a historical treasure at the very pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar lineage.
ROLEX — An extremely rare and exceptionally well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Big Red” dial, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Launched in the late 1960s, references 6263 and 6265 replaced the first Oyster Cosmograph model, 6240. Compared to the first generation of the Cosmograph Daytona, the model featured screwdown pushers and thus carried the “Oyster” designation on the dial, offering water resistance. The model was offered in either stainless steel or gold and the movement was also upgraded from a Valjoux 722 movement to the more reliable Valjoux 727 movement.
Produced towards the end of the model’s manufacture period, it has not been altered since it left the Rolex factory over forty years ago. The pushers, Oyster Triplock crown and “Big Red” Daytona dial configuration are all characteristics of the manual winding Daytona.The silvered dial is in excellent condition, with luminous dots along the outer ring, all of which are present and intact. The luminous dots have aged with warm patina, matching the hands, and the dial showcases a slight ivory tone. The present watch is in positively pristine condition with thick full lugs and original proportions, the bezel remains intact with minimal signs of ageing. It is further accompanied by Rolex punched Guarantee, product literature, wallet, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.
ROLEX
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
ROLEX — A very well-preserved and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet
The history of the “no crown guards” Submariner is marked by several milestones. Launched in 1953, the very first serially produced Submariner wristwatch carried the designated reference 6204. Displaying pencil hands and luminous numerals, it was an incredibly important aid for dives. Rolex eventually developed other “small crown” models, such as reference 6205, 6536/6538, 6536 and 6536/1, while reference 6538 and 5510 were fitted with a “large” crown. Reference 5508 was the last Submariner to carry the “100m=330ft” depth rating.
The Submariner model is further immortalized on film having accompanied James Bond on multiple secret missions in Dr. No, From Russia With Love, Goldfinger, and Thunderball. Bond’s gadget is disguised as a wristwatch, which is equipped with different spying abilities.
This reference 5508 is a superlative example. The timepiece is offered in an excellent state of preservation, and the dial is in incredibly glossy condition with an incredible mirror-like finish. It barely displays any sign of aging. The case retains strong bevels and the numbers between the lugs are crisp and visible. As an even nicer touch, it still retains its original red triangle bezel and “Big Logo” bracelet.
ROLEX — An extremely elusive, attractive and well-preserved yellow gold automatic calendar wristwatch with center seconds, bloodstone dial, diamond-set indexes, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year 1992
Reference No. 18238,casebackstamped18200
Movement No. 5’430’708
Case No. E842096
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Automatic,cal.3155,31jewels
Synonymous with timeless grandeur, the Rolex Day-Date model offers a myriad of dials, bracelets, bezels and uses of case materials. Since 1956, it remains one of the most diverse and exciting flagship models the firm has ever produced. Apart from prototype models, the Day-Date has only been cased in precious metals, attesting to the gravity of its eminence.
The present reference 18238 features an incredibly exotic and striking bloodstone dial that is defined by its forest green hue and playfully striking copper freckling throughout. The material perfectly contrasts with the warm gold case and round diamond markers for a powerful aesthetic result.
Exceptionally well-preserved, the present example boasts sharp finishes to the edge of the lugs and crisp hallmarks. Bearing an “E” serial, this ref. 18238 from 1992 further accompanied by its original punched warranty and presentation box.
ROLEX
Ref. 18238 Day-Date “Bloodstone”
ROLEX — A very well-preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee, presentation box and outer packaging
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1983
Reference No. 6263
Movement No. 139’54
Case No. 7’426’681
Model Name CosmographDaytona
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Manual,cal.727,17jewels
Inheriting the black acrylic bezel and screw-down pushers of ref. 6240, but upping the ante with the chronometer COSC-certified (as the dial proudly proclaims) calibre 727, reference 6263 is a cornerstone of Rolex history and one of the most beloved Daytona models of all times.
A sports timepiece by vocation, the Cosmograph Daytona was intended to be used by professional racers and sportsman in general - as such, it was made mostly in stainless steel. Gold examples - with their heavy, eye-catching and soft gold cases - fall completely out of this ethos, and thus at the time were notso-warmly received. This translates today in their scarcity and enormous collectability.
The present example is indeed a representative of this category, and it is furthermore fitted with a champagne dial with black subsidiary counters which perfectly complements the gold case/ black bezel for an enormous aesthetic impact. Furthermore, the present example dons one of the most incredibly well-preserved dial ever seen on this model, featuring flawless luminous accents - wonderfully aged to a charming camel hue - an absolutely unmarred surface, and pristine graphics. As an even nicer touch, it is even accompanied by its Guarantee dated July 31, 1985, product literature, presentation box and outer packaging.
Ref. 6263 Cosmograph Daytona
ROLEX — A stickered, virtually unworn and highly attractive platinum and diamondset Arabic calendar wristwatch with Eastern Arabic numerals, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Rolex has created some of the most surprising, beautiful and unusual Day-Dates for the Arab States in the Gulf. The manufacture’s custom pieces date back to the 1950s, when Rolex fitted Arabic discs to the most luxurious Day-Date watches. Very few “Arabic” Day-Dates were produced during this period, and the earliest examples were almost exclusively cased in platinum.
With the introduction of reference 1804, Rolex produced a Day-Date that completely differed from any “Arabic” Day-Date the firm had ever produced. The watch not only featured an Arabic Day and Date wheel, it even displayed applied Eastern Arabic numerals in lieu of regular Arabic numbers. The watch is named “Scheherazade”, and proudly displayed in Day-Date, The Presidential Rolex by Pucci Papaleo and sold at Phillips’ Glamorous Day-Date sale, lot 24.
Preserved in like-new, and virtually new old stock condition with the original stickers still present throughout, the present watch is accompanied by its Accompanied by Rolex Guarantee dated October 8, 2021, presentation box and outer packaging.
ROLEX — A very well-preserved and highly attractive stainless stee chronograph wristwatch with “Paul Newman” dial and bracelet
Reference 6241 was produced approximately from 1966 to 1969. Scholars estimate that no more than 3000 pieces were produced during the model’s manufacture period, and only a small part of them with “Paul Newman” dials.
Fitted with a black dial and white outer register with red track, the present “Paul Newman” reference 6241 is an impressive specimen preserved in excellent condition. Most examples today show signs of ageing, yet this one is free of blemishes, with the step between the outer track and main portion is distinct. The cherryred “Daytona” designation is striking and pops out from the ebony background. The luminous dots are round, intact and display warm patina, and is incredibly well-preserved for its age. Such beautifully preserved dials hardly ever appear on the market.
Of particular interest is the backstory of the present piece. The consignor is a distinguished gentleman who worked for many years as a high ranking individual in the Kuwaiti government. Also an avid swimmer, he took part in the 1969 Capri-Napoli swimming marathon. The race marked the beginning of Kuwait’s participation in the long distance marathon. One of the victors, he was gifted the present timepiece by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah in recognition of his efforts and contribution. The consignor barely wore the watch, saving it only for special occasions. As such, the Daytona is presented in excellent condition as it was unused for many years. Other details on this timepiece include the Mk 1 bezel, which is correct for reference 6241 and gives the watch a lot of presence on the wrist. The case features bold proportions and a crisp finish on the caseback, making the present watch an incredibly collectible trophy.
ROLEX
Ref. 6241 Oyster Cosmograph “Paul Newman”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare and attractive platinum perpetual chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour indication, leap year indication, certificate of origin, additional case back, setting pin and presentation box, single sealed
Manufactured from 2004 to 2011, reference 5970 was Patek Philippe’s very last perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch series to use a Lemania 2310 based movement. With the introduction of successor reference 5270, Patek Philippe used its own in-house movement.
The present watch is brand new and single sealed. It is offered with an additional caseback, setting pin and its original certificate. It’s today an icon that represents the golden age of watch making.
Please note the present watch comes with its CITES certificate and can as such be transported with its alligator strap
PATEK PHILIPPE — An unusual and attractive asymmetric yellow gold wristwatch designed by Gilbert Albert
Gilbert Albert is beloved for his novel and daring designs that completely departed from the quotidian during the 1950s and 1960s. In 1955, Patek Philippe teamed up with the designer to produce a series of unusual wristwatches. The talented artist took inspiration from modern artists such as Brancusi and Mondrian, and his daring and unconventional case designs are considered as cutting-edge today as they were 60 years ago. Albert is known for his unconventional use of materials like coral, pearls and meteorite. The works have a harmony with nature in their form and color.
There are few wristwatch models that have achieved a cult status like Gilbert Albert’s Patek Philippe designs. Having resided in a private collection for many years, this watch is believed to be one of only 24 examples of reference 3424 in yellow gold with sector lines to have ever graced the auction market. With a crisp hallmark on the lug, the watch has been preserved in excellent condition.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3424 “Gilbert Albert”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A spectacular and highly complex platinum perpetual calendar minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with small seconds, moon phases, leap year, day and night indication, additional solid caseback, setting pin, certificate of origin and presentation box
A masterpiece of technical mastery and design, Patek Philippe’s ref 5207 was at the time of its launch, in 2008, amongst the top three most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the firm.
Developed over a 5-year period by Patek Philippe’s finest watchmakers and engineers, featuring a minute repeater and a tourbillon with an instantaneous perpetual calendar with leap year, day/night indication and moon phases all in a 41mm diameter case, the reference is simply stunning. With three apertures on the top of the dial indicating day, date and month, the legibility is further enhanced through a perfectly symmetrical dial layout. With moon phases at 6 o’clock and an additional two apertures one on each side indicating day/night and leap years, it is an easy to read and charming Grand Complication timepiece.
Powered by the firm’s in-house cal. R TO 27 PS QI, the impressive movement is composed of 549 individual parts with an accuracy of -1/+2 seconds per day.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A spectacular and highly complex platinum perpetual calendar minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with small seconds, moon phases, leap year, day and night indication, additional solid caseback, setting pin, certificate of origin and presentation box
The case is also a masterpiece itself, a meeting of past and present. Elegant and attractive in all angles, the three-body case features a slider on the left. As a contrast, the hollowed and engraved lugs give the reference a modern aesthetic, highlighting the concave polished bezel.
The timepiece delivers everything one can expect from a Patek Philippe Grande Complication: an elegant design, legible dial, beautifully finished movement and crisp delicate chimes. Discontinued in 2018 the ref 5207 is so rare that only 15 models have ever come to the auction market in close to two decades. In excellent condition the present piece is accompanied by its full set of accessories.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An extremely attractive, scarce and impressive 18k pink gold automatic wristwatch with center seconds, hack seconds feature, skeletonized dial, “Frosted Gold” case decoration, multicolor sapphire-set bezel, double balance wheel movement, integrated bracelet, purchase document, warranty and box
Manufacturer AudemarsPiguet
Year 2021
Reference No. 154120R.YG.1224OR.01
Movement No. BD1226
Case No. MN7869U
Model Name RoyalOakFrostedGoldDoubleBalanceWheel Openworked“Rainbow”
While until a few years ago gem-setting was somewhat overlooked by the collecting community, nowadays it has been fully recognized among the most complicated and attractive decorative techniques. Pioneered by few brands in the early 1970s – and on sport watches by Rolex in the 1990s – rainbow setting is now counted among the ultimate levels of gem-setting. The difficulty of procuring stones with the exact color gradient required for a flawless result is enormous – and one of the reasons for the scarcity of these watches. Furthermore when analyzing the setting, one can appreciated the asymmetric cut of the gems, designed so that the rainbow effect seamlessly integrates itself with the angular octagonal design of the bezel: a true masterpiece both in design and in execution as well.
Powering this beast is AP’s signature double balance wheel movement. While the intuition behind it is quite straightforward (two balance wheels double the inertial mass, ensuring better timekeeping), the technical challenges involving friction and energy management that had to be overcome in order to create the calibre are enormous. Offered in practically “as new” condition and complete of its Warranty and even purchase documents, the present timepiece is an icon of modern watchmaking that any serious collector should not miss the opportunity to acquire.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE — A highly attractive and rare limited edition white gold orbital flying tourbillon wristwatch with Skychart, Zodiac calendar, 24-hour display, month indication, warranty and presentation box, numbered 2 of a limited edition of 28 pieces
— A unique and appealing diamond-set yellow gold minute repeating pocketwatch with polychrome enamel dial
Manufacturer RichardDanersforGübelin Year 1988
Reference No. 18D
Movement No. 224’735
Case No. 224’735
Material 18kyellowgold,diamondsandenamel
Calibre Manual,cal.13’’’,29jewels
Dimensions 43.5mm.diameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
18,000–36,000
$22,900–45,800
€19,300–38,600
Stating that the dial of this pocket watch is a visual enchantment is an understatement to say the least. Upon closer inspection one will notice for example that it uses only one hand to indicate the time during a full 24-hour revolution, while a small trigger on the righthand side of the case reveals this piece is also a minute repeater.
Bearing the name of the prestigious Swiss-based, family-owned, jewelry and watch retailer founded in 1854 and that has today become a Swiss powerhouse selling the most prestigious watch brands, the present watch was designed and built by Richard Daners, one of the most talented and respected modern watchmakers who executed unique commissions for Gübelin. He is famous for his work in restoring and creating ultra-complicated timepieces, his specialty being the tourbillon, the most famous being one of the world’s first triple axis tourbillons.
The present watch is a unique piece as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives. Indicating time via a single hand on a 24-hour basis, this feature obliges the owner to trigger the minute repeater in order to know how many minutes have elapsed. The intricate flinqué enamel dial is a work of art in its own right and a vision of beauty and grace. Each hour is represented by a specific color that gently graduates in hue to mimic the color spectrum. The tones here range from a vibrant and intense yellow, to orange and deep red that slowly morph to mauve, blue and chartreuse green and then back to yellow.
Where normally a cloison -or gold wire- should be used to separate each color, the enamel artist did without them and undertook the painstaking and almost impossible task of applying each color individually with the delicate result of each color subtly morphing into the next without any overlap.
A unique piece, the present pocket watch presents an incredible opportunity for the savvy connoisseur to own a watch that is both visually and technically (literally) striking.
RICHARD DANERS FOR GÜBELIN
“Rainbow Minute Repeater”
URBAN JÜRGENSEN — An attractive and massive set of two wood presentation boxes with ostrich interior and outer packaging
Manufacturer UrbanJürgensen Year Circa1980
Material Woodandostrich
Dimensions 37cmlength,26.5mmwidthand6.5mmheight Signed Boxandouterpackagingsigned
Estimate
3,000–6,000
$3,800–7,500
€3,200–6,400
Heavy, massive and impressive, the present lot comprising of two presentation boxes are among the most luxurious and important presentation boxes made by Urban Jürgensen. This box is made for the collector who would like to reunite their Urban Jürgensen watches (or any other brand, for the matter) in two presentation boxes to make a true collector’s set. So rare is this combination of ostrich and wood that these boxes have never appeared on the auction market, giving collectors a unique opportunity to truly dress up their collection.
CHRISTIAN KLINGS — A unique, exceptional, large and exquisitely finished yellow gold wristwatch with flying tourbillon regulator, moonphases, power reserve, engine-turned dial
of hand work using traditional tools and techniques- have ranged from a 10-second tourbillon with a free balance escapement, to detent escapements to highly finished time-only watches with single-beat escapements.
The present watch is a monumental effort of this genius watchmaker, a unique piece having taken over 1500 hours to complete - its centerpiece is without a doubt the very large flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock clock, a mechanical triumph of curves, elegance and finishing of incredible level.
Christian Klings is a revered name of independent watchmaking, a discreet watchmaker who in the course of a 30 plus years career has made less than 35 watches but his impact has been immense whether with the collecting community or with his fellow watchmakers. Klings is as much an artist as he is a watchmaker and thus focuses on creating bespoke timepieces upon commission from savvy collectors. His creations - with an almost unheard of degree
And yet, the true surprise yet awaits on the back of the contract: a sketch realized by the master himself detailing the broad strokes of what the watch shall look like. Not only an important and extremely rare example of industrial design and art, but also a testament to a bygone era when rather than being characterized year-long waiting list and the issue of whom to allocate a watch, independent watchmaking was a truly romantic and artisanal undertaking into which only true connoisseurs (on the collectors’ part) and dedicated custodians of the craft (the watchmakers) would venture.
CHRISTIAN KLINGS No. 7 Flying Tourbillon Unique Piece
URWERK — A very rare and unusual limited edition titanium wristwatch with satellite time display, day and night indication, oil change indication, guarantee and fitted presentation box, numbered 16 of a limited edition of 55 pieces
At its core, the watch is equipped with three orbiting hour satellites in planetary motion, displaying time along the right side of the asymmetric dial. Beneath lies a “control board” featuring a day/ night indicator, small seconds, and an ingenious oil-change display that signals when servicing is required. Stability is ensured by a central carousel, maintaining perfect balance and precision across this strikingly original mechanism.
Despite its technical complexity, the UR-110 is remarkably intuitive and legible. The asymmetric layout allows for discreet reading of the time without moving a cuff, while the Grade 5 titanium case offers both strength and stealthy lightness. Produced in a limited run of just 55 pieces, the present example, number 16, features a brushed grey titanium case and luminous dial—a rare opportunity for collectors seeking innovation, rarity, and a bold departure from traditional watchmaking.
DANIEL ROTH — A surprising and elegant platinum jump hour wristwatch with certificate and presentation box, numbered 29 of a limited edition of 30 pieces
The role of Daniel Roth in the rise of interest for independent watchmaking as we know it today cannot be highlighted enough.
Roth was one of the earlier watchmakers who decided to thread his own path and create an eponymous brand. He did so in 1988 immediately imposing and carving his personal design language, most notably the ellipsocurvex case shape, hands with pointed tips and dials with either clou de Paris or vertical guilloché pattern.
The Papillon (or Butterfly) – named due to the dial’s winged designwas launched in 1998 in celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary and the very last watch bearing the Daniel Roth name where the man himself was involved. It was made in a limited edition of 250 pieces: The most exclusive edition was platinum, such as the present example, of which only 30 pieces were made. 110 pieces in pink gold and 110 in white gold were also produced.
The Papillon features a digital jump hour display at 12 o’clock, the minutes are indicated via a semi-circle indication on the lower section and once the small hand reaches the 60 minute mark another hand appears at the 0 indication across. A large seconds indication sits in the centre of the dial above the minutes indicator.
DANIEL ROTH
Ref. C317 Papillon “Full Set”
— An uber rare and exclusive pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with handcrafted “Regence Circulaire” dial, remontoir d’égalité, deadbeat seconds, and power reserve part of a 20 pieces limited edition
François-Paul Journe launched his namesake brand in 1999 under the motto “Invenit et Fecit”—Latin for “invented and made”— introducing the Tourbillon Souverain Remontoire d’Égalité, known simply as the “T.” In 2003, he elevated this creation further with the “TN” or Tourbillon Nouveau, officially titled the Tourbillon Souverain Remontoire d’Égalité avec Seconde Morte.
The seconde morte, or “deadbeat seconds,” is a poetic and technically demanding complication in which the seconds hand appears to pause and jump precisely once per second, even as the escapement continues to beat smoothly in the background. Combined with the constant force remontoire, the result is a tourbillon built for extraordinary precision. Fitted with an 18k pink gold movement and cased in either platinum or pink gold, the 40mm Tourbillon Souverain was produced until 2018, marking the end of a defining chapter in Journe’s early work.
F.P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain “Régence Circulaire”
F.P. JOURNE
F.P. JOURNE — An uber rare and exclusive pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with handcrafted “Regence Circulaire” dial, remontoir d’égalité, deadbeat seconds, and power reserve part of a 20 pieces limited edition
Among the most visually striking and exceptionally rare versions of the TN is the Tourbillon Souverain Régence Circulaire, produced in a limited series of just 20 pieces—10 with rose gold cases and engraved white gold dials, and 10, like the present watch, with pink gold cases and matching pink gold dials. Its most captivating feature is the intricately hand-engraved dial, inspired by geometric motifs from the French Régence period of the early 18th century. Each dial took a Geneva-based artisan two full days to complete. Uber rare, this example is the first of its kind—with both pink gold case and dial—to appear on an international auction room.
F.P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain “Régence Circulaire”
H. MOSER & CIE X MB&F — An avant-garde and daring stainless steel left-handed tourbillon wristwatch with cylindrical balance spring, icy blue fumé dial, and presentation box part of a limited edition of 15 pieces
Manufacturer H.Moser&CieXMB&F Year Circa2020
Reference No. 1810-1205
Movement No. 200’024’006
Case No. No.200121’988
Model Name H.MoserxMB&FEndeavourCylindricalTourbillon
Released in 2020, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is the result of a bold collaboration between H. Moser & Cie and MB&F. The watch quickly captured attention in the world of independent watchmaking, combining Moser’s refined mechanical expertise with MB&F’s signature futuristic aesthetic. This fusion is most evident in the domed sapphire crystal—an element inspired by MB&F’s LM1—that creates the space needed for Moser’s cylindrical tourbillon to take visual and technical center stage.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely rare and early yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, 24-hour indication, “First Series” dial and box
The Patek Philippe ref. 3940 was first released in 1985. Realised in different variants ranging from yellow, pink and white gold to platinum, this reference was predominantly encased in yellow gold and had enjoyed a long and triumphant production run which only ceased in 2007.
The present ref. 3940J from circa 1985 bears a movement numbered 770’057 that belongs to the “First Series” production. With the first 25 pieces made for Zurich based retailer Beyer considered a limited edition “pre-Series”, the first “standard production” iteration of this model begins with movement 770’025, making this movement the 33rd examples made.
The most apparent feature of a First Series 3940 is the dial featuring sub-registers with vertical “walls”, a detail later substituted by a gentle slope. It is little known, however, that there are 3 versions of the First Series dial, two made internally by Stern, and one made externally by Singer.
Stern dial A: the middle line of the Es in the signature is shorter than the top and bottom line; two-tone 24-hour counter.
Stern dial B: The middle line of the Es is about the same length as the other 2, monotone 24-hour counter.
Singer dial: the walls of the subsidiary counters present a rounded junction with subcounter surface (rather than the perfectly 90 degrees merging found on Stern dials), the swiss designation reads . SWISS (Stern dials have no dots).
To celebrate the 150th anniversary of the remarkable partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., the brand released the exemplary annual calendar reference 5150 in 2001.The ref. 5150 features an officer-style case with a hinged caseback and is fitted with an unusual Louis XV-style crown, characterized by elegant curves that evoke a subtle air of nostalgia.
Unique to this reference, the watch presents an aesthetic departure from the firm’s traditional annual calendar design. Under the creative influence of Philippe and Thierry Stern, the month is indicated as a numeral for the first time, rather than in the usual text format. The dial is adorned with an oversized “T” at 12 o’clock, representing the retailer, with the Tiffany & Co. signature elegantly positioned beneath the moon phases. Additionally, the caseback is immaculately engraved with the façade of the original workshop in Geneva that the two brands shared during the 1860s.
Beyond all Tiffany reference in the case, the brand is also evoked in the name of the model - because indeed ref. 5150 is one of the very few - possibly the only - Patek Philippe reference which bears a distinct name: the self-explicatory “T150”. The T150 was produced in a limited edition of 150 examples each in yellow, white, and pink gold.
Offered in excellent condition, the present ref. 5150 in white gold celebrates one of the most legendary partnerships in the history of watchmaking and combines two of the most respected, admired and envied names in the market.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An unusual and exquisite pink gold wristwatch with fancy lugs
Reference 2553 is one of the most unusual shape watches by Patek Philippe. Defined by its angular case design and unusual lugs, it was launched in the mid 1950s (1953 or 54). Its design manages to grant the watch a remarkable wrist presence notwithstanding its conservative dimensions, and it represents an example of how Patek Philippe used shape wristwatches as canvas for their creativity - in opposition to the much more restrained approach they employed at the time for the design of their round watch. Other examples of this trend are the “Tour Eiffel” (ref 2441), the “Marylin” (ref 2442) and the “Manta ray” (ref. 2554).
Reference 2553 appears to be one of the most elusive representatives of the category, with less than 20 examples known from the auction market.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very rare
gold automatic annual calendar officier wristwatch with moonphases, engraved caseback and box, made for the
PATEK PHILIPPE — A charming and scarce yellow gold worldtime pocket watch with presentation box
Reference 605 represents the Patek Philippe pocket incarnation of the World Time (Heures Universelles) mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Between 1930 and 1964, Cottier delivered to Patek Philippe 95 modified 17-170 movements (considered one of the best time only movements of its time), most of them employed in ref. 605, rendering this an astoundingly rare model with a total output below 100 pieces.
The present example impresses with its incredible condition. Obviously hardly ever used, the timepiece appears to be in superb condition in all of its parts, to the point that it can be considered a “scholarly” piece which allows the beholder to admire the original proportions of the case and details of the dial in absolutely unmarred state. The satin finish to the back is strong, the hallmark to the bow crisp and a layer of oxidation is present. The city ring moves smoothly and correctly and satisfyingly snaps into place, indicating no buildup of debris underneath the bezel.
The reference 5070 enjoys a unique position in Patek Philippe’s history as one of the largest watches the brand produced and the first, last and only pure chronograph to use a modified Lemania 2310-based ébauche - before Patek Philippe switched to their inhouse caliber with the introduction of the reference 5170.
A worthy and highly anticipated successor to the classic reference 1463 chronograph, which was removed from production in the 1960s, when released in 1998 the 5070 also featured a waterresistant case with a screw-down case back. First released in 18K yellow gold with a black dial, like the present example, the manufacture drew inspiration for the design of the 5070 from a unique, split-seconds chronograph wristwatch from the early 1950s: the extraordinary reference 2512, which measured at an incredible 46.2mm in diameter with influences from the Art Deco period and large aviator’s watches. The reference 2512 is currently housed in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Later produced in white gold, rose gold, and platinum, the yellow gold reference 5070 was discontinued soon after its launch, yet is the most faithful to the original design inspiration, and furthermore one of the versions that arguably pack the strongest aesthetic punch - in this case thanks to the bold contrast of black dial and gold case.
The present Patek Philippe chronograph from 1999 is offered for the first time at auction and is accompanied by its original Certificate of Origin and presentation box.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very fine and attractive pink gold chronograph wristwatch with long baton numerals Σ
The present pink gold example of reference 130 not only impresses with its rare case material and wonderful condition, but it furthermore sports one of the most unusual dials found in the reference. The model is most usually seen with Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 and short baton numerals for the rest, or with Roman numerals at 12 and 6 and dot numerals for the rest. Many other dial variations are known though, including sector dials, Breguet dials, and variations of the 2 above mentioned designs.
