The American Hotel Bar
Sag Harbor’s most civilized spot
The wall is covered with paintings, the lighting is low, and there’s a big moose head hanging in the corner. Have a seat at the bar to debate the merits of a good Negroni or tuck into the corner for some backgammon and fondue – it’s all about old-style elegance here. “It seems everyone eventually ends up at the American Hotel,” admits hotel spokesperson Taylor Berry. “It’s just a matter of time.”
This soaring brick structure has been lording over Main Street in Sag Harbor since 1846. It fell into disrepair but was revived in 1972 by the present owner. Ever since then, it’s been the go-to place for writers, musicians, politicians, artists, locals, and tourists. People say the cozy bar has a cinematic, European feel, with its rattan chairs, wispy ferns, and tiny table lamps. Writer John Steinbeck used to hang out on the porch. Singer Billy Joel is known to stop in for a night cap. But mostly it’s the sense of familiarity that brings people here. Even first-time visitors start to feel like regulars. No doubt many secrets have been spilled in this dark paneled bar, a sort of modernday speakeasy. And presiding over it all are the beloved bartenders, the stars of the show. “They can pour a perfect martini or make a margarita with a secret ingredient,” Berry admits. “They are part priest, part therapist, part bartender.”
In the summertime, the cozy front porch is the best place to watch the Hamptons world go by. Graceful white columns and crisp tablecloths set a very civilized tone. Fresh flowers dot the tables, while boxwood plantings frame this intimate space. Countless business deals have been hatched here amidst stories of the old days, when the police would handcuff prisoners to the porch if the jail located just behind was full. This bar is filled with history, good cheer, and camaraderie – a sort of communal living room for the entire town. “We are a constant,” admits Berry. “You enter as strangers but leave as friends.”
Address 49 Main Street, Sag Harbor, NY 11963, +1 (631) 725-3535, www.theamericanhotel.com | Getting there NY 27 to Bridgehampton, BridgehamptonSag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton Main Street | Hours Daily noon – midnight | Tip
Visit the tiny ca. 1916 Old Jail Museum right behind the hotel, where prisoners were once kept. Open late May – Columbus Day by appointment only (70 Division Street, Sag Harbor, www.sagharborhistorical.org/the-old-jail-museum).
Brix & Rye
Fancy drinks in a hidden hangout
It’s an empty storefront in downtown Greenport. So from the outside, you’d never know what was happening here on the inside. The walls are covered in blue damask, and a lone shuffleboard table sits up front. But take the staircase to the lower level, and you’ve entered the world of the cocktail renaissance: a modern speakeasy right on the North Fork.
“It’s fun and playful, but no secret password,” admits Evan Bucholz, the raspy-voiced proprietor and mixologist of this beloved hideout. The mood is dark and sultry, with brick walls, cozy little tables, and flickering candlelight. Cocktails are being shaken. Ice chunks clank into glass tumblers. And all along the bar, little flasks hold bitters, extracts, and essential oils. The drinks here are elegant, but the setting is relaxed.
“Welcome! How are you doing tonight?” Bucholz greets two new arrivals, who take a seat at the bar. Cocktail immersion is about to begin. The Northside Collins is a tall drink, mixing gin, cucumber, and grapefruit flavors, all topped with a bouquet of mint. Don’s Beach Planter has rum, absinthe, brandy, and pineapple. The luscious Clarified Milk Punch blends rum, tea, apple, and lemon – clarified with milk. “That’s why cocktails are so interesting,” Bucholz muses. “They are made specifically for you in that moment – they’re temporal and special.” Bucholz was destined for academia when he fell in love with mixology and changed course. You’ll notice a scholarly flair to his menu, which lists the year and location various cocktails were created.
Finally, save room for the brick oven pizza served here, all from 1943 Pizza Bar next door. Their Clams Casino is a white pie with fresh clams, bacon, and green peppers. The Italian Scallion features red mozzarella, spinach, and scallion. Chic pizza and elegant cocktails served in a secret lounge create the quintessential North Fork night on the town.
Address 308A Main Street, Greenport, NY 11944, +1 (631) 477-6985, www.brixandrye.com | Getting there NY 25 (Front Street) to Greenport, north on Main Street | Hours Thu – Tue 5 – 10pm for pizza, until 1:30am for drinks | Tip Shop for fabulous frocks at the super stylish Boutique, at the American Beech hotel (300 Main Street, Greenport, www.americanbeech.com).