An example of the former category, the present dial features Roman numerals at 12 and 6 (instead of the Arabic ones more commonly found in conjunction with baton numerals) and thin long baton numerals which at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock arrive to graze the edge of the subsidiary dials. The difference with short baton dials is apparent and enormous, granting the watch a markedly more refined look - in contrast with the more sporty looks of short baton numerals. Reference 130 was the first serially produced Patek Philippe chronograph. Launched in 1934, some of the earliest examples were custom-ordered and occasionally featured a Victorin Piguet ébauche. Shortly thereafter, the model was powered by a heavily modified Valjoux movement, cal. 13 130, designed to fit within the reference 130 case.
The gold cases were crafted by one of the finest casemakers of the time, Emile Vichet, marked by the number 9 inside a key stamped on the inner case back.
ThePatekPhilippereference2499iswithoutadoubtoneofthemost iconic watches of the 20th century.
In production for 34 years, the reference 2499 succeeded the reference 1518 beginning in 1951 and was made in only 349 pieces (approximately 10 units per year). Departing from the very Calatrava-inspired, frill-less design of its parent model, reference 2499 sports instead a remarkably large-for-the-time case, a game of concave and convex surfaces on its band and bezel, sculpted lugs… It truly was a much more architectural watch, with the final result incredibly managing to convey stately importance merged with a hint of whimsy. Such remarkable design consecrated the model as one of the most attractive watch models ever. Such attractiveness combined with its rarity went on to make it a “grail model” since the very beginning of wristwatch collecting. By now, it has developed a truly mythical aura and is rightfully considered an “endgame” watch for many experienced collectors.
The reference 2499 can be divided into four series:
- First series: square chronograph pushers, Arabic numerals, tachymeter scale.
- Second series: round chronograph pushers, either baton or Arabic numerals, tachymeter scale.
- Third series: round chronograph pushers, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions without tachymeter scale.
- Fourth series, like the present watch, feature round chronograph pushers, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions, and a sapphire crystal - which prompts a slightly higher bezel with a subtly more prominent wrist presence. Fourth Series examples bear the reference 2499/100.
The present piece is further distinguished both by its condition and by the retailer signature. Gübelin is Lucerne-based watch retailer, widely considered one of the most respected in Switzerland.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499/100 “Gübelin” PATEK
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superbly well-preserved, very rare and extremely collectible yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, retailed by Gübelin
by the retailer signature. Gübelin is Lucerne-based watch retailer, widely considered one of the most respected in Switzerland. Gübelin-signed 2499 are enormously rare: out of the entire production only five pieces are known beyond the present watch, and out of these only four are /100.
Without a doubt, the present watch is one of the best preserved and most unusual iterations of this hallowed model.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 2499/100 “Gübelin”
Reference 1436 is one of the most elegant, rare, important and collectible vintage Patek Philippe models. Shortly after the launch of the chronograph reference 130 in 1934, the company noticed that a split-second version had a potential market. Indeed, the “rattrapante” mechanism was particularly useful for technical purposes, such as timing horse or automobile races, as well measuring scientific experiments. Thus, in 1938 the firm introduced ref. 1436, to the day considered one of the most refined models ever produced by the firm. Not only it represents an ineffable merging of design and technical proficiency, it is furthermore one of the scarcest models made by the firm. Given the difficulty of assembling a split-second movement, research suggests that the total output for the model is approximately 140 examples, produced throughout the reference’s approximate 33 years of manufacture. That means an average of 4 watches per year. This is an exceedingly limited number, even by the production standards of the mid-to-late 20th century.
While earlier example feature a crown which also acts as splitsecond pusher, second generation examples like the present watch feature a co-axial button within the crown, giving the watch a more sporty appeal and render this model unmistakable to the eye of the collector.
Incredibly enough, the present piece represents a higher collecting tier than a “standard” 1436. As apparent at first glance, it indeed bears a Tiffany & Co.-signed dial, accompanied by all the details one would expect to come with such a dial: Tiffany stock number hand-engraved behind the lug, and HOX stamp on the movement certifying it was imported into the USA.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superb, important and extremely scarce yellow gold split-second chronograph wristwatch retailed by Tiffany & Co.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superb, important and extremely scarce yellow gold split-second chronograph wristwatch retailed by Tiffany & Co.
One of the most important collaboration in the history of watchmaking, the relationship between Tiffany and Patek goes back more than one-and-a-half century and resulted in some of the most important timepieces in history. Testament to this iron-clad relationship is the fact that today Tiffany is the only retailer who is allowed to have their name on the dial alongside “Patek Philippe”.
Not only Tiffany-stamped Patek Philippe pieces are some of the most collectible watches on the market, but they are also some of the most difficult to find. Research shows that, for example, less than 10 tiffany-stamped 1436 are known from the public. market. The present piece, last seen in 1988 and reappearing now after nearly 40 years, is one of these rarefied masterpieces.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 1436 “Tiffany & Co.”
DECADE ONE 2015–2025
SESSION 2
9 NOVEMBER 2025, 2PM LOTS 107–213
ROLEX — A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, “explorer dial”, bracelet and Follow the Rainbow caseback engraving with all proceeds going to charity
Manufacturer Rolex
Year 1991
Reference No. 14270
Case No. N440170casebackfurtherengraved “FollowtheRainbow,loveDad”
Introduced in 1989, the reference 14270 succeeded the legendary ref. 1016 and remained in production until 2001. It brought important upgrades, including the caliber 3000 movement and a sapphire crystal—far more durable and scratch-resistant than the earlier plexiglass. While thoroughly modernized, the watch preserved the Explorer’s essence: elegant simplicity, functionality, and the iconic 3-6-9 dial design that traces its lineage back to the very first references 6350 and 6150.
The present watch, however, is no ordinary Explorer. It was the very example featured in our promotional video “Follow the Rainbow”, which unveiled the first Rainbow Daytona offered in our “Reloaded :The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking 1980-1999” auction of 8 November 2024.
The video starts by the main character reading the inscription engraved on the caseback of his watch “Follow the Rainbow, Love Dad” and then setting off to hunt for the original Rolex Daytona Rainbow ref 16599SAAEC.
With the video achieving millions of views across social media, this Explorer I has become one of the most recognizable and celebrated examples of the reference to appear on the market.
Offered at no reserve with all proceeds going to Children Action, a charity foundation based in Switzerland that comes to aid to children in need around the world providing healthcare, education or food amongst other projects.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A luxurious and impressive yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, champagne dial, diamond-set indexes and integrated bracelet
Signed Case,dial,movementandclaspsigned,claspfurther signedbybraceletmaker
Estimate
12,000–20,000
$15,000–25,000
€12,800–21,400
The present example of Audemars Piguet Cobra is an interpreter of the eclectic taste of the 1970s. Not only its massive yellow gold case with integrated woven bracelet is practically an incarnation of the 1970s flair, but the feat is further boosted by the superbly well-preserved satin dial with vertical brushing and diamond-set numerals.
An eclectic era, the seventies never cease to amaze where beautiful, stand out designs populate the decade. From the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Vacheron Constantin 222 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that dominate the modern taste of sports luxury watches, to the extravagant designs like the Piaget Polo, Rolex King Midas all with one thing in common, integrated bracelets. And perhaps for a few of those icons the household name Gerald Genta, including the present Audemars Piguet ‘Cobra’.
Owing the venomous nickname to its flashy design, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5403 was introduced in 1971, a sibling of the Royal Oak ref. 5402 that transformed into a scale-like appearance. Flawlessly comfortable, Genta took integrated bracelet to the next level. Designed with seamlessness and single entity in mind, Genta described it as “magnificent and perfect integration”. The bracelet is composed of ten, very thick polish-braided links gradually widening to embrace the dial.
However, Genta is only one of the great names of watchmaking associated with the present piece. The casemaker stamp 136 within a hammer identifies the case as the work of master casemaker Spillmann (most notable for being the first casemaker entrusted with the execution of the Oyster case by Rolex). The bracelet itself is, unsurprisingly, work of another master artisan: bracelet maker Gilbert Gaschen, identified by the GRG stamp.
BREGUET — A very attractive and rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with lapis lazuli hour and minute track
Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa1995
Reference No. 3237 Movement No. 1041
Case No. 1106E
Material 18kyellowgoldandlapislazuli
Calibre Manual,cal.533,21jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18kyellowgoldBreguetbuckle
Dimensions 36mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
20,000–40,000
$25,000–50,000
€21,400–42,800
Reference 3237 was in production for most of the 1990s, and it is without a doubt a champion of the era, interpreting it beautifully thanks to the coin-edge case and engine-turned dial.
In fact, engine turning is one of the defining design traits of the brand, featuring a history within the company which harkens back to the very first timepieces made by Mr. A.L. Breguet himself. Thus it is not surprising to find such a decoration in this timepiece. What is instead well beyond surprising and closer to mind-blowing is the incredible additional decoration we find on the present watch.
Immediately apparent even at the most cursory glance, the minute and hour tracks are printed in silver over a solid lapis lazuli base. The aesthetic impact of this detail - which comes to dominate and dictate the looks of the entire watch - cannot be overstate, as cannot be overstated the technical achievement of cutting out the lapis lazuli wafer in this very specific and unusual shape.
If looks and technical prowess boost the attractiveness of the piece, its rarity propels it above any other representative of the model. Lapis lazuli is a material hardly ever used by Breguet, making the present watch an incredibly rare specimen.
BREGUET — A complicated and extremely rare yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with guilloche dial, moon phases, leap year indication, certificate of origin and presentation box
Reference 3737 stands among the most fascinating and elusive creations of modern Breguet. Introduced after the landmark ref. 3430 of the 1991 Souscription set, the 3737 - made under the aegis of Daniel Roth - combines two of the most revered complications in watchmaking: the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar. Believed to have been produced in only a handful of examples, it is a true rarity within the brand’s contemporary history. Encased in yellow gold, its aesthetic is defined by a solid gold dial with a brushed outer ring and finely guilloché center, brought to life with Breguet’s unmistakable blued steel hands. Furthermore, amongst the few examples known, to the best of our research this example is the only one featuring blued screws on the movement.
At its heart lies the calibre 567, based on the Lemania cal. 399 minute-repeating movement, with a perpetual calendar module integrated on top. Technically captivating and visually distinctive, the movement is adorned with triple finger bridges and lavish Côte de Genève decoration, embodying both mechanical complexity and refined finishing. A grail of 1990s haute horlogerie, the 3737 also underscores Breguet’s enduring role as one of the true guardians of traditional watchmaking excellence—especially poignant as the firm marks its 250th anniversary this year.
Offered with its original self-winding presentation box and certificate of origin, the present example represents an exceptional opportunity to acquire a historically important, extraordinarily rare, and eminently elegant Breguet complication.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A foundational, extremely scarce and very collectible stainless steel automatic wristwatch with moonphases, date, power reserve indication, integrated bracelet, Certificate and box
Patek Philippe introduced reference 3712/1A in 2005, and it remained in production for approximately one year – some estimate as few as eight months. Originally designed by the world renowned Gerald Genta, the first Nautilus was presented in 1976. The reference 3712/1A with power reserve, date, and moon phase, was at the time of its launch the most complicated version of the Nautilus made by Patek Philippe. The letters following the official name of the self-winding caliber 240 – PS IRM C LU – stand for “petite second” (small seconds), “indication de réserve de marche” (power reserve), “calendrier” (date), and “lune” (moon), all of which are present on the 3712 in an idiosyncratic but somehow harmonious arrangement.
At first glance, the 3712 might appear identical to its successor, the 5712, but there are many subtle differences when the details are examined. Most notably, the 3712 has a slightly smaller case measuring 42mm in diameter as it is constructed using only two pieces compared with the more rounded, tripartite 43mm case of the 5712. The dial of the reference 3712 features wider grooves, or channels, and different hour markers than its successor.
CARTIER — An exceptional and highly attractive limited edition pink gold single pusher chronograph wristwatch, number 16 of a limited edition of 100 pieces
The present Tank Monopoussoir is part of the acclaimed Collection Privée Cartier Paris, and limited to 100 pieces. The geometry of the case is equally stunning, the large rectangular 18k pink gold case is incredibly comfortable to wear on the wrist.
The engraving on the caseback of the watch further confirms that just 100 pieces of the Tank Monopoussoir were manufactured in pink gold of which the present example is number 16.
The timepiece is driven by the calibre 045MC, a THA ébauche that was pioneered by F.P. Journe and was pivotal in the early careers of independent watchmakers like Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter.
CARTIER Ref. 2846 Tank Chronographe Monopoussoir
BREGUET — An elegant and sleek platinum skeletonised tourbillon wristwatch with warranty and presentation box
While the tourbillon is forever linked to Abraham-Louis Breguet— who invented the mechanism in 1801—it wasn’t until 1988 that it appeared in a Breguet wristwatch. That milestone came after Daniel Roth was brought in to revive the historic brand. Immersing himself in Breguet’s archives, Roth designed the reference 3350: a tourbillon wristwatch that proudly featured all the hallmark design elements—Breguet hands, a guilloché dial, and a fluted caseband.
In the 1990s, Breguet introduced the reference 3355, powered by the same esteemed calibre 558 developed under Roth. This model brought a new visual dimension, with a prominent aperture showcasing the tourbillon carriage at the lower part of the dial, while the hours and minutes were offset toward the top. The present example features a platinum skeletonized case with a fully open-worked dial, revealing the movement beneath—adorned with intricate hand-executed filet sauté guilloché.
Superbly elegant, this platinum Breguet tourbillon is offered complete with its Certificate of Origin and presentation box.
Squelette
PATEK PHILIPPE — A dazzling and extremely rare white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet and sapphire hour markers
Born in the turbulent late 1960s, the Golden Ellipse quickly became an icon in a changing world. As the quartz revolution loomed, Patek Philippe—under the leadership of Henri Stern, grandfather of current president Thierry Stern—sought to create a watch that was unmistakably Patek yet modern in spirit, unisex in its appeal, and instantly recognizable as a symbol of true luxury. At a time when mass production made it easy for inexpensive watches to mimic the look of high-end timepieces, the 1968 launch of the Ellipse was perfectly timed. Its bold, elliptical form was simultaneously forward-looking and timeless, setting it apart as a design classic in the purest sense.
By the 1970s, Patek Philippe expanded into jeweled variations of the Ellipse, catering to a growing demand for glamorous and luxurious watches that epitomized the Jet Set era. Manual-winding references such as the 3617 and 3620, introduced in 1976, were especially popular, with their diamond-set dials and mesh bracelets that captured the spirit of the time.
The present reference 3724/4 represents the pinnacle of this aesthetic. With its diamond-set bezel, dial, and fully adorned bracelet, it is a dazzling expression of the Ellipse line and a striking example of Patek Philippe’s ability to merge elegant design with opulent craftsmanship. Truly a statement piece, it reflects both the sophistication of the brand and the exuberant glamour of its era. Furthermore, this manual wind reference features sapphires hour markers and according to our research it is the first to ref. 3724/4, featuring a diamond set bracelet.
F.P. JOURNE — An impressive and distinguished platinum automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with power reserved indication, leap year indication, blue dial and box
Manufacturer F.P.Journe
Year Circa2021
Case No. 380-QP
Model Name OctaQuantiemePerpetualCalendar“BoutiqueEdition”
F.P. Journe launched his first perpetual calendar timepiece as part of the Octa line of watches. In 2013 the model was the object of one of the most remarkable exercises in reinterpretation of recent years, as F.P. Journe introduced a completely new dial architecture: moving away from the quirky retrograde date indication so far employed, the dial now features all calendar indications neatly and symmetrically framed in 4 windows: one for the day, one for the month, and two for the large date. The leap year indication is “hidden in plain sight”: a minuscule third hand indicates the leap year cycle on a small subsidiary dial at the very center of the dial.
Originally defined by an ovoidal metal frame encircling the central part of the flat two-tone dial, in 2020 the collection’s aesthetic canons were revised. It now features a dial with applied numerals on a flat outer track, and guilloché decoration for the center of the dial. Thus, Journe brought the model closer to the style employed in their Souverain line of watches.
That said, the present piece rises above its already incredibly sought-after peers as it is a highly uncommon “Boutique Edition” of the model in platinum with a blue dial, whose rarity matches its outstanding aesthetics. As any serious Journe collector knows, Boutique Edition pieces can only be acquired, as the name implies, at Journe proprietary boutiques, not through ADs. And even within the walls of these revered temples of horology, acquiring a boutique edition is no easy feat, as each boutique receives only a handful of pieces each year in the best case scenario, thus reserving them for their most distinguished clients
URWERK — A very rare and unusual limited edition pink gold chronometer wristwatch with three-dimensional satellite hour display and fine adjustment, and presentation box number 4 of a limited edition of 25 pieces
The design is a blend of industrial character and sculptural geometry. Its bombé, rectangular case features engraved lines across the top, giving it a distinctly mechanical aesthetic. Time is read through a window at the base, where Urwerk’s signature rotating satellite discs display the hours as they sweep across a minute track—an ingenious and instantly legible system that redefined how a watch could communicate time.
On the caseback, a power reserve indicator and subdial for precise minute-by-minute setting underscore the model’s technical ambition. A fine adjustment screw even allows the wearer to regulate the watch’s accuracy by up to ±30 seconds per day.
Number 04 of just 25 pieces made, the present pink gold UR-103 is preserved in excellent condition and stands as a milestone in independent watchmaking—both rebellious and deeply refined.
YOSUKE SEKIGUCHI — A superb artisanal pink gold wristwatch with black enamel dial, certificate of origin and box
The story of Le Locle (Switzerland) based, Japanese born Yosuke Sekiguchi is one of resilience and perseverance.
Wanting to be a watchmaker in Switzerland, Sekiguchi left his native Japan at the age of 23 and moved to France to learn the language and then move to Switzerland to manufacture watches. However, obtaining a work visa in Swirtzerland proved impossible for someone with no formal training and therefore he tried to enroll in watchmaking school in Morteau (France) which he could not attend for administrative reasons. Not one to give up, he moved in with one of his friends who was attending the course who passed on the lessons and homework.
After completing the coursework, but not qualified as he did not graduate from the school, he was hired by Manufacture La Joux-Perret on his friend’s recommendation and could finally move to Switzerland. Working mainly on chronographs he later moved to Christophe Claret specializing in assembly and repair of complicated watches. Sekiguchi set up his ateliers in 2020 and presented his first model, the present “Primvère “ (translating as Primrose). Sekiguchi’s inspiration is clearly rooted in 19th Century horology and most notably by a Jules Jürgensen pocket watch. Whereas visually the Primrose movement may look historical, it is a modern interpretation with painstaking and highly hand finished bridges and components.
The superb black enamel dial is made of two pieces. Black enamel dials are amongst the most difficult and daunting to make as due to the color even the slightest imperfection shows explaining the high rejection rates. The Sekiguchi Primvère makes its auction debut with the present model, the first from one of the most exciting artisanal watchmakers of the new generation.
YOSUKE SEKIGUCHI Primvère
DE BETHUNE
— A groundbreaking and bold black zirconium and titanium semi-skeletonized diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, power reserve indication, special blue photoluminescent material, manual dial lighting system, floating lugs, certificate and presentation box
The DB28 has been the firm’s staple flagship model since its initial launch, and the collection has broadened in recent years with the release of the present DB28GS Grand Bleu in 2019. It is De Bethune’s first-ever diver’s watch, and to the best of our knowledge, less than 50 pieces of the present reference DB28GSV2AN have been produced to date.
Equipped with De Bethune’s signature floating lugs, the timepiece allows for optimal wrist comfort as the watch has a light profile. It also boasts a high robustness with the black zirconium and titanium case. The case middle of the watch is black zirconium, while the bezel and case back are titanium. Adding to the properties of corrosion resistance, durability and strength, the black zirconium is heated to feature a black oxide layer which renders exceptional scratch resistance.
Unlike the traditional diver’s watch, the scale for elapsed time is not found on the rotating bezel of the present watch, but rather, it is featured on the crystal inside the bezel, which rotates with the bezel. This allows for the scale to light up when the button positioned at 6 o’clock is pressed, activating 4 LED lights fitted at the quarters of the dial. In addition, the dial also features a special luminous material on the minute ring and rotating bezel named Blue Moon, which is a new kind of Super-Luminova based on De Bethune’s signature heat-blued titanium that glows n an irresistible blue when in darkness
ROLEX — A highly rare and attractive white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with center seconds, date, guarantee and presentation box
Even in a world defined by endless waiting lists and strict allocation systems, there are still levels of rarity. While certain sports models have become undeniably collectible, the true endgame lies with the elusive “out of catalogue” pieces. These are the watches that never appear in Rolex’s public collection, produced in extremely limited numbers and reserved exclusively for the maison’s most important clients—offered only if one is deemed worthy. The present watch is one such example.
Lavishly set with baguette-cut diamonds on its bezel, this YachtMaster is an “off-catalogue” model released in 2021, available only to Rolex’s very best clients. Preserved in excellent condition and accompanied by its original accessories, it represents a dazzling opportunity to acquire one of the brand’s most exclusive and striking sports watches.
ROLEX — An exceptionally well-preserved, rare, and beautiful 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with guarantee and presentation box
Thepresentwatchis asuperlativeexample ofreference6238.It ismostnotablycased in14Kyellowgold, indicatingitwasmade forexporttotheUnited States.Fitting,asthe movementbridge isstampedwiththe exportmarkROW, indicatingitwasto bedeliveredtothe Americanmarket. Theastounding conditionofthiswatch furthermoresetsit apartfromitspeers. Featuringfull,thick lugsandawidebezel,itsproportionsareexcellent.Inaddition, therearetwo sharp hallmarks punched beneath the lugs that are incredibly crisp. A light layer of patina has developed throughout the case, indicating that it has been untouched for a long period of time. The “transitional” dial, which is correct for the serial number, is exceptional. It features full luminous dots that display warm patina, matching the hands. Most importantly, it displays a “Miles” tachymeter scale, which is correct for American market watches. Equally impressive is the presence of its original guarantee and presentation box - an important accessory that most existing examples do not retain today.
ROLEX Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
Showcasing a bezel set with 44 brilliant diamonds and pavé dial with 240 diamonds, reference 6269 is among the most regal, glamorous and luxurious Cosmograph models ever made. Research shows that Rolex made no more than thirty pieces in total, making it one of the rarest Rolex models ever made. This, combined with its sheer beauty and historical importance, makes it an ultimate trophy for many collectors.
Whileanyexampleofreference6269shouldrightfullybeconsidered agrailpiece,thepresentfresh-to-the-marketexampleissetabove therestoftheproductionbyitsback,whichbearstheOmaniroyal emblem–theKhanjar–engravedandfilledwithredenamel.Indeed, reference 6269 (and its sister reference 6270) was created thanks to the spur of one of Rolex’s most important patrons ever: His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said of Oman (1940-20200).
A visionary collector, he is behind some of the most collectible timepieces made by Rolex (and also by other brands). It is speculated that after creating a few pieces of the two models for the Sultan, Rolex also realized a small series – as shown by models sold in locations such as Spain (see Phillips Watch Auction One, lot 149). This appears to be one of the very few example made on specific request of the Sultan and made their way to the Omani court. Two other examples of ref. 6269, beyond this discovery, are known to bear a khanjar to the back, albeit potentially none of them features the red version. One example was sold with simple engraved Khanjar in Geneva in 2023 (no. 8’761’105), the other one was sold in Geneva in 2013 (no. 8’397’326).
ROLEX Ref. 6269 Cosmograph Daytona “Khanjar”
ROLEX — An opulent, extremely rare, enormously collectible and impressive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with diamond-set bezel, diamond pavé dial, sapphire-set numerals, red khanjar to the back and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
ROLEX — An opulent, extremely rare, enormously collectible and impressive yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with diamond-set bezel, diamond pavé dial, sapphire-set numerals, red khanjar to the back and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa1986
Reference No. 6269insidecasebackstamped6263
Movement No. 16’728
Case No. 8’969’269,insidecasebackstamped withthecasenumber
The business continued into the 20th Century with the production notably of chronographs of which the present lot is a stellar example. Preserved in absolute time capsule condition the watch displays a strong most probably unworn steel case, with strong crisp downturned lugs and fine bezel. The condition of the two tone dial is particularly remarkable with hardly any signs of ageing.
The timepiece not only boast its original leather strap but has the original hangtag is still attached. It is particularly remarkable to still be able to find timepieces made over 80 years ago and that have remained untouched in their original condition.
HEUER — A fine and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with two-tone silvered dial and red tachymeter scale
Manufacturer Heuer Year Circa1965
Reference No. 2447T
Case No. 77’738
Model Name Carrera12
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,Valjoux72,17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainlesssteelbuckle
Dimensions 35mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
4,000–8,000
$5,000–10,000
€4,300–8,600
Born on the racetrack in 1963, the Carrera reference 2447 is one of Heuer’s most iconic designs and was Jack Heuer’s most passionate creation. Over the course of production, a variety of dials were available; panda, reverse panda, with or without tachymeter scale. The size of subdials and shape of hour markers also changed. While early dials can be categorized with the SWISS only insignia at 6 o’ clock, variants from 1965 onwards will bear a T SWISS indicating the use of tritium for the luminous materials.
Swissair, the former national carrier of Switzerland, commissioned Longines to create a practical and highly legible wristwatch for its pilots. The result was a robust aviator’s tool, distinguished by its oversized pilot-style case, prominent onion crown, and a bold 24-hour dial designed to ensure clarity in-flight. These watches were never offered commercially; instead, they were reserved exclusively for Swissair pilots and staff.
GRAND SEIKO — A historically important and extremely well-preserved yellow gold cushionshaped observatory chronometer wristwatch with center seconds and “linen-finished” case
GRAND SEIKO — An extremely well-preserved yellow gold cushion-shaped wristwatch with center seconds and “linen-finished” case
Manufacturer GrandSeiko
Year Circa1970
Reference No. 4520-8010
Case No. 960’250
Model Name 070’459
Material 18kyellowgold
Calibre Manual,cal.4520A,jeweled
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Dimensions 36mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
2,000–3,000
$2,500–3,800
€2,100–3,200
The reference 4520-8010 is often referred to as the “little brother” to the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, due to its featuring both the same case and movement as that found in the legendary wristwatch (see lot 127).
In the 1960s, Seiko’s pursuit of horological excellence reached a pinnacle with its remarkable performance at the Neuchâtel and Geneva Observatory chronometer competitions. The Japanese manufacturer stunned the watchmaking world by securing top placements in the wrist chronometer category, showcasing the precision of its calibers against Switzerland’s finest. The Grand Seiko reference 4520-8010 is a direct descendant of this legacy, incorporating the exact same movement—caliber 4520A—as the celebrated Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer. This shared DNA underscores its historical significance as a bridge between Seiko’s competition triumphs and the establishment of Grand Seiko as a hallmark of Japanese haute horlogerie.
The reference 4520-8010 exudes a timeless elegance. The dial, adorned with applied baton indexes and dauphine hands, offers exceptional legibility. With its applied Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, and Grand Seiko logo at 6 o’clock, the watch highlights the brand’s emerging identity during this transformative period. At the heart of this timepiece lies the hand-wound caliber 4520A, a 25-jewel, highbeat movement operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, directly descended from the movements Seiko submitted to the Neuchâtel Observatory competition in 1967.
With only a limited number of Reference 4520-8010 watches produced, this Grand Seiko is a scarce offering on the auction market. Its shared case and movement with the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer make it a unique proposition for collectors seeking a piece that encapsulates Seiko’s groundbreaking achievements in the late 1960s. The watch’s historical context and technical brilliance position it as a cornerstone of Japanese watchmaking, predating the global rise of the Grand Seiko brand by half a century.
GRAND SEIKO — An early and historically significant stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Chinese day wheel
The present example is offered in unpolished condition, with a well-preserved case exhibiting sharp edges and original finishes, and to this day sports its original crystal. The dial retains its deep black luster, with luminous markers showing consistent patina, and the chronograph functions flawlessly. Accompanied by its original stainless steel bracelet, this watch is a complete and authentic representation of Seiko’s pioneering spirit. As the earliest known surviving example, its January 1969 production date places it at the very genesis of the automatic chronograph era. Furthermore, it has a Chinese day wheel, referencing the original “Bruce Lee” model. The historical and cultural significance of the Seiko 61396010 makes this lot a cornerstone for any serious collection.
CARTIER PARIS LONDRES — A rare belle epoque nephrite, gold and diamond-set pendulette clock with 8 day movement and presentation box
Manufacturer CartierParisLondres
Year Circa1905
Case No. 151’309
Material 18kgold,nephriteanddiamonds
Calibre Manual,jeweled
Dimensions 60mmlengthand40mmlength
Signed Dialsigned,casenumbered
Estimate
12,000–24,000
$15,300–30,500
€12,900–25,800
Accessories
AccompaniedbyCartierpresentationbox.
It was soon after Fabergé’s debut at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900 that Cartier created pieces inspired by the Russian jeweler. Carter’s creation during the Belle Époque is characterized by the use of guilloché enamel, rose cut diamonds, millegrain finishing, and the use of garland and floral motifs. During this period, Cartier also worked with materials found in the Siberian mineral deposits such as nephrite, lapis lazuli and agate.
The present clock is made very much in the the style of the Belle Époque period, with its nephrite case and a garland style scroll motif on the top and the bottom, as well as the laurels on each side of the clock. On top of this intricate work, rose-cut diamonds and also placed in places, notably on the “X” on the front. Most interestingly, the garland style soon became Cartier’s trademark style to differentiate the house from its competitor Fabergé.
CARTIER PARIS — A rare and attractive onyx square desk clock with lapis lazuli dial, diamond-set indexes, turquoise decoration and 8 day movement
Manufacturer CartierParis Year Circa1930
Movement No. 41’456
Case No. 1214,2886andstockno.92954
Material Blackonyx,lapislazuli,diamondsandturquoise
Calibre Manual,15jewels
Dimensions 65mmlengthand65mmwidth
Signed MovementandcasesignedEuropeanWatch&ClockCo. Inc.France,casewithCartierhandstampednumbers
First created in the early 1900s, the desk clock was Cartier’s perfect canvas to showcase its unbridled creativity. The desk clock is a result of two guiding principles - merging a beautifully and intricately crafted work of art with horology.
The creation of the desk clock perfectly coincides with Cartier’s first foray into the Far East. In 1901, Louis Cartier tasked one of his best salesmen, Jules Glaenzer, to asses its potential as a commercial center. Coming back, Glaenzer not only discovered another culture a world apart, but had also filled his pockets with curiosities, gems and treasures from the Far East. What started as a commercial trip turned into one of the biggest cultural inspirations for the illustrious jeweler.
Created in circa 1930, the present example is crafted in onyx, with a beautiful lapis lazuli dial to the center. Rose-cut diamonds are scattered throughout, making up the numerals on the dial giving an incredibly glamorous appearance. The unparalleled condition and quality of the present desk clock underlies its importance. It was during the 1920s and 1930s that Cartier was arguably at its most productive, manufacturing pieces of unsurpassed quality and ingenuity
CARTIER — An elegant and unusual white gold rectangular wristwatch with Roman numerals
Cartier has long been synonymous with Parisian glamour, bold creativity, and seductive design, and the present watch embodies that spirit in the most distinctive way.
When wristwatches first appeared in the early 20th century, they were little more than pocket watches with lugs soldered on. Cartier broke convention by introducing shaped cases—Tonneau Tortue, and Tank—that would become milestones of horologica design.
The present example, however, is no ordinary model, but a rarely found Rectangulaire. Produced in the 1970s, it features a rare rounded case without lugs, most likely retailed by Cartier Paris, as confirmed by the crisp eagle head hallmark on the case. Its extra-slim profile and integrated leather strap ensure it sits beautifully on the wrist, while the dial is distinguished by an unusual Cartier signature font. Even rarer is the Vacheron Constantin movement, showing how Cartier had outsourced their movements in the past. The present watch is prominently displayed in Cartier White Bianco by Osvaldo Patrizzi, page 189, Antiquorum Editions.
CARTIER
Rectangulaire
CARTIER & AUDEMARS PIGUET — An intriguing and elegant yellow gold special order skeletonized wristwatch, with movement by Audemars Piguet
Manufacturer Cartier&AudemarsPiguet
Year 1956and1968
Movement No. 61’328
Case No. 48’227andfurthermorewithCartierstocknumber014and997
Signed MovementbyAudemarsPiguet,caseandclasp withCartierhandstampednumbers
Estimate
40,000–80,000
$50,000–100,000
€42,800–85,600
Accessories
AccompaniedbyCartierserviceinvoice.
An intriguing and interesting specimen, the present watch is a marriage of two powerhouses: Cartier and Audemars Piguet. This rare wristwatch was originally born as an Audemars Piguet, fitted with the skeletonized movement no. 61328, an elegant caliber 10TS, registered with case no. 7710 and reference 5036BA, and sold in 1956 to Jaeger Paris. The watch was later the subject of an extraordinary transformation: in 1968, Cartier redesigned the case and added the dial, while deliberately leaving the movement
visibleto highlight the technical refinement of Audemars Piguet. A drawing preserved in the Cartier archives, shown in the photo, presents the original design of this model/ watch describing it as “Bracelet Montre Squelette” 1968. The gold hallmark, not of Swiss origin, confirms the French intervention, most likely executed upon request of a distinguished client. Such a personalisation, unique in its kind, reflects the practice of the period, when great Maisons like Cartier would receive movements from prestigious manufactures and reinterpret them through their own aesthetic vocabulary. The present watch, recently serviced by Cartier (as documented by the illustrated receipt), thus represents a rare testimony to this encounter between two legendary maisons: a masterpiece that preserves the purity of the Audemars Piguet movement and the unmistakable signature of Cartier, embodying the very essence of Franco-Swiss haute horlogerie of the 1950s and 1960s.
This watch showcases the distinctive “Eagle’s Beak” case, where the lugs taper into elegant, beak-like points. This sculptural detail lends the piece a striking, architectural presence that collectors find especially captivating.
CARTIER & AUDEMARS PIGUET
Tank Squelette
THE J.P. MORGAN COLLECTING DYNASTY
Few names in American history loom as large as John Pierpont Morgan (1837–1913). The titan of finance was also a voracious collector, amassing more than 20,000 objects in the two decades before his death – books, manuscripts, paintings, sculptures, gemstones, clocks, and watches. His appetite was so expansive that when Tiffany & Co.’s chief gemologist discovered a new variety of pink beryl, he christened it “morganite” in his honor. Morgan catalogued his holdings with the help of British art historian George C. Williamson, producing multi-volume catalogues of everything from Chinese porcelain to miniatures. His collection of several hundred Renaissance and antique watches filled a single, 350-page tome, first issued in 1912 with a deluxe edition printed on Japanese vellum, hand-painted, and bound in gilt leather – today considered among the most valuable horological books in existence.
Morgan’s watches came largely from two important acquisitions: the collections of German dealer Carl Heinrich Marfels and British banker George Hilton Price. Yet he also commissioned contemporary English pocket watches from makers such as Charles Frodsham and, in his final years, J. Player & Son, who delivered his ultimate grand complication in 1909. Upon his death, 250 watches were donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, cementing Morgan’s place as one of history’s greatest patrons of horology.
His son, John Pierpont Morgan Jr. (1867–1943), inherited not only the family bank but also his father’s taste for mechanical art. As the head of J.P. Morgan & Co., he steered the firm through the First World War, arranging unprecedented loans and contracts for the Allied powers. At the same time, he continued the family tradition of commissioning fine English watches, most notably from Charles Frodsham, ordering dozens of complicated pocket watches often engraved and gifted to new partners in the bank. In 1913, he also acquired Cartier’s very first Mystery Clock, a landmark in the Maison’s history. Through both generations, the Morgans used their immense influence and resources to support horology at the highest level, leaving behind a dynasty of collecting that remains unparalleled.
The present example is fitted with a stylish white enamel bezel and frame upon a nephrite base, with rose-cut diamonds in an inner ring on the dial. Gold leaves on the outer rims furthermore add to the design and flair. Its condition is exceptional, with all panels intact. Furthermore, the rock crystal dial and clock itself does not display cracks or fissures. Considering the historical importance and significance of this Modèle A, its appearance at auction marks an important moment in Cartier’s history. Once this example is sold, it is unlikely that another of such caliber and consequence will grace the auction market for years—if ever again.
CARTIER PARIS — A unique, extremely rare and historically important rock crystal, motherof-pearl, yellow gold, nephrite and diamond-set Art Deco mystery clock, the first Mystery Clock made by Cartier and sold to J.P. Morgan Jr
CARTIERPARIS—A unique, extremely rare and historically important rock crystal, motherof-pearl, yellow gold, nephrite and diamond-set Art Deco mystery clock, the first Mystery Clock made by Cartier and sold to J.P. Morgan Jr
Manufacturer CartierParis Year 1912anddeliveredin1913
Case No. 395and6462
Model Name ModelA
Material 18Kyellowgold,rockcrystal,nephriteanddiamonds
J.P. MORGAN JR. (1867–1943): FINANCIER, CONNOISS , AND CUSTODIAN OF TIME
John Pierpont Morgan Jr., heir to one of the most powerful financial dynasties in American history, was not only a pivotal figure in global banking, but also a discerning patron of the arts—with a particular and refined appreciation for horology. Born on September 7, 1867, Morgan Jr. inherited both the immense wealth and cultural sensibilities of his father, J.P. Morgan Sr., a legendary collector of art, manuscripts, and timepieces. Following his father’s death in 1913, J.P. Morgan Jr. assumed control of J.P. Morgan & Co., guiding it through some of the most turbulent financial periods in modern history, including World War I, during which he arranged enormous loans and procurement contracts for the Allied powers.
Among his many private passions was a profound appreciation for fine watches and mechanical objects. Morgan Jr. continued the Morgan family’s patronage of the horological arts, often acquiring pieces that exemplified both technical mastery and timeless elegance - some of the most famous timepieces owned by the Morgan family include several dozen watches from Frodsham and a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. So avid was Morgan Sr that he commissioned a catalog of his timepieces printed on Japanese vellum, with the deluxe version of the first edition included 92 hand-painted and gilded plates depicting reproductions of the watches. A patron of the arts, Morgan Jr. generously endowed various institutions throughout his lifetime, especially The Pierpont Morgan Library and The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
CARTIERPARIS
Model A “J.P. Morgan”
— An historically important, well-preserved, and attractive yellow gold minute repeating split-seconds chronograph open-faced keyless pocket watch with oneminute tourbillon, 60-minute register, and enamel dial, sold to
Elliot Cowdin Bacon was born in 1888, the son of Robert L. Bacon and Martha Waldron Cowdin. He graduated from Harvard in 1910, where he was captain of the University Crew, and later became one of the youngest partners at J. P. Morgan & Co. He also served as a Captain of the 304th Field Artillery, 77th Division, during World War I. After the war, he lived in Manhattan with his wife, Hope L. Norman, and their four children. He passed away in 1924 at the age of 36.
His father, Robert Bacon (1860-1919), was a prominent American statesman and banker. Robert Bacon served as Assistant Secretary of State, then briefly as Secretary of State during the final 38 days of Theodore Roosevelt’s presidency, and later as Ambassador to France. He also had a career in investment banking and was a partner at J. P. Morgan & Co. before entering diplomatic service.
CHARLES FRODSHAM
Split-Seconds Minute Repeating Tourbillon “J. P. Morgan”
CHARLES FRODSHAM
J.P. Morgan Jr.
CHARLES FRODSHAM — An historically important, well-preserved, and attractive yellow gold minute repeating split-seconds chronograph open-faced keyless pocket watch with oneminute tourbillon, 60-minute register, and enamel dial, sold to J.P. Morgan Jr.
This remarkable minute repeating, split seconds chronograph tourbillon is the work of Charles Frodsham. A highly esteemed English watchmaking firm since the latter half of the 19th century. In 1854, Charles Frodsham succeeded Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy as the Superintendent and Keeper of Her Majesty’s Clocks at Buckingham Palace, serving the King, the Prince of Wales, and Queen Alexandra. Following Charles’s passing, his son Harrison Mill Frodsham took control of the firm and incorporated it as Charles Frodsham & Co. Ltd. in 1893. Harrison Mill Frodsham proved to be a skilled horologist and businessman, and the company continued to thrive as a maker of brilliant timepieces.
The present tourbillon split-seconds chronograph pocket watch is part of a series of approximately 45 watches ordered by J.P. Morgan, Jr. between 1898 to 1934 and gifted to partners in the bank or family members. In fact each year Morgan would gift between one to three watches to each new partner.
The inner caseback is engraved” From John Pierpont Morgan to Elliot C. Bacon, to entering the firm of J.P. Morgan & Co., December 31, 1919. As the hallmarks of the watch indicate it was made in 1922 we believe the inscription in the cuvette refers to the date Bacon joined the company. During their production, these watches were among the most intricate and expensive English timepieces available, retailing between £200 and £350.
J.P. Morgan was a powerful American financier and investment banker who dominated American finance during the Gilded Age and the Progressive Era, leading industrial consolidations such as the creation of U.S. Steel and General Electric. J.P Morgan spent a considerable amount of his astounding wealth collecting exceptional books, paintings, objets d’art, and watches.
CHARLES FRODSHAM
Split-Seconds Minute Repeating Tourbillon “J. P. Morgan”
S. SMITH & SON — A superb and incredibly complicated yellow gold hunter cased minute repeating, split second chronograph pocketwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases and tourbillon
Manufacturer S.Smith&Son
Year Circa1900
Movement No. 1900-1
Case No. 1900-1
Material 18kyellowgold Calibre Manual,madebyNicoleNielsen&Co.
The present S. Smith & Son watch from 1900 is an exceptional example of the finest in English horology and a wonderful representation of those who lead the way. Combining a minute repeater,split-secondschronograph,aperpetualcalendarwithmoon phaseandtourbillon,itisatruemasterpiecefromtheturnofthe20th centuryandoneofthemostcomplicatedtimepiecesofitsera.
The lovely white enamel dial with Roman numerals elegantly presents multiple subsidiary dials indicating the day of the week and date, along with running seconds combined with an aperture for the moon phase. Made and signed by Frederick Willis, his dials were of the highest quality used by the very best British makers in their most important watches.
The movement is made by Nicole, Nielsen & Co. who was the leading manufacturer of complicated watches in late 19th century London, and made watches and carriage clocks for leading makers such as Frodsham, but also marketed under their own name. The firm originated in 1840 when Adolphe Nicole, a partner in the firm of Nicole & Capt, Geneva, settled in London. In 1888 the firm was purchased by R.B. North, Nielsen being retained as joint managing director with Harrison Mill Frodsham. In 1888 the firm took the name of Nicole, Nielsen & Co.
The watch is numbered 1900-1 suggesting that it was the first of its series to be manufactured in 1900 and may in fact be the first watch produced by S. Smith & Sons in the 20th century. The London date letter for 1899 covered the period of May 1899 to May 1900, being changed each year on the 29th of May.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A rare and unworn white gold skeletonized wristwatch with bracelet and original certificate
Stylish and bold, the Patek Philippe reference 5180 is a striking example of the manufacture’s artistry, featuring a fully skeletonized movement and dial paired with an opulent white gold “rice grain” bracelet. Introduced in 2008, the model was immediately celebrated within the horological community for its daring aesthetics and technical mastery. Each bridge and component has been painstakingly hand-engraved, a testament to Patek Philippe’s uncompromising commitment to excellence. The 39 mm white gold case lends the watch both presence and gravitas on the wrist.
Preserved in unworn and freshly unsealed condition, the present example is offered with its original certificate and leather folio—an exceptional opportunity to acquire one of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive modern creations.
ANDRÉ BEYNER AND MAURICE GRIMM — An historically important yellow gold self-winding tourbillon prototype wristwatch, accompanied by original drawings and correspondence
The present watch is a historically important creation of two brilliant engineers, Maurice Grimm and André Beyner. Renowned for their groundbreaking innovations, including the record-thin “Delirium,” they pushed horological boundaries with this prototype, the world’s first ultra-thin tourbillon with automatic winding. Just 2.7mm thick, it set a record by integrating the movement into the caseback and introduced a novel “hammer” winding system using a heavy platinum oscillating mass.
Audemars Piguet later acquired the project, launching the caliber 2870 in 1986 inside reference 25643, the thinnest serially produced tourbillon wristwatch of its era. The advent of Electro Discharge Machining (EDM) in the early 1980s made possible the ultra-precise components needed for such breakthroughs. Harnessing this technology, Beyner and Grimm created the foundation for Audemars Piguet’s legendary “Ra Tourbillon” of 1986, the first self-winding ultra-thin tourbillon. More than a technical feat, it reignited the tourbillon as a viable wristwatch complication and helped spark the mechanical revival that restored Swiss haute horlogerie to global prominence.
Accompanied by Maurice Grimm’s original technical drawings, the present lot is not only a prototype of immense horological importance, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for the discerning collector to acquire a cornerstone of modern watchmaking history.
ANDRÉ BEYNER & MAURICE GRIMM
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly important, rare and elegant platinum perpetual calendar splitseconds chronograph wristwatch with diamond indexes, moon phases, leap year, AM/PM indication, additional solid caseback, setting pin, certificate of origin, double sealed
Launched in 1996, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 was the brand’s first serially produced perpetual calendar with a split-seconds chronograph—a technical and aesthetic milestone that captured the hearts of collectors. It also marked the end of an era, featuring the final Lemania-based movement used by the firm: the legendary calibre CH 27-70 Q.
Due to the complexity and labor-intensive nature of its construction, only a handful of pieces were made each year. After a short but celebrated 16-year run, production ended in 2012 with the introduction of its successor, the ref. 5204, now powered by an in-house movement. The 5004 was an application-only piece and among the most elusive models in Patek’s catalogue—nearly impossible to acquire at retail.
This particular ref. 5004P is dressed in classic tuxedo style, with a semi-gloss black dial adorned with ten brilliant-cut diamonds and a baguette diamond at 12 o’clock. Preserved in double-sealed condition and accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, this 2010 example is fresh to the market—a collector’s dream, perfectly untouched, and waiting to be unsealed for the very first time.
Please note the present watch comes with its CITES certificate and can as such be transported with its alligator strap
ROLEX — An elusive, superbly collectible and incredibly charming stainless steel triple calendar automatic wristwatch with moonphases and Gay Frères bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex
Year Circa1953
Reference No. 8171
Movement No. 67’133
Case No. 820’744
Model Name Padellone
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Automatic,cal.10’’’½ 18jewels
Reference 8171 is one of the most important vintage models made by the Crown. Due to its simple and generous architecture, it is lovingly nicknamed “Padellone”, which translates to “large frying pan” in Italian. It features a 38mm case, slightly larger than its waterproof Oyster sibling reference 6062 and defined by the sloped bezel, and elegant downturned lugs featuring an extremely subtle step at the junction with the case.
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned;braceletsignedby braceletmaker
Provenance
Originalowner
BenClymer(2017)
Currentowner(2024)
Estimate
120,000–240,000
$150,000–300,000
€128,000–257,000
Both references 8171 and 6062 were the only two vintage Rolex models with moonphases, giving them a mythical reputation and cult-like following - boosted by their incredibly modern wearability. Produced for a very short period of time in the early 1950s, reference 8171 and 6062 were available in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel.
Impressive with its enormously charming and honest condition, this specimen furthermore boasts a remarkable provenance.
The present reference 8171 was offered by Phillips New York in 2024 and came from one of the most knowledgeable and important personalities in the world of watch collecting: journalist, connoisseur, entrepreneur and collector Mr. Ben Clymer, whose own words are best suited to describe this treasure: “This particular 8171 is, to me, what vintage watch collecting is all about. Wonderful, original condition but not void of personality. … coming from the original owner in 2017, (it) is the perfect one to have great pride in its quality and originality, but also wear without concern.”
ROLEX Ref. 8171 “Padellone”
CONSTANTIN — An extremely scarce, incredibly elegant and superbly refined platinum minute repeating wristwatch with gold two-tone dial, teardrop lugs, additional uniquely engraved caseback, certificate and box
Vacheron Constantin is the watchmaking brand with the longest continuous history, its foundation dating back to 1755. During its multicentury history, the brand has created some of the most exquisitely refined timepieces ever devised, a trend that has not stopped in recent times, as the present timepiece perfectly exemplifies.
Minute repeating watches are counted among of the most difficult timepieces to assemble, requiring enormous skill and equally copious amount of time. Only the most proficient watchmakers and watchmaking brand can achieve this complication, and in very scarce numbers. For example, caliber 1755 - the one powering this watch - has been made in 200 pieces only. However, not all of them were employed on the present model, but some found their way into perpetual calendar reference 30020 and 30040, or skeletonized ref. 30030. Only a fraction was used for the time only version - unarguably the most understated of the ensemble and one of the most elegant, thanks to its minimalist dial nearly completely devoid of scales but featuring an extremely suave twotone finish. In depth research of the model unveiled the extreme scarcity of the reference in general, but - most importantly - of this specific platinum version in particular: only 18 such pieces have ever been made by the firm.
VACHERON
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — An extremely scarce, incredibly elegant and superbly refined platinum minute repeating wristwatch with gold two-tone dial, teardrop lugs, additional uniquely engraved caseback, certificate and box
Manufacturer VacheronConstantin Year 2001
Reference No. 30010
Movement No. 927’919
Case No. 634’553
Material Platinum
Calibre manual,cal.1755,13’’’,29jewels
Bracelet/Strap AlligatorCamilleFournetstrap
Clasp/Buckle PlatinumVacheronConstantinpinbuckle
Dimensions 36.5mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
120,000–240,000
$150,000–300,000
€128,000–257,000
Accessories
Denoting the enormous amount of attention the firm dedicated to the development and execution of this watch, the dial is realised from a piece of solid gold and the piece comes with two casebacks: a glazed one allowing the beholder to enjoy the spectacularly finished movement, and a solid one engraved with a geometric motif, Vacheron Constantin signature, case number and an additional blank cartouche which was intended to house the name of the owner (or a similar engraving), option which was not adopted by the original owner who left the space blank. It is noteworthy to mention that each one of these watches is technically unique, as the engraving on the solid caseback is specific to every single one, with no two pieces bearing the same motif.
Building upon its rarity and charm, the present example furthermore comes with a plethora of accessories that categorises this specimen as one of the most complete examples to ever appear at auction: not only it features the certificate of origin, additional caseback and box - already enough to warm the hearts of discerning collectors - but it even features copy of the original purchase invoice, from which one can learn the watch was originally sold by one of the most renowned retailers in Europe: German based “Wempe”
Due to the above, chiming pieces are undoubtedly among the most expensive complications money can buy, which is was what made them nearly “extinct” over the 20th century. The interest in chiming watches is a consequence of the recent increased knowledge of collectors, who are now truly capable of appreciating these watches. However, this was not the case for a while: born to tell time in the dark, the advent of ubiquitous electric lights already hampered their usefulness - and diffusion - in the first half of the past century. The quartz crisis put a final nail in the repeater’s coffin for many companies, and the complication nearly disappeared for the market. Patek, however, while reducing production to a trickle was one of the few houses who continued to produce minute repeaters even during those dark years. Furthermore, they did not skip a beat and launched new repeater movements as soon as the market showed some sign of recuperation (in the 1980s, when they launched masterpieces such as ref. 3979 and 3974). This allowed the company not only to retain but even to hone their chiming skills to the point of being today the reference for the market in this field.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An exceptional, superbly elegant and one of two known yellow gold minute repeating wristwatch retailed by Gübelin
Patek Philippe manufactured their first minute repeating wristwatch in 1901 and there exists 6 various references of vintage minute repeaters known with different case sizes, metals and dial configurations. Reference 2524/1, introduced in 1955 with less than 20 pieces known in three gold colours and platinum, is fitted with a caliber 12’’’ made by Fritz Piguet. The case, which for a repeater is a very technical piece as it directs resonance and propagation of the sound from the inside to the outside, was made by none of the most important case maker of the era and longtime Patek Philippe partner: Emile Vichet, who is famously also the hand behind the cases of early ref. 2499 examples.