Farm Stands
In search of roadside jewels
People on the East End are passionate about their farm markets. Of all the local joys, discovering the little farm stands dotted along the roadway may be the most beloved adventure of all. In the 1950s, this far tip of Long Island had potato farms galore. The cool ocean breezes and rich soil provided a perfect growing environment. Farming continues today, albeit on a smaller scale. The next luscious tomato is always just around the bend.
Head to Marilee Foster’s farm stand in Sagaponack, and you’ll find an artful surprise. Foster not only farms the land, she makes colorful drawings of her produce as well – little vegetable characters she dreams up. Anna Noir features a tomato dressed like a film noir star, while a red pepper is turned into a Spanish dancer. Foster is a sixth-generation farmer, and her diminutive farm stand is a local favorite, so coming here makes you feel like a neighbor. Look for their Tiger Spuds potato chips and her family’s latest venture: potatobased vodka. It’s farming for the modern day.
At the Green Thumb farm stand (829 Montauk Highway, Water Mill), it’s all about organic fruits and vegetables. The Halsey family has been farming the land since the mid-1600s. You feel the legacy with their produce-laden wooden tables heaped with corn, carrots, and cauliflower. Little signs dole out produce wisdom about items such as this one near the tiny fairytale eggplants, Cook fast, great on the grill or roasted whole.
The handsome Balsam Farm Stand (293 Town Lane, Amagansett) features perfect produce vignettes that look photoshoot ready. Tidy cartons of sugar snap peas, neat bundles of red radishes. Their wagon-load of corn on the cob proclaims, “Our own corn, it’s world famous.” They sell their own pickles, beets, and corn relish here too. Don’t miss the lovely painting of their favorite farm dog, it’s hung right over the back door.
Address Marilee’s Farmstand, 698 Sagg Main Street, Sagaponack, NY 11962, www.marileesfarmstand.com | Getting there NY 27 to Sagaponack, south on Sagg Main Street | Hours Open spring – fall | Tip Sagaponack is the perfect hamlet for driving along the backroads. Turn down one of the many roads off Sagg Main Street, and you’ll see some of the East End’s best terrain.
Hank’s PumpkinTown
Having an orange crush
There is something so very appealing about a fall afternoon spent at the beloved Hank’s PumpkinTown in Water Mill. You’ll see fields dotted with thousands and thousands of bright-orange orbs. Tall corn mazes shimmer in the distance. A big red barn is filled with sweet autumnal treats. It’s old-time Hamptons fun that feels like a mini state fair all on its own.
Everything here starts with the pumpkins. Giant orange ones are piled high on antique wagons, while the tiniest ones are sorted into neat bins. One field is filled only with white pumpkins – pure and pristine. Specially grown blush-pink pumpkins look stylish. Everywhere you look, families are posing for pictures, toddlers are trying to eat their first Carmel Apple. This is the iconic fall outing in the Hamptons after the summer crowds have gone, the time of year when the sky is the bluest of blue.
Farmers Hank and Lynne Kraszewski created PumpkinTown some 30 years ago after prices for their potatoes declined. So they started growing corn, flowers, and pick-your-own pumpkins, and the idea was born. There are activities galore here, like giant slides, pedal-kart racetrack, and a family corn train. Little ones can learn about milking cows or pan for gemstones. There is a small corn maze and a massive, hour-long maze, where visitors find clues to see who stole Farmer Joe – it’s a corn world mystery.
Everyone ends up in the food barn, where their apple cider donuts are being made right before your eyes. Eat them warm or try one of their cider donut ice cream sundaes. They are known for their freshly-roasted Hank’s corn, picked from the fields that very morning. And finally, for the weary parents who might be a bit overwhelmed by all the activities, they’ve even added a little tasting area where you can sample Hank’s Hard Cider, an alcoholic drink in flavors of raspberry or semisweet apple.
Address 240 Montauk Highway, Water Mill, NY 11976, +1 (631) 726-4667, www.hankspumpkintown.com | Getting there NY 27 to Water Mill | Hours See website for seasonal hours | Tip Sample one of the pies, or the iconic peach salsa at Hank’s Farmstand, one of the best farm stands in the Hamptons, open seasonally (324 County Road 39A, Southampton).