Given its incredibly restricted output and importance within the brand’s history, when an example of this reference comes to auction it always is an occurrence which make collectors’ eyes shine. When however the example also bears a Gübelin dial - one of only 2 pieces with this particularity - the occasion can be described as monumental.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2524/1 “L’Amour
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very attractive, refined and the only example known of a pink gold world time wristwatch with flat bezel and tear drop lugs
Last appearing on the market in 2001 and residing in the same collection for decades, the present piece is one of the most intriguing examples of reference 1415 to appear on the market ever. Not only it is the rare pink gold variant – with about 15 pieces known to the market – but it also presents a remarkable design peculiarity. While usually the model bears a bezel with a subtly convex surface, the present example features an absolutely flat bezel. This gives the piece a completely different, much more masculine and even brutalist aesthetic vibe – not to mention it noticeably increases the legibility of the cities. While no definite information about the genesis of this design is known, it was most likely a prototype similarly to the bean-shaped lugs reference 1416 made in three pieces. It makes sense that the present piece retained the reference number 1415 as the case body is the same as a standard example, the difference lying in the bezel.
Launched in 1939, reference 1415 is an absolute milestone reference in the history of Patek Philippe wristwatches. Prior to the reference’s launch, “world time” mechanisms were only found on pocket watches, often displaying different designs to the centre, such as a polychrome enamel painting of continents or mythical creatures. With the rise of international travel and global communications, the system was introduced in the early 1930s, famously created by genius watchmaker Louis Cottier. Patek Philippe advertising from the period marketed world time watches to “the man whose interests go beyond the horizon” - thus it was ideally envisioned as the watch of CEOs or tycoons with global interests and businesses. Featuring a local time, with hours and minute hand in the centre, the watch was fitted with a rotating 24 hour ring, along with an adjustable outer ring inscribed with the names of different cities. As such, the viewer could immediately be aware of the current time in any time zone of the world.
Whereas the 1518 in stainless steel is considered the endgame in the field of horological collecting a very close contender is its “pink on pink” sibling.
When Patek Philippe released the reference 1518 in 1941 at the annual Swiss Watch Fair in Basel, they introduced a milestone wristwatch that today is considered one of the most important watches of the 20th century. The reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced by any brand in series, and set the course for Patek Philippe’s dominance in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking. So ahead of its time was its design, Patek Philippe continued to use its timeless aesthetic as the foundation for a long line of highly sought after successor models including the references 2499, 3970, 5970 and today’s 5270.
Scholarship suggests that Patek Philippe produced approximately 281 examples, with the majority in yellow gold, exceedingly rare examples in pink gold, and only four known examples in steel (see lot 23). Reference 1518s cased in pink gold were either fitted with a silvered dial and in rare instances with a pink dial. Some 15 examples of the 1518 with this mythical “pink on pink” dial combination are known, making it one of the rarest and most exclusive complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches for a collector to acquire.
When introduced during the turmoil of World War II, the reference 1518’s design aesthetic was a new and modern look with clean lines, elegant proportions, and extended, curved lugs. The case, manufactured by Emile Vichet S. A. for Patek Philippe, evolved over the course of its 14 year history. Patek’s exquisitely finished, manually-wound caliber 13’’’130 Q is housed inside.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1518 “Pink on Pink”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A spectacular and very important pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and pink dial
Manufacturer PatekPhilippe Year 1947
Reference No. 1518
Movement No. 867’243
Case No. 646’599
Model Name “PinkonPink”
Material 18kpinkgold
Calibre Manual,cal.13’’’130,23jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle 18KpinkgoldPatekPhilippepinbuckle
Dimensions 35mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
1,200,000–2,400,000
$1,500,000–3,000,000
€1,280,000–2,570,000
Accessories
The case fully preserves its architecture, without a hint of the tapering of the lugs so often seen in this reference. The hallmark to the band is still easily discernible and the one behind the lug is deep and crisp. The dial is absolutely unrestored and without a trace of cosmetic enhancement, and yet the engraved/enamel graphics are practically flawless, without fading or losses whatsoever and the salmon tonality of the dial is remarkably intense. The back of the dial bears - as expected - the movement number of the watch (twice) confirming the timepiece was born with the dial.
The iconic 1518 has always been considered a stellar timepiece, but in recent times its monumental collectibility and importance has being truly understood and its status as Ultimate Grail unarguably recognised by the collector’s community. This example offers an exceptionally rare opportunity for the most serious wristwatch collectors to posses a true legend of watchmaking, ticking all the boxes with its impressive provenance, stunning “pink on pink” configuration and absolutely unrestored condition.
CARTIER — An attractive and starlit platinum wristwatch with aventurine dial part of a 100 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer Cartier
Year Circa2025
Reference No. 4299andWGSA0099
Model Name SantosDumont“LaBaladeuseChampsElysées,1903”
Iconic and historically significant, the Santos-Dumont takes its name from Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pioneering Brazilian aviator and close friend of Louis Cartier. Designed specifically for aviation, the watch broke new ground with its square case, bold Roman numerals, and leather strap, offering practicality and elegance for pilots. Its innovative design, created in 1904, remains one of Cartier’s most enduring and celebrated creations, embodying the spirit of exploration and modernity.
The present example is a highly sought-after limited edition Santos-Dumont that beautifully captures why Cartier is so often hailed as the “King of Jewelers and Jeweler of Kings.” Preserved in excellent condition, it is a piece that quietly impresses and is sure to captivate anyone who lays eyes on it.
CARTIER — A highly rare and attractive platinum asymmetric wristwatch numbered 8 of a 100 pieces limited edition
Manufacturer Cartier Year 1996
Reference No. 2488
Case No. A113161andN°8/100
Model Name TankAsymétrique
Material Platinum
Calibre
Manual,cal.9P2,18jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle PlatinumCartierdeployantclasp
Dimensions 23mmwidthand33mmlength
Signed Case,dial,movementandclasp
Estimate
12,000–24,000
$15,000–30,000
€12,800–25,700
Cartier has long been at the forefront of bold, creative watch designs, with many of its early innovations becoming timeless icons. In 1996, the maison reintroduced one of its most original 1930s creations—the “Parallelogram,” later known as the Tank Asymétrique. Its tilted case and bold Arabic numerals were conceived to improve legibility while driving, a design quirk that has since become one of Cartier’s most distinctive signatures.
Produced in just 300 yellow gold and 100 platinum examples, the present watch is number 008 of the platinum edition. Elegant and unconventional, it embodies the maison’s genius for transforming avant-garde ideas into enduring classics.
Inside beats the Piaget caliber 9P2, introduced in 1952 and renowned as one of the thinnest and finest hand-wound movements ever made. At just 2 mm thick, it underscores Cartier’s ability to blend technical mastery with refined aesthetics, making this Tank Asymétrique a highly coveted modern interpretation of a historic design.
CARTIER — An extremely rare, whimsical and in virtually “as new” condition platinum shape wristwatch with rotated salmon dial bearing “13” burgundy numeral, ruby-set crown, warranty and box
The “Rue de la Paix” Cloche is available exclusively at the Paris Cartier boutique (located at the eponymous address) and is likely destined to become one of the scarcest and most sought after Cartier models. Rumour has it that production (which started in November 2024) is restricted to 1 or 2 pieces per month, and the lifetime of the model will be three years or less, meaning that overall output should be about 100-150 pieces.
This quirky design was first introduced as a wristwatch in 1921. Due to its unconventional display of time, it has appeared more sporadically than other Cartier classics.
CARTIER
Cloche Paris Boutique Edition
BREGUET — A unique and astounding and ultra rare white gold open face minute repeating perpetual calendar pocket watch with moonphase display
The present Breguet number 2832 is not only a testament to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s heritage – he did after all invent the minute repeater as we know it – but part of the extremely rare pieces Breguet created during the Art Deco era especially one as complicated as the present piece featuring a perpetual calendar combined with a delicate minute repeating function. According to research the present minute repeating perpetual calendar is a unique piece. The present example does away with Breguet’s traditional design language (notably coin edge case and guilloche dial) other than the Breguet hands in exchange for a slim white gold case with a dial configuration, whereas the design is typical of the Art Deco period, the watch was sold in 1942.
The months are indicated on top part of the dial on a 4 year scale, date at 3 o’clock the month at 9 o’clock and age and phases of the moon at 6 o’clock, and the repeater is activated via the lever on the right. The desirability of the present Breguet reaches new heights once we mention that it is not only fresh to the market but offered by the family of the original owner.
We would like to thank Emmanuel Breguet and the Breguet museum for their help in researching the present watch.
BREGUET No. 2832 “Unique Piece”
BREGUET — An early, very rare and attractive white gold Art Deco square-shaped jump hour wristwatch
Abraham-Louis Breguet secured his place in horological history through groundbreaking innovations that continue to shape watchmaking today. While the jump hour mechanism is credited to Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber in 1883, this remarkable Breguet jump hour wristwatch from 1926 is an incredibly rare example that feels surprisingly modern in both design and execution.
The jump hour offered a novel way to tell time, replacing the traditional hour hand with a numerical display that “jumps” at the turn of each hour. While briefly popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, jump hours saw a revival during the Art Deco era, particularly in the 1920s. Eminent watchmakers such as Breguet, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin explored the format— though production remained limited and interest faded after the Great Depression and WWII, not returning until the 1990s.
The present example is a beautifully preserved piece of early 20thcentury watchmaking. Its square case with elegant wire lugs offers a refined, slim profile. Unusually, the hour aperture is positioned at 6 o’clock, a rare layout even among jump hours. A soft, even patina has developed on the case, telling the story of a watch that’s been carefully cherished for nearly a century. Confirmed by Breguet’s extract of archives as sold in 1928 to Monsieur Haïtas, and with only around 50 jump hour watches believed to have been produced by the brand in the 20th century, this is a rare and coveted piece for the discerning collector.
BREGUET — An exquisitely well-preserved, charismatic and important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black luminous dial, luminous hands, and engraved caseback, made for Esso
Manufacturer Breguet Year Circa1957
Case No. 3056(engravedtotheoutsideoftheback, andstampedinside)
Model Name TypeXX“Esso”
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,cal.Valjoux225,17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Stainlesssteelpinbuckle
Dimensions 38.5mmdiameter
Signed Dialsigned
Estimate
30,000–60,000
$37,500–75,100
€32,100–64,200
Accessories
rotating bezel. Intended for military purposes, it was fitted with luminous Arabic hour markers and luminous hands for quick and easy readability in darkness. It was a pleasure for our specialists to realize the material is original radium, and aged to a highly attractive sand tonality.
A superb watch in its own right, this particular Type XX is made even more special by its “Esso” engraving to the back. It was a relative common custom during the second half of the past century for corporations to request from brands custom watches – most often simply bearing the name of the company on the dial or, as in this instance, back; at times escalating to technical modifications such as the Sea-Dweller for Comex or the GMT-Master for PanAm, both of them Rolex efforts.
The requirement was for a multi-purpose wristwatch, suitable for both aviation and aerial navigation. The black dial on the present watch features three subsidiary dials, a robust 38.5mm case and
Research with Breguet indicates that the present watch was sold on November 24, 1957 to ESSO STANDARD for the price of 44,100 French Francs. Research has showed that Esso had previously bought watches for rallies that they sponsored, notably for the winner of the Monte-Carlo Rally in 1959. Phillips had also previously sold another Esso engraved example, owned by Sir Jack Brabham. Brabham was given his watch in 1960 after winning his first Formula One championship.
This example is an outstanding representation of a rare civilian 1960s Breguet, and one that will provide enduring value to the savvy collector. The superb condition, originality and customized caseback this watch boasts are sure to satisfy the demands of even the most refined collectors.
IWC — A lovely, large and rare stainless steel wristwatch with black glossy dial and copper colored numerals
The origins of the IWC Portugieser reference 325 have now been scholarly agreed upon, pinpointing it to the beginning of 1932, where two Portuguese watch importers by the name of Mr. Rodrigues and Mr. Teixeira commissioned IWC with a special request: an oversized wristwatch with a highly accurate movement. Luckily, IWC had already developed and implemented in their pocket watches their cal. 74, a manually wound savonette movement with subsidiary seconds and a 54-hour power reserve. Whilst it was pretty common back then to have a large diameter pocket watch, a 42mm wristwatch was definitely impressive.
However, the first Portugieser pieces were not delivered to Portugal until 1942, a delay most probably caused by times of War. Instead, these watches were first delivered to an Ukrainian retailer in 1939. Originally the watch had no reference number, but some early examples bear the number 228 in the inside of the case back, and traces of a “Mod. 228” can be found in the IWC archives. However, soon the model was internally designated with the much better known reference 325, although this number never appeared on catalogues of the time. According to IWC, only 304 examples reference 325 were produced with the caliber 74, with a total of 690 examples in total produced between 1939 and 1981. Over these 42 years, only 141 actual Portugieser watches were imported to Portugal. Though prized by collectors today because of their rarity, size, and history, IWC’s reference 325 did not enjoy acclaim during its actual production. The present early example features a very rare combination of black glossy dial, copper colored numerals and pink gold hands.
CREDOR — A very rare and attractive platinum skeletonized chronograph wristwatch with mother-of-pearl registers, power reserve indication, original guarantee and presentation box
In the late 1990s, Seiko embarked on a mission to revive its tradition of mechanical chronographs, calling upon some of its most experienced engineers and watchmakers—many of whom came out of retirement for the project. Their efforts culminated in the launch of the Series 6S calibres in 1998, developed for the domestic market and reserved for Seiko’s prestigious Credor line.
At the top of this series was the calibre 6S99, the most refined of the group, distinguished by its lavish decoration and cultural symbolism. A golden plate crowns the movement, engraved with 「水煙」motifs inspired by the ornamental pillars atop Japanese temple towers, alongside a「青海波」wave-like pattern symbolizing harmony. The integrated chronograph mechanism is finished with silver plating and delicate perlage, underscoring the calibre’s luxurious execution.
Equally captivating is the dial, which combines golden plates with mother-of-pearl inlays that shimmer with iridescent hues depending on the light. Encased in platinum with a fluted bezel and accented by striking blued hands, the present reference is the non-limited edition sibling of the GBBL997, of which only 40 pieces were produced in 2000. Elegant, technically accomplished, and rich with Japanese artistry, this watch stands as one of Credor’s most distinguished creations.
GRAND SEIKO — A rare and very attractive stainless steel wristwatch with “Very Fine Adjusted” movement
Vintage Grand Seiko timepieces were produced by one of two factories, the Suwa Seikosha and the Daini Seikosha, and it was believed the parent company encouraged competition between the two producing the finest quality movements.
The present model, the 45GS was produced under Daini Seikosha. There are three different variations of calibers found in the 45GS. The no-date caliber 4520A, the date-equipped caliber 4522A, and the V.F.A. (Very Fine Adjusted) caliber 4580A such as the present watch, which houses one of the most accurate time-only movements in the world. It is an icon due to its unique design and is one of the rarest and most sought-after models from the VFA collection. It features a more rounded near cushion design in a hardened stainless-steel case and deep blue dial. On the dial there is a Daini Seikosha lightning bolt-shaped “S” logo. The present example is preserved in excellent and impressive condition with crisp edges and sharp engravings on the outside caseback.
VIANNEY HALTER — A steampunk and very rare white gold wristwatch with center seconds, sapphire rotor and guarantee
Manufacturer VianneyHalter Year 2010
Case No. 69W.249.CL Model Name Classic
Material 18kwhitegold Calibre Automatic,cal.VH100,27jewels
With the perpetual calendar Antiqua launched in 1998, Vianney Halter somewhat launched the genre of Independent Creative Horology, with a highly off the beaten path design inspired by 19th century steampunk.
Halter released the Classic collection in 2000 as a deliberate evolution away from the complexity – and the audacity - of the Antiqua. The Halter signature elements were nevertheless very present on the Classic that includes a bezel with rivets on each hour marker inspired by the portholes of Captain Nemo’s Nautilus, lugs with an unconventional hinged design and a crown adorned with rivets. The dial gleams in its architectural beauty, it is multileveled with an elegant mix of frosted and polished surfaces.
The movement inside is an interesting one. It’s a modified Lemania caliber 8810 – dubbed the VH100 by Halter – with a double barrel architecture and an oscillating weight mounted on a transparent sapphire crystal to allow for an unimpeded view of the movement design and decoration. Every aspect of the case, the movement, and the dial are hand-finished by Halter and his team.
The Classic was made in a total of 250 pieces in pink, yellow and white gold with different dial variants. The present example in white gold bearing number 69 is in excellent condition, with its original purchase invoice from Japan it offers an opportunity to the collector of independent artisans to own an extremely coveted and hard to find timepiece.
VIANNEY HALTER Classic
VOUTILAINEN — A superb and extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with observatory grade movement, guilloché dial, certificate and presentation box
The historical importance of the present DB1 by De Bethune cannot be highlighted enough as the DB1 was De Bethune’s very first model launched in 2002 and the present pink gold example is numbered 01 making it one of the very first models ever made by De Bethune.
The brainchild of Davide Zanetta, a collector of vintage timepieces andart,andDenisFlageollet,ageniuswatchmakerwhostarted hiscareerrestoringvintagetimepiecesanddevelopingüber complicatedmovementsforothers,DeBethunewascreatedin 2002andinover20yearstheyhavedevelopedover35inhouse movementsandareattheoriginofacavalcadeofextraordinary technicalinventions.DeBethuneiscertainlyoneofthebrandsthat todaybestsymbolises21stcenturywatchmaking.Thisindependent watchmakerisknownforcreativecontemporarydesigninnovations, mechanicalperfectionandcontinuousresearchanddevelopment withinthemanufacture’slaboratory.ThepresentDB’srather classicaldesignisfarfromthemoreaudaciousonesthebrandhas cometobeknownfortodaybutcertaindesignelements,suchasthe bulletshapedlugs,canstillbefoundinthebrand’scurrentmodels anddemonstratesFlagoelletandZanetta’srespectandknowledge ofclassicalwatchmakinganddesign.
The DB1 was made in 28 pieces in white gold, 21 pieces in pink gold and one unique example in yellow gold. The movement was originally created by Flageollet for Jaquet (now Lajoux Perret), a company creating high end mechanical movements for third parties. It is stamped C.D.B, standing for Chevalier De Bethune, an 18th Century French aristocrat and horologist known for his innovative escapement system and whose name inspired the founders of De Bethune.
Standing at the forefront of Russian watchmaking, Konstantin Chaykin is the first to become part of the Academy of Independent Watchmakers (AHCI) and claimed his debut Audacity award with his “Clown” creation at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2018. A self-proclaimed free-thinker, Chaykin has stated that he makes watches for people ”unburdened by stereotypes or prejudices.” Both endearing and divisive, since its introduction in 2017, Chaykin’s series of “Wristmons” have become sought-after by collectors. Since then, several “Wristmons” have debuted, including a Minion, Minotaur, Mouse King, Jack-O-Lantern, and Dracula. Each are delightful and irreverent in their own, pop-art inspired way.
The present “Fiat Lux ” is the latest iteration of this iconic model specially made for Beijing based retailer West Wood Time as a 38 piece limited edition. “Fiat Lux” translates from Latin to “let there be light,” a fitting name was that emphasise’s the openworked design. This Joker edition offers for the first time an openwork dial enabling a view of the inner workings. The dial features Clous de Paris guilloche motif decorations, silver plating, intricate coating, and multi-layered varnish application. In typical Wristmon style, the dial forms a face with the eyes being the sub-dials for the time, with the left register indicating the hours and the right, the minutes, while the mouth at six o’clock contains a moon phase display.
It is important to note that the “Fiat Lux” is also the very first Wristmon to feature a display caseback. The present example number 00/38 is the original prototype that was photographed and featured in numerous online/paper publications adding an extra level of desirability.
CECIL PURNELL — An impressive, ground-breaking and three-dimensional white gold wristwatch with triple axis tourbillon regulator, with guarantee and presentation box, part of a limited edition of 20 pieces
Manufacturer CecilPurnell Year Circa2019
Reference No. CP.01WGSpherion Case No. 1of20Blueexecution
The story of Purnell begins with Cecil Purnell, a World War veteran who, after being injured in the war, turned to watchmaking. He quickly became captivated by the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet—particularly the tourbillon. Decades later, his grandson, Jonathan Purnell, carried that fascination forward and founded the brand in the mid-2000s with a singular focus: to push the limits of tourbillon innovation.
The present Spherion Tourbillon is the result of that ambition. It features the world’s fastest triple-axis tourbillon, completing a full rotation in just eight seconds. Developed in collaboration with master watchmaker Eric Coudray—known for pioneering creations like Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Gyrotourbillon—the movement is a technical marvel. Each tourbillon cage operates at lightning speed: the inner cage rotates in 8 seconds, the middle in 16, and the outer in 30, all constructed in lightweight titanium with tolerances under 0.2mm. It took over two years of intense development to bring this mechanical ballet to life.
But the engineering challenge didn’t end with the movement. Housing the triple-axis tourbillon required a case and sapphire crystal unlike any other. Most sapphire suppliers declined the project due to its complexity. After finding a partner willing to take it on, another 14 months were spent perfecting the crystal architecture. The result is a breathtaking display: sapphire windows at the front, back, left caseband, and even at 12 and 6 o’clock provide an uninterrupted view of the tourbillon in motion. Limited to just 20 pieces, this 18k white gold example is particularly striking with its deep blue tourbillon cage, white markers, and matching hands—a perfect blend of technical audacity and visual impact.
A complete reworking of the tourbillon module, beyond a speeding up of the tourbillon form 1 minute to 30 seconds, the new movement features – as the name implies – a vertical arrangement for the tourbillon cage, while most other tourbillon timepieces feature an horizontal arrangement. In a nutshell, the tourbillon regulator works by averaging the gravity-induced errors of the balance wheel. To achieve this, the balance wheel needs to be parallel to the force of gravity. With the horizontal arrangement, this requirement is only satisfied when the watch is placed on its side (or standing up); not when it is face up/down – one of the most common positions one places the watch when off the wrist. With the horizontal arrangement of the tourbillon, it becomes efficient also when face up/down, giving up the efficiency of the “stand up” position, which is anyways uncommonly employed when someone goes to bed and places the watch on the nightstand – possibly the most common instance of temporary watch removal nowadays.
F.P. JOURNE
Tourbillon Souverain “Black Label”
F.P. JOURNE — A highly complicated, clever and refined platinum wristwatch with vertical tourbillon regulator, Certificate, invoice and box; “Black Label” edition
F.P. JOURNE — A highly complicated, clever and refined platinum wristwatch with vertical tourbillon regulator, Certificate, invoice and box; “Black Label” edition
Part of the ultra-rare and exclusive Black Label collection, the present model was available only to pre-existing Journe owners. Each F.P. Journe boutique receiving one Black Label watch per month and only one or two of each model. Its semi-gloss black dial is an immediate giveaway to Journe cognoscenti of the status of this extraordinarily rare timepiece, and it furthermore beautifully contrasts with the white dials.
Offered in outstanding condition and complete with its original accessories and even the original purchase invoice, such a watch is surely a prize for the avid Journe collector.
F.P. JOURNE Tourbillon Souverain “Black Label”
JAEGER-LECOULTRE — A highly rare and attractive platinum skeletonized wristwatch, numbered 123 of a limited edition of 500 pieces
With a dial that could be flipped, the outside case was also a perfect canvas for artistry and decoration. The possibilities were endless, from enamel, to engraving, and so on.
Carrying the reference number 270.6.49, the present watch is a model among the Number One series, which was sold from 2001. With a case made of platinum and a skeletonized dial that can be admired from both sides, the model was most notably the very first Reverso to be cased in platinum. The skeletonisation was done entirely in-house at newly established metiers d’art workshop in manufacture. Numbered 123, the present timepiece is one among 500 pieces from the series.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN — A fine and attractive pink gold semi-skeletonized triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases, warranty and presentation box
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is not shy to flaunt its incredible movement and finishing. With the prestige approval of the Poinçon de Genève gracing this timepiece, all its glory can be admire from the front to the back. Cased in a 41mm diameter pink gold case, a glimpse of the guilloche dial and gear can be appreciated under the sapphire crystal. As the white gold Dauphine hands glide across midnight, the wearer is able to see a world of wheels and levers as well as the jump of the sapphire day wheel in action. The date is indicated on the periphery of the dial by a crescent tipped hand that brackets the date with clear legibility. Tastefully depicted is also a photoreleastic moon phases at 6 o’clock cleverly designed with a semi-frosted shape that is modern and elegant.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A most probably unique yellow gold perpetual calendar with retrograde date, black dial, Breguet numerals and luminous hands and indexes
Launched in 1993 and produced until 2002, reference 5050— alongside its officer-style sibling, reference 5059—remains one of the most underappreciated models of modern Patek Philippe watchmaking. For the first time in the brand’s history, a perpetual calendar was paired with both an automatic movement and central seconds—bringing together two hallmark features of revered vintage references: 3448/3450 (automatic) and 2497/2438-1 (center seconds).
Adding further distinction, the 5050 features a retrograde date display, introducing a dial layout rarely seen on Patek Philippe timepieces, and until then, unprecedented in regular production models. The reference 5050 was made in all precious metals with opaline dials and baton markers.
It is obvious at first glance that the present ref 5050 in yellow gold is not a ordinary example, and features three aesthetic elements making it truly unique:
- Black dial
- Breguet numelars
- Luminous hands and lume plots
All these elements are of course conformed by the Certificate of Origin. The latter also sheds more light on the piece. The date of sale is indicated as 2011, almost a decade after the reference was discontinued as such one can only assume the present unique piece was made for one of Patek Philippe’s most important clients.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An exotic, luxurious amd very uncommon yellow gold automatic wristwatch with dates, integrated Gay Frères bracelet and certificate
One of haute horology’s most iconic and coveted timepieces, the present watch is preserved in extremely honest and wellpreserved condition. The case maintains its proportions and the dial displays very well preserved graphics and surface. The original, Gay Frères-signed flat Nautilus clasp in 18K white gold is correct, and the hallmarks on the reverse of the case are easily visible. The presence of the original Certificate (code-dated 1981) is an added rarity to this already remarkable horological package.
The reference 3700 embodied every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avant-garde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting finish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. First introduced in steel, 18K yellow gold quickly followed as an ultra-luxurious option.
The original reference 3700/1 was in production from its introduction in 1976 until 1981 and featured a wider bracelet, versus the more tapered bracelet of the successor reference 3700/11. Considered that /1 taper to 16mm, and /11 to 14mm, this means that the last links of a /11 bracelet have about 11-12% less gold than the ones of the present variation.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3700/1 Nautilus “Jumbo”
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very attractive and rare platinum split seconds chronograph wristwatch with black enamel dial, Breguet numerals, additional caseback, certificate of origin and presentation box
Released in 2015, the Patek Philippe reference 5370 split-seconds chronograph is considered by many as being one of the most exciting and desirable watches to have left the workshops of the famed Geneva based manufacture in recent years.
Made in extremely low numbers, the reference 5370 is a resolutely modern watch but with hints of vintage in its design. A proud heir to Patek Philippe’s prestigious chronographs of the past the present reference is set to become one of the brand’s icons of the future. The present example, in superb condition, is further accompanied by its full set of accessories.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A rare and visually striking pink gold flying tourbillon wristwatch with stunning green “Evolutive Tapisserie” dial, bracelet, warranty and presentation box, part of a 10 pieces limited edition
First introduced in 1997 to mark the Royal Oak’s 25th anniversary, the tourbillon has long been a signature complication within Audemars Piguet’s iconic sports watch. Today, the complication reaches new heights with the calibre 2950, the brand’s first selfwinding flying tourbillon integrated into the Royal Oak collection. Previously reserved for the Concept line, this cutting-edge architecture now joins the maison’s most celebrated design.
The present example captivates at first glance with its striking emerald-green “Evolutive Tapisserie” dial, a pattern introduced in 2018 on the hand-wound tourbillon models, radiating outward from the cage at 6 o’clock. The vivid dial is beautifully paired with a substantial pink gold case, its warmth amplifying the vibrancy of the green—a daring yet harmonious combination.
Limited to only 10 pieces worldwide, this reference is a true rarity. Offered complete with its box and papers, it marks the first time the model has appeared at auction, representing an exceptional opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the most exclusive expressions of the Royal Oak flying tourbillon.
ROLEX — An extremely well-preserved and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with lapis lazuli dial, date, caseback sticker and bracelet
Hardstone dials are undoubtedly one of Rolex’s signature and most coveted dials in the current market. These dials not only offer a wide range of colors, textures, and visual appeal, their production is a challenging and meticulous process. Since natural hardstones have varying hardness and composition, it makes them fragile and very difficult to work with. It is believed that a significant portion of the material is wasted during the manufacturing process, resulting in dials that often differ in thickness compared to regular ones.
The watch is preserved in extremely sharp and possibly unpolished condition, with the caseback sticker still intact. It is further accompanied by a period-correct yellow gold Jubilee bracelet, perfectly matching the overall aesthetic. With an extremely wellpreserved case and a flawless dial, it is a highly desirable timepiece for discerning collectors.
ROLEX
Ref. 16238 Datejust “Lapis Lazuli”
ROLEX — An attractive, very unusual and extremely sought-after stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman “Musketeer” dial and bracelet
A superbly collectible example of ref. 6239, this watch sports two remarkable details. First and foremost, it features one of rarest and most collectible declinations of the “Paul Newman” dial: the so-called “Musketeer” variation. Usually, Paul Newman dials have a concentric circle pattern (azurage) all the way to the edge of the sunken subdials, which present vertical “walls”. However, on Musketeer dials the azurage covers only two-third of the dials; the remaining outer sector is smooth and gently slopes up to the main dial surface: a completely different design than the standard one. The present dial is preserved in outstanding condition with round luminous dots that are intact and have aged with light patina. The outer track has barely any signs of ageing as well which is very rare for this dial variant. Musketeer Paul Newmans appear to occur throughout the 2’xxx’xxx range, with examples sold by Phillips ranging from 2’036’574 to 2’737’249.
Inadditiontothis,intellectualintrigueisfoundwithinthecaseback, which is stamped with the never-produced reference 6242. Employing non-matching case references within the back of vintage Daytonas is a well-documented Rolex custom which adds intrigue to the piece. In this instance, however the reference is a never produced one and possibly intended for the unreleased vintage Yachtmaster, whose Daytona-based prototype ndeed bears ref. 6242 inside its back On top of this, the piece is offered in superb condition, with a dial that is practically pristine, featuring unmolested tritium accents - which have acquired a lovely warmth with time - and a virtually flawless surface.
The Rolex Day-Date has been a symbol of style and status since its debut in 1956. Instantly recognizable with its full day display at 12 o’clock and date at 3, it was the first of its kind—and remains one of Rolex’s most iconic creations. Paired with the equally legendary “President” bracelet, the Day-Date blends elegance with everyday wearability. Over the decades, it’s evolved with new movements and modern touches—from the sporty ref. 1803 in the late ‘50s to the quickset upgrades in the ‘70s and ‘80s, and the 118xxx series launched in 2000. Offered in yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as platinum, with a wide range of dials and styles, the Day-Date is one of Rolex’s most versatile and enduring models.
The present Day-Date is part of the elusive series featuring hard stone dials—ranging from Onyx to Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, and the rarest of them all: Coral. Coral is an incredibly delicate material and notoriously difficult to work with, which explains why so few examples exist. The dial on this watch has a beautiful peachy, wavy tone and is free of any imperfections. Paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet that have developed a soft, pinkish patina over time, the result is a highly attractive and distinctive combination.
Preserved in exceptional condition, delivered in 2010, and still retaining its original caseback sticker, this watch is offered with its full set of accessories. For collectors chasing the most elusive and refined Rolex references, this is truly endgame.
ROLEX — A rare and impressively well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Big Red” dial, guarantee, invoice and presentation box
Launched in the late 1960s, references 6263 and 6265 replaced the first Oyster Cosmograph model, 6240. Reference 6265 was introduced to the market in 1969 precisely and ceased production in the late 1980s. Compared to the first generation of the Cosmograph Daytona, the model featured screw down pushers and thus carried the “Oyster” designation on the dial, offering water resistance. The model was offered in either stainless steel or gold and the movement was also upgraded from a Valjoux 722 movement to the more reliable Valjoux 727 movement.
The present watch, offered in excellent and incredibly sharp condition is an impressive example. Displaying round luminous plots, the dial is crisp and free of visible flaws. Luminous dots usually fall off or degrade over time, yet the ones on this examples remain round and intact. Furthermore, the case is preserved in incredibly sharp condition with crisp edges and facets. As an even nicer touch, it is accompanied by its Rolex Guarantee dated July 8, 1985, presentation box and outer packaging.
ROLEX
Ref. 6265 Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red”
Daytona chronographs with the coveted “Paul Newman” dials are rare, but the reference 6241 is amongst the rarest. In production for only 3 short years from approximately 1966 to 1969, we estimate that roughly 2000 pieces were produced in stainless steel, with around 1/3 of produced examples cased in yellow gold. The present watch is part of the mega-rare 14k yellow gold models mostly destined for the American market – as in this instance, certified by the ROW stamp on the movement. Many of them were manufactured in one batch, fitted with either black or champagne exotic (Newman) or standard dials.
This reference differed from other Daytona models with a new case design that introduced a small protrusion under the crown, which allowed easier winding of the Valjoux caliber 722. It also featured a new bezel composed of a metal support fitted with a black acrylic insert featuring a tachymeter scale printed in white. The “T SWISS T” designation at the lower edge of the dial by 6 o’clock indicates the use of tritium for the hands and luminous hour markers. It is also from this reference on that the word ‘Daytona’ would be officially printed on the dial.
ROLEX
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
ROLEX — An absolutely stunning, superlatively attractive and extremely rare 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman dial and bracelet
ROLEX — An absolutely stunning, superlatively attractive and extremely rare 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman dial and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1969
Reference No. 6241
Case No. 2’112’976
Model Name CosmographDaytona“PaulNewman” Material 14kyellowgold
This bi-color “Paul Newman” dial is correct for a Cosmograph bearing serial number 2’112’976, which is completely within a batch of other known examples with this dial configuration. Other known examples of the reference 6241 with the same dial configuration include:
1) 2’112’911
2) 2’112’935
3) 2’112’936
4) 2’112’949
5) 2’112’960
The warmth of the 14k yellow gold case perfectly matches the true protagonist of the watch: a gorgeous cream-colored grené dial, framed and set apart by the black acrylic bezel. Displaying crisp graphics and eye-catching details, the dial is presented in a superb state of preservation. The luminous dots are all intact and round, making for an extraordinarily good-looking dial.
Such original and beautifully well-preserved Paul Newmans hardly ever appear on the market – much less so in the rarest 14k variantmaking this an extraordinarily rare opportunity to acquire a trophy exotic-dialed Cosmograph Daytona.
ROLEX
Ref. 6241 Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman”
IWC — A superb and exceedingly rare platinum automatic perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and 4-digit year indication
Powered by the self-winding cal. 79261, based on the reliable Valjoux 7750, the Da Vinci also incorporated a chronograph, making it one of the most versatile and accessibly priced perpetual calendars available at the time. Its distinctive case, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s fascination with recurring circles, gave the watch its name and enduring identity. The model was warmly embraced by collectors, ensuring its continued place in IWC’s catalogue to this day.
The present example, however, is far rarer. According to IWC archives, just one month after the launch, the brand quietly produced an ultra-exclusive edition of only 25 pieces in platinum. Never publicly announced, it is believed these watches were reserved for IWC’s most important clients. Sold in November 1985, this particular piece is preserved in very good condition—an exceptional opportunity to acquire one of the rarest iterations of the Da Vinci, and a discreet piece of IWC’s history.
Manufacturer Heuer Year Circa1955
Reference No. 3336N
Movement No. 707’469
Case No. 32’117
Model Name PreCarrera
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,cal.Valjoux22,17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Stainlesssteelelasticbracelet
Dimensions 37mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
6,000–12,000
$7,500–15,000
€6,400–12,800
Accessories
Heuer’s involvement in event timing predates the launch of its two most iconic models—the Carrera and Autavia—in the mid-1960s. In fact, the 1940s and 1950s were a particularly prolific era for the brand, producing a number of remarkable chronographs that laid the groundwork for its later successes.
Affectionately nicknamed the “Pre-Carrera” by collectors, the present reference 3336N dates to the mid-1950s. It features a striking black dial with two oversized registers and dauphine hands, giving it a bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Powered by the reliable Valjoux 22 caliber, this chronograph embodies the spirit of Heuer’s early innovations and represents an exciting opportunity for any serious vintage collector to acquire a piece of the brand’s pre-Carrera legacy.
CARTIER — A virtually unworn and attractive stainless steel skeletonized wristwatch with micro rotor, black lacquer bezel, guarantee and presentation box
First introduced in 1904 and often regarded as the first men’s wristwatch, the Santos-Dumont has long embodied Cartier’s fusion of elegance and innovation. In 2023, Cartier unveiled the SantosDumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor in steel, rose gold, and a limited yellow gold edition, marking the most contemporary evolution of this iconic line.
Housed in the classic “Large” 31mm case, the watch features the newly developed skeletonized caliber 9629 MC, where bridges double as hour markers and the entire gear train is visible. Balanced by a mainspring at two o’clock and a hairspring opposite, the movement offers symmetry as well as a 44-hour power reserve.
The star detail is the micro-rotor, engraved with Santos-Dumont’s legendary La Demoiselle plane, harmonized in matching metal to the case. Just launched to the public and extremely rare, this version most notably features a black lacquer bezel and the present example is preserved in barely worn condition.
HEUER — A rare and fine early stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with off-white dial
Manufacturer Heuer Year Circa1963
Reference No. 2447S
Case No. 56’603
Model Name Carrera
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,cal.Valjoux72,17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle StainlesssteelHeuerpinbuckle
Dimensions 35mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
3,000–6,000
$3,800–7,500
€3,200–6,400
The Heuer Carrera reference 2447 is one of the brand’s most iconic chronographs, launched in 1963 and produced until the early 1970s. With its sharp faceted lugs, robust case and clean dial, it defined the design language that continues to shape the Carrera to this day.
This early example, in excellent condition, features elongated applied markers, a dial signed “SWISS” inside the 6 o’clock register, and the “Ed. Heuer” signature on movement and caseback—details found only before the 1964 Heuer-Leonidas merger.
Often compared to the earliest Daytona 6239, the 2447 stands as the true foundation of the Carrera line. Elegant, refined, and historically important, it is a cornerstone for any serious chronograph collection.
DE BETHUNE — A sculptural and unprecedented titanium wristwatch with digital jumping hour, wandering minutes, three-dimensional moon-phase, certificate, and presentation box
De Bethune has always been highly experimental, and few watches epitomize the brand’s avant-garde tendencies better than the Dream Watch collection. Six different Dream Watch models have been created since the inaugural example was introduced to the world in 2008. The Dream Watch 5 was announced in 2014; it stands tall as likely the most radical and recognizable Dream Watch of them all.
The manual-wind caliber DB 2144 inside the Dream Watch 5 is utterly impressive yet completely hidden from view. Despite the relative simplicity of the displays, the movement features more than 320 components, including an in-house balance wheel made from silicon and palladium and a triple pare-chute shockabsorption system. The Dream Watch 5 has been made-on-order by De Bethune since its 2014 debut. The present example dates to 2021, is in excellent condition, and comes as a full set, consigned by its original owner.
GRÖNEFELD — An intricate, elegant and unique pink gold wristwatch with center seconds, flying tourbillon regulator, power reserve indication, crown function indication, crown function selection via crown-integrated pusher, diamondset bezel, additional polished bezel and 2014 GPHG trophy; number 07 of a 28 pieces limited edition and the only one of the series featuring double bezel confirmed by the manufacturer
The present piece is part of a remarkably scarce series of 28 pieces, and yet it is elevated above and beyond its 27 siblings by two unique characteristics fully confirmed by the manufacturer: it is the only one of the series to have officially been sold with two bezels: a standard polished one and a superb and luxurious additional diamond set bezel and the dial is slightly of a darker color than the other ones.
Parallax is defined as the apparent change in position of an object relative to its background when the observer changes their own position. This can be easily tested: take a (very slow moving) hand of your watch – such as the minute hand – and alternatively look at it with your right and left eye, quickly shutting one closed and the other one opens. You will notice that the hand appears to be in different positions compared to a background marker according to which eye is looking at it. In order to mitigate the possibility of error due to parallax when viewing the seconds hand from an angle, this timepiece features a hand which is exceptionally close (0.05mm!) to the outer chapter ring, marked with neat seconds indices. Additionally, the one-armed balance wheel bridge always runs parallel to the central seconds hand.
Furthermore, the in-house caliber G-03 was made with a unique hacking and resetting mechanism. With a main plate comprised of rhodium-plated nickel silver and hand-polished stainless steel bridges, the movement is exceptionally well-finished. The crown is pushed in for winding and setting, as indicated by the sector on the dial at four o’clock. When the setting position is selected, the flying tourbillon and seconds hand will reset to the 12 o’clock position and then stop. This mechanism allows the wearer to precisely set and synchronize the wristwatch to the reference time. The Grönefeld Parallax Tourbillon was awarded the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2014 for the best watch in the tourbillon categorie and in fact that very award – an historical relic in itselfaccompanies the present watch.
DEREK PRATT FOR URBAN JÜRGENSEN — A superlative and extremely elegant yellow gold hunter case perpetual calendar minute repeating pocket watch with moonphases and presentation box, one of only 4 made
Derek Pratt is most certainly one of the most revered watchmakers of the past 5 decades. A British horologist, Pratt was a contemporary of George Daniels with whom he had long telephone conversations each Sunday, where each exchanged experiences and challenges they faced in their respective pursuit of chronometry. Even though not officially recognized by Daniels, the latter consulted Pratt on many of his innovations and Pratt even made some components for him.A watchmaker who spent his life studying the old masters such as Breguet or Tompion and mastering their techniques, Pratt never signed his watches, even under the newly reborn Urban Jürgensen & Sönner brand, where he was the technical director from 1982 to 2005.
Urban Jürgensen was considered as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 19th century. Appointed to the court of Denmark, he established himself in Switzerland catering to monarchs, aristocrats and the greats of Europe. His name was abandoned in the early 20th century - even though workshops in Copenhagen were maintained all along- but brought back to life by watchmaker and entrepreneur Peter Baumberger, who first bought the name in 1979 and then the whole company in 1985.
Pratt designed complications for Urban Jürgensen and even created the brand’s beautiful guilloché dials. However, his true passion laid in pocket watches - a passion that materialized under the form of the superb pocket pieces he made for the brand using only traditional techniques and no CNC machines, such as the present watch. The movement is based on a heavily
modified vintage Louis-Elysée Piguet ébauche, with every of its components, from the bridges to the tiniest of screws, involves manual labor, may it be adjusted tolerances, polishing, angling and so on. Pratt’s attention to detail is exemplified in the fact that even the underdial components that remain hidden are finished to the same standards. The incredible guilloché dial was also hand made by Pratt, a painstaking manual work that took him close to a week to finish. The case is also hand made with a cavalcade of subtle details making it a work of art on to its own.
LEDERER — A brilliant and game-changing white gold central impulse chronometer wristwatch with warranty and box, number 13 of a limited edition of 25 pieces
Manufacturer Lederer
Year 2023
Reference No. CIC9012.60.801
Movement No. 0043,movementfurtherengravedwithlimitededition number13/25
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An advanced and coveted titanium minute-repeating “Supersonnerie” wristwatch with salmon grande tapisserie dial, bracelet, warranty, and presentation box, part of a limited edition of 35 pieces
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie brings together two worlds rarely seen in harmony: the sporty, angular architecture of the Royal Oak and the refined complexity of a minute repeater. Crafted in lightweight and durable titanium, the watch is a testament to Audemars Piguet’s technical mastery and a bold expression of modern sport-luxury.
The original Concept Supersonnerie, unveiled in 2014, marked a significant leap forward in the acoustic performance of chiming watches. Drawing from centuries of horological tradition, the piece redefined what a minute repeater could sound like. Designed with the precision of a musical instrument, it introduced three patents: one for the gongs, another for an improved regulator, and a third for a specially engineered caseback with apertures to amplify sound. Remarkably, the chime is louder when worn than when off the wrist—an acoustic breakthrough in modern watchmaking.
Released in 2019 as a limited edition of 20 pieces, the Royal Oak Supersonnerie returned in 2021 with a new run of just 35 examples, including the present watch. Measuring 42mm, the case features the classic Royal Oak design, with a minute repeater slide at 9 o’clock and a salmon-toned grande tapisserie dial that adds an elegant warmth. The engraved caseback bears sound wave motifs and the Supersonnerie signature. Preserved in nearly new condition, this example is offered complete with its original warranty card and presentation box—an exceptional piece of contemporary haute horlogerie.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — A technically advanced and attractive automatic skeletonized stainless steel wristwatch with double balance, warranty and presentation box
Since its inception in 1972 the Royal Oak has gone from being the very first steel leisure/sports watch from a haute horlogerie brand to a design language and a laboratory of ideas and creativity. While Audemars Piguet has produced some of the finest skeletonized watches over the decades, a skeletonized Royal Oak always impresses.
In overall excellent condition the present lot is offered with its full set of accessories.
GENUS — A whimsical and inventive damascene titanium wristwatch with combined “dragon”/hand minute indication, rotating and revolving hour numerals, certificate and box
Genus is a relative newcomer to the world of independent creative horology, presenting timepiece in 2019. The brand s the brainchild of Catherine Henry and Sébastian Billières, a watchmaker having previously worked at Urwerk and Roger Dubuis and who since 2007 has been developing movements for other brands.
The Genus Dragon GNS1.2TD is a one-of-a-kind horological sculpture, blending artistic mastery with groundbreaking mechanical innovation. Crafted in Damascene Titanium—a material rarely seen in watchmaking—this piece is part of an exclusive and avant-garde series that places Genus at the forefront of contemporary independent watchmaking. The unique identifying number 0220/21 marks this watch as a singular creation within the model’s lineage.
Instead of traditional hands, the mechanism uses a free-moving satellite system that shows hours and tens of minutes through mechanical elements that glide, orbit, and shift across the dial. The centerpiece is a sculpted dragon figure, animated through movement, that symbolizes both the flow of time and mythical guardianship—fusing horology and Eastern symbolism in an unprecedented way.
This Genus Dragon is more than a timepiece—it is a philosophical statement about the nature of time, form, and individuality. For visionary collectors seeking a unique fusion of mechanical art and technical brilliance, this example stands at the frontier of what haute horlogerie can be.
It is a well-known fact that the first approach of François Paul Journe to watchmaking was in the workshop of his uncle Michel Journe. Apparently, watchmaking talent runs in the Journe family: Michel was one of the foremost restorers of antique clocks in France. Without a doubt, during these years François Paul had the (quite incredible) opportunity of studying some outstanding timepieces from some of the greatest watchmakers ever such as Breguet, Janvier or Leroy.
No longer content on restoration work and the creation of one off masterpieces Journe decided to launch his eponymous brand. However, he faced a new problem: how to finance the launch of his brand and the creation of his first model. A friend suggested that he use the subscription system already used by the great Abraham-Louis Breguet whereby a few trusting clients would make a down payment for a watch that had not been made in exchange for a discount on the retail price. This would allow Journe to finance his workshops, tools and components. Journe thus made his first 20 “Souscription” (subscription in French) tourbillons delivered in 1999, each featuring its individual number on the dial.
His second model followed rapidly after: the Chronomètre à Resonance. Drawing inspiration from 18th century French royal clockmaker Antide Janvier’s double pendulum clocks, in 1983 Journe succeeded in miniaturizing Janvier’s system by creating the first pocket watch to incorporate dual balances oscillating in resonance. This feat was considered near impossible to translate to wristwatch scale at the time, but Journe’s visionary talent and determination led him to accomplish this 17 years later, unveiling the Chronomètre à Resonance in 2000.
This mechanism is composed of two independent balances, alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator” and as such evening out each other’s variations resulting in a higher accuracy rate. The earliest F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance examples can be divided into three categories. After the first two years of case production (99R and 00R), the characteristics of the Résonance become more standardized, until the brass movement series is discontinued in its entirety by 2004.
F.P. JOURNE
— An extremely rare and historical platinum dual time wristwatch with resonating escapements, number 2 of a 20 pieces subscription series
No. 001 – 020: The Souscription watches like the present example. These were first offered to those twenty clients of Journe who purchased his Tourbillon Souverain, funding his brand. They bear the suffix /00R for their production year of 2000. They were not necessarily delivered in that order, contrary to previous schools of thought, but many of the clients who purchased a Souscription Tourbillon also ordered a matching Résonance. They have the deeper engravings to the caseback, as Journe used laser-etching for this series.
The present example from the original owner is a true piece of horological history as it is the second subscription Resonance to be made (bearing number 002) as well as being the second subscription to grace the auction market.
Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription No. 2”
F.P. JOURNE
DAVID CANDAUX — A groundbreaking titanium prototype wristwatch with double escapement and differential
Manufacturer DavidCandaux Year 2025
Reference No. DC12“Emblème” Movement No. MovementengravedPrototypeand α
ROLEX — A superbly rare, very unusual, extremely collectible and absolutely “New Old Stock” stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, customized dial, engraved caseback, factory stickers to the case, Warranty and box; made for the Italian Police Divers Corps
The present watch is a truly New Old Stock, flawless examples of Sea-Dweller “Polipetto”, one of the scarcest and most fascinating special editions Rolex ever made. Not only both case and dial are preserved in absolutely flawless condition, but the case even still retains the factory stickers to the band with unmolested QR code. While the purpose of this code is internal to Rolex’s production and thus not clearly known, what is known is that it is very delicate: even some moderate rubbing is enough to have it fade entirely or partially. In this instance, the code is flawlessly preserved as well, further evidence of an absolutely untouched timepiece.
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its diving corps, the Italian State Police asked Rolex to produce this rare special edition of 78 pieces. The emblem of the Italian Police Divers Corps - the octopus - is immediately apparent on the dial and is the origin of the “Polipetto” nickname for the model (Italian for “little octopus”). The caseback engraving is executed using high-voltage electrogravure and it reads the commemoration “POLIZIA DI STATO SOMMOZZATORI 1958-2008”. Some examples additionally bear to the back the brevet number of the diver they had been assigned to, and 3 pieces reserved for the highest hierarchies of the Italian Police bear a bespoke engraving under the commemoration.
ROLEX — A very well preserved and highly striking stainless steel dual-time wristwatch with center seconds, “tropical” dial, date, bakelite bezel and bracelet, retailed by Serpico y Laino
The story of the Rolex GMT starts with an increase in the number of transatlantic flights enabled by the jet engine, and reaches its zenith thanks to a partnership with one of the most successful airline companies of the mid-20th century. The venerable PanAmerican Airlines was looking for an extremely reliable tool watch that would allow its pilots to keep track of two different time zones.
Rolex created an ingenious solution, using the rotating Bakelite bezel that worked in conjunction with a fourth, 24-hour hand permitting the wearer to clearly keep track of two time zones.
Instantly recognisable because of its colorful bezel, Rolex’s first GMT-Master was produced for only five short years before the brand addressed the fragility of a Bakelite bezel. The present reference 6542 is a wonderful example of this seminal GMT-Master model. The glossy black lacquer dial has developed a golden sheen and tropical appearance over the years due to UV exposure which balances well with the well-preserved gilt minute track and gilt printing. The case retains crisp, architectural facets and lovely original dimensions.
Even more impressive is the presence of the Serpico y Laino signature at 6 o’clock. Even the caseback retains the S&L engraving - a detail that would have been removed with continuous polishing. The present watch is one of a handful of correct examples with the signature of the storied retailer on the dial. Caracas-based, Venezuelan retailer Serpico & Laino began its history in the 1930s, a result of the partnership of two Italian immigrants to Venezuela, Vincenzo Laino and Leopoldo Serpico. While Serpico was the industrial power behind the brand, Laino was the connossieur, having previously been a goldsmith in his native Basilicata. It was Laino, with Serpico’s encouragement, who negotiated first a partnership with Rolex.
ROLEX — A fine and attractive yellow gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, diamond-set indexes, black mother of pearl dial, caseback sticker, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box
Introduced in 1988 to replace the reference 18038, reference 18238 was upgraded with the firm’s newest cal. 3155 featuring a double quickset function for the day and date, allowing wearers to adjust at ease via the crown. The reference 18238 was discontinued in 2000 making way for its new model reference 118238. The present example is fitted with a black mother of pearl dial adorned with baguette-cut diamond-set indexes, packing a heavy visual punch. With much flare and an exquisite in appeal, the black mother of pearl dial emits various hues and iridescence under various lighting.