Leiber Collection
Bejeweled bags in a secret garden
The East Hampton woods are not the place you would expect to find a Renaissance-style temple. But there it is, just off a sleepy road in Springs. It was designed by artist Gerson (Gus) Leiber to hold hundreds of jeweled evening bags, all created by his muse and wife, the iconic Judith Leiber. The place positively sparkles. Yes, that’s a jeweled red tomato the same size as the real thing. There’s a sleeping calico cat and an intricately patterned peacock. Each creation is both witty and wonderful, just like the Leibers themselves.
Theirs was a glistening love story. The Hungarian-born Judith met the American soldier Gus in Europe during WWII. They moved to New York City, where Judith opened her business in 1963. Suddenly, First Ladies were carrying these chic bags to inaugurations. Society ladies were collecting them by the dozens. Gus helped run the business and devoted himself to printmaking and painting. He was inspired by the gardens of their East Hampton home, where they retreated on weekends.
In 2005 Judith retired, and this museum was built, set into a fairy-tale garden. Judith began scouring flea markets to buy back her creations. Here is her Chatelaine, the first metal bag she created, inspired by the gold bags carried by royalty. These colorful envelope bags were inspired by artists like Georges Braque and Piet Mondrian. And this jeweled New York City bag features the Chrysler building. “Judith would see a handbag in everything,” says museum curator Ann Stewart. “She never put herself into a niche.”
In an adjacent gallery we see the joyous, abstract paintings by Gus, often inspired by the gardens just outside the door. Married for 72 years, Gus was always by Judith’s side. They both died in 2018, just five hours apart. And now people from all over the world come to spend time in this secret garden and visit its exquisite, jewel-filled temple.
Address 446 Old Stone Highway, East Hampton, NY 11937, +1 (631) 329-3288, www.leibermuseum.org, info@leibercollection.org | Getting there NY 27 past Amagansett, Old Stone Highway | Hours Wed, Sat & Sun 1 – 4pm, or by appointment | Tip Visit the secluded Barnes Hole Beach, a local secret – parking permit required (Barnes Hole Road, Amagansett).
Mashomack Preserve
The jewel of the Peconic
You really feel like you’re getting away from it all when visiting this remote nature preserve right in the middle of Shelter Island. It’s one of the richest natural habitats in the Northeast. With 11 miles of coastline and more than 2,000 acres of land, it covers roughly one-third of the entire island. Take a hike through the twisting trails, and you’ll see magical tidal creeks, dramatic stands of trees, and remote stretches of beach. Those daily worries you arrived with quickly disappear.
And to think all of this could have been turned into a ritzy housing development – twice. The first attempt was sidelined by the 1929 stock market crash. Then in 1980, The Nature Conservancy stepped in to purchase the land, thwarting plans for a golf course, marina, and waterfront homes. They paid some $10 million to obtain this pristine plot of land in one of their biggest campaigns at the time.
The wildlife here is stellar. Keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles soaring above your head. The birds have been returning to the park for years, with some successful breeding pairs. You might spot a river otter splashing about at the water’s edge, or see an eastern red fox slinking away into the bushes. Box turtles and snakes are common, as are opossums, raccoons, and deer. And right in the middle of the preserve, you’ll spot the 1890 manor house from when this land was in private hands. A hikers’ bathroom has been added into this historic structure.
Try to see the big stand of mature American beech trees that seem to defy gravity. And the tulip trees look dramatic with their long branches extending out sideways. Native Americans would use these straight limbs to build dugout canoes (see ch. 65). Then finally, find your way to one of the private beaches, where the gentle waters are calm, the expanse of sky is immense, and you can savor this pristine slice of island life.
Address 79 South Ferry Road, Shelter Island, NY 11964, +1 (631) 749-1001, www.nature.org/Mashomack | Getting there Sag Harbor South Ferry to Shelter Island, 114 North to the preserve | Hours See website for seasonal hours | Tip Sample the fish or bouillabaisse at Vine Street Café, a beloved local eatery (41 South Ferry Road, Shelter Island, www.vinestreetcafe.com).
Round Swamp Farm
Obsessing over this country market
If food fanatics in the Hamptons are fixated on Round Swamp Farm, there’s good reason. The East Hampton farm stand and market is filled with so many addictive delights, customers wake up dreaming about what they will buy next. Squeeze into the gravel parking lot, and you may have to elbow your way in – but no one seems to mind. Everything is that good.