Rolex in particular excels in using hard stone and unusual materials. The manufacture has elevated its dress watches with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and a number of different fossil stones, providing an unusual design twist to classic models.
ROLEX — A refined and highly attractive white gold wristwatch with bracelet, center seconds, day, date, diamond-set bezel and dial sector ring, with garantie and presentation box
Since its debut in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date has stood as one of the brand’s most glamorous and versatile flagship models, available only in precious metals and endlessly celebrated for its diversity of dials, bracelets, and bezels.
The present ref. 118389, crafted in white gold, distinguishes itself with a striking silver dial adorned with Arabic numerals and a diamond-set sector ring, further enhanced by a matching diamond-set bezel and lugs. The result is a watch of rare sophistication and presence.
Dating to circa 2000 with a “P” serial, this example is preserved in outstanding condition, retaining its crisp edges and proportions. With its highly coveted configuration, this Day-Date is a rare opportunity for the discerning collector.
ROLEX Ref. 118389 Day-Date
PATEK PHILIPPE — A flawlessly preserved, highly complicated and very collectible yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, day/night indication, certificate, additional back and box
The successor to the superb reference 5970, the 5270 was a truly ground-breaking new chapter in the brand’s storied line of perpetual calendar chronographs. Launched in 2011, it was Patek Philippe’s very first perpetual calendar chronograph with a fully in-house movement, the caliber 29-535, marking a historical transition from the previous Lemania era.
Originally introduced in an algid white gold version with silvered dial,themodelsoonsawtheadditionofanumberofvariations, includingpinkgoldones(firstseenin2015)andplatinumexamples (2018).Peculiarly,however,fornearlyadecadesinceitsintroduction noyellowgoldvariationwasintroduced.Thepublichadtowaituntil 2020toseetheappearanceofwhatmightbethemost“classically inspired”-asitretracestheaestheticsmostusuallyseeninancestor references1518,2499and3970-iterationofthemodel:yellowgold withsilvereddialandappliedyellowgoldnumerals
Offered in superb condition and complete with its original accessories, this is a proposition for the connoisseur of Patek Phillippe looking to add a timeless classic to her or his collection.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very well preserved and rare yellow gold wristwatch with champagne dial and Breguet numerals, the only one known in this configuration
Reference 534 is an elusive model from Patek Philippe, produced in the late 1930s and early 1940s it was available alongside the famous ref 96 but contrary to its sibling reference 534 features a surprising “Empire” style case that was not seen before...or after at Patek Philippe.
The 2 part case is a first test in water resistance, it is rather thick with straight flanks, thin straight down turned lugs providing incredible panache and wrist presence.
The dial of the present example is the true show stopper as it features a striking champagne colored dial and Breguet numerals. Of the 15 ref 534 in yellow gold known the present example, fresh to the market is the only one known with champagne dial and Breguet numerals.
The desirability of this piece is further enhanced by the superbe state of preservation, the hard enamel brand name is raised and crisp but most importantly the three hallmarks present on the case and lugs are perfectly crisp and deep leading us to believe the watch was most probably never polished.
PATEK PHILIPPE
ROLEX — A rare, sporty and extremely well preserved stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with Arabic numerals and bracelet
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1991
Reference No. 16520,casebackstamped“16500”totheinside Movement No. 55’717
Case No. X660900
Model Name CosmographDaytona“ArabicNumerals”
Material Stainlesssteel Calibre Automatic,cal.4030,31jewels
The Rolex Daytona reference 16520 represents a pivotal moment in the history of the brand’s chronograph line. Introduced in 1988, it was the first Daytona to feature an automatic movement—the revered Zenith El Primero-based calibre 4030 —and a modern 40mm case diameter. Crafted in stainless steel, the 16520 became an instant icon, merging technical performance with the sleek, sporty aesthetic that would define contemporary Rolex. Among its most appealing variations is the elusive Arabic numeral dial, produced in extremely limited numbers.
The Arabic dial configuration transforms the Daytona’s familiar face into something exotic and highly charming. Instead of traditional hour markers, the dial features applied Arabic numerals in a modern font, creating a visually distinctive layout that maintains legibility and symmetry. Paired with the robust stainless steel Oyster case, screw-down pushers, and engraved tachymeter bezel, the watch retains all the tool-watch credentials of the 16520 while offering an added layer of regional rarity and collector appeal.
Whereas Arabic dials were only available on gold models a very few were made available upon demand in stainless steel examples, most probably for the brands best clients.
The present example, with its excellent condition is an example of this elite and elusive circle with Rolex service papers from 2024 confirming the dial and case metal
ROLEX — A historical pink gold calendar wristwatch with center seconds, gifted to Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser by Sheikh Fahd Al Salem al Sabah of Kuwait
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1956
Reference No. 6511
Case No. 134’660
Model Name Day-Date
Material 18kpinkgold
Calibre Automatic,cal.1055,jeweled
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Giltpinbuckle
Dimensions 36mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
25,000–50,000
$31,300–62,600
€26,800–53,500
The present Rolex ref 6511 is more than a Day-Date but a timepiece that tells the story of great men of a bygone era. If focusing on the watch alone we can underline that is a very attractive and rare pink gold legendary Day-Date reference 6511; it is one of the earliest examples of this series ever produced, manufactured in 1956 as evidenced by the serial number 134660. However turn the watch around and the caseback reveals an inscription that makes the watch go from timepiece to historical artefact. The inscription in Arabic translates as “A gift to President Gamal Abdel Nasser, Fahd Al Salem Al Sabah.”
Sheikh Fahd Al Salem Al Sabah was at the time of the gift (late 1950s) Prime Minister of Kuwait and subsequently Crown Prince before acceding to the throne in 1965. The recipient of the present Day-Date was Gamal Abdel Nasser Hussei, Egypt’s second president (1954-1970). Nasser led the Egyptian revolution of 1952 and introduced far-reaching land reforms the following year. He is best known not only for the nationalization of the Suez Canal but
also in his battles and reforms towards social justice, Arab unity, and his modernization policies. His presidency also encouraged and coincided with an Egyptian cultural boom, and the launching of large industrial projects.
President Nasser wore his Day-Date for numerous years until he gifted it in the late 1960s to Salah Asfar Shishtawai J. Dessouki, an Egyptian fencer who won bronze medals in three fencing disciplines across four editions of the World Championships and competed at the 1948 and 1952 Summer Olympics. Outside of sport, Dessouki had a career in politics. He served as Governor of Cairo, an Egyptian ambassador, and as regional director of the United Nations Environment Program and the Canadian International Development Research Centre for the Middle East and North Africa. He was also a member of the International Institute for Strategic Studies and chairman of Sinai Hotels. Upon Dessouki’s passing in 2011 the watch was handed to his grandson who is now entrusting Phillips with the sale of this testament of history and change.
Ref. 6511 Day-Date “From Al Sabah to Nasser”
GamalAbdelNasserandSheikhFahdAlSalemalSabah Nasser and Dessouki Gamal Abdel Nasser
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very rare platinum automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hours, leap year indicator, additional caseback, original certificate and box
Big, bold, and visually captivating, the reference 5074 stands as one of the most important grand complications ever crafted by Patek Philippe—a true magnet for discerning enthusiasts.
Since the early 2000s, Patek’s “50” series—including the 5070, 5016, and 5074—has defined a new era of bold design while staying true to the classic DNA of Geneva’s last family-owned manufacture. Among them, the 5074 is especially celebrated, drawing a direct lineage to the legendary ref. 3974 of 1989. Both models share a self-winding calibre with perpetual calendar and moon phases, paired with the poetry of a minute repeater. Yet, the 5074 elevates the experience further with a commanding 42mm case and cathedral gongs—crafted from a special alloy that coils one and three-quarter times around the movement—creating a resonance
PATEK PHILIPPE — A very rare platinum automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hours, leap year indicator, additional caseback, original certificate and box
First introduced in yellow gold in 2001, followed by pink gold in 2005 and finally platinum in 2009, the 5074 embodies a modern homage to the golden age of mid-20th-century grand complications. Its downturned fluted lugs, reminiscent of the iconic ref. 2499, balance vintage inspiration with technical might. With less than 15 examples having appeared at auction, the present 5074P, preserved in excellent condition marks a rare opportunity to acquire one of Patek Philippe’s most impressive grande complications.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly impressive, attractive and rare platinum perpetual calendar single-button split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, day and night indication, additional solid caseback, certificate of origin and presentation box
Patek Philipe has a long and unbroken history with perpetual calendar chronographs starting with the reference 1518 in 1941 but it wasn’t until 1996 and the launch of the reference 5004 that Patek Philippe added a split seconds mechanism to a serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, once again asserting the brand’s technical supremacy.
However, Patek Philippe had always relied on outsourced movements for its chronographs (Valjoux, Lemania) and in 2010 the brand presented its very first perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph with inhouse movement: reference 5159. An elegant single pusher model in a cushion case.
The reference 5372 – like the present example was launched in 2017 either with a vibrant blue dial or a salmon one.
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5372P-001
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly impressive, attractive and rare platinum perpetual calendar single-button split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, day and night indication, additional solid caseback, certificate of origin and presentation box
Extremely impressive, the perpetual calendar single button split-seconds chronograph timepiece features for the first time in the lineage a single button chronograph on top of all the other complications featured in the timepiece. Adopting a case design with countersunk and satin-finished flanks that is relatively similar to the split-seconds chronograph ref. 5370 measuring 43mm in diameter, the ref. 5372 impressively measures a smaller case dimension at 38.3mm diameter.
Differing from all its other counterparts and predecessors, the dial no longer features day and month windows above the signature at 12 O’clock and is instead replaced by moon phases above the signature at 12 O’clock with a day aperture positioned at 9 O’clock and its month aperture located opposite at 3 O’clock.
Discontinued in 2022, the present reference 5372P is so rare that it is only the 3rd example (2 with salmon dial and the present blue dial) to grace an international auction room.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An iconic, early and very well preserved stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds, date, integrated bracelet, invoice, certificate and presentation box
One of the earliest Nautilus watches ever produced, the present example was sold on August 25, 1977: just one year after the introduction of the model. Not only it is offered with its original Certificate and box, but also with its original sale invoice - a detail hardly ever found in watches nearly half a century old which will thrill the most demanding of collectors.
The result of a collaboration between Patek Philippe and designer Gérald Genta, the Nautilus’ unique appearance was inspired by maritime portholes and named for Captain Nemo’s submarine, the Nautilus, in Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Much as the fictional nautical vessel was described as “a masterpiece containing masterpieces,” so does the Nautilus wristwatch possess a numerous variety of artistic cues. The reference 3700 embodies every aspect of Patek Philippe’s avantgarde design philosophy of the 1970s, from the bold yet elegant curves, to the contrasting finish of the case, and even the delicate grooves of the dial culminating in a sublimely robust and elegant wristwatch. Its production is officially divided by Patek Philippe themselves into two distinct Series, with different reference numbers. The earliest specimens, such as the present one, belong to reference 3700/1 and present a larger, more robust bracelet tapering to 16mm. Later examples (from the early 1980s on) are dubbed 3700/11 and feature a 14mm tapering.
ROLEX — An extremely elusive and very attractive stainless steel automatic diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, “Explorer” dial, bracelet and Guarantee
Introduced around 1962, the Rolex reference 5513, alongside its counterpart the reference 5512, marked the inception of Submariner models equipped with crown guards. Prior iterations, such as the reference 6538 and 5508, featured no crown guards, a design Rolex soon deemed too delicate for the robust nature of a tool watch. The present example, however, transcends being merely a striking reference 5513 as it boasts an exclusive feature that skyrockets its collectability: an incredibly well-preserved Explorer dial.
Primarily associated with the Explorer I, hence its moniker, this dial type – defined be the 3, 6 and 9 Arabic numerals, rather than the usually seen dots - also appears on “Big Crown” Submariners like references 6200, 6538, and 5510, as well as references 5512 and 5513 featuring crown guards. Produced only during the first half of the 1960s, references 5512 and 5513 with “Explorer” dials are exceedingly scarce and highly sought after by collectors.
The present watch’s dial’s lacquered surface is preserved in stupendous condition, with just hints of the passage of time. The luminous numerals as well are in wonderful condition without losses. As the watch dates to 1964, one year after the switch to tritium from radium on part of Rolex (1963), the luminous material is indeed tritium, making this one of the earliest tritium Rolex dials ever made.
ROLEX — A rare and attractive white gold and diamond and sapphire-set dual time wristwatch with center seconds, date, bracelet, guarantee and box
The present example is a variation on the theme, characterised by an incredibly striking monochrome appearance. As defined by its suffix “SANR”, the bezel of this piece is adorned with black sapphires (Sapphire Noir) and diamonds, which dramatically alter the overall looks of the piece. The colourful red/blue bezel in in this case exclusively black and white, granting to the watch both aesthetic boldness and ultimate readability (even more impressive in a gem-set piece).
PATEK PHILIPPE — A highly rare and prestigious platinum automatic dual time wristwatch with minute repeater-style alarm mechanism, certificate of origin and presentation box
Introduced in 2019, the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time, reference 5520P, marked a bold and innovative addition to the brand’s Grand Complications collection. Drawing on the design codes of the beloved reference 5524G, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, the 5520P pays homage to early 20th-century aviation pioneers and Patek Philippe’s historic aviation watches. Its more complex sibling, the 5520P, elevated the concept to new heights, earning its place among Patek Philippe’s most exclusive offerings, available only to the brand’s most distinguished clients.
The present example, crafted in platinum, features a striking black dial with luminous markers, evoking the vintage Pilot watches of the mid-20th century. Rare and highly coveted, the reference 5520P has only appeared at auction on a handful of occasions, making this an exceptional opportunity for collectors. The present timepiece, having been serviced in July of this year is furthermore accompanied by its original accessories, including the Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, portfolio photograph, product literature, additional caseback, setting pin, presentation box, and outer packaging.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely scarce and coveted white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, moon phase, bracelet, Certificate of Origin, and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
By 2018, Patek Philippe had diversified its legendary Nautilus line up to include a vast array of complications – from a simple date to a chronograph to an annual calendar. It finally came time to introduce their signature complication in the Nautilus line as well, and at Baselworld, Patek Philippe launched the 5740G. With a lustrous 18K white gold case and bracelet, the caliber 240 Q – Patek’s ultra-slim perpetual calendar movement stamped with the Patek Philippe seal – beats within so that the case itself remains a mere 8.42mm, which is even slimmer than the reference 5712.
Well-balanced, with its signature ribbing, the chameleon-like blue dial changes depending on the lighting condition from a sky blue to a deep navy. It complements the warm grey luster of the case to create an exceptionally well-designed timepiece.
What can only be described as a “cherry” on top of the cake, this 5740 bears the coveted “Tiffany & Co.” stamp on the dial. To date, this is the third example to have come to the auction market with this dial. The watch, in excellent condition, is accompanied by its full suite of original accessories, including Tiffany blue outer box.
PATEK PHILIPPE
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superlatively rare, extremely refined and enormously collectible pink gold “First Series” perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds and moonphases
One of the most spectacularly well-preserved examples known, the present 2497 in pink gold is an absolute pinnacle of watch collecting both in terms of aesthetics as well as in terms of rarity and horological refinement.
It features the highly charming and desirable First Series dial, defined by Arabic and dot numerals (Second Series dials feature baton numerals) with sharp calendar windows and strong graphics. Furthermore, it feature an extremely uncommon details: a lens to magnify the calendar windows. Beyond remarkably altering the looks of the watch with a hint of quirkiness, this makes this watch one of the rarest iterations in all Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar production. In fact, already a pink gold 2497 is an absurdly rare timepiece: with less than a dozen (either 10 or 11) known examples, this makes it much more rare than a pink gold 1518 or 2499. Furthermore, in depth analysis of catalogue pictures of the other known pink gold examples appears to single this specimen out as the only pink gold 2497 with magnifying glass.
Beyond rarity, aesthetics and condition, the present watch even offers a layer of intellectual intrigue when examining its caseback. The inside is stamped with French import marks (the “Owl”)certifying an original sale in France, as fully supported by the French calendar - and it also presents a hand-engraved service mark ending with “+Z3”. This code was employed by hallowed Zurich retailer Beyer, indicating that at some point of its life the watch most likely found a new home in Switzerland.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A superlatively rare, extremely refined and enormously collectible pink gold “First Series” perpetual calendar wristwatch with center seconds and moonphases
Manufacturer PatekPhilippe Year 1954
Reference No. 2497
Movement No. 888’081
Case No. 683’320
Model Name “SecondialCentro”
Material 18kpinkgold
Unusually, two case makers were employed for the reference (akin to ref. 2499), each producing slightly different cases. Among other differences, Wenger cases - exemplified by the present watch - sport a “bombé” caseback while Vichet cases feature a flat back. This example boasts a superbly well-preserved case with intact grooves to the lugs, one of the most unusual and appreciated design details of this model, directly nherited from its chronographic brethren ref. 2499.
PATEK PHILIPPE — A new and highly coveted white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour indicator, leap year indicator, certificate of origin, additional caseback and presentation box, single sealed
Frequently dubbed as “one of the best watches ever made,” the Patek Philippe reference 5970 is a proud heir to Patek Philippe’s prestigious perpetual calendar chronographs. As the first model developed and designed by Thierry Stern upon his accession as president of the company, reference 5970 was first introduced in white gold, like the present watch, and then in pink gold, with later variations in yellow gold and platinum. Produced from 2004 until 2011, it was the last perpetual calendar chronograph model from Patek Philippe to use the Lemania 2310-based movement.
The design of the 5970 takes cues from the past but interprets them in a thoroughly modern way. Forty millimeters in diameter with faceted lugs, it was a notable increase in size from its immediate predecessor, the reference 3970. Still, the larger case does not jeopardize the symmetry and comfort of the watch at all; on the contrary, the watch is extremely wearable and retains a very balanced symmetry.
Preserved in new and single sealed condition with its full set of accessories including the Certificate of Origin and additional caseback, the present example is a wonderful opportunity to purchase a model that is dubbed by the collector community as one of the greatest Patek Philippe wristwatches of the modern era.
Please note the present watch comes with its CITES certificate and can as such be transported with its alligator strap
Ref. 5970G-001 “Single Sealed”
BREGUET — An exquisite and remarkable yellow gold perpetual calendar automatic wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, engine-turned dial and bracelet
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned;claspsignedby braceletmaker
Estimate
20,000–40,000
$25,000–50,000
€21,400–42,800
An integrated bracelet upgrade to the “standard” Breguet perpetual calendar, ref. 3050BA appears to be extremely elusive. Beyond the present example extremely few other specimens are known; the latest one we could find traded on the auction market dating back to April 2004.
A champion of its era and brand like few others, the present piece takes the very symmetric dial layout typical of the 1990s and dresses it in superb Breguet fashion, adorning it with guillochage, sunken subdials, brushed tracks and roman numerals.
BREGUET — A very complicated, charismatic and exquisitely decorated yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases, leap year indication, officier lugs and engine-turned dial
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned;bucklesignedby bucklemaker
Estimate
25,000–50,000
$31,300–62,600
€26,800–53,500
The present watch is an exceptional Breguet wristwatch manufactured in the early 90’s. It bears the obscure reference 3610 and features an exquisite Lemania based movement with a perpetual calendar and chronograph complication. It is furthermore fitted with a Gilbert Gaschen bracelet, amplifying the appeal of this lost treasure.
Reference 3610 appears to be virtually identical to reference 3617, which itself predates the better-known Breguet Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5617, originating in the early 2000s. The two latter models share very similar features features, with the primary distinction being the screw-back case on the 5617. Collectors highly value the earlier 3617 model, as it was produced in fewer numbers compared to the more recent 5617, making it a sought-after piece in the watch-collecting community. That is even more true for reference 3610, whose rarity well exceeds even that of ref. 3617.
So hardly-ever seen and studied is this reference, that even its genesis is a mystery to scholars. A common theory states that reference 3610 was soon changed to ref. 3617 - leaving the watch itself unmodified - due to internal reorganization (similarly to what happened in the 1980s at Audemars Piguet with ref. 5554/25554).
Other scholars point to very minute differences in the dial (the size of some fonts, minute details of the engraving) between ref. 3610 and 3617.
Whatever the raison d’être for this model, it does not change the fact that its appearance at auction happens less often than once in a blue moon, making this one of the most fascinating, rare, collectible and captivating Breguet. A true treat for the discerning collector of the hallowed brand.
AUDEMARS PIGUET — An impressive, complicated and sporty stainless steel automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, skeletonized dial, integrated bracelet, warranty and box
This example of perpetual calendar Royal Oak with skeletonized dial is the perfect watch for the horological connoisseur looking for a sporty yet refined and complicated timepiece. Offered in lovely condition and complete of its original 2009 Warranty, the watch furthermore comes with a 2018 Warranty from Italian “Orologeria Corso Sant’Anastasia”, allowing us to pinpoint in time and space one of the moments this piece was sold.
First launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an “unprecedented steel watch”, it was at the time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. The model became an icon and fan favorite for its rugged, masculine, and sporty aesthetic, and since its introduction, Audemars Piguet has produced many iterations of its original Royal Oak, experimenting with different case sizes, materials, and dial treatments. The reference 25829 was produced from 1996 to 2013 and made in 371 pieces in steel, 102 pieces in yellow gold, 174 in pink gold, 156 in platinum, 25 in steel and platinum plus another one made in 2006, 15 pieces in tantalum and yellow gold, 16 in tantalum and platinum, and 16 in tantalum and pink gold. The model is immensely charismatic with skeletonised yet extremely legible dial and fitted with the caliber 2120/2802 featuring a leap year indicator not seen on its predecessors. The superbly skeletonized movement can be admired on the dial side, with the caseback side featuring openworked plates and winding rotor which are delicately hand engraved.
ROLEX — A highly rare, attractive and perfectly preserved stainless steel automatic chronograph wristwatch with”porcelain” dial displaying “floating” logo, Rolex Japan caseback sticker, bracelet, Rolex Japan guarantee and presentation box
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1988
Reference No. 16520
Movement No. 10’915
Case No. R884394
Model Name CosmographDaytona“FloatingPorcelainDial”
Material Stainlesssteel Calibre Automatic,cal.4030,31jewels
A true “mint condition” timepiece, the present “Floating Cosmograph” Daytona was originally sold in Japan - as highlighted by the full set of Rolex Japan documents accompanying it. The condition of preservation of this timepieces cannot be overstated: all details of both case and dial are in absolute pristine condition. The sticker to the back is flawless, the luminous accents perfect, the dial pristine. In celebration of the Daytona’s 25th anniversary, Rolex released its first self-winding chronograph model, the reference 16520, at Baselworld 1988. Technically impressive, it was powered by the automatic Zenith El Primero calibre, which was substantially modified by Rolex. Over the years, this milestone timepiece has become a collectors’ favorite, with grail examples such as the early and rare “R” series chronographs like the present watch.
Indeed, while reference 16520’s popularity has increased dramatically in the past years, few automatic Cosmograph Daytonas are as beloved as the first-generation models ‘R Series’. As opposed to later examples, the Cosmograph script is set further apart from the first four lines of text, as if floating away toward the middle of the dial. Another charactieristic of early dials is the “inverted 6” on the 6 o’clock subsidiary register, highly appreciated by collectors today and which will be employed until the early 1990s. Floating dials lasted for a very short time before being updated to “4 liner” dials, which eliminate the “officially certified” line. Intriguingly, Rolex very soon went back on this decision and reinstated the full 5-line script, albeit this time the 5th line would be solid with the rest. The reference 16520 was also the first Daytona to be fitted with a sapphire crystal, and with a larger case diameter measuring 40 mm. Originally equipped with the rare 200 graduation bezel, later examples would have a bezel calibrated to 400 units.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An absolutely stunning and uber rare stainless steel wristwatch with three-tone dial and Breguet numerals
Introduced in 1938, the reference 570 was manufactured with both subsidiary and center seconds configurations and cased in stainless steel, the three gold colors, and platinum. While the most commonly seen version of the 570 features a very elegant but equally simple dial devoid of most graphics, there are exceptions to this rule.
At the pinnacle of reference 570 and all vintage Patek Philippe collecting, we find without a doubt the three-tone dials with applied Breguet numerals. A perfect combination of styles, these dials strike an incredible balance between flair (Breguet numerals, multi-tone dial) and restrained elegance: the overall tone-ontone result does not feel excessive or overly decorated. It is not a surprise that this dial style was re-interpreted in the modern era - and actually with very few modifications - on the reference 5196P first introduced in 2004. The three tones are made up of an outer, circular brushed and slightly darker silvered ring which displays the Breguet hour markers, a thinner mirrored ring dividing the inner and outer dial, and a grené silver center dial. Variants with both large and small Breguet numerals are known.
The present example is striking to its overall excellent state of preservation and the absolutely untouched and flamboyant three-tone dial. The rarity of this configuration of stainless steel 570 cannot be overstated. In our research, only four examples of a stainless steel 570 with large Breguet numerals and three-tone dial are known.
ROLEX — A striking and highly rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter scale
Manufacturer Rolex Year Circa1959
Reference No. 6234
Case No. 530’007
Model Name Pre-Daytona
Material Stainlesssteel
Calibre Manual,cal.72A,17jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle StainlesssteelRolexbuckle
Dimensions 37mmdiameter
Signed Case,dial,movementandbucklesigned
Estimate
15,000–30,000
$18,900–37,700
€16,100–32,100
Rolex’s production of the reference 6234 was extremely limited. Scholars theorize that, since the reference’s launch in 1955, approximately 2300 examples were produced in stainless steel while less than 150 examples were cased in 14k or 18k yellow gold. The reference ceased production after approximately six years of manufacture, replaced by reference 6238 in 1961 – the last “PreDaytona” reference.
Reference 6234 was fitted with a variety of dials, ranging from those with a matte or lacquer finish, to various subsidiary register sizes, and different scales and color combinations. These variations were most likely used to gauge the market’s aesthetic tastes for chronograph wristwatches. Fitted with a smooth bezel, the tachymeter scale is most notably printed on the dial - a feature shared with its successor reference.
Preserved in attractive overall condition, this is a rare opportunity to acquire a desirable and versatile example of Rolex’s PreDaytona chronograph, still aesthetically relevant in the modern era.
ROLEX
Ref. 6234 Pre-Daytona
PATEK PHILIPPE — A historically important, desirable and well preserved yellow gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphase display and leap year indication
Reference 3450 launched in 1981 is the successor to ref. 3448, Patek Philippe’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While aesthetically similar to its predecessor, it most notably features a leap year indication on the dial near 3 o’clock. In addition, its caseback is slightly smaller and is fitted with a “lip”, enabling it to be easily removed. It is the first serially made Patek Philippe wristwatch featuring leap year indication.
The case design of the model dates back to the 1960s (ref. 3448 was launched in 1962) and it is an ode to timelessly futuristic designs: the dial is airy and clean and the aesthetic impact of the watch is entrusted to the sculpted case defined by the straight, angular lugs, the large polished sloped bezel (thus its Italian nickname “Padellone” - meaning “big pan”) and the satin-finished band. Technically, the model represents one of the pinnacles of watchmaking. It is powered by the caliber 27-460Q, the perpetual (Q: Quantiême) upgrade of calibre 27-460 which is considered one of the finest automatic movements of all time.
While the first generation examples were fitted with a “red dot” to indicate the leap year, second generation examples displayed Roman numerals I, II, III and IV, like the present model. The present timepiece is very well preserved with crisp hallmarks on the flank and beautifully angled lugs. Due to its short run (1981 - 1985) Patek Philippe produced very limited quantities of reference 3450, typically casing the model in yellow gold. To date, scholars estimate that Patek Philippe produced only 237 examples in total - of which around 110 examples have come to the market - making it one of the rarest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar models ever produced in series
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 3450 “Padellone”
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An attractive and rare platinum chronograph wristwatch with date, power reserve indication, semitransparent luminous dial, guarantee and box, number 066 of a 200 pieces limited edition
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph is arguably one of the most fascinating chronograph wristwatches produced by a modern manufacture. With a beautiful combination of traditional watchmaking and fine aesthetics, the Datograph displays a wellbalanced dial layout on the front and when flipped to the movement side, it displays its in-house manual movement, expertly finished throughout with Glashütte stripes and signature hand-engraved balance cock. The oversized date window display, particular to Lange wristwatches and inspired by the Dresden Semper Opera clock, crowns the dial atop simplified and highly legible - and in this edition, luminous - seconds and minute counters. Traditionally produced in platinum and pink gold with a solid black dial, the “Lumen” transcends these aesthetics, bringing a completely fresh appeal to the famed model.
First introduced in December 2018, the Datograph “Lumen” was launched as a limited edition series of 200 pieces. Differentiating from its regular peers, the dial is where the magic happens. With a complex construction of the main dial in tinted sapphire, the translucency allows the main plate below to be exhibited, proudly displaying its precise perlage finish on the surface. Although many may think that the implementation of the tinted sapphire was purely for aesthetics, it serves an important purpose. The tinted sapphire dial allows the luminous material to absorb UV rays from daylight to be luminous at night. This feature applies to all luminous components on the dial including the tachymeter scale, subsidiary dials, date and power reserve indicator. The present example Datograph “Lumen”, numbered 66, is presented in excellent condition and is accompanied by its A. Lange & Söhne Guarantee, product literature, wallet, presentation box and outer packaging.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An impressive and massive yellow gold hunter cased two-train quarter repeating grande and petite sonnerie watch with lavishly engraved case
Dating from 1900 it is part of a very rare breed of pocket watches with open dial enabling one to admire the intricate movement beneath (based on a Piguet ébauche). The massive Louis XVstyle case features five-bar hinges demonstrating the incredible attention to detail.
The front cover features a finely engraved star chart, surrounded by an outer ring divided into twelve sectors indicating the zodiac, the back cover is lavishly engraved with its center depicting a memento mori of a skeleton, carrying a scythe, dancing in front of a five-pointed star, surrounded by an inscription in German that translates as “Your Final Hour is a Secret – Old Friend Skeleton remains Silent – He is the Leader in the Roundelay – The Dance of the Death – To him all must bow”.
Born in Dresden on 18 February 1815, Ferdinand Adolph Lange began his education at the Technische Bildungsanstalt in Dresden in 1829, where he split his time between theoretical studies and practical work under his master, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes (the maker of the famous 5-minute clock at the Dresden Semperoper). After completing his apprenticeship
in 1835, Lange worked with Gutkaes for two years before travelling across Europe to gain further experience in watchmaking. He spent time in France, managing the workshop of Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, and later travelled to Switzerland and England to refine his skills.
Lange returned to Dresden in 1841 with the goal of establishing a watchmaking industry in Saxony. He sought government support to start a factory in Glashütte, an economically struggling region and founded A. Lange & Cie in 1845. He aimed to industrialize the area and train apprentices, encouraging them to start their own businesses, thus creating a watchmaking hub in the region.
Lange’s innovations included the adoption of the metric system in watchmaking and the development of precision tools, including a micrometer capable of measuring millimeters to the thousandth. His company grew over the years, and in 1868, his son Richard joined the business, leading to the name change to A. Lange & Söhne. Ferdinand Lange was also active in local politics, serving as the mayor of Glashütte for 18 years before passing away on December 3, 1875.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE No. 42503 “Special
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — An impressive and massive yellow gold hunter cased two-train quarter repeating grande and petite sonnerie watch with lavishly engraved case
Under Richard and Emil Lange, the company continued to thrive. Emil earned prestigious honors, including the French Legion of Honor and the title of commercial councillor from King Frederick Augustus III of Saxony. A. Lange & Söhne became known for its high-quality hand-made watches, even as machine-made watches from other companies like Glashütte Präzisons-Uhrenfabrik began to dominate the market.
The present watch is featured in Die Uhren von A. Lange & Söhne, by Huber p. 181, table 68, where it is listed as one of only two Quarter Repeating Grande & Petite Sonnerie watches produced by A. Lange & Söhne, the other one having a different case.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
No. 42503 “Special Order Grande & Petite Sonnerie”
A. LANGE & SÖHNE — A superb and impressive split seconds chronograph honey gold wristwatch with guarantee and presentation box, number 85 of a limited edition of 100 pieces
Manufacturer A.Lange&Söhne Year 2022
Reference No. 425.050
Movement No. 149’584
Case No. 251’385,casebackfurtherengravedwithlimitededition number85/100
We are delighted to offer what is the very first A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante “Homage to F. A. Lange” to grace an international auction room. Launched in 2022 as a limited edition of 100 pieces of which the present example is number 85. This superlative split seconds chronograph housed in A. Lange & Söhne’s proprietary honey gold, a patented in-house developed alloy that emits a distinctive and unique warm golden hue. Apart from its exotic appearance, honey gold is a durable and more scratch-resistant compared to conventional yellow gold due to its increased hardness.
Made in celebration of the 175th anniversary of the establishment of Ferdinand Adolf Lange’s workshops in Glashütte – setting the foundations of Saxon and German watchmaking the present 1815 Rattrapante packs a heavy punch in many ways. Surprisingly whereas the brand had produced double and triple split seconds chronographs as well as a combination of the split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar with or without a tourbillon, it had never offered a simple split seconds chronograph until the launch of the present model.
The dial layout is different to other A. Lange & Söhne chronographs as minutes counter and continuous seconds counter are placed vertically. The movement, as one has come to expect with the brand is an architectural, three dimensional feat of unbridled horological magic with polished and grainé surfaces and hand engraved floral elements. In fact the movement decoration is different to other Lange timepieces as here the brand got inspiration from F. A. Lange’s category 1A historic pocket watches. In hardly worn condition the present limited edition 1815 Rattrapante is offered with its full set of accessories.
DÜRSTEIN AND CIE — A spectacular and historically important pink gold minute repeating, hunter cased split seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, grande and petite sonnerie clock watch with foudroyante hand and moonphase display
In 1895 the brand exhibited the present Grande Complication pocket watch at the World Fair in Chicago, to mark the 50th anniversary of the foundation of the Glashütte watch industry and it was also the first Grande Complication of its kind to come out of Glashütte. A total of six watches were subsequently produced. The absolute ultimate expression of watchmaking at its very finest, the present lot features the three elements that collectors and scholars define as a “Grande Complication”: a chiming function, a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds complication. However, the present example does not feature “just” any chiming function as along with a minute repeater it features what is considered a horological grail for both watchmakers and collectors alike: the Grande & Petite Sonnerie.
Very similar in design and layout to the A. Lange & Söhne Grande Complication pocket watches from the early 20th century (see Phillips Watches Geneva Watch Auction XXI – May 2025 lot 24 –sold for 1,168,400) the present lot has an extra feature in the form of a foudroyante or flying seconds hand placed at 6 o’clock along with the regular seconds hand. This foudroyante hand indicates 1/5th of a second. The watch is cased in a heavy pink gold hunter case, once opened the watch displays its full glory, the sonnerie activation pushers, the calendar indications, a moonphase display, the split-seconds chronograph hands, minutes counter and continuous seconds and 1/5th seconds. The main hour and minutes hands in Louis XV style complement the ensemble beautifully.
Opening the caseback reveals a superb architectural movement (based on an Audemars Piguet ébauche), with each component meticulously hand-finished for a spectacular result. The UnionDürrstein catalog description of this horological marvel stated: “the clock contains no fewer than 2,840 grooves, 121 levers and springs, 240 screws, 56 wheels and pinions, 850 drilled holes, 40 jewels, and 738 individual parts”! Johannes Dürrstein (1845–1901) played a pivotal role in shaping German watchmaking at the turn of the twentieth century.
Jubiläums-Uhr “Grande Complication”
DÜRSTEIN AND CIE — A spectacular and historically important pink gold minute repeating, hunter cased split seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, grande and petite sonnerie clock watch with foudroyante hand and moonphase display
Manufacturer DürsteinandCie Year 1895
Material 18kpinkgold Calibre Manual,AudemarsPiguetébauche,40jewels
Dimensions 69mmdiameter
Provenance
DrCrott,20May,1995,Frankfurt,lot482
Estimate
150,000–300,000
$188,000–375,000
€161,000–321,000
Accessories
Accompaniedbyfittedwoodbox.
Trained as a merchant in Frankfurt, he quickly recognized the demand for reliable and affordable timepieces in Central Europe. His Dresden-based wholesale firm, founded in 1874, distributed Swiss and German watches across the German Empire and beyond, at one point handling as many as 50,000 pocket watches annually. Dürrstein also cultivated close ties with Ferdinand Adolph Lange, negotiating the exclusive distribution of Lange watches and later convincing the company to create more accessible versions under the name Deutsche Uhren Fabrikation (DUF). This balance of commercial pragmatism and horological ambition set the stage for his most enduring contribution: the creation of his own brand.
In 1893, Dürrstein established the Uhrenfabrik Union in Glashütte (known today as Union Glashütte), relocating much of his production from Switzerland to Saxony. With Julius Bergter as technical director, the factory embraced modern ndustrial methods while remaining rooted in Glashütte’s tradition of precision. Union quickly distinguished itself by producing everything from simple chronographs to highly complicated pocket watches, including a Grande Complication in its very first year. Dürrstein was instrumental in elevating German watchmaking into the sphere of haute horlogerie, sourcing the finest ébauches for Union’s most ambitious projects. The pinnacle came in 1899 with the Universal-Uhr, built on an Audemars Piguet ébauche. At the time, it ranked as the most complicated pocket watch in the world, with 19 complications and 1,168 components. A UnionDürrstein Grand Complication pocket watch from this lineage is offered in the present catalogue. By the time the firm opened a new purpose-built manufactory in 1899, Union employed around 40 craftsmen and was already producing chronometers and tourbillons alongside its core pocket watches. Though Dürrstein’s death in 1901 cut short his personal involvement, the company carried on under his family, earning awards for its observation and marine chronometers before succumbing to the economic pressures of the interwar years. Today, Dürrstein’s vision remains a cornerstone of Glashütte’s horological and cultural history.
PATEK PHILIPPE — An incredibly attractive incredibly rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases and black dial, only one known
It is with great pleasure that we offer today not only a historically important and visually arresting timepiece but also one of only two known black dial reference 1526 making its auction return
2 decades after it was last offered in 2005. Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking reference 1526 was a landmark model as it was the very first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch. Launched in 1941 and in production until 1952, it forged a new path for the manufacture and would set the benchmark and standard for many perpetual calendar models to come.
The apparent simplicity of the case and dial underlines the exquisitely complicated movement, one that mechanically calculates the length of each month throughout the year, whilst also accounting for leap years. Over the decade reference 1526 was in production, only 210 pieces were ever made, the large majority in yellow gold, an extremely low number in pink gold and only one in steel known to date.
The 2002 Extract indicates that the watch was originally delivered in 1952 with a sliver dial, however, this watch first appeared on the market at Sotheby’s New York in 1989 and then again at Phillips in May 2002 both times with the present black dial that the market accepts as being original to this piece. Furthermore, the movement number is etched inside the dial as common with complicated Patek Philippe models of the time.
The strong case, long thick lugs and thin bezel enhance the impression of size and wrist presence. The hallmark on the case flank is still visible. However, the real show stopper is the black dial giving the watch incredible gravitas and aesthetic appeal.
Sold in 1952 when the reference 2497 (the successor to the reference 1526) was already launched, the present gem is most certainly amongst the very last reference 1526 models ever made.
Last appearing on the public market in 1988, the present Wenger First Series Patek Philippe 2499 represents an important rediscovery for top-tier collectors. Praised by many and yet rarely seen by most, the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 is with no doubt an absolute treasure in the rich heritage of the firm. To many collectors, it is perhaps one of the most impressive wristwatch models ever made by any manufacturer. Regarded as the most prestigious manufacturer of timepieces of the utmost quality, elegance and importance, Patek Philippe has garnered a loyal following of collectors through their technical mastery and great horological innovations. However, it was one of the firm’s most prized innovations that have secured their position as an all-time great: the perpetual calendar chronograph.
Being the first ever manufacture to release the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch in 1941 via the ref. 1518, it paved a new path of what would come next. Taking over the important reign in 1951, Patek Philippe released the coveted ref. 2499, which was still the only wristwatch with such complication in any watch catalogue at the time. Utilizing the same movement cal. 13-130 (Valjoux VZ 23 base) as the ref. 1518, the ref. 2499 boasted a completely new and refreshed case design. While the ref. 1518 features a rather traditional Calatrava inspired case with thin and elegant elongated lugs reminiscent of the stylistic period of the 1940s, collectors believe that the ref. 2499 is the perfect interpretation of a timeless appeal.
With excellent proportions and perfect symmetry, the ref. 2499 features an elegant bassine-style case with distinctive fluted lugs. Early examples of the reference featured a tachymeter scale, applied gold Arabic numerals and square chronographic pushers that are similar to the ref. 1518. Discontinued in 1985 with a production spanning 34 years, only 349 examples of the ref. 2499 left the manufacturer across all metals and series resulting in an average of 9 pieces made annually. PATEK
PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 2499 “First Series”
PATEK PHILIPPE — An extremely scarce, highly coveted and very important yellow gold First Series perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moonphases and Wenger case
Manufacturer PatekPhilippe Year Circa1950
Reference No. 2499
Movement No. 868’345
Case No. 687’761
Material 18kyellowgold
Calibre Manual,cal.13’’’,23jewels
Bracelet/Strap Leather
Clasp/Buckle Giltpinbuckle
Dimensions 37.5mmdiameter
Signed Case,dialandmovementsigned
Estimate
750,000–1,500,000
$938,000–1,880,000
€803,000–1,610,000
Accessories
- Third series (1960 – 1978): Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions, “floating” date ring, no tachometer scale.
- Fourth series (1978 – 1985): Round chronograph buttons, applied baton numerals, “floating” date ring, outer seconds divisions (shorter than Third Series), no tachometer scale, sapphire crystal commanding a thicker bezel.
Extremely scarce, it is estimated that less than 50 pieces throughout the entire production were examples from the First Series across all case metals. Bearing traits that are unique to the specific series transitioning over from the ref. 1518, the first series can also be subdivided into two separate generations with cases made by two different case makers, Vichet (Key no. 9) and the Wenger (Key no. 1), this watch being an example of the latter.
- Vichet Case: Identifiable via Key no. 9 inside the caseback. 36.2mm diameter. Flat caseback and elongated lugs. Vichet cases are found nearly exclusively within the First Series - with a couple of exception from the Second Series.
- First series (1951 – 1960): Square chronograph pushers, applied Arabic or baton numerals and tachometer scale. Furthermore divisible according to dial evolution as:
- bordered date ring, Arabic numerals - same design as ref. 1518. Thepresentwatch,representingtheearliestdesigniterationofthemodel.
- “floating” date ring, Arabic numerals
- “floating” date ring, Baton numerals
- Second series (1955 – 1964): Round chronograph buttons, either applied Baton or applied Arabic numerals, tachometer scale, “floating” date ring
- Wenger Case: Identifiable via Key no. 1 inside the caseback. 37.5mm diameter. Domed caseback with slightly shorter lugs. The larger diameter and shorter lugs grant this variation a markedly more modern look, so much so that Wenger-style cases will be employed until the end of the production of the model virtually unchanged (save for a bezel adjustment in the Fourth Series).
The present example Patek Philippe ref. 2499 from the First Series in yellow gold manufactured in a Wenger-made 37.5mm diameter case with bordered date Arabic dial is truly a rare and momentous occasion for vintage connoisseurs and collectors of the highest caliber to have the chance to acquire such an example. Hidden and tucked away in the same collection for nearly 40 years, its reappearance on the market marks a momentous occasion for collectors of fine and rare timepieces.
Jean-Claude Biver, Henry Chan, Helmut Crott, Ike Honigstock, Stephen Charles Li, David Lou, TK Mak, Auro Montanari, Jason Singer, Kenneth Wong
PaddleNumber
Please return this form by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com at least 24 hours before the sale. Please read carefully the information in the right column and note that it is important that you indicate whether you are applying to bid as an individual or on behalf of a company.
Please select the type of bid you wish to make with this form (please select one) In-person Absentee Bidding Telephone Bidding
Please indicate in what capacity you will be bidding (please select one):
• Ifyoucannotattendthesale,wecanexecutebidsconfidentiallyon your behalf.
• Phillipschargesthesuccessfulbidderacommission orBuyer’s Premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The Buyer’s Premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including CHF1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF1,000,000 up to and including CHF6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF6,000,000.
• “Buy”orunlimitedbidswillnotbeaccepted.Alternativebidscanbe placed by using the word “OR” between lot numbers.
• Forabsenteebids,indicateyourmaximumlimitforeachlot, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and any applicable VAT.Yourbid willbeexecutedatthelowestpricetakinginto account the reserve and other bidders. On no reserve lots, in the absence of other bids, your bid will be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount specified, if less than 50% of the low estimate.
• Yourbidmustbesubmittedinthecurrencyofthesaleandmaybe rounded down to the nearest amount consistent with the auctioneer’s bidding increments.
• If we receive identical bids, the first bid received will take precedence.
• Please submit your bids to the Bid Department by email to bidsgeneva@phillips.com or by fax at +41 22 317 8180 at least 24 hours before the sale. You will receive confirmation by email within one business day. To reach the Bid Department by phone please call +41 22 317 8181.
• Lotscannotbecollecteduntilpaymenthasclearedandallcharges have been paid.
• BysigningthisBidForm,youacknowledgeandunderstandthat we may process your personal data (including potentially special category data) in accordance with Phillips’s Privacy Policy as published at www.phillips.com or available by emailing dataprotection@phillips.com.
The following pages are designed to offer you information on how to buy at auction at Phillips. Our staff will be happy to assist you.
Conditions of Sale
The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty which appear later in this catalogue govern the auction. Bidders are strongly encouraged to read them as they outline the legal relationship among Phillips, the seller and the buyer and describe the terms upon which property is bought at auction. Please be advised that Phillips generally acts as agent for the seller. Bidders should also read the Important Notices immediately following this Guide for Prospective Buyers.
Buyer’s Premium and VAT
Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or Buyer’s Premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The Buyer’s Premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 27% of the hammer price up to and including 1,000,000, 21% of the portion of the hammer price above 1,000,000 up to and including 6,000,000 and 14.5% of the portion of the hammer price above 6,000,000.Value added tax (VAT) of 8.1% is payable on the hammer price and the Buyer’s Premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been stamped by Swiss customs. The purchase price payable for any lot is the sum of the hammer price plus the Buyer’s Premium plus VAT.
1 Prior to Auction
Catalogue Subscriptions
If you would like to purchase a catalogue for this auction or any other Phillips sale, please contact us at +41 22 317 8181, +44 20 7318 4010 or +1 212 940 1240.
Pre-Sale Estimates
Pre-sale estimates are intended as a guide for prospective buyers. Any bid within the high and low estimate range should, in our opinion, offer a chance of success. However, many lots achieve prices below or above the pre-sale estimates Where ‘Estimate on Request’ appears, please contact the specialist department for further information. It is advisable to contact us closer to the time of the auction as estimates can be subject to revision. Pre-sale estimates do not include the Buyer’s Premium or VAT.
Pre-Sale Estimates in US Dollars and Euros
Although the sale is conducted in Swiss francs, the pre-sale estimates in the auction catalogues may also be printed in US dollars and/or euros. Since the exchange rate is that at the time of catalogue production and not at the date of auction, you should treat estimates in US dollars or euros as a guide only.
Catalogue Entries
Phillips may print in the catalogue entry the history of ownership of a work of art, as well as the exhibition history of the property and references to the work in art publications. While we are careful in the cataloguing process, provenance, exhibition and literature references may not be exhaustive and in some cases we may intentionally refrain from disclosing the identity of previous owners. Please note that all dimensions of the property set forth in the catalogue entry are approximate.
Condition of Lots
Our catalogues include references to condition only in the descriptions of multiple works (e.g., prints). Such references, though, do not amount to a full description of condition. The absence of reference to the condition of a lot in the catalogue entry (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in the catalogue) does not imply that the lot is free from faults or imperfections. Solely as a convenience to clients, Phillips may provide condition reports. In preparing such reports, our specialists assess the condition in a manner appropriate to the estimated value of the property. While condition reports are prepared honestly and carefully, our staff are not professional restorers. We therefore encourage all prospective buyers to inspect the property at the pre-sale exhibitions and recommend,
particularly in the case of any lot of significant value, that you retain your own restorer or professional advisor to report to you on the property’s condition prior to bidding. Moreover, condition reports are not exhaustive and may not specify all mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate bases(s) or dome. The absence of a condition report or the absence of a reference to damage in the catalogue does not imply that the lot is in good condition, working order or free from restoration or repair.
Pre-Auction Viewing
Pre-auction viewings are open to the public and free of charge. Our specialists are available to give advice and condition reports at viewings or by appointment.
Symbol Key
The following key explains the symbols you may see inside this catalogue.
O Guaranteed Property
Lots designated with the symbol O are the subject of a minimum price guarantee. In such cases Phillips has guaranteed to the seller of the lot that regardless of the outcome of the sale the seller shall receive no less than a minimum sum. This guarantee may be provided solely by Phillips or jointly with a third party.
x Third Party Guarantee
Where Phillips has agreed to a minimum price guarantee it assumes the financial risk of a lot failing to sell or selling for less than the minimum price guarantee. Because the sums involved can be significant Phillips may choose to share the burden of that financial risk with a third party. The third party shares the risk by committing in advance of the sale, usually by way of a written bid, to buy the lot for an agreed amount whether or not there are competing bidders for the lot. If there are competing bidders third party guarantors may also bid above any written bid. In this way the third-party guarantor assumes the risk of the bidding not reaching the amount of the minimum price guarantee.
InreturnforunderwritingorsharingthisriskPhillipswillusuallycompensatethethirdparty. Thecompensationmaybeintheformofafixedfeeoranamountcalculatedbyreference tothehammerpriceofthelot.Ifthethird-partyguarantoristhesuccessfulbidderPhillips will report the purchase price net of any fees paid to the third-party guarantor.
Δ Property in which Phillips has an Ownership Interest
Lots with this symbol indicate that Phillips owns the lot in whole or in part or has an economic interest in the lot equivalent to an ownership interest.
• No Reserve
Unless indicated by a • all lots in this catalogue are offered subject to a reserve.
A reserve is the confidential value established between Phillips and the seller and below which a lot may not be sold. The reserve for each lot is generally set at a percentage of the low estimate and will not exceed the low pre-sale estimate.
- Endangered Species
Lots with this symbol have been identified at the time of cataloguing as containing endangered or other protected species of wildlife which may be subject to restrictions regarding export or import and which may require permits for export as well as import. Please refer to Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Paragraph 11 of the Conditions of Sale.
Undisclosed agreements between bidders to bid or abstain from bidding on lots are illegal. Please note that Phillips monitors its sales and bidding records to ensure that bidding is transparent and fair and will take appropriate action in the event of any suspected breach of this requirement.
Bidding in Person
To bid in person, you will need to register for and collect a paddle before the auction begins. New clients are encouraged to register at least 48 hours in advance of a sale to allow sufficient time for us to process your information. All lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address to which the paddle has been registered and invoices cannot be transferred to other names and addresses. Please do not misplace your paddle. In the event you lose it, inform a Phillips staff member immediately. At the end of the auction, please return your paddle to the registration desk.
Bidding by Telephone
If you cannot attend the auction, you may bid live on the telephone with one of our multilingual staff members. This service must be arranged at least 24 hours in advance of the sale and is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least 1,000. Telephone bids may be recorded. By bidding on the telephone, you consent to the recording of your conversation. We suggest that you leave a maximum bid, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and VAT, which we can execute on your behalf in the event we are unable to reach you by telephone.
Online Bidding
If you cannot attend the auction in person, you may bid online on our online live bidding platform available on our website at www.phillips.com. The digital saleroom is optimized to run on Google Chrome, Firefox, Opera and Internet Explorer browsers. Clients who wish to run the platform on Safari will need to install Adobe Flash Player. Follow the links to ‘Auctions’ and Digital Saleroom’ and then preregister by clicking on ‘Register to Bid Live.’ The first time you register you will be required to create an account; thereafter you will only need to register for each sale. You must pre-register at least 24 hours before the start of the auction in order to be approved by our bid department. Please note that corporate firewalls may cause difficulties for online bidders.