Step inside the cottage-like store, and a visual tsunami of food awaits. Piles of peppers, potatoes, and pears. Baskets of corn, carrots, and cherries; mushrooms, melons, and mint; lettuce and leeks –everywhere there’s an exquisite still life with produce that is perfectly placed. But the real obsession is with their stellar baked and prepared foods, all made fresh in the back. Top of the list: the layered Mexican Dip. More often than not, this is the item customers are craving. The chicken salad is iconic, along with mouth-watering barbecue ribs, pulled pork, grilled shrimp tacos, and Thai chicken meatballs. Everything was made just hours before and is ready to take out to the beach.
Of course none of this is by accident. Carolyn Snyder is the matriarch behind this 50-some-year-old family business, which started as a simple tomato stand. “We work very hard,” Snyder states. “Today I was up at 4am icing more than 100 cakes.” Her sister Claire is often behind the cash register, and Carolyn’s two daughters dream up and prepare these addictive treats, all based on the foods they themselves like to eat. To be sure, the family farm is the backbone for these delights, offering up the freshest ingredients.
Save room for Lisa’s scrumptious baked goods. The triple berry pie is famous. And the muffins are sometimes still warm from the oven. Finally, don’t forget Claire’s Banana Nut Chocolate Chip Bread. Tied up with a purple bow, it’s a Hamptons must-have. (See Bridgehampton and Montauk locations too.)
Address 184 Three Mile Harbor Road, East Hampton, NY 11937, +1 (631) 324-4438, www.roundswampfarm.com | Getting there NY 27 to East Hampton Main Street, North Main Street, to Three Mile Harbor Road | Hours See website for seasonal hours | Tip If the Hamptons scenery has inspired you to paint a masterpiece, Golden Eagle offers classes and a vast array of art supplies (144 North Main Street, East Hampton, www.goldeneagleart.com).
Southampton African American Museum
Step inside the barbershop
With its bright red trim and broad windows, this historic corner barber shop has been meticulously restored and turned into the Southampton African American Museum with a single mission in mind: to tell the stories of African Americans in the Hamptons.
Step inside, and you’ll see the original style of barber chair, with its worn leather seat and chrome trim. First opened in the late 1940’s, the former barber shop and hair cutting salon became known as Randy’s Barbershop and was a beloved gathering spot for the Black community. This was during the Great Migration of the mid 20th century, when African Americans were leaving the South to come work on farms in the North, including the eastern end of Long Island. Through artifacts like hot combs, shaving brushes, and cutting shears, we understand how barbering has a long history in the Black community and why spaces like these were important for sharing cultural and social ideas.
At the center of the museum is a hand-painted digital wall tapestry, which uses a cell phone app to make stories from the past come alive. Interviews and actors’ voices recount the tale of Southampton’s Pyrrhus Concer, who was born into slavery in the mid-1800s but went on to become a free man. He lived a big life as a successful steerer on a whaling ship, later becoming a landowner and philanthropist.
But it’s not just the people who are remembered here – it’s also the places. Through artwork and audio accounts, we are immersed into the lively restaurant and juke joint “Fives.” After a long day of picking potatoes or scrubbing floors, local African Americans would dress up and listen to live music here, dancing late into the night. These are the pivotal stories that have long been forgotten – now kept alive inside this tiny barbershop museum.
Address 245 North Sea Road, Southampton, NY 11968, +1 (631) 353-3299, www.saamuseum.org, info@saamuseum.org | Getting there NY 27 to Southampton, south on North Sea Road | Hours See website | Tip With its third-generation neighborhood charm, Catena’s Market is known for its killer fried chicken and old school takeout lunches – a timeless Southampton haunt with worn wooden floors and the freshest meats in town (143 Main Street, Southampton, https://catenasmarket.com).
Watermill Center
Tour the Zen bedroom of a creative genius
Theater and visual artist Robert Wilson, best known for his 1976 opera Einstein on the Beach, is revered in Europe. But he’s not quite as well known in America. But when you take a tour of his treehouse-like summer apartment inside the Watermill Center, you’ll begin to understand his artistic mind. A simple, low bed appears to float amidst hundreds and hundreds of objects, all collected by Wilson and arranged into a personal tableau. There are limestone buddhas and Indonesian totems: masks, metal breastplates, drums, spears, costume sketches, and textiles. These fascinating objects are juxtaposed inside this sun-filled retreat, all touchstones for the creative process.