Absentee Bids
If you are unable to attend the auction and cannot participate by telephone, Phillips will be happy to execute written bids on your behalf. A bidding form can be found at the back of this catalogue. This service is free and confidential. Bids must be placed in the currency of the sale. Our staff will attempt to execute an absentee bid at the lowest possible price taking into account the reserve and other bidders. Always indicate a maximum bid, excluding the Buyer’s Premium and VAT. Unlimited bids will not be accepted. Any absentee bid must be received at least 24 hours in advance of the sale. In the event of identical bids, the earliest bid received will take precedence.
Employee Bidding
Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the huissier or the auctioneer (the ‘Auctioneer’), may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.
Bidding Increments
Bidding generally opens below the low estimate and advances in increments of up to 10%, subject to the Auctioneer’s discretion. Absentee bids that do not conform to the increments set below may be lowered to the next bidding increment.
3 The Auction
Conditions of Sale
As noted above, the auction is governed by the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty. All prospective bidders should read them carefully. By registering for the Auction bidders accept the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty They may be amended by saleroom addendum or Auctioneer's announcements.
Interested Parties Announcement
In situations where a person allowed to bid on a lot has a direct or indirect interest in such lot, such as the beneficiary or executor of an estate selling the lot, a joint owner of the lot or a party providing or participating in a guarantee on the lot, Phillips will make an announcement in the saleroom that interested parties may bid on the ot.
Consecutive and Responsive Bidding
The Auctioneer may open the bidding on any lot by placing a bid on behalf of the seller. The Auctioneer may further bid on behalf of the seller up to the amount of the reserve by placing consecutive bids or bids in response to other bidders.
No Reserve Lots
If a lot is offered without reserve, unless there are already competing absentee bids, the Auctioneer will generally open the bidding at 50% of the lot’s low pre-sale estimate. In the absence of a bid at that level, the Auctioneer will proceed backwards at his or her discretion until a bid is recognized and will then advance the bidding from that amount. Absentee bids on no reserve lots will, in the absence of a higher bid, be executed at approximately 50% of the low pre-sale estimate or at the amount of the bid if it is less than 50% of the low pre-sale estimate. If there is no bid whatsoever on a no reserve lot, the Auctioneer may deem such lot unsold.
4 After the Auction Payment
Buyers are required to pay for purchases immediately following the auction unless other arrangements have been agreed with Phillips in writing in advance of the sale. Payment must be made in Swiss francs by wire transfer, as noted in Paragraph 6 of the Conditions of Sale. Neither cash nor cheques will be accepted.
Credit Cards
As a courtesy to clients who have bid or bought in Phillips auctions previously, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of 100,000 or less. A processing fee will apply.
Collection
It is our policy to request proof of identity on collection of a lot. A lot will be released to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative when Phillips has received full and cleared payment and we are not owed any other amount by the buyer. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises.
Loss or Damage
Buyers are reminded that Phillips accepts liability for loss or damage to ots for a maximum of seven days following the auction.
Transport and Shipping
50 to 1,000 by 50s
1,000 to 2,000 by 100s
2,000 to 3,000 by 200s
3,000to 5,000 by 200s,500,800(i.e., 4,200,4,500,4,800)
5,000 to 10,000 by 500s
10,000 to 20,000 by 1,000s
20,000 to 30,000 by 2,000s
30,000 to 50,000 by 2,000s, 5,000, 8,000
50,000 to 100,000 by 5,000s
100,000 to 200,000 by 10,000s above 200,000 at the Auctioneer’s discretion
The Auctioneer may vary the increments during the course of the auction at his or her own discretion.
As a free service for buyers, Phillips will wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling or shipping services directly. However, we will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by you in order to facilitate the packing, handling and shipping of property purchased at Phillips. Please refer to Paragraph 7 of the Conditions of Sale for more information.
Export and Import
Before bidding for any property, prospective bidders are advised to make independent enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export the property from Switzerland or to import it into another country. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to comply with all import and export laws and to obtain any necessary licences or permits. The denial of any required licence or permit or any delay in obtaining such documentation will not justify the cancellation of the sale or any delay in making full payment for the lot.
Buyers should note that the export of items offered for sale in this Auction to certain countries (including Russia and Belarus) may be prohibited pursuant to Government sanctions and other regulatory measures in force from time to time.
Regulated Species
Items made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value, may require a licence or certificate prior to exportation and additional licences or certificates upon importation to the US or to any country within or outside the European Union (EU). Please note that the ability to obtain an export licence or certificate does not ensure the ability to obtain an import licence or certificate in another country, and vice versa. We suggest that prospective bidders check with their own government regarding wildlife import requirements prior to placing a bid. It is the buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any necessary export or import licences or certificates as well as any other required documentation. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis regarding continent of origin and confirmation the object is more than 100 years old. We have not obtained a scientific analysis on any lot prior to sale and cannot indicate whether elephant ivory in a particular lot is African or Asian elephant. Buyers purchase these lots at their own risk and will be responsible for the costs of obtaining any scientific analysis or other report required in connection with their proposed import of such property into the US.
With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the object qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certifying the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the ot.
Please note that lots containing potentially regulated plant or animal material are marked as a convenience to our clients, but Phillips does not accept liability for errors or for failing to mark lots containing protected or regulated species.
Privacy
Our Privacy Policy is available at www.phillips.com or by emailing dataprotection@ phillips.com and sets out: (i) the types of personal data we will or may collect and process; (ii) the purposes for which we will or may process your personal data; (iii) the lawful bases we rely on when processing your personal data; (iv) your rights in respect of our processing of your personal data; and (v) various other information as required by applicable laws.
Phillips premises, sale, and exhibition venues are subject to CCTV video surveillance and recording for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Phillips’ auctions will be filmed for simultaneous live broadcast on Phillips’ and third party websites and applications.
Your communications with Phillips, including by phone and online (e.g phone and on-line bidding) may be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process it in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Exportation of Watch Bands Incorporating Material from Regulated Species
Some of the watches offered for sale in the catalogue may have bands made of endangered or protected animal materials, such as alligator or crocodile, and may not lawfully be exported from the auction site without a CITES export permit. As explained in Paragraph 4 of the Guide for Prospective Buyers, these lots are marked with - in the catalogue. Accordingly, for purchased watches that are to be shipped out of the sale site for delivery, Phillips may need to remove and retain the band before shipping the watch and buckle.
Authenticity Certificates
Certain manufacturers do not issue certificates of authenticity, and Phillips has no obligation to furnish a buyer with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer, except when specifically noted in the catalogue. Unless Phillips is satisfied that we should cancel the sale in accordance with the Authorship Warranty provided in the Conditions of Sale, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds for cancellation of the sale.
Conditions of Sale
Effective as of 29 April 2025
The Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty set out below govern the relationship between bidders and buyers, on the one hand, and Phillips Fine Watches Limited (Geneva branch) registered in Geneva under number 380214667 (“Phillips”) and sellers, on the other hand. All prospective buyers should read these Conditions of Sale, the Important Notices immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers and the Authorship Warranty carefully before bidding.
1 Introduction
Each lot in this catalogue is offered for sale and sold subject to: (a) the Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty; (b) additional notices and terms in other places in this catalogue, including the Guide for Prospective Buyers and Important Notices (c) supplements to this catalogue including information accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue, and (d) other written material posted by Phillips in the saleroom, in each case as amended by any addendum or announcement by the auctioneer prior to the auction.
By bidding at the auction, whether in person, through an agent, by written bid, by telephone bid or other means, bidders and buyers agree to be bound by these Conditions of Sale, as so changed or supplemented, and Authorship Warranty. TheseConditionsofSale,assochangedorsupplemented,andAuthorshipWarranty containallthetermsonwhichPhillipsandthesellercontractwiththebuyer.
2 Phillips As Agent
Phillips acts as an agent for the seller, unless otherwise indicated in this catalogue or at the time of auction. On occasion, Phillips may own a lot directly, in which case we will act in a principal capacity as a consignor, or a company affiliated with Phillips may own a lot, in which case we will act as agent for that company, or Phillips or an affiliated company may have a legal, beneficial or financial interest in a lot as a secured creditor or otherwise.
3 Catalogue Descriptions and Condition of Property
Lots are sold subject to the Authorship Warranty, as described in the catalogue (unless such description is changed or supplemented, as provided in Paragraph 1 above) and in the condition that they are in at the time of the sale on the following basis.
(a) The knowledge of Phillips in relation to each lot is partially dependent on information provided to us by the seller, and Phillips is not able to and does not carry out exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Prospective buyers acknowledge this fact and accept responsibility for carrying out inspections and investigations to satisfy themselves as to the lots in which they may be interested. Notwithstanding the foregoing, we shall exercise such reasonable care when making express statements in catalogue descriptions or condition reports (including those accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) as consistent with our role as auctioneer of lots in this sale and in light of (i) the information provided to us by the seller, (ii) scholarship and technical knowledge and (iii) the generally accepted opinions of relevant experts, in each case at the time any such express statement is made.
(b) Each lot offered for sale at Phillips is available for inspection by prospective buyers prior to the auction. Phillips accepts bids on lots on the basis that bidders (and independent experts on their behalf, to the extent appropriate given the nature and value of the lot and the bidder’s own expertise) have fully inspected the ot prior to bidding and have satisfied themselves as to both the condition of the lot and the accuracy of its description.
(d) Information provided to prospective buyers in respect of any lot, including any pre-sale estimate, whether written or oral, and information in any catalogue, condition or other report, commentary or valuation, is not a representation of fact
but rather a statement of opinion held by Phillips. Any pre-sale estimate may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time by Phillips at our absolute discretion. Neither Phillips nor any of our affiliated companies shall be liable for any difference between the pre-sale estimates for any lot and the actual price achieved at auction or upon resale.
4 Bidding at Auction
(a) Phillips has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction or participation in the sale. All bidders must register for a paddle prior to bidding, supplying such information and references as required by Phillips.
(c) Telephone bidders are required to submit bids on the ‘Telephone Bid Form’, a copy of which is printed in this catalogue or otherwise available from Phillips. Telephone bidding is available for lots whose low pre-sale estimate is at least 1000 Phillips reserves the right to require written confirmation of a successful bid from a telephone bidder by fax or otherwise immediately after such bid is accepted by the Auctioneer. Telephone bids may be recorded and, by bidding on the telephone, a bidder consents to the recording of the conversation.
(e) When making a bid, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, a bidder accepts personal liability to pay the purchase price, as described more fully in Paragraph 6 (a) below, plus all other applicable charges.
(f) By participating in the auction, whether in person, by absentee bid, on the telephone or online, bidders represent, warrant and confirm that (i) unless otherwise expressly agreed in writing with Phillips prior to the auction, they are bidding on their own behalf and not on behalf of anyone else (ii) they will be paying the Purchase Price from their own funds (iii) that their participation in the auction and payment of the Purchase Price is lawful and shall not breach any applicable sanctions laws, (iv) they are not resident or located in a sanctioned jurisdiction including but not limited to Russia, Belarus, Iran and North Korea; and (v) any bids placed by them, or on their behalf, are not the product of any collusive or other anti-competitive agreement and are not otherwise in breach of any applicable law, Government sanctions and other regulatory measures in force from time to time.
(g) Arranging absentee, telephone and online bids is a free service provided by Phillips to prospective buyers. While we undertake to exercise reasonable care in undertaking such activity, we cannot accept liability for failure to execute such bids except where such failure is caused by our willful misconduct.
(h) * Premium Lots
Lots with the symbol [*] are Premium Lots. To bid on Premium Lots prospective buyers must complete and satisfy Phillips’ Premium Lot pre-registration procedure no later than 24 hours before the start of the auction session in which the Lot is offered. Premium Lot paddles will be issued to bidders who complete and satisfy the Premium Lot pre-registration procedure. The Auctioneer will only accept bids from Premium Lot paddles in respect of Premium Lots. Please contact the department organizing the auction for further details.
(i) Employees of Phillips and our affiliated companies, including the auctioneer, may bid at the auction by placing absentee bids so long as they do not know the reserve when submitting their absentee bids and otherwise comply with our employee bidding procedures.
(b) The Auctioneer has discretion at any time to refuse any bid, withdraw any ot, reoffer a lot for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if he or she believes there may be error or dispute and take such other action as he or she deems reasonably appropriate. Phillips shall have no liability whatsoever for any such action taken by the Auctioneer. If any dispute arises after the sale, our sale record is conclusive. The Auctioneer may accept bids made by a company affiliated with Phillips provided that the bidder does not know the reserve placed on the lot.
(b) VAT of 8.1% is payable on the hammer price plus Buyer’s Premium. This tax is refunded to any buyer domiciled outside Switzerland if, but only if, Phillips receives from such buyer an export declaration in respect of a purchased lot which has been
stamped by Swiss customs. All prices, fees, charges and expenses set out in these Conditions of Sale are quoted exclusive of VAT.
(c) Payments must be made by the invoiced party in Swiss francs Please reference the relevant invoice number.
Payment is due immediately following the auction regardless of any intention to obtain an export or import license or other permit for such lot.
Interest will be charged on late payment at the rate of 12% per annum.
(d) If you are a new client bidding online in our Auction for the first time, as a security measure you will be required to pay for your lots by wire transfer only. This is our standard policy for all new online buyers.
As a courtesy to clients who have bid or bought in our sales previously, Phillips will accept American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Poste Carte, Maestro, and CUP (in person transactions only for CUP) to pay for invoices of 100,000 or less A processing fee will apply.
(e) Title in a purchased lot will not pass until Phillips has received the Purchase Price for that lot in cleared funds. Phillips is not obliged to release a lot to the buyer until title in the lot has passed and appropriate identification has been provided, and any earlier release does not affect the passing of title or the buyer’s unconditional obligation to pay the Purchase Price.
7 Collection of Property
(a) Phillips will not release a lot to the buyer until we have received payment of its Purchase Price in full in cleared funds, the buyer has paid all outstanding amounts due to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies, including any charges payable pursuant to Paragraph 8 (a) below, and the buyer has satisfied such other terms as we in our sole discretion shall require, including providing information and documentation we require to satisfy our customer due diligence and verification checks for Know Your Customer compliance purposes and completing any antimoney laundering, anti-terrorism financing and sanctions checks. As soon as a buyer has satisfied all of the above conditions, he or she should contact us at +41 22 317 8181 to arrange for collection of purchased property.
(b) The buyer must arrange for collection of a purchased lot within seven days of the date of the auction. After the auction, all lots will be kept at our premises. Purchased lots are at the buyer’s risk, including the responsibility for insurance, from (i) the date of collection or (ii) seven days after the auction, whichever is the earlier. Until risk passes, Phillips will compensate the buyer for any loss or damage to a purchased lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price paid, subject to our usual exclusions for oss or damage to property.
(c) As a courtesy to clients, Phillips will, without charge, wrap purchased lots for hand carry only. We do not provide packing, handling, insurance or shipping services. We will coordinate with shipping agents instructed by the buyer, whether or not recommended by Phillips, in order to facilitate the packing, handling insurance and shipping of property bought at Phillips. Any such instruction is entirely at the buyer’s risk and responsibility, and we will not be liable for acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. Property will be collected by the buyer at the point it is released in the sale location by Phillips to the buyer or to a third-party shipper acting for the buyer. The buyer is responsible for paying any import duties and local taxes payable to import the Property to its final destination.
(d) Phillips will require presentation of government-issued identification prior to release of a lot to the buyer or the buyer’s authorized representative.
8 Failure to Collect Purchases
(a) If the buyer pays the Purchase Price but fails to collect a purchased lot within 30 days of the auction, the buyer will incur a late collection fee of 10 per day for each uncollected lot. We will not release purchased lots to the buyer until all such charges have been paid in full.
(b) If a purchased lot is paid for but not collected within six months of the auction, the buyer authorizes Phillips, upon notice, to arrange a resale of the item by auction or private sale, with estimates and a reserve set at Phillips’s reasonable discretion. The proceeds of such sale will be applied to pay for storage charges and any other outstanding costs and expenses owed by the buyer to Phillips or our affiliated
companies and the remainder will be forfeited unless collected by the buyer within two years of the original auction.
(b) The buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to exercise a lien over the buyer’s property which is in our possession upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment. Phillips will notify the buyer of any such lien. The buyer also irrevocably authorizes Phillips, upon notification by any of our affiliated companies that the buyer is in default of payment, to pledge the buyer’s property in our possession by actual or constructive delivery to our affiliated company as security for the payment of any outstanding amount due. Phillips will notify the buyer if the buyer’s property has been delivered to an affiliated company by way of pledge.
(c) If the buyer is in default of payment, the buyer irrevocably authorizes Phillips to instruct any of our affiliated companies in possession of the buyer’s property to deliver the property by way of pledge as the buyer’s agent to a third party instructed by Phillips to hold the property on our behalf as security for the payment of the Purchase Price and any other amount due and, no earlier than 30 days from the date of written notice to the buyer, to sell the property in such manner and for such consideration as can reasonably be obtained on a forced sale basis and to apply the proceeds to any amount owed to Phillips or any of our affiliated companies after the deduction from sale proceeds of our standard vendor’s commission, all sale-related expenses and any applicable taxes thereon.
10 Rescission by Phillips
Phillips shall have the right, but not the obligation, to rescind a sale without notice to the buyer if we reasonably believe that there is a material breach of the seller’s representations and warranties or the Authorship Warranty or an adverse claim is made by a third party. Upon notice of Phillips election to rescind the sale, the buyer will promptly return the lot to Phillips, and we will then refund the Purchase Price paid to us. As described more fully in Paragraph 13 below, the refund shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips and the seller with respect to such rescinded sale.
11 Export, Import and Endangered Species Licences and Permits
Before bidding for any property, prospective buyers are advised to make their own enquiries as to whether a licence is required to export a lot from Switzerland or to import it into another country. Prospective buyers are advised that some countries prohibit the import of property made of or incorporating plant or animal material, such as coral, crocodile, ivory, whalebone, Brazilian rosewood, rhinoceros horn or tortoiseshell, irrespective of age, percentage or value. Accordingly, prior to bidding, prospective buyers considering export of purchased lots should familiarize themselves with relevant export and import regulations of the countries concerned. Please note that the US prohibits the importation of any item containing
African elephant ivory. Asian elephant ivory may be imported in to the US only if accompanied by independent scientific analysis of continent of origin and confirmation the object is more than 100 years old.
With regard to any item containing endangered species other than elephant ivory, an importer into the US must provide documented evidence of the species identification and age of an object in order to demonstrate that the item qualifies as an antique. This will require the buyer to obtain an independent appraisal certify the species of endangered material on the object and certifying that the object is not less than 100 years of age. A prospective buyer planning to import an object containing endangered species into the US may not rely on Phillips cataloguing to establish the species of endangered material on the object or to establish the age of the object and must consult with a qualified independent appraiser prior to placing a bid on the lot.
Buyers should note that they are responsible for all charges, duties and taxes related to the exportation and importation of lots shipped by them or shipped on their behalf, including any applicable Sales and/or Use Taxes which may be due on importing the property to the United States.
Export and Import Bans and Restrictions
Buyers should note that the export of items offered for sale in this Auction to certain countries (including Russia and Belarus) may be prohibited pursuant to Government sanctions and other regulatory measures in force from time to time. Please contact the department organising the auction for further details.
12.
US Imports Customs Tariffs
Buyers intending to import property into the United States of America should note that US Customs may charge an additional import duty and/or special tariff upon the Importation of property which originates outside the US or which is created or manufactured outside the US. Original, hand-made or limited editions of artworks, sculptures, prints, photographs and/or lithographs which constitute “Informatlonal Materials” may be exempt. US bidders are advised to check with their local customs office in advance of bidding in the sale. Buyers are responsible for paying any applicable tariffs, taxes and charges when importing property.
Where known to us, Phillips will indicate in the cataloguing of Lots, the country in which the Lot was made, manufactured, or originated. Please note, however, that any such indications are given by us only as a convenience to bidders. Phillips does not accept liability for errors, including falling to indicate this information.
Your communications with Phillips, including by telephone and online (e.g. telephone and on-line bidding) may also be recorded for security, client service and bid monitoring purposes. Where we record such information we will process t in accordance with our Privacy Policy available at www.phillips.com.
14 Limitation of Liability
(a) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, the total liability of Phillips our affiliated companies and the seller to the buyer in connection with the sale of a lot shall be limited to the Purchase Price actually paid by the buyer for the lot.
(b) Except as otherwise provided in this Paragraph 14, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller (i) is liable for any errors or omissions whether orally or in writing, in information provided to prospective buyers by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies or (ii) accepts responsibility to any bidder in respect of acts or omissions, whether negligent or otherwise, by Phillips or any of our affiliated companies in connection with the conduct of the auction or for any other matter relating to the sale of any lot.
(c) All warranties other than the Authorship Warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of satisfactory quality and fitness for purpose, are specifically excluded by Phillips, our affiliated companies and the seller to the fullest extent permitted by law.
(d) Subject to sub-paragraph (e) below, none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable to the buyer for any loss or damage beyond the refund of the Purchase Price referred to in sub-paragraph (a) above, whether such loss or damage is characterised as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the Purchase Price to the fullest extent permitted by law.
(e) No provision in these Conditions of Sale shall be deemed to exclude or limit the liability of Phillips or any of our affiliated companies to the buyer in respect of any fraud or fraudulent misrepresentation made by any of us or in respect of death or personal injury caused by our negligent acts or omissions.
15 Copyright The copyright in all images, illustrations and written materials produced by or for Phillips relating to a lot, including the contents of this catalogue, is and shall remain at all times the property of Phillips and such images and materials may not be used by the buyer or any other party without our prior written consent. Phillips and the seller make no representations or warranties that the buyer of a lot will acquire any copyright or other reproduction rights in it.
16 General
(a) These Conditions of Sale, as changed or supplemented as provided in Paragraph 1 above, and Authorship Warranty set out the entire agreement between the parties with respect to the transactions contemplated herein and supersede all prior and contemporaneous written oral or implied understandings, representations and agreements.
(b) Notices to Phillips shall be in writing and addressed to the department in charge of the sale, quoting the reference number specified at the beginning of the sale catalogue. Notices to clients shall be addressed to the last address notified by them in writing to Phillips.
(c) These Conditions of Sale are not assignable by any buyer without our prior written consent but are binding on the buyer’s successors, assigns and representatives.
(d) Should any provision of these Conditions of Sale be held void, invalid or unenforceable for any reason, the remaining provisions shall remain in full force and effect. No failure by any party to exercise, nor any delay in exercising, any right or remedy under these Conditions of Sale shall act as a waiver or release thereof in whole or in part.
17 Law and Jurisdiction
(a) The rights and obligations of the parties with respect to these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty, the conduct of the auction and any matters related to any of the foregoing shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with Swiss law.
(b) For the benefit of Phillips, all bidders and sellers agree that the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva, Switzerland are to have exclusive jurisdiction to settle all disputes arising in connection with all aspects of all matters or transactions to which these Conditions of Sale and Authorship Warranty relate or apply, subject to appeal to the Federal Tribunal. All parties agree that Phillips shall retain the right to bring proceedings in any court other than the ordinary courts of the Canton of Geneva.
(c) All bidders and sellers irrevocably consent to service of process or any other documents in connection with proceedings in any court by facsimile transmission, personal service, delivery by mail or in any other manner permitted by Swiss law, the law of the place of service or the law of the jurisdiction where proceedings are instituted at the last address of the bidder or seller known to Phillips.
Authorship Warranty
Phillips warrants the authorship of property in this auction catalogue described in headings in BOLD or CAPITALIZED type for a period of five years from date of sale by Phillips, subject to the exclusions and limitations set forth below and the Important Notices set out in this catalogue immediately following the Guide for Prospective Buyers.
(a) Phillips gives this Authorship Warranty only to the original buyer of record (i.e., the registered successful bidder) of any lot. This Authorship Warranty does not extend to (i) subsequent owners of the property, including purchasers or recipients by way of gift from the original buyer, heirs, successors, beneficiaries and assigns; (ii) property where the description in the catalogue (including descriptions accessed via QR Codes appearing in this catalogue) states that there is a conflict of opinion on the authorship of the property; (iii) property where our attribution of authorship was on the date of sale consistent with the generally accepted opinions of specialists, scholars or other experts; (iv) property whose description or dating is proved inaccurate by means of scientific methods or tests not generally accepted for use at the time of the publication of the catalogue or which were at such time deemed unreasonably expensive or impractical to use or likely in our reasonable opinion to have caused damage or loss in value to the lot; or (v) property where there has been no material loss in value from the value of the lot had it been as described in the heading of the catalogue entry.
(b) In any claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty, Phillips reserves the right, as a condition to rescinding any sale under this warranty, to require the buyer to provide to us at the buyer’s expense the written opinions of two recognized experts approved in advance by Phillips. We shall not be bound by any expert report produced by the buyer and reserve the right to consult our own experts at our expense. If Phillips agrees to rescind a sale under the Authorship Warranty, we shall refund to the buyer the reasonable costs charged by the experts commissioned by the buyer and approved in advance by us.
(c) Subject to the exclusions set forth in subparagraph (a) above, the buyer may bring a claim for breach of the Authorship Warranty provided that (i) he or she has notified Phillips in writing within three months of receiving any information which causes the buyer to question the authorship of the lot, specifying the auction in which the property was included, the lot number in the auction catalogue and the reasons why the authorship of the lot is being questioned and (ii) the buyer returns the lot to Phillips to the salesroom in which it was purchased in the same condition as at the time of its auction and is able to transfer good and marketable title in the lot free from any third party claim arising after the date of the auction. Phillips has discretion to waive any of the foregoing requirements set forth in this subparagraph c) or subparagraph (b) above.
(d) The buyer understands and agrees that the exclusive remedy for any breach of the Authorship Warranty shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original Purchase Price paid. This remedy shall constitute the sole remedy and recourse of the buyer against Phillips, any of our affiliated companies and the seller and is in lieu of any other remedy available as a matter of law or equity. This means that none of Phillips, any of our affiliated companies or the seller shall be liable for loss or damage beyond the remedy expressly provided in this Authorship Warranty, whether such loss or damage is characterized as direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential, or for the payment of interest on the original Purchase Price.