Of course, creativity is the very idea behind the Watermill Center, a laboratory for the arts that Wilson created in 1992. Set into a wooded garden of exceptional beauty, artists from around the world are chosen to do a residency here. Be it theater, dance, music, or visual arts, they live and commune at the center, developing works which challenge the norm.
Wilson’s artifacts are everywhere, allowing artists to see the visual history of mankind. He has a particular passion for chairs, and you’ll see all shapes and styles sprinkled throughout the center. A child’s Bauhaus chair sits alongside a Philippe Starck stool. A metal-clad Donald Judd chair is right near a long Windsor bench. Dotted inside the main gallery, the chairs look like personages waiting for a performance.
Don’t miss Wilson’s cabinet of curiosities inside the archive room. Thousands of objects line the long shelves: ceramic vessels and glass vases, photos, furniture, and figurines, from the Stone Age to the present. Wilson has set the pieces into witty vignettes, the way only a theater visionary can. Collected over a lifetime, it’s the everyday and the extraordinary inside this private refuge of creativity.
Address 39 Water Mill Towd Road, Water Mill, NY 11976, +1 (631) 726-4628, www.watermillcenter.org | Getting there NY 27 past Southampton to Head of Pond Road, Watermill Towd Road | Hours By reservation only | Tip For outstanding apples and delicious pies, stop by the Milk Pail, a beloved East End farm stand established in 1969 (1346 Montauk Highway, Water Mill, www.milk-pail.com).
Westhampton Beach
A downtown destination
There used to be a saying that the Shinnecock Canal was “the true starting point for the Hamptons.” Anything west of that was on the periphery. How that’s changed now! Enter the seaside village of Westhampton Beach, a chic Hamptons hamlet with heaps of local charm. Things started to change in 2019, when village elders got bold. They tore up the dated Main Street and started from scratch. Modern traffic circles were added along with LED streetlights, and new curbs and sidewalks – a totally spruced up village for the 21st century. At the center of it all is the Westhampton Beach Performing Arts Center, where big musical names perform in an intimate space. Locals helped turn this once failing movie theater into the ultimate performance venue. Enjoy dinner and a concert here – all right on Main Street.
Next came the shops. While other Hamptons downtowns are increasingly populated with international luxury brands, this village has a love for the local. The ever-sunny Hampton + Dunes is a store with an emphasis on organic shapes and textures. The cream and buff palette is soothing, with home accessories possessing that seakissed sophistication. Over at Good Westhampton, browsing is an art form among its chic and delightfully curated gifts. From lifestyle to home, kids to pets, the aim is to make you smile and stay for a while. Meanwhile, all around, a host of intimate, local restaurants add to that neighborly vibe.
Try to time your visit for Saturday mornings during the summer, when the nearby farmer’s market is in full swing. Set up in a leafy park off Main Street, it’s a joyous gathering, where vendors sell outstanding local produce, flowers, breads, and fish. Then, to add to the ambiance, shoppers are often serenaded by live musicians, who perform inside a vintage white gazebo. It doesn’t get any more picture-perfect small town than this.
Address Westhampton Beach, NY 11978, www.westhamptonbeach.org | Getting there NY 27 to Westhampton Beach, Main Street | Hours Vary by location | Tip During regular business hours, pop into the post office for a glimpse of a ca. 1942 hand-painted mural by Sol Wilson, Outdoor Sports, a charming depiction of local sporting pastimes (170 Main Street, Westhampton Beach).
Wendy Lubovich is an art and lifestyle writer living in New York City and Southampton. She is the author of 111 Museums in New York That You Must Not Miss. With a Fine and Decorative Arts degree from Christie’s Education in London, she is a private museum guide in New York City. A former TV news anchor, she is also a life-long artist and spends time painting in her East End studio.
Jean Hodgens is a native and lifelong resident of Springs, East Hampton, where she is a professional photographer. When she’s not shooting weddings on breathtaking beaches, she photographs the largely unseen beauty of the Hamptons through the eyes of a local. She rides horses and sails, and she feels lucky to live in a place where most people only dream of vacationing. She holds a BFA from SUNY Purchase.
The information in this book was accurate at the time of publication, but it can change at any time. Please confirm the details for the places you’re planning to visit before you head out on your adventures.